So you're short and you want to go bikepacking....

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T4tomo

Legendary Member
My OH has this issue as her frame is pretty small, 50cm top tube. Her solution is to pass anything that needs carrying beyond one water battle and small seat pack with spare inner tube etc to me to carry.
 
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It seems to be rocket science for some designers. How does fitting shorter cranks magically lower a frame that's designed for 175mm cranks in the first place? It needs to be designed and made for them at the factory, otherwise it's still a small frame with a high BB. Even so, a small frame with fattish tubing still won't have much more space within the triangle.

If the rack eyelets are mounted below the top of the wheel, keeping the rack horizontal and using cranked connector rods or strips still preserves some degree of triangularity. A more rigid solution would be to attach the front end of the rack to a seatpost mounted clamp with integral eyelets, assuming there's enough seatpost showing.

This is a designer issue
You mention fat tubing. Again , designers put fat tubing everywhere but small triangles are naturally stiffer than big triangles so can use smaller diameter tubing. Even worse, the forces created by small riders are smaller so their super stiff small triangle, fat tubed frames are way stiffer ( and heavier) than required
 

UphillSlowly

Making my way slowly uphill
This is just a little post to highlight what works for me, as someone who's 5'2" and rides a 46cm gravel bike, with drop bars. I've tried a few different variations over the past couple of years, and is based purely on my own experience.
A run down of the bikes I've used:
46cm Orro Terra C gravel bike ( main bikepacking bike)
46cm Sublime Zoku (aero road bike)
47cm Felt F40x CX bike (sadly stolen and replaced with the Orro).
As with anyone riding a small or XS small bike, on bike storage is a major issue. Small frame triangle with maybe only one bottlecage, short headtube (no matter the style of bike), limited clearance between the saddle and rear wheel, narrow handlebars, etc.
I'm lucky with my saddle height due to long legs for my height (31" inseam), so can just about run a 15 litre saddlebag bag if I pack it just right. However, packing it just right is a ball ache. Alao, it sways like a mofo if packed poorly.
prior to trying a 15 lotre, I found a 12 litre altura vortex worked really well clearance wise. It also didnt sway noticeably. However, once I started camping, I didn't have enough on bike storage for everything.
I've opted to run a Tailfin Aeropack with 5 litre mini panniers. Everything I used to put in the large saddlebag, I now split between the aeropack and mini panniers. I could fit everything in the aeropack, but I have a dropper post and want to be able to have full use of it. So, if you're struggling finding a saddlebag, look into something like a Tailfin or just a standard rack and pannier bags. Several companies are now making smaller, more off-road oriented panniers. If you don't have rack mounts, there are a few companies making a more budget friendly racks for bikes without mounts than Tailfin (Ortlieb Quick Rack and an Aeroe Spider spring to mind).
For my main triangle, I opted for a custom made full frame bag from bike-bag UK. I tried a few different frame bags, but none fot quite right, so went for custom. I chose bike-bag uk because they offer a fully custom bag for a very good price, cheaper than a lot of mass market bags out there. Instructions are on their website, but the crux of it is, you post them a template of your frame bag, place an order on their website with what features you want, pay, and they make and ship the bag to you. It was less than a week turnaround and cost me around £55 for my bag. It's just over 3 litres in size and fits my apidura 3 litre frame bag hydration bladder and a few smaller bits around it.
I've tried several different handlebar bags over the years. I started with a 5 litre altura vortex. It's just a fraction too small to fit my sleeping bag and mat. Last year I used a 13 litre alpkit deluge with a roo pouch (quick access needs like food, layers, etc), and this year I've opted for a restrap small bar bag/harness with the 1.5litre food pouch. With 40cm bars, the capacity is nowhere near 14 litres, much closer to 8 or 9, which is perfect for my sleeping bag and mat.
Now, I have a very short head tube having a 46cm bike. There are a few different options for pushing your bar bag up and away from your handlebars. Restrap make their bump bar, but at £40, it's not exactly cheap. However, for around £10 off Amazon, you can buy a handlebar extension. Instead of mounting it above your handlebars, mount it below so it's parallel with your headtube. This will push your handlebar bag up and away from your wheel and eliminate rub.
I've tried anything cages on my forks, but I wasn't a fan, but it also is another option for storage if you need it. when I used the anything cages, i stored a tent in one side, and various lightweight spares in the other.
As for top tube bags, my tob tube felt crowded with one on, so I've rarely used one.

Thanks for this
 

Sallar55

Veteran
This is a designer issue
You mention fat tubing. Again , designers put fat tubing everywhere but small triangles are naturally stiffer than big triangles so can use smaller diameter tubing. Even worse, the forces created by small riders are smaller so their super stiff small triangle, fat tubed frames are way stiffer ( and heavier) than required
Fat tubes are usually lighter , as they can have thinner wall thickness and are just as stiff/strong.
 
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