Secondary brake levers .... a surprising disclaimer

[ColinJ]

True, but I was thinking more of some rides I've done recently when descending long 25% stretches on narrow lanes. There have been moments when my fingers have been going white and I'm still doing 10mph. I've never had to find out how much more braking power I had left to call on, but you start to make judgments about which hedge looks more comfortable in the event of meeting oncoming traffic!

I had that experience with the crappy Render R front brake on my CAAD X even though it had a conventional lever. I had the lever pulled to the bar but I was still descending faster than I wanted to. I put a different brake on after that fright!

 

[raleighnut]

I use em as the only brake levers on my 653 framed bike with the cable nipple in the adjuster.

 

[Donger]

What is the make/model of the secondary brake levers the LBS fitted for you? I cannot see how operating the primary brake levers would not exert the required stopping force, even with these secondaries in-line. So how can the bicycle suddenly be deemed unsafe? I can see that, in testing, use of the secondaries might not meet the grade. But secondaries are just that, for general riding: you need to be on primary when braking is likely required (eg downhill, approaching an obstruction or possible obstruction at speed).

I couldn't say what make they are, but they have a zig-zaggy "S" logo on them. I have always relied on secondary levers when descending, because of a condition known as "neck spurs" that makes it very uncomfortable to lift your head for long periods while your hands are down on the drops. Descending with straight arms and a more comfortable upright position improves my riding range by at least 40 miles and eliminates neck pain the following day. My solution to poor braking efficiency has always been to brake earlier and longer, and to generally descend slower than the people I am riding with. It makes me look like a nervous descender, but in my case it is just pragmatism. I have always chewed through brake pads faster than anyone I know.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Long 25% stretches down narrow lanes are not for you then. Or frankly for me; you never know what's coming round the corner/bend or what the road condition is going to be like round the next (narrow) bend.

 

[bigjim]

Suicide levers worked fine as long as you kept the brakes properly adjusted. I used them for many years [avatar pic] and they were plenty powerful. Although these and the modern version are only intended for use in heavy traffic and slowish riding. They are not designed for downhill braking. Plus, IMO, the way they are placed on the inner part of the bar they take away some of the benefits of handling/steering the bike.
I have the modern cross levers on one of my touring bikes that assist longdrop caliper brakes that are not that good. They are however more powerful than the STI brake levers fitted. Modern STIs though, on a normal drop caliper or discs should be plenty powerful and they are designed to brake powerfully from the hoods. They should not need to be operated from the drops to achieve full force. I think there is something wrong if you need the additional levers on a disc equipped bike.

 

[Ajax Bay]

They should not need to be operated from the drops to achieve full force.

Agreed, but getting down on the drops downhill means your centre of gravity is lowered, you are all round 'stronger' on the bars, and your fingers are operating the lever further down so you've got more leverage, if needed, and it's less tiring on the arms/hands (think Hardknott and Wrynose Passes). My perception is that the thing that gives first in an accident (where the bike stays upright to start with) is your grip on the bars.

 

[Donger]

.... I think there is something wrong if you need the additional levers on a disc equipped bike.

You may have missed my reasons above, Jim. (Neck spurs/comfortable riding position). And, @User13710 , I did have a bike with exactly the same running gear as my first Panorama, but fitted with flat bars. Try as I might, I could never get within 2mph of my top speed on the Panorama ..... which is only just fast enough to keep up on club rides. This bike is the best compromise I could find that would serve as a club ride, audax and general touring bike.
Thanks for all the replies though, guys.

 

[andrew_s]

Specialized Top Mount levers.

I wouldn't get them, on account of no adjusters. Unless there are adjusters elsewhere in the cable run, that would make brake setup more difficult than it should be, but if they are set up properly, so there's minimal brake lever movement before the caliper arm moves, there's no reason why they shouldn't brake well.

It's good practice to bed disc pads in with a few hard stops on each brake before using them for regular riding. You can try out the top levers at the same time and see how they feel. As @Ajax Bay said, the drop bar braking won't be affected, unless there are poorly cut outer cable ends at the levers.

Your problems with the old bike seem normal for cantilever brakes, which have always been fussy about setup, and with the required cable setup changing with pad wear.

 

[Lonestar]

I've no experience of the modern secondary brake levers, but I well remember the old suicide levers, they were aptly named.

Yup,they were awful.

 

[summerdays]

View attachment 383624

Yup,they were awful.

That's the bike my husband had when I met him

 

[oldwheels]

I well remember the so called suicide levers. I have had them on all my drop bar touring bikes and found no problem with sensible use. For touring they gave reasonable slowing down easily. For steep hills I simply moved my hands down when I knew more stopping power would be needed. Somehow in my nearly 70 years touring I never found myself in an emergency situation.

 

[bigjim]

Yup,they were awful.

Not really. never had a problem with them.

You may have missed my reasons above, Jim.

Don't think so. I was making the point that you should have no problem braking from the hoods in an upright position with the newer levers as they are designed for such. You don't need to brake from the drops these days. The old Weinnmann non aero brakes were designed to be operated more efficiently from the drops. Not so with modern brakes. I struggle with the dropped position on a few of my bikes so I don't usually bother and I descend at 40mph+ on many a club ride. One such descent ends at a set of lights and I have no braking problem plus I'm a big heavy guy. I personally don't see that much advantage in descending on the drops as I've enough weight on me to push me at more speed than I want to travel at. I can still tuck in without hitting the drops.
One thing occured to me. How is your grip?

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I had secondary levers on my racing bike I got in the 80's. No problem stopping in the places you would be using them.

 

[Donger]

.... One thing occured to me. How is your grip?

About what you'd expect for an ex shot putter and second row forward! I squeeze the bejeezus out of the levers on my regular bike to get the desired braking .... and the fact that I chew through pads so fast would suggest that the force is getting through. I am (ahem) 20 stone, though!

It (the reason for secondary levers) really is all about the neck with me. I guess if you've never experienced that, it might be difficult to convey. I used to find that if I ever went over 20-25 miles, I was in agony when I got home and tried to lift the garage door. Now I can happily do 60-70 miles with no neck pain.

 

[Banjo]

Great looking bike @Donger.

I am sure you will be fine with the brakes but you would think that if the LBS is going to fit something that doesn't meet standards they would inform you and let you decide beforehand not just fit them and rely on silly plastic tags as disclaimers.