Shimano Ultegra 6800 RD

[oldgreyandslow]

Probably a daft question.

I'm changing my 6800 RD from a short to a medium cage so I can run an 11-32 rear cassette. It llooks like there is some kind of additional part where the cable runs through the adjustment barrel, a "cover with tongue" according to the online manual, never seen this before. I am hoping to use my existing cable rather than fit a new one, I can see a potential problem if the end of the old cable is frayed from removal. Is this cover with tongue thing essential for the smooth operation or can I ditch it if the cable won't get through?

Or do I need a new RD cable as well?

 

[lpretro1]

That part will not make any difference to your cable length - it is a protector for the cable

 

[raleighnut]

Jeez, £2 for a new inner ain't gonna break the budget.

 

[lpretro1]

Jeez, £2 for a new inner ain't gonna break the budget.

You really need to use the new coated cables with the 11spd Shimano as they need to be very slick - a bog standard cable just won't work too well - thye are about 12 each - but worth every penny

 

[oldgreyandslow]

Yep saw that here: https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-ultegra-6800-road-polymer-coated-inner-gear-cable-EV220556

 

[Tojo]

You really need to use the new coated cables with the 11spd Shimano as they need to be very slick - a bog standard cable just won't work too well - thye are about 12 each - but worth every penny

There has been a few posts about these Shimano cables on here lately, Just use good quality stainless cables the Shimano cables have a problem with the coating coming off and jamming up inside the outer and shifters, I have changed about a dozen lately, two yesterday as it happens and they were the worst I've seen yet. Also no one has noticed any change in using normal stainless cables over the shimano's, I would definitely not waste my money on the shimano ones...

 

[raleighnut]

There has been a few posts about these Shimano cables on here lately, Just use good quality stainless cables the Shimano cables have a problem with the coating coming off and jamming up inside the outer and shifters, I have changed about a dozen lately, two yesterday as it happens and they were the worst I've seen yet.

@Yellow Saddle has said pretty much the same thing, I've never had a problem with Clarks cables but then I don't own anything with 11spd on it (My 'poshest' bike is 10spd Campagnolo 'Centaur/Record' equipped)

 

[Yellow Saddle]

@Yellow Saddle has said pretty much the same thing, I've never had a problem with Clarks cables but then I don't own anything with 11spd on it (My 'poshest' bike is 10spd Campagnolo 'Centaur/Record' equipped)

Whilst he (the Yellow One) has bemoaned rubbish premium cables like Gore, he has never complained about Shimano cables though. I believe he rather likes them. Then again, he left the industry just after the introduction of the new polymer-coated Shimano cables and can't vouch for their reliability in the long term.

I've had a set of those cables on my one bike now for about two years but with minimal mileage. I have not inspected them for fraying other than to notice the expected fraying at the cut cable ends, which is normal, according to Shimano. I'll have a good look at the external BB cable guide and perhaps even inside my levers for the fraying that @Tojo mentions. Tojo, could you please take and post a photo of fraying and jamming you've come across. I'd like to see how that pans out.

Below is a photo of a typical Gore coated cable failure. The stringy bit of plastic used to coat the cable but it quickly breaks off and jams the housing inner. This photo shows the supplied Gore inner sleeve just protruding on the right.

 

[Tojo]

I unfortunately didn't take any photos (sorry, kicking myself now) The ones I have done have been friends and club members which have done quite a lot of mileage.
They seem to be ok in the short term, but nearly 80% of the rear mech cables I have replaced have snapped close to the nipple in the shifter...Nightmare.
The coating seems to degrade and leave a powdery stringy deposit where the inner enters the outers and anywhere in-between where there is a bend in the outers and especially around the cam mechanism in the front shifter.

I'm pretty sure I will have more to replace in the not too distant future...I'll remember to take some photos and post them for you to see.....

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I unfortunately didn't take any photos (sorry, kicking myself now) The ones I have done have been friends and club members which have done quite a lot of mileage.
They seem to be ok in the short term, but nearly 80% of the rear mech cables I have replaced have snapped close to the nipple in the shifter...Nightmare.
The coating seems to degrade and leave a powdery stringy deposit where the inner enters the outers and anywhere in-between where there is a bend in the outers and especially around the cam mechanism in the front shifter.

I'm pretty sure I will have more to replace in the not too distant future...I'll remember to take some photos and post them for you to see.....

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure the cable breaking off at the nipple has anything to do with the coating. It is a pretty common place for the cable to break because of the way it bends there. The way the "coating" works doesn't contribute to breaking. Inside, the cable is exactly the same as the previous cable (which had a bit of PTFE on it) but with the new polymer coating instead of PTFE.
These new cables have a type of polymer string that is wound around the cable and makes it look rougher, rather than smoother, than before.

My experience is that where the cable is anchored, the polymer comes off in fine strings. This fraying happens below the anchor and doesn't affect anything upstream.

 

[Tojo]

I Know what you're saying about the bend in the cable in the shifter. What I'm beginning to think is the restriction caused by the coating building up in various parts of the outer cable length is putting undue tension when shifting that it contributes to the failures in the shifter, noticeably in the end caps and just yesterday an in-line adjuster on the front mech run was so badly clogged it had stopped the front dérailleur dropping down to the inner ring and had to be all cleaned out just to get the new cable to run through there was that much of the bloody stuff built up there........