Your 130mm hubbed wheel would fall out of the 135mm dropouts, given the chance.
How can the central part of the axle be in tension yet sufficient friction be exerted to stop that? Friction from the outside of each dropout (by the axle nuts) is not enough to secure the wheel. Friction from the inside (the cone lock nut) is needed for security.
Think about that, while you try to get to sleep tonight, 'as a thought experiment'.
Assuming I have the terminology correct - the right hand dropout is nipped up between the right hand locknut and the right hand axle nut in the same way that the left hand side is. There is plenty of friction without any tension in the central portion of the axle. Remove the hub, rim, spokes etc in your thought experiment and just leave the axle behind now saw through the centre of the axle and the dropouts will spring back to 135mm spacing - showing that the axle was under (a tiny bit of) tension. If you had a QR and could somehow just saw through the hollow axle this wouldn't happen as the axle is under compression from the QR.

. With the nuts as described when I tried to hacksaw through, the axle just fell out of the dropouts in the first few cut strokes. Perhaps I should have turned the frame upside down. When I tightened up the axle nuts so the axle was held securely in the dropouts (which is, remember what the axle nuts are for), I got half way through (really hard going) and then the compression in the axle nipped the blade and could cut no more. I eased off the axle nuts and, with the compression gone, I got the blade out.