Shifting problems. New derailleur?

[Salty seadog]

Mechs rarely fail. Take if off, GT85 it, then check how easily the cable pulls through by hand from the shifter. If the mech is straight and not bent, and the spring is intact, it's the cable. Not all cables are equal.

What do you mean here, in bold? With the mech off/on, cable in the pinch bolt or not and which end am I pulling from and what am I looking for?

 

[Milkfloat]

My immediate thought is hanger alignment, but you say you have checked it numerous times. Next up cable routing, but that is probably unlikely.

 

[Salty seadog]

My immediate thought is hanger alignment, but you say you have checked it numerous times. Next up cable routing, but that is probably unlikely.

I will take it fully off and deep clean it and check hanger again. Asking with some of the other ideas above.

 

[Venod]

What do you mean here, in bold? With the mech off/on, cable in the pinch bolt or not and which end am I pulling from and what am I looking for?

You can leave the mech on, disconnect the cable from the derailleur, holding the the inner cable you have just disconnected in one hand, pull on it gently and go through the complete gear range up and down with the lever, when changing to a lower gear the cable should pull your hand holding it smoothly, when changing to a higher gear, you should be able to pull the cable with no resistance.

 

[si_c]

I'm not sure on this one, my first thought would have been to change the inner/outer cables, but you said that it was like this prior to changing both recently - so that would indicate doing something else.

What would be ideal would be to post a picture here square on from the rear with the bike in the big ring front, and say third gear from the left at the back. This would allow us to see better what the derailleur is doing, if you can get the hanger in too, that would be a bonus.

As has already been said above, the mech will either work or it won't - the most common cause is damage - but if you don't keep it cleaned properly then it can start to cause minor issues so it would probably be worth taking the mech off completely, and giving it a proper deep clean - degrease and re-lube all the pivots making sure you've got all the muck out, then same with the springs. Take off both jockey wheels, disassemble them completely and clean them up - I take the bushings out and then pack them with lithium grease - they don't move as freely at first, but I find it helps keep the crap out a bit. Also check that the cage is not bent.

Then put it back up in the workstand and reconnect everything up - take the opportunity to re-index the gears from scratch.

 

[raleighnut]

I'm not sure on this one, my first thought would have been to change the inner/outer cables, but you said that it was like this prior to changing both recently - so that would indicate doing something else.

What would be ideal would be to post a picture here square on from the rear with the bike in the big ring front, and say third gear from the left at the back. This would allow us to see better what the derailleur is doing, if you can get the hanger in too, that would be a bonus.

As has already been said above, the mech will either work or it won't - the most common cause is damage - but if you don't keep it cleaned properly then it can start to cause minor issues so it would probably be worth taking the mech off completely, and giving it a proper deep clean - degrease and re-lube all the pivots making sure you've got all the muck out, then same with the springs. Take off both jockey wheels, disassemble them completely and clean them up - I take the bushings out and then pack them with lithium grease - they don't move as freely at first, but I find it helps keep the crap out a bit. Also check that the cage is not bent.

Then put it back up in the workstand and reconnect everything up - take the opportunity to re-index the gears from scratch.

Just make sure the 'Top' jockey wheel goes back in the right place. DAMHIKT

 

[Salty seadog]

I'm not sure on this one, my first thought would have been to change the inner/outer cables, but you said that it was like this prior to changing both recently - so that would indicate doing something else.

What would be ideal would be to post a picture here square on from the rear with the bike in the big ring front, and say third gear from the left at the back. This would allow us to see better what the derailleur is doing, if you can get the hanger in too, that would be a bonus.

As has already been said above, the mech will either work or it won't - the most common cause is damage - but if you don't keep it cleaned properly then it can start to cause minor issues so it would probably be worth taking the mech off completely, and giving it a proper deep clean - degrease and re-lube all the pivots making sure you've got all the muck out, then same with the springs. Take off both jockey wheels, disassemble them completely and clean them up - I take the bushings out and then pack them with lithium grease - they don't move as freely at first, but I find it helps keep the crap out a bit. Also check that the cage is not bent.

Then put it back up in the workstand and reconnect everything up - take the opportunity to re-index the gears from scratch.

Right a few pics, all in the big ring.

Mech is kept very clean but will give it a dip clean.

 

[Venod]

Its hard to tell from the pics, but it looks as if your derailleur hanger is toeing out at the rear, have you checked it for squareness to the wheel ?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIzd0xdkowM

 

[Salty seadog]

Its hard to tell from the pics, but it looks as if your derailleur hanger is toeing out at the rear, have you checked it for squareness to the wheel ?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIzd0xdkowM

Whilst the derailleur is off for a deep clean and jockey wheel service I've also checked the hanger yet again, I did it yesterday too, I don't think I could get it any better. Park Tools hanger tool used and using the valve as a datum point.
I don't seem to have any noticeable drift on the top jockey wheel but I read one post earlier that sram tend not to put much/any in.
I've got some bacon and egg banjos to scoff then Ill stick everything back together.

 

[Salty seadog]

Whilst the derailleur is off for a deep clean and jockey wheel service I've also checked the hanger yet again, I did it yesterday too, I don't think I could get it any better. Park Tools hanger tool used and using the valve as a datum point.
I don't seem to have any noticeable drift on the top jockey wheel but I read one post earlier that sram tend not to put much/any in.
I've got some bacon and egg banjos to scoff then Ill stick everything back together.

Just to check you do mean the hanger not the cage?

 

[iluvmybike]

It also looks like the gear outer casing is overly long?

 

[Salty seadog]

It also looks like the gear outer casing is overly long?

I think it's fine, It comes out of the chainstay about 2/3 along from the BB and then has to loop 180* to the back of the mech.

 

[si_c]

Looking at the first picture, I think that the derailleur has moved a little too far inwards for the final sprocket as the chain looks like it deflects inwards, when it should really be deflecting the other way. It could just be the angle of the photo, but it may explain why the return shifting is poor. I'd wind the barrel adjuster in a bit so that when you are looking square on at the back with the largest sprocket engaged, the jockey wheel should sit either underneath or only ever so slightly left of the centreline of the sprocket. Conversely at the other end of the cluster the derailleur should sit slightly outside in the same way, and on the middle sprocket it should be directly beneath.

 

[Salty seadog]

Bolocks, gave the rear mech a service, proper degrease, wash and dry, GT85 all over, lubed the pivot points. Serviced the bearings in the jockey wheels.

All good, double check hanger, all good.

Put mech and chain back on, fed the cable through the barrel adjuster, frayed the bugger.

So having never done internal routed cables before I took it to the LBS. Few days wait, arse. So buy the inner and outer and the mechanic gave me a couple of straws. Tried to slip a straw over the cable to run it through the frame but just inside the guide is a smaller hole the straw won't fit. Ok maybe I'm in luck and it has permanent fixed straws. So took the bit of inner out from chainstay to BB.
Tried to thread it back through as practice. It'll go in one way but not come out the other and it won't even go in from the other.

I'm going to another lbs tomorrow for a red face bail out.

 

[DCBassman]

To be honest I don't see the point of through-frame cabling. What's the advantage? From what I've read over the past year or so, it's simply a pain. But then I'm Luddite enough to prefer fully enclosed cables..