So you're short and you want to go bikepacking....

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rivers

How far can I go?
Location
Bristol
This is just a little post to highlight what works for me, as someone who's 5'2" and rides a 46cm gravel bike, with drop bars. I've tried a few different variations over the past couple of years, and is based purely on my own experience.
A run down of the bikes I've used:
46cm Orro Terra C gravel bike ( main bikepacking bike)
46cm Sublime Zoku (aero road bike)
47cm Felt F40x CX bike (sadly stolen and replaced with the Orro).
As with anyone riding a small or XS small bike, on bike storage is a major issue. Small frame triangle with maybe only one bottlecage, short headtube (no matter the style of bike), limited clearance between the saddle and rear wheel, narrow handlebars, etc.
I'm lucky with my saddle height due to long legs for my height (31" inseam), so can just about run a 15 litre saddlebag bag if I pack it just right. However, packing it just right is a ball ache. Alao, it sways like a mofo if packed poorly.
prior to trying a 15 lotre, I found a 12 litre altura vortex worked really well clearance wise. It also didnt sway noticeably. However, once I started camping, I didn't have enough on bike storage for everything.
I've opted to run a Tailfin Aeropack with 5 litre mini panniers. Everything I used to put in the large saddlebag, I now split between the aeropack and mini panniers. I could fit everything in the aeropack, but I have a dropper post and want to be able to have full use of it. So, if you're struggling finding a saddlebag, look into something like a Tailfin or just a standard rack and pannier bags. Several companies are now making smaller, more off-road oriented panniers. If you don't have rack mounts, there are a few companies making a more budget friendly racks for bikes without mounts than Tailfin (Ortlieb Quick Rack and an Aeroe Spider spring to mind).
For my main triangle, I opted for a custom made full frame bag from bike-bag UK. I tried a few different frame bags, but none fot quite right, so went for custom. I chose bike-bag uk because they offer a fully custom bag for a very good price, cheaper than a lot of mass market bags out there. Instructions are on their website, but the crux of it is, you post them a template of your frame bag, place an order on their website with what features you want, pay, and they make and ship the bag to you. It was less than a week turnaround and cost me around £55 for my bag. It's just over 3 litres in size and fits my apidura 3 litre frame bag hydration bladder and a few smaller bits around it.
I've tried several different handlebar bags over the years. I started with a 5 litre altura vortex. It's just a fraction too small to fit my sleeping bag and mat. Last year I used a 13 litre alpkit deluge with a roo pouch (quick access needs like food, layers, etc), and this year I've opted for a restrap small bar bag/harness with the 1.5litre food pouch. With 40cm bars, the capacity is nowhere near 14 litres, much closer to 8 or 9, which is perfect for my sleeping bag and mat.
Now, I have a very short head tube having a 46cm bike. There are a few different options for pushing your bar bag up and away from your handlebars. Restrap make their bump bar, but at £40, it's not exactly cheap. However, for around £10 off Amazon, you can buy a handlebar extension. Instead of mounting it above your handlebars, mount it below so it's parallel with your headtube. This will push your handlebar bag up and away from your wheel and eliminate rub.
I've tried anything cages on my forks, but I wasn't a fan, but it also is another option for storage if you need it. when I used the anything cages, i stored a tent in one side, and various lightweight spares in the other.
As for top tube bags, my tob tube felt crowded with one on, so I've rarely used one.
 

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mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
Several good tips in there. Thanks for sharing.

We probably should warn people that the Tailfin AeroPack starts from £230 for an alloy frame-mounted version without pannier mounts. +£30 for pannier mounts, +£55 for a 5L mini-pannier, and I didn't click to see how much the carbon version is!
 
OP
OP
rivers

rivers

How far can I go?
Location
Bristol
Several good tips in there. Thanks for sharing.

We probably should warn people that the Tailfin AeroPack starts from £230 for an alloy frame-mounted version without pannier mounts. +£30 for pannier mounts, +£55 for a 5L mini-pannier, and I didn't click to see how much the carbon version is!

I did add that there are more budget friendly options than tailfin for bikes without mounts- Ortlieb Quick Rack and Aeroe Spider. But, I can't fault the tailfin, and am glad I bought one. I did have to sell quite a bit of unused kit to fund it, but I'm glad I did
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
I did add that there are more budget friendly options than tailfin for bikes without mounts- Ortlieb Quick Rack and Aeroe Spider. But, I can't fault the tailfin, and am glad I bought one. I did have to sell quite a bit of unused kit to fund it, but I'm glad I did
Not faulting your choice. Just wanted to give a bit more info.

https://www.thewoodscyclery.co.uk/shop/bags/pannier-bags/ortlieb-quick-rack/ says that Ortlieb still needs rack mounts, but it could be wrong.

The Aeroe Spider appears to be £100-120.
 

PaulSB

Legendary Member
This is a great thread. Thank you. I'm taller than you at 5'6" but my inside leg is only 29" meaning I have very little seat post clearance.

It would be a help if you could post the length of exposed seat post on your bike.
 
Most small bikes have wheels that are too big, with geometry bodged to make them fit. Anything bigger than 26"MTB is too big.
Also look at crank length. Small legs need small cranks. This also solves the problem of toe clip overlap with front wheel.
Dont get the bars too wide.
For luggage, the old fashioned saddlebags from Carradice are hard to beat.
 
OP
OP
rivers

rivers

How far can I go?
Location
Bristol
This is a great thread. Thank you. I'm taller than you at 5'6" but my inside leg is only 29" meaning I have very little seat post clearance.

It would be a help if you could post the length of exposed seat post on your bike.
I have about 180mm of exposed seat post.
20230629_083738.jpg
 

a.twiddler

Veteran
Most gear seems aimed at Mr or Ms Average. Bad enough for a road type frame but, add the higher BB on a mountain bike and it's a puzzle to carry even a water bottle within the frame, let alone bags.
 

Fiona R

Formerly known as Cranky Knee Girl
Location
N Somerset
Pannier rack and small ortleib front roller panniers on the back. No room for seatpost bag on my xs frame, hard enough just squeezing a seatpost tool bag on, two bottle holders in frame and not even an option to have feed bags on bars as knees hit them. Yes my bike is right size, had bike fit. Ortleib bar bag on front for electronics food waterproof etc on road bike. Can always strap my Soloist tent on top of rack if bags full with extra food. I've done this on my road /gravel bike and hardtail.
 
Most gear seems aimed at Mr or Ms Average. Bad enough for a road type frame but, add the higher BB on a mountain bike and it's a puzzle to carry even a water bottle within the frame, let alone bags.

The high BB on small frames is to prevent pedal strike when fitted with the usual 175mm extra long cranks. If you fit proportional short cranks , the frame designer can lower the BB of the design and get a bike that is easier to mount as well as more triangle space.

By using 26" wheels you get the rear rack mounting eyelets above the top of the tyre instead of below. Low eyelets need the rack stays angled down so there is no triangular strength to the rack structure.

Is this rocket science ?
 

a.twiddler

Veteran
The high BB on small frames is to prevent pedal strike when fitted with the usual 175mm extra long cranks. If you fit proportional short cranks , the frame designer can lower the BB of the design and get a bike that is easier to mount as well as more triangle space.

By using 26" wheels you get the rear rack mounting eyelets above the top of the tyre instead of below. Low eyelets need the rack stays angled down so there is no triangular strength to the rack structure.

Is this rocket science ?

It seems to be rocket science for some designers. How does fitting shorter cranks magically lower a frame that's designed for 175mm cranks in the first place? It needs to be designed and made for them at the factory, otherwise it's still a small frame with a high BB. Even so, a small frame with fattish tubing still won't have much more space within the triangle.

If the rack eyelets are mounted below the top of the wheel, keeping the rack horizontal and using cranked connector rods or strips still preserves some degree of triangularity. A more rigid solution would be to attach the front end of the rack to a seatpost mounted clamp with integral eyelets, assuming there's enough seatpost showing.
 
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