So, this might have happened... NBD - 2016 Fuji Touring workhorse
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DCBassman
Guru
- Location
- The lumpy far South West
Does this mean the RR finally gets to retire?
Does this mean the RR finally gets to retire?
Not for the time being - the Raleigh remains at the office in Oxford while the Fuji will stay at the more rural homestead for grocery / general utility duties.
If (when!
) I get back to the city I'd probably rather not leave this one locked up outside the pub so there will still be a place for the Raleigh; providing I can store them all of course!
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
It needs some work but is generally solid and I can't complain for what I paid for it.
Very much looking forward to a weekend of sorting it out then getting stuck into some proper utility rides
Could do with something that would take wider tyres for my commute - needs to be faster than the rigid MTB and lighter, but still cope with some mud.
It's currently fitted with 32s but will apparently take 38s; which is the same as the CdF. I've had no issue on that bike and the Fuji will probably get an easier life from a terrain perspective. I guess it depends on how gnarly your commute is though!
If I get back to the city this will be my commuter; would love to use it for that now but 25 miles each way would kill me on top of a working day
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An update having had the chance to view the bike in the cold light of day after collecting it from a lovely, similarly cycling-obsessed Birmingham couple last night 
The bike as received. It's a "large / 56cm" frame, yet the published reach and stack values are a shade less than my "medium / 53cm" CdF. Yay for sizing conventions that are transparent and fit for purpose..
Book weight is about 12.9kg IIRC but my example comes in at a portly 16.6kg. In it's defence it does have quite a lot of additional stuff hanging off it; some of which will be going.
The frame is a propriatory butted Cro-Mo; with later models getting Reynolds 520. I imagine this one is somewhere between gaspipe and 520, or maybe comparable to 520.
Fuji started off as a proper Japanese brand, however are now apparently American-owned and sell bikes sourced in the east - with this one apparently being made in China.
The front of the bike sports a few additions; including an M-Part low-riding panier rack. It seems OK for what it is, however the fixings leave a bit to be desired and for now at least it'll be coming off since I have no bags for it, while it adds mass and fouls the QR skewers when the wheel's removed.
Can anyone tell me what the hoop is for at the front of the rack please? It's only held on with two bolts (about which it can rotate) and seems like a bit heath-robinson if intended to carry any mass at the end - as it is now.
I'll give the Cateye light a fair crack of the whip if I can find some suitable batteries, however my gut tells me it's probably not going to be overly bright and pretty heavy, so this will likely go in favour of something more modern. The little LED unit on the fork seems like a decent proposition; at least for being seen if not seeing where I'm going.
Finally at the front we have another intriguing rack bolted to the mini-V-brake mounts; I'm not sure whether this is intended for use with a specific bag or is just for general use with bungees.. thoughts on this would be welcome!
The bar tape has seen better days but I'm thinking is probably salvageable with a bit of a clean. The stem is apparently 110mm and I was considering swapping it for a shorter one (as is the norm) however the reach doesn't seem excessive so I'll see how I get on with it. Brake levers probably need re-aligning, while the brakes need a decent setup as lever-pull is excessive; especially on the back.
The brake levers are TRPs which seem pretty nice; these were downgraded to cheaper Tektro items on the 2017 model..
The bike is the first I've ridden / owned with (Microshift) bar-end shifters and while I might have preferred STIs I can appreciate the benefits they can bring and look forward to seeing how I get on with them..
The top tube has a protector fitted; which seems like a great idea given the bike's intended purpose, although I'm not so sold on the aesthetic..
The "enterprisingly fitted" spare tube is perished and will be going, as will the mudguards as they're a bit of a mess and don't appear to offer a lot of coverage. The default replacement will be some SKS Longboards as I love those on my CdF; assuming I can get them on with the mini-V-brakes as I hear these can be a bit squiffy for clearance.
The only really serious mechanical issue I've come across so far is the RD cable, which has failed almost entirely and taken a fair bit of paint off the frame as a result. No wonder I could only select half the range on the cassette during the test ride! Otherwise the outers seem OK so I'll just look to replace this inner cable currently; recommendations for trusted brands welcome!
Flat pedals with straps / cages are original fitment, which is grand as I like these and wouldn't want clipless on a utility bike. The crankset is a Deore triple (48/36/26 IIRC) with an Alivio FD, and doesn't look too worn. The chain is (apparently) the original KMC X9 and still has a little life in it according to the Shimano chain checker tool; so I'll probably wax it and see how I get on. Out the back we have an Alivio 11-34 (again IIRC) cassette (which also seems in decent nick) and Deore long-cage RD
[Continued in next post]
The bike as received. It's a "large / 56cm" frame, yet the published reach and stack values are a shade less than my "medium / 53cm" CdF. Yay for sizing conventions that are transparent and fit for purpose..
Book weight is about 12.9kg IIRC but my example comes in at a portly 16.6kg. In it's defence it does have quite a lot of additional stuff hanging off it; some of which will be going.
The frame is a propriatory butted Cro-Mo; with later models getting Reynolds 520. I imagine this one is somewhere between gaspipe and 520, or maybe comparable to 520.
Fuji started off as a proper Japanese brand, however are now apparently American-owned and sell bikes sourced in the east - with this one apparently being made in China.
The front of the bike sports a few additions; including an M-Part low-riding panier rack. It seems OK for what it is, however the fixings leave a bit to be desired and for now at least it'll be coming off since I have no bags for it, while it adds mass and fouls the QR skewers when the wheel's removed.
Can anyone tell me what the hoop is for at the front of the rack please? It's only held on with two bolts (about which it can rotate) and seems like a bit heath-robinson if intended to carry any mass at the end - as it is now.
I'll give the Cateye light a fair crack of the whip if I can find some suitable batteries, however my gut tells me it's probably not going to be overly bright and pretty heavy, so this will likely go in favour of something more modern. The little LED unit on the fork seems like a decent proposition; at least for being seen if not seeing where I'm going.
Finally at the front we have another intriguing rack bolted to the mini-V-brake mounts; I'm not sure whether this is intended for use with a specific bag or is just for general use with bungees.. thoughts on this would be welcome!
The bar tape has seen better days but I'm thinking is probably salvageable with a bit of a clean. The stem is apparently 110mm and I was considering swapping it for a shorter one (as is the norm) however the reach doesn't seem excessive so I'll see how I get on with it. Brake levers probably need re-aligning, while the brakes need a decent setup as lever-pull is excessive; especially on the back.
The brake levers are TRPs which seem pretty nice; these were downgraded to cheaper Tektro items on the 2017 model..
The bike is the first I've ridden / owned with (Microshift) bar-end shifters and while I might have preferred STIs I can appreciate the benefits they can bring and look forward to seeing how I get on with them..
The top tube has a protector fitted; which seems like a great idea given the bike's intended purpose, although I'm not so sold on the aesthetic..
The "enterprisingly fitted" spare tube is perished and will be going, as will the mudguards as they're a bit of a mess and don't appear to offer a lot of coverage. The default replacement will be some SKS Longboards as I love those on my CdF; assuming I can get them on with the mini-V-brakes as I hear these can be a bit squiffy for clearance.
The only really serious mechanical issue I've come across so far is the RD cable, which has failed almost entirely and taken a fair bit of paint off the frame as a result. No wonder I could only select half the range on the cassette during the test ride! Otherwise the outers seem OK so I'll just look to replace this inner cable currently; recommendations for trusted brands welcome!
Flat pedals with straps / cages are original fitment, which is grand as I like these and wouldn't want clipless on a utility bike. The crankset is a Deore triple (48/36/26 IIRC) with an Alivio FD, and doesn't look too worn. The chain is (apparently) the original KMC X9 and still has a little life in it according to the Shimano chain checker tool; so I'll probably wax it and see how I get on. Out the back we have an Alivio 11-34 (again IIRC) cassette (which also seems in decent nick) and Deore long-cage RD
[Continued in next post]
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The bike has been fitted with a Brookes (B17?) saddle, which looks nice but I'm not sure will play well with my rear end, as I can already feel a couple of hot spots beneath my sit-bones having only ridden it for a short time. I'll see how it goes with adjustment (again, input welcome please!), but suspect it might end up getting sold for something more conventional and less theft-worthy - thinking maybe a used Genesis item or perhaps a Charge Spoon..
The saddle bag has definitely seen better days so will doubtless be going!
The rear, original fitment panier rack is fitted with a bolt-on rear light; which works but is tatty and rattles so wants a bit of attention..
The rear wheel has been replaced at some point recently with a Sputnik item from SPA, which looks nice and solid! Both this and the original front wheel are 36-spoke and running Deore hubs. Both appear to be running nice and true. The tyres appear to be the originals and have plenty of life left in them - I was assuming I'd swap them out for something wider, but they seem OK so far so maybe they'll stay.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the seatpost clamp seems to be much better quality than the cack that came fitted to my CdF!
The bike is also been fitted with a stand; while I'm not averse to having one fitted this one evidently doesn't fit very well (thanks to the legit-touring-feature of the two spare spokes on the chainstay) so I suspect it'll be coming off.. I hope the paint's not too ruined underneath. I do love the spare spokes but it seems a little odd that they weren't fitted to the drive side, where they could effectively double up as a chainstay protector..
The bike's not in terrible nick but has plenty of battle damage and could do with a good clean..
Anyway, that's as it stands for now - I'm off outside to start pulling it to bits
The saddle bag has definitely seen better days so will doubtless be going!
The rear, original fitment panier rack is fitted with a bolt-on rear light; which works but is tatty and rattles so wants a bit of attention..
The rear wheel has been replaced at some point recently with a Sputnik item from SPA, which looks nice and solid! Both this and the original front wheel are 36-spoke and running Deore hubs. Both appear to be running nice and true. The tyres appear to be the originals and have plenty of life left in them - I was assuming I'd swap them out for something wider, but they seem OK so far so maybe they'll stay.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the seatpost clamp seems to be much better quality than the cack that came fitted to my CdF!
The bike is also been fitted with a stand; while I'm not averse to having one fitted this one evidently doesn't fit very well (thanks to the legit-touring-feature of the two spare spokes on the chainstay) so I suspect it'll be coming off.. I hope the paint's not too ruined underneath. I do love the spare spokes but it seems a little odd that they weren't fitted to the drive side, where they could effectively double up as a chainstay protector..
The bike's not in terrible nick but has plenty of battle damage and could do with a good clean..
Anyway, that's as it stands for now - I'm off outside to start pulling it to bits
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Vantage
Carbon fibre... LMAO!!!
- Location
- Behind everyone else, Bolton
Nice looking bike.
The hoop on the front is to stop the independent sides of the rack fouling the front wheel. Not something to be desired.
The small rack on your brake bolts is for small bags/baskets/barbags.
The hoop on the front is to stop the independent sides of the rack fouling the front wheel. Not something to be desired.
The small rack on your brake bolts is for small bags/baskets/barbags.
Thanks, and ta for clarifying the purpose of the bolt-on bits!
Unfortunately I think the small rack's going to have to go, as it fouls the cabling and I think might be responsible for / have contributed to the failed RD cable.
Things have escalated somewhat since this morning..
Unfortunately I think the small rack's going to have to go, as it fouls the cabling and I think might be responsible for / have contributed to the failed RD cable.
Things have escalated somewhat since this morning..
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
newfhouse
Resolutely on topic
I still have the (unused) Genesis saddle from my CdF if you’re up for a trade.
GeekDadZoid
Über Member
Lovely looking bike. The spare spokes on my Galaxy are in the same place, I think on the drive side they would be problematic to removed from the holders with a spoke key.
I would probably just stick some full size VBrakes on and get some Tektro Vbrake levers from Spa, they you don't have to worry about clearance and they are a bit better in my experience.
I would probably just stick some full size VBrakes on and get some Tektro Vbrake levers from Spa, they you don't have to worry about clearance and they are a bit better in my experience.
dan_bo
How much does it cost to Oldham?
I've heard the cool kids talk about 'cyclocross bikes'- have you heard of them?
Thanks guys
Cheers - I'll keep it in mind. Might be up for a swap (presumably with a bit of cash my way
); but will see how I get on with it first. The saddle seems to be the "flyer" model, given the springs
A few more points from yesterday - some will probably be relieved to hear I'll not be covering this work in my usual OCD-led detail as there's simply too much to do.
As it stands this morning the bike is stripped down to pretty much its component parts and there are many jobs left to do:
Frame
The frame has been washed and partially cut; the aim today being to cut the rest, maybe chuck some phosphoric acid on the rusty bits and wax it. It's certainly serviceable but has a lot of damage - especially underneath the chainstays where the b*stard stand has been tightened so hard its crimped the tubes slightly in places and taken off a fair bit of paint - needless to say that won't be going back on.
I've emailed Fuji re. touch-up paint availabilty (yeah, no chance I imagine) or at least a paint code so I can try to source some locally.
Drivetrain
Most of the really grotty work is out of the way - the drivetrain has been thoroughly cleaned and awaits re-assembly once the chain has been waxed. I struggled to get the chain off yesterday as like a muppet I've left my quicklink tool at work, but managed to improvise with some electrical crimpers.
The chain has so far been through three jars of paraffin and a couple of good scrubs; yielding an obscene amount of contamination. I've been using a magnet to fish it out of the solvent; which every time came out caked in steel particulates; no doubt the result of the oily grinding paste it was covered in - below is a photo of just some of what came out of the jar on the end of the magnet:
I'm aware that all this processing time might be wasted if the chain's near the end of its life - but I'm tight and this is supposed to be a budget ride so figured it was worth giving it a chance. The chain-checker is optimistic but I might measure it end to end once it's clean to try and get a better idea of the wear present.
Getting the crankset off was "interesting" as the preload plug in the NDS crank arm was difficult with the inconsequential plastic tool I have - mole grips made it happen in the end and I'm pleased to say without any damage to the tool
Mistakes were made with the gearshift cabling. I'd initially thought the cable for the RD had failed internally, however it turned out that the ferrule on the end had failed; exposing the steel core of the outer. I think this was due to lateral loading during steering as the cable was hanging up on the now-removed rack on the front of the bike.
I'd resigned myself to replacing the cables, however thought I'd try to work with what's there so have carefully chopped off the exposed steel of the outer cable with my ever-impressive Proxxon rotary tool and will see if I can get away with refitting it with a new ferrule.
I also cut off the derailleur ends of the shifter cables in the mistaken belief that I needed to do so in order to remove the bar / shifter assembly from the bike; however I think there's still enough meat left to re-use them and if this doesn't prove to be the case I'll only have wasted a bit of time.
Other Stuff
The brakes, saddle/seatpost assys and a few other small bits still need cleaning but this shouldn't be a terrible job. If replacing the gear cables I was going to re-orientate the brake levers and re-wrap the bars with new tape (I don't think the tape would go back on again if fully removed) but for now I'll leave them alone until I've assessed the situation with the shifter cables.
The two sticking points now are a lack of appropriate assembly grease and the situation with the gearshift cable (as at the very least I need another ferrule) - I'm tempted to pop up to the LBS as I'm sure he'll have some, however (in the case of the grease) I'm always wary of blindly buying stuff without having researched it to death first..
As usual this is turning into a fair bit more work than anticipated; but if you're going to do it, it might as well be right. I'm also waiting for @SkipdiverJohn to pop up and berate me for making it look too nice; but as usual I just can't help myself
On paper I knew if I got my arse into gear I could probably have the bike back together in a functioning capacity by tonight; but will have to overcome my fear of the unknown first!
Cheers - I'll keep it in mind. Might be up for a swap (presumably with a bit of cash my way
); but will see how I get on with it first. The saddle seems to be the "flyer" model, given the springs A few more points from yesterday - some will probably be relieved to hear I'll not be covering this work in my usual OCD-led detail as there's simply too much to do.
As it stands this morning the bike is stripped down to pretty much its component parts and there are many jobs left to do:
Frame
The frame has been washed and partially cut; the aim today being to cut the rest, maybe chuck some phosphoric acid on the rusty bits and wax it. It's certainly serviceable but has a lot of damage - especially underneath the chainstays where the b*stard stand has been tightened so hard its crimped the tubes slightly in places and taken off a fair bit of paint - needless to say that won't be going back on.
I've emailed Fuji re. touch-up paint availabilty (yeah, no chance I imagine) or at least a paint code so I can try to source some locally.
Drivetrain
Most of the really grotty work is out of the way - the drivetrain has been thoroughly cleaned and awaits re-assembly once the chain has been waxed. I struggled to get the chain off yesterday as like a muppet I've left my quicklink tool at work, but managed to improvise with some electrical crimpers.
The chain has so far been through three jars of paraffin and a couple of good scrubs; yielding an obscene amount of contamination. I've been using a magnet to fish it out of the solvent; which every time came out caked in steel particulates; no doubt the result of the oily grinding paste it was covered in - below is a photo of just some of what came out of the jar on the end of the magnet:
I'm aware that all this processing time might be wasted if the chain's near the end of its life - but I'm tight and this is supposed to be a budget ride so figured it was worth giving it a chance. The chain-checker is optimistic but I might measure it end to end once it's clean to try and get a better idea of the wear present.
Getting the crankset off was "interesting" as the preload plug in the NDS crank arm was difficult with the inconsequential plastic tool I have - mole grips made it happen in the end and I'm pleased to say without any damage to the tool
Mistakes were made with the gearshift cabling. I'd initially thought the cable for the RD had failed internally, however it turned out that the ferrule on the end had failed; exposing the steel core of the outer. I think this was due to lateral loading during steering as the cable was hanging up on the now-removed rack on the front of the bike.
I'd resigned myself to replacing the cables, however thought I'd try to work with what's there so have carefully chopped off the exposed steel of the outer cable with my ever-impressive Proxxon rotary tool and will see if I can get away with refitting it with a new ferrule.
I also cut off the derailleur ends of the shifter cables in the mistaken belief that I needed to do so in order to remove the bar / shifter assembly from the bike; however I think there's still enough meat left to re-use them and if this doesn't prove to be the case I'll only have wasted a bit of time.
Other Stuff
The brakes, saddle/seatpost assys and a few other small bits still need cleaning but this shouldn't be a terrible job. If replacing the gear cables I was going to re-orientate the brake levers and re-wrap the bars with new tape (I don't think the tape would go back on again if fully removed) but for now I'll leave them alone until I've assessed the situation with the shifter cables.
The two sticking points now are a lack of appropriate assembly grease and the situation with the gearshift cable (as at the very least I need another ferrule) - I'm tempted to pop up to the LBS as I'm sure he'll have some, however (in the case of the grease) I'm always wary of blindly buying stuff without having researched it to death first..
As usual this is turning into a fair bit more work than anticipated; but if you're going to do it, it might as well be right. I'm also waiting for @SkipdiverJohn to pop up and berate me for making it look too nice; but as usual I just can't help myself
On paper I knew if I got my arse into gear I could probably have the bike back together in a functioning capacity by tonight; but will have to overcome my fear of the unknown first!
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