Shifting Problem (Part 4)

[Tenacious Sloth]

With a problem like this you need to narrow it down and eliminate possible problem areas.

If you carry out the steps I listed at post #3 then you’ll know whether the problem lies upstream of the cable connection to the derailleur, or downstream.

Which is it?

 

[nmfeb70]

With a problem like this you need to narrow it down and eliminate possible problem areas.

If you carry out the steps I listed at post #3 then you’ll know whether the problem lies upstream of the cable connection to the derailleur, or downstream.

Which is it?

I'm away from home for a day or two but will return to the problem on Monday. I am hoping it's something as simple as a sticking shifter. I have tried to eliminate any other possible cause.

 

[nmfeb70]

That's a long outer run with lots of friction, outer cables are usually just handlebar to downtube, then bare cable until the short outer at the rear mech.

Maybe that's the case for road bikes but MTB's?

 

[I like Skol]

My MTB and my gravel bike both run full length outers for the rear mech. It's not unusual.

 

[neil_merseyside]

My MTB and my gravel bike both run full length outers for the rear mech. It's not unusual.

And all that friction doesn't cause slow shifts? Fair play it works.

 

[I like Skol]

And all that friction doesn't cause slow shifts? Fair play it works.

Far from it. The shifts are quick, predictable and long-term reliable. I think the full length outer is a far better solution as it removes nearly all the entry points for dirt and contamination to get in. It won't enter at the shifter and the only other opening is at the mech which is the lowest point so tends to drain out anyway.
The only downside is maybe the extra weight, but personally I would much rather have 100% reliable shifting than save a few grammes.

 

[nmfeb70]

Ok guys, with gear cable wrapped around my hand, the shifter is fine and there is no excessive play in the jockey wheels.

Using the derailleur hanger gauge, the measurements with the wheel pointing at 6 & 12 'o' clock are equal, but at 9 & 3 'o' clock there was a 10mm difference. Hope this makes sense. Will this affect the shifting?

PS. Anyone know how to remove a rounded hex bolt?

 

[Big John]

Re: the rounded hex bolt. I bought this from Screwfix and worked a treat. It's not a 2 minute job but it gets a result and doesn't cost a lot. I've since used these drills a few times so in my case it was money well spent.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v

 

[nmfeb70]

Re: the rounded hex bolt. I bought this from Screwfix and worked a treat. It's not a 2 minute job but it gets a result and doesn't cost a lot. I've since used these drills a few times so in my case it was money well spent.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v

Thanks John.

 

[scragend]

PS. Anyone know how to remove a rounded hex bolt?

Or if you have a Dremel-type tool, grind a slot in the head of the hex bolt and use a wide flat-bladed screwdriver to unscrew.

(I've never had any luck with the extractor things!)