Seized pedals


Über Member
I’ve had some success using a 1/2 inch socket (with an Allen key bit) with a breaker bar. Yellow Saddle is right none of these propriety anti seize products do a lot of good, you just need lots of leverage. I also use a bit of copper grease when I fit new pedals, there is no need to over tighten them.
I also use a bit of copper grease when I fit new pedals, there is no need to over tighten them.
^^These are the key points. A bit of copper grease initially, and don’t over tighten them.
I used to have a bodged up contraption which was essentially a spanner welded to a long crowbar. It never let me down, until the weld failed, but that’s because I was jumping up and down on it to release a thread once.
If you are trying to shift a pedal without the flats for a pedal spanner (and I was the other day) you might have to do as I did and secure the cranks in a Workmate (wooden jaws, so no damage) and undo it with a hexagon socket in a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. This required additional force in the form of a tube to get extra leverage on the socket wrench, and assistance from Mrs A in holding the Workmate steady. And I always grease the threads and don't do them up very tight. Some sort of chemical bond seems to take place. Trying copper grease on the new pedals. Just remembered, I practised with a spare crank and pedal to make sure I was going the right way. You can confuse yourself working on the "back" of a pedal thread.


If you haven't seen or used a pedal spanner, you will find that the jaws of the spanner are much slimmer than an ordinary open spanner. This is because a lot of traditional pedals had very little clearance between the pedal and crank.

And a pedal spanner is usually quite heavy and long compared to normal spanners, just right for giving it a bit of clout.

Should be one in every tool box.
Thanks everyone for such a great response.
Still no luck after trying everything, I’m going to give the bike shop a call tomorrow and see if they can use the ‘’magic skills” mentioned.
Otherwise I have a very expensive pair of brand new pedals still in the box.


Eh up
I had some of the Shimano pedals with just the Allen key fitting, they had been on a long time, road then turbo for a couple of years, one pedal came off but the Allen key hole in the other became damaged after trying brute force on the bike, I took the crank off stipped the pedal, put the crank in the vice and used Stilsons with a scaffold tube over, it removed it with a bit of force, the pedal was ruined but the crank is still in use on my sons bike.


Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Bike shop "special skills" are simply brute force, plus experience with angles. It usually works when all else fails.

By the way, shout out to the Halfords Bikehut pedal spanner, it's no bad at all for 8 quid. Removes most stubborn pedals and has a tight fit... Up yours, Mister Park.

Ajax Bay

East Devon
Secure the bike, point the crank to the rear, fit the jaws of the pedal spanner to the pedal axle flats (bit of tape to make sure it stays there), spanner also facing to the rear, and hit the end of the spanner hard with a heavy mallet (or equivalent eg length of wood). If no joy, support the bottom bracket with a block of wood and repeat. The shock frees the pedal (thread).
Resolve hereafter to remove, grease (or copper slip) and refit pedals of any bike new to you, immediately after purchase and do so annually.
Last edited:
Top Bottom