Seized Pedal.

[mmmmartin]

Use a camping stove and heat it until it turns red. Let it cool. Repeat. After the second time, apply a decent pedal spanner. Remember it unscrews towards the rear of the bike, if you see what I mean, but you probably know that although it's easy to forget. You might need a hammer to tap the pedal spanner to add a bit of sudden force.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Use a camping stove and heat it until it turns red [twice]

heat what? The pedal?
(and your post suggests you haven't read the first page of suggestions (decent spanner, direction of unscrewing) - and 'whack' with hammer: not "tap" btw, with solid support under BB shell).

 

[rrarider]

Use a camping stove and heat it until it turns red. Let it cool. Repeat. After the second time, apply a decent pedal spanner. Remember it unscrews towards the rear of the bike, if you see what I mean, but you probably know that although it's easy to forget. You might need a hammer to tap the pedal spanner to add a bit of sudden force.

That's a good idea - that way you'll get a nice smoke effect colour scheme on your bike produced by all the grease that ran out of the pedal and caught fire. Make sure you have a cigarette lighter available, just in case the fire goes out too soon.

 

[MichaelW2]

Leave penetrating oil to work for a few days.
Hold the bike upright on its wheels.
Point the crank up and forward at about 10:00
Put a well fitting spanner on the spindle so the handle points up and rewards at about 2:00. Use the longest spanner you can get. Extend the spanner with a steel tube.
Put the brakes on.
Stand on the end of the spanner/extender tube.
Gradually apply your weight being careful not to slip.
Gradually apply more force.

This method will ensure that you rotate the correct way because the threads are reversed on the non drive side.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Stand on the end of the spanner/extender tube.
Gradually apply your weight being careful not to slip.

Add to list above: "Have arrangements for a lift to A&E in place."

 

[MichaelW2]

Add to list above: "Have arrangements for a lift to A&E in place."

If you jump on the wrench maybe. That is why I stress gradual application of force.
The runoff for when bad stuff happens is away from the sharp chainring and onto the chain stays which are fairly harmless.
Stout boots can also protect your feet.

 

[figbat]

Also worth putting the chain on the big ring at the front, if you have one, to minimise potential bite injuries.

 

[nmfeb70]

Finally removed at last! Sit on bike with 15mm spanner attached to pedal with crank in the 4'o' clock position, a pair of workboots (thanks @MichaelW2) carrying 11st of weight, apply downward pressure on spanner. No need for banging or torching. Many thanks everyone!

 

[Sharky]

Finally removed at last! Sit on bike with 15mm spanner attached to pedal with crank in the 4'o' clock position, a pair of workboots (thanks @MichaelW2) carrying 11st of weight, apply downward pressure on spanner. No need for banging or torching. Many thanks everyone!

Well done. Always best to put your foot down.

 

[overmind]

Finally removed at last! Sit on bike with 15mm spanner attached to pedal with crank in the 4'o' clock position, a pair of workboots (thanks @MichaelW2) carrying 11st of weight, apply downward pressure on spanner. No need for banging or torching. Many thanks everyone!

Glad you got the pedal off. Interesting, the affect of gradually increasing the weight on the spanner (via your work boots). This is effectively the same as applying leverage using a cheater bar.

That is what I love about cheater bars. That 2-feet or so of leverage allows you to gradually crank up the torque on the thing you are trying to unscrew (up to the minimum necessary). I have noticed it most when I am trying to remove old freehubs from a back wheel.

There is that moment when you feel the screw give way and loosen up; you can feel it through the cheater bar. At that point you can immediately back-off on the pressure you are applying to avoid doing any unnecessary damage . I often find I can dispense the the cheater-bar from that point and just continue with the spanner (that the cheater bar was extending).

That is the problem I have with using a hammer to try and remove things. It is difficult to judge the right amount of force you need to apply. If you don't apply enough then it is obviously pointless; if you apply too much you might do damage to something (like breaking the end of a spanner or snapping a crank.

Once again, congratulations on removing the pedal successfully. :-)

 

[nmfeb70]

Glad you got the pedal off. Interesting, the affect of gradually increasing the weight on the spanner (via your work boots). This is effectively the same as applying leverage using a cheater bar.

That is what I love about cheater bars. That 2-feet or so of leverage allows you to gradually crank up the torque on the thing you are trying to unscrew (up to the minimum necessary). I have noticed it most when I am trying to remove old freehubs from a back wheel.

There is that moment when you feel the screw give way and loosen up; you can feel it through the cheater bar. At that point you can immediately back-off on the pressure you are applying to avoid doing any unnecessary damage . I often find I can dispense the the cheater-bar from that point and just continue with the spanner (that the cheater bar was extending).

That is the problem I have with using a hammer to try and remove things. It is difficult to judge the right amount of force you need to apply. If you don't apply enough then it is obviously pointless; if you apply too much you might do damage to something (like breaking the end of a spanner or snapping a crank.

Once again, congratulations on removing the pedal successfully. :-)

I took onboard everyone's reply to this thread but decided to go for the least dangerous method first! I think a combination of subtlety, a decent 15mm spanner and my size 9 workboots with thick soles did the trick. I tried a length of short scaffolding pole to persuade the spanner but it was too awkward for one person. Having recently removed a stubborn old freewheel with a Draper 12" adjustable spanner, I can relate to that moment when "the screw gives way and starts to loosen up" - there's no feeling like it! Thanks for your kind post.

 

[Paulus]

I took onboard everyone's reply to this thread but decided to go for the least dangerous method first! I think a combination of subtlety, a decent 15mm spanner and my size 9 workboots with thick soles did the trick. I tried a length of short scaffolding pole to persuade the spanner but it was too awkward for one person. Having recently removed a stubborn old freewheel with a Draper 12" adjustable spanner, I can relate to that moment when "the screw gives way and starts to loosen up" - there's no feeling like it! Thanks for your kind post.

Don't forget to clean the threads and add a little grease when putting the pedals back on.