Dogtrousers
Lefty tighty. Get it righty.
Wouldn't happen with a square taper. Much better protection from water. At least, so I have been told by someone.
Snapped spindle
- Thread starter roubaixtuesday
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Wouldn't happen with a square taper. Much better protection from water. At least, so I have been told by someone.
roubaixtuesday
self serving virtue signaller
Wouldn't happen with a square taper. Much better protection from water. At least, so I have been told by someone.
Whilst it causes me physical pain to type it, I do actually agree.
There, I've said it, I think square tapers are longer lived in such a service.
Ofcourse not - the distance between rollers has to stay under the maximum that the worn sprockets provide space for, if I would continue, the "low mountains" (see earlier post) would also be grinded off by the rollers, the sprockets circumference would become a circle, and the drivetrain would cease doing the job, forcing replacement need, that is work and cost, voiding the goal.
roubaixtuesday
self serving virtue signaller
Do you have one with the sails unfurled?
As already mentioned - during 30 years of cycling daily 25-60 km, never had a square taper axle/bearing fail.Wouldn't happen with a square taper. Much better protection from water. At least, so I have been told by someone.
I had 1 square taper crankset fail, brand "Stronglight", pedals broke out their mounting holes, first left one, replaced the crank with another brand ready at hand, later on right one also, due to too thin (I compared to other cranks) alu around them, which must have been the reason for the brands name giving.
Had 1 HollowTech 2 fail, which was replaced by another dealer using allen keys and hammer and chisel.
And its predecessor Octalink 1, water getting into the left cranks mount caused it to loose.
Hollow Technology of the Light Religion cheating to win a sec on a mile to keep up with the cheating rest.
The axle of my replacement frame is Stronglight JP-400
since Shimano ceased its UN-55 model. I didn't like but didn't know and wasn't given other options in time, so it was to do with it.
I had read user reports that some JP-400 models had plastic instead of previously alu cups, which worried me. But the employee of the dealer of my avatar bike assured me the models he had in stock were alu so I decided to give it a try.
The bike went back in use september 2024, so 17 months now. Time will Surely Tell Once Again if Stronglights axle is better than its cranks.
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No, I just stockpiled them like they were at purchase time.
It's also stretch fabric (20% elasthane) and I don't think you want a sail that stretches.
Nevertheless, if you are interested, I'll give you a Good Price Shipping Included.
EckyH
It wasn't me!
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- Nottuln, North Rhine-Westphalia
How about deepen the valleys between the mountains with a round file or a grinder? That could squeeze out more time until the valleys begin to overlap.
Edit: Perhaps that approach isn't for everyone, probably not for me as I recently bought a Hollowtech II crank. But it is a second hand purchase, so the evil component industry doesn't get a single cent of that purchase!
E.
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When the left pedal broke out its Stronglight crank, I didn't have a crank puller at that time, and shops were closed until monday.
So I decided to first use a hacksaw to undo the pressfit as much as reachable, then TWO hammers and TWO chisels (180 degrees against eachother to stay "straight") to get it off.
And Bingo, It Worked, later in the afternoon it was Here I Am, On The Road Again!
Nowadays, I FIRST check if I can find hammer and chisels, and THEN if bicycle shops are open. Then I spend the saved money on a whole box of tasty corn chips.
HAMMERS AND CHISELS FOR THE WIN!
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roubaixtuesday
self serving virtue signaller
BURN THE WITCH
You didn't Really follow the story eh Mister EckyH? The valleys aren't allowed to go deeper because then the chain link plates void the mounting bolts of the cog, which they already slightly do. Velosolo's lowest teeth number cog was 16T, they had a 15T but it used special countersunk bolt heads, and sunk boltheads can be a pain in the BEEP to get out, while with protruding heads, one always has the backup of a vice.
What I DID do, month ago, was taking the new Velosolo cog I keep with me on the bike as spare, and round off and down its teeth on a table grinder.
To test later, when any need to replace the rear cog pops up, how much flipping work it saves me from.
NNOOOOOOOOOOOO I wouldn't recommend that, remember Greenfell Tower, where the Foam Filled Hollow Technology Aluminium facade decorative panels to Achieve a Better Environmental Score, burnt down the entire tower.
Hollow Technology Cost Cutting Environmental Friendly Light Religion - it's all to take with a Sea container Salt. We don't Want to read such Story Starting with the Safety of our Fellow Forum Friend EckyH.
So I'd say to EckyH: just throw the HollowTech II crank in the trash bin, there it can do the least harm.
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EckyH
It wasn't me!
- Location
- Nottuln, North Rhine-Westphalia
I can assure you that I read every post in this thread with the duly attention for that specific post.
Excuses...
If the grinder can grind down the teeth on the sprocket then it can grind down bolt heads, too.
E.
EckyH
It wasn't me!
- Location
- Nottuln, North Rhine-Westphalia
Evidence showed you did not read, or, ignored what you read.
How do mounting bolts come into the picture when one is holding a cog against a table grinder? Those bolts lay nicely spread out in their original position on a piece of cotton next to the bike, as to make sure they go in the same holes on the hub, as to.make sure the flattened sections on the circumference of their heads stay pointed outwards.
Which was ALSO said here, so your reading assurance is not worth a British penny Mister EckyH!
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