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Mr Haematocrit
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During a crash the rear Di2 derailleur motor disengages to minimize damage. You can reset this to restore functionality.
Shimano Di* do and do not.
- Thread starter Mr Haematocrit
- Start date
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I have the same problem.
You've solved the problem?
Can anyone give me a help?
Thanks
G.Luca
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Mr Haematocrit
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Have you gone through the crash protection reset process?
What is the correct procedure?
I tried to hold down the button for many second but nothing has changed.
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Mr Haematocrit
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These systems have a protection circuit built into them so that when the derailleur gets forced in a fall no damage is done to the system. To reset the system hold the button down on the LED control box for five seconds until the red light flashes.
If that changes nothing unplug the shifters and mechs and plug them back in again. Its a connection issue
If that changes nothing unplug the shifters and mechs and plug them back in again. Its a connection issue
I've already done this test but nothing has changed.
I think the front derailleur is in protection mode but I can not unlock it.
I already tried to replace all cable and battery cage except the Junction box.
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Mr Haematocrit
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What happened prior to this issue? - was the bike in an accident, fall over, get soaked in the rain?
The bike was stopped for 2 months during the winter in the house.
This is a strange thing, all gears work properly.
6 months ago the same thing happened to me, I dismounted and remounted the front derailleur and simultaneously work the fd adjustment and operation mode.
The problem is the same Kulcha, so I hope it is a known issue in Shimano.
Thanks
G.Luca
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Mr Haematocrit
msg me on kik for android
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Did you disconnect the battery when storing it?
Ive heard of issues such as this, but never experienced or seen them.
Get it to a shop which has the diagnostics kit imho
Ive heard of issues such as this, but never experienced or seen them.
Get it to a shop which has the diagnostics kit imho
I tried to disconnect the battery for 48 hours but nothing has changed.
This morning I contacted Shimano and now i waiting for a response.
Unfortunately no store in my area has a diagnostic kit.
G.Luca
I solved the problem.
The rear derailleur don't work correctly. I change it and now it's all ok.
Peteaud
Veteran
- Location
- South Somerset
What is the recommendation for storing, keep battery in or remove it?
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Mr Haematocrit
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I store it with personally. I'm not aware of reccomendations or best practices but can't say I have any issues doing so.
noddynorris
New Member
Hi there,
I'm new to the forum, looking for some advice from Mr Haematocrit if possible or anybody else in the know. I have decked my TT bike out with 10 speed Dura Ace Di2 and have found that my from derailleur shifting has stopped working. I have the following symptoms:
Bar end shifters: Rear works fine, front does not shift, both give battery charge indication when held.
Brake mounted shifters: Rear works fine, front does not shift, both give battery charge indication when held.
Battery: Fully Charged.
Front Derailleur: Shifts only when in the extremes of the rear cassette to prevent chain rub.
Rear Derailleur: Works perfectly.
If anybody can help me with this, it would be really appreciated.
Mr Haematocrit, I am also looking to clean up my cable routing and get my hands on seat tube battery assembly if you could possibly help/ supply me with this.
Cheers
Matt
I'm new to the forum, looking for some advice from Mr Haematocrit if possible or anybody else in the know. I have decked my TT bike out with 10 speed Dura Ace Di2 and have found that my from derailleur shifting has stopped working. I have the following symptoms:
Bar end shifters: Rear works fine, front does not shift, both give battery charge indication when held.
Brake mounted shifters: Rear works fine, front does not shift, both give battery charge indication when held.
Battery: Fully Charged.
Front Derailleur: Shifts only when in the extremes of the rear cassette to prevent chain rub.
Rear Derailleur: Works perfectly.
If anybody can help me with this, it would be really appreciated.
Mr Haematocrit, I am also looking to clean up my cable routing and get my hands on seat tube battery assembly if you could possibly help/ supply me with this.
Cheers
Matt
Hi, here is my story. I have UI2 internally routed with the junction box inside the frame at the bottom bracket.
After a minor crash, the left shifter (front mech) was bent inwards. The front mech did not respond at all until the cable under the hood was reseated.
Now it won't shift from small chain ring to large, it just doesn't get there when on the larger cogs of the cassette, or it throws the chain right off the outside and onto the crank arm when on the smaller cogs of the cassette. Also, when on the big ring and shifting to the larger cogs at the back, instead of just trimming the front mech, it actually shifts from the large chainring to the small.
No amount of adjusting the H and L screws helps, cables removed and reseated, front mech removed and re-installed, makes any difference.
My best guess at present is that the front mech itself got damaged so I have ordered a replacement. Not very confident that it will fix it though?
After a minor crash, the left shifter (front mech) was bent inwards. The front mech did not respond at all until the cable under the hood was reseated.
Now it won't shift from small chain ring to large, it just doesn't get there when on the larger cogs of the cassette, or it throws the chain right off the outside and onto the crank arm when on the smaller cogs of the cassette. Also, when on the big ring and shifting to the larger cogs at the back, instead of just trimming the front mech, it actually shifts from the large chainring to the small.
No amount of adjusting the H and L screws helps, cables removed and reseated, front mech removed and re-installed, makes any difference.
My best guess at present is that the front mech itself got damaged so I have ordered a replacement. Not very confident that it will fix it though?
