Some novice questions on servicing my bike

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dac

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I have a Marin Lucas Valley. The below link shows the spec of the bike:
http://www.ykkbikes.com/content/2012-marin-lucas-valley

It's in desperate need of a clean and, no doubt, service. As a novice, I have some questions.

Question 1 - Cleaning
The cassette and chainring are full of grime. What I have done is sprayed loads of WD40 on them, with a layer of Fairy washing up liquid, then some more WD40. I will let that settle for a couple of days before I get round to washing it off. I have since read washing up liquid contains salt which isn't ideal, a bit late now. I intend to wash the whole bike with warm soapy water and then dry it thoroughly with a cloth. I will use a toothbrush around the cassette and chainring.
--Is the washing up liquid I've applied likely cause damage if washed fully off, followed by a good dose of lubricant spray?

Question 2 - Lubricant
I have use in the past GT85 with some Finish Line Wet Oil. I found the wet oil really attracts dirt.
--Is it just fine to use a healthy dose of GT85 all over (cassette, chainring, brake cables, etc..)?

Question 3 - Inner Tube
As you can see from the spec, the bike has Alex DC19 rims. They have Presta valves currently.
--Can I use Schrader valves with these rims or do I have to stick with Presta?
The tyres on the bike are 700c by 28mm.
--What size inner tube is suitable for this tyre (i.e. 700c by 20mm-25mm, or 700c by 28mm-32mm)?
--What length of value is suitable for the rim (42mm, 60mm, 80mm)? I think 42mm are on there currently. --Any benefit with going for longer valves?

Question 4 - Tyre
The tyres on the bike are 700c by 28mm.
--Does anyone know the largest (width) tyre I can use on this bike (for example, will it take 700c by 32mm)?

Question 5 - Chainring
The cassette looks fine, however the chainring has two teeth (if I can call them that), on opposite sides of the chainring, that are bent out (sidewards, actually inwards) by 1-1.5mm. The bike still changes gears fine.
--Are teeth being bent inwards ever so slightly normal?
--Should I attempt to bend the each tooth back just a tad? What would you riders do?

Questions 6 - Pump
I've lost my foot pump and wish to purchase an old school type hand pump (not a bracket attachable pump) so I can fit it in my ruck sack. I find smaller bracket pumps flimsy.
Will a pump like the be robust and strong enough to fully inflate a 700c tyre?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Halfords-Essentials-High-Volume-Bike-Bicyle-Pump
A lot of these hand pumps have Schrader connectors/adapters.
--I've seen these small brass Presta to Schrader adapters online (see below link) for about a £1. Do these actually work or do they fail when attempting high pressure inflation (as it will mean I can simply buy a Schrader pump of my choice and use the adapter)?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-BRASS-ADAPTOR-PRESTA-TO-SCHRADER-BICYCLE-VALVE

I hope these questions are suitable for this forum. I am a novice and would like to attempt to service my bike myself. There is plenty of videos online but they don't necessary answer my specific questions.

Thank you in advance.
 
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smutchin

Cat 6 Racer
Location
The Red Enclave
1 - you don’t need to leave it for more than a few minutes. Best to use bike-specific cleaning products. Be careful about getting WD40 into hubs, bottom bracket etc where it will strip grease.

2 - use the Finish Line chain lube but wipe off the excess on the outside. Be very thorough about this. You only need lube on the internal workings of the chain.

3 - Schraeder valves are fatter than presta valves so won’t be suitable for your rims as the hole will be too narrow. There’s no benefit in long valve stems unless you have deep rims.

4 - stick the largest Allen key you can between the tyre and fork crown. That will give you an idea how much bigger tyres you can fit.

5 - pass. Could be the chainrings are designed that way, could be you’ve damaged them. Hard to know without pictures.

6 - a Zefal HPX pump is good for high pressures. You want something with a long, narrow barrel, not a short fat barrel.
 

iluvmybike

Über Member
Re question 5 - your chainrings are specifically shaped so that some teeth look bent - they are intended to be like that ot help with smooth take up of the chain. Do not attempt to bend them back. You may also spot a few that seem to be shorter than others - they are supposed to be that way.
Re Q2 & 3 If you want to clean your cassette it is easiest to remove it and clean it then refit - it is totally unneccessary to spray lube all over it, or your chainrings - only the chain needs to be lubed. If you spray lube all over the place it will just attract dirt & grit and create an oily, greasy mess
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
Amongst the pumps that achieve high pressures and fit into a rucsac is the Topeak Road Morph. A medium sized pump that morphs (hence the name) into a track pump. The head can be fiddled with to swap between presta and Schrader valves,.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Re question 5 - your chainrings are specifically shaped so that some teeth look bent - they are intended to be like that ot help with smooth take up of the chain. Do not attempt to bend them back. You may also spot a few that seem to be shorter than others - they are supposed to be that way.
Re Q2 & 3 If you want to clean your cassette it is easiest to remove it and clean it then refit - it is totally unneccessary to spray lube all over it, or your chainrings - only the chain needs to be lubed. If you spray lube all over the place it will just attract dirt & grit and create an oily, greasy mess

Mostly agree, but I find it easier to clean the cassette whilst it's still on the wheel, using the edge of a cloth, feed it between the sprockets and use the freewheel to clean it in a sawing motion. Gets right to the bottom and if you angle the wheel slightly the friction cleans the sprockets up like nothing else. Spray a bit of degreaser on the cassette first for a top notch clean.
 

flake99please

We all scream for ice cream
Location
Edinburgh
Mostly agree, but I find it easier to clean the cassette whilst it's still on the wheel, using the edge of a cloth, feed it between the sprockets and use the freewheel to clean it in a sawing motion. Gets right to the bottom and if you angle the wheel slightly the friction cleans the sprockets up like nothing else. Spray a bit of degreaser on the cassette first for a top notch clean.

An old 'gift card' (or CD) wrapped in cloth is a great way to clean between each sprocket.
 

iluvmybike

Über Member
Mostly agree, but I find it easier to clean the cassette whilst it's still on the wheel, using the edge of a cloth, feed it between the sprockets and use the freewheel to clean it in a sawing motion. Gets right to the bottom and if you angle the wheel slightly the friction cleans the sprockets up like nothing else. Spray a bit of degreaser on the cassette first for a top notch clean.
You can buy floss for dong that too e.g https://www.sprocketandgear.co.uk/e...MIlte3me6l3AIVzUPTCh3Y0wceEAQYBCABEgK2xfD_BwE
 
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dac

Well-Known Member
So I’ve given the bike a good clean. Took 1.5 hours. However, I have since brought some bike cleaner, similar to muc-off but cheaper, rather than the WD40 and fairy liquid that I initially used, so I’ll probably give it another once over. It’s a a lot cleaner now. Once finally done, I shall give it a healthy dose of GT85. By the way, turning the pedals whilst placing a toothbrush on the cassette and chainring works a treat.

Vickster and Tim Hall - thanks for your replies on the pumps. Looking at them further I like the
https://www.evanscycles.com/lezyne-micro-floor-drive-hv-2017-EV315977

Why? I like how it uses screw-on adaptors rather than the connect and lift flap to secure method.
Can I ask for a suggestion on a pump that (cheaper the better):
1) uses a metal/brass type screw-on connector to the inner tube valve?
2) that uses a Presta connector
3) that’s small enough to fit into a rucksack or pannier bag
4) robust enough to handle the pressure required for a road bike
5) is designed to pump up a tyre in the quickest time possible
6) preferably can morph into a foot style pump

Iluvmybike - you mention my chainring is designed to have bent teeth. Is this a generic response to chainrings or do you know that the chainring used on my Marin is specifically designed that way?

Smutchin and rest - thanks for your responses.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Can I ask for a suggestion on a pump that (cheaper the better):
1) uses a metal/brass type screw-on connector to the inner tube valve?
2) that uses a Presta connector
3) that’s small enough to fit into a rucksack or pannier bag
4) robust enough to handle the pressure required for a road bike
5) is designed to pump up a tyre in the quickest time possible
6) preferably can morph into a foot style pump
Not super cheap - but look at this basically the same as the one you linked but for road bikes instead. Lezyne pumps are excellent, and well worth the money.

Iluvmybike - you mention my chainring is designed to have bent teeth. Is this a generic response to chainrings or do you know that the chainring used on my Marin is specifically designed that way?.

Most chainrings are shaped in this way, the exception being very cheap ones or those designed for bikes with only 1 front ring. The reason they are shaped like this is that it allows the chain to slide on or off the rings easier and quieter. Those on your Marin will be designed this way.

It takes either a lot of miles or a lot of riding in really really poor conditions to wear a front chainring out, and you will know when this happens as your chain will likely start slipping. Of course if you never clean your bike and don't change your chain when it's worn then that can significantly reduce the lifespan of a chainring, but otherwise their lifespan is measured in tens of thousands of miles - especially the big ring.
 
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One thing to keep in mind when using Lezyne screw-on type pumps is to make sure that you ensure the valve cores are tight on your inner tubes when fitting new ones.

If they aren’t done up tightly, and this is surprisingly common, they will come undone when you remove the pump after pumping up your tyres and you’ll lose all the air.

I use a Lezyne pump and tend to favour inner tubes that don’t have removable cores for this reason.

Graham
 
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si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
One thing to keep in mind when using Lezyne screw-on type pumps is to make sure that you ensure the valve cores are tight on your inner tubes when fitting new ones.

If they aren’t done up tightly, and this is surprisingly common, they will come undone when you remove the pump after pumping up your tyres and you’ll lose all the air.

I use a Lezyne pump and tend to favour inner tubes that don’t have removable cores for this reason.

Graham

Good point, but I've found I don't need to overtighten the hose with my pump, lightly on is more than enough, use the ABS button to lower the pressure in the tube and it comes off really really easily.
 
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dac

Well-Known Member
si_c and tenacious sloth - thanks for your replies. I’m not sure I follow the tightening/loosening of the valve when using the pump but once bought I’m sure I’ll work it out.

Two more questions if I may:
1) the brake and gear cables that run along the frame have a little bit of rust on them. What’s the best way of de-rusting this? Would it be to apply some WD40 on a cloth and rub it along the cables?

2) I have WD40, GT85, and 3 in 1 sprays (all sprays). I have no oil fluid, or even motor oil fluid. What would I use WD40, GT85, and 3 in 1 sprays for?
Would I use WD40 when my sole purpose is to penetrate grease and draw out water? Would I use GT85 when I want to draw out water but also leave lubrication? Would I use the 3 in 1 spray (not the oil fluid version so not sure if the same) when I want to leave a stronger form of lubricant, such as on the chain?

I do have some lithium grease too. What can/should this grease be used on? A chain by any chance?

Other than this, I’m not sure if I will buy anything further so would like to make do with the sprays and grease I’ve already got.

Thanks.
 
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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Q2 - Lubricant
I have use in the past GT85 with some Finish Line Wet Oil. I found the wet oil really attracts dirt.
--Is it just fine to use a healthy dose of GT85 all over (cassette, chainring, brake cables, etc..)?

Addl Q2 - the brake and gear cables that run along the frame have a little bit of rust on them. What’s the best way of de-rusting this?
A2: GT85 over the cassette, chainrings and derailleurs but not over chain.. Chain needs oil such as the make you have. Dirt? Clean and relube, at least weekly/100k.
A addl 2: Provided it's only a little bit, a cloth with some oil on rubbed along the cables will sort that. I'd use the chain oil you mentioned: the lubricant sprays will be too 'light'.
But the fact that they've rusted at all implies they're 'inexpensive' cables whereas stainless steel cables are almost exclusively used nowadays, except for BSOs. So put 'replacing cables' on your list of things to do idc, starting with the rear derailleur cable. Replace outers at the same time as you replace each (inner) cable.
 
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