sram bb30 bottom bracket

[ianwoodi]

yesterday i got a clicking noise coming from bottom bracket i have striped it down and bearings are ok they have only done 1000 miles so i have taken the metal spacer out and the clicking has gone will it be ok without the spacer no movement on cranck from side to side

 

[smokeysmoo]

I'd be tempted to put it back TBH.

BB30 is very much prone to creaks due to the tight tolerances it has to work with, my own proclivities on the subject are well documented.

I'd replace the spacer, ensure all is clean and greased and rebuild it, I'm sure you'll find it will be OK, for a while at least.

In a nutshell, regular cleaning of BB30 seems to be the way forward.

FWIW I did away with BB30 completely and converted my road bike to Hollowtech II, never had a single issue with it since, but then again BB30 seems to have improved as well in recent months, although it will forever remain the answer to a problem that never existed IMO.

If you still have noise issues it may be worth checking out THIS site, noises don't always emanate from where you think/expect they might.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

My recently new bike started doing the same after 100miles or so. A tiny drop of oil shut it up completely, have raced in the kind of weather a canoe would have been faster in and it's still fine.

I went for the oil as removing FSA cranks requires 10million tools and 25 pairs of hands or something... I concede that I'll have to do it eventually

 

[smokeysmoo]

BB30 only requires a 10 or 12mm allen wrench to enable complete removal of the cranks.

Granted removal/fitting of the bearings requires extra tools, (technically at least), although you could improvise using a drift and a persuader to remove, and a block of wood and a persuader to refit if need be.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

FSA Gossamer pro with a stupid locking cap over the bolt

 

[ianwoodi]

done 20 miles to test out the bottom bracket and its nice and smooth and no clicking with out that metal shim left the other two plastic shims in. The metal shim isnt flat should it be like that anyway i see how we go can put metal shim back in min if needed

 

[slow coach]

Ah good old bb30 strikes again. i have had clicking noises from the bb30 one one of my bikes, drove me nuts. However I did manage to solve it by basically greasing everything you can see including the splines and the retaining nut thread and tightening it all up with a torque wrench, worked a treat. with regard to ianwoodi's original query. i take it that the not flat washer is the wave washer. this must be fitted along with the bearing shields on either side. the two plastic spacer shims are only to be used if there is side to side play when only the wave washer and shields are fitted.

 

[ianwoodi]

Thanks for all the advice i have now replaced the wave washer and packed some silcon grease in works fine now what would i do without this site happy days

 

[Rob3rt]

What metal shim? There are several additional pieces that sit outboard of the bearings on a BB30 chainset.

Edit: Just re-read with less haste, I would suggest you do not leave the wave washer off, it is used to preload the bearings, you would have to get very lucky to have the cranket fit the bearings and frame so perfect as to not need it, I am sure it happens though!

BTW, some cranksets don't need it, as they have a threaded pre-loader on the none drive side, if they don't have this, put the wave washer in!

 

[Rob3rt]

FSA Gossamer pro with a stupid locking cap over the bolt

I had an FSA crankset which LOOKED like there was additional tools required (a ring with small holes that looked like you needed a special tool, around the hex bolt), but it was not the case. Is this something different?

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

I had an FSA crankset which LOOKED like there was additional tools required (a ring with small holes that looked like you needed a special tool, around the hex bolt), but it was not the case. Is this something different?

Thats exactly what it is :s

 

[Rob3rt]

Show me a pic, if it is like my Trimax crankset, then you don't need to touch that (I don't know what that is, it might just be something to but up against part of the hex bolt for the self extracting mechanism to work), just get your allen key in the centre bolt and it should come off.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

Bike is 17mi away, later

@Rob3rt

 

[Rob3rt]

Okay, same thing. No need for special tools, just need the hex key in the middle and turn in the right direction. My guess is the other part is something to do with an assembly of the self extracting mechanism (no need for crank pullers etc) and is not of concern with regards removing the crank. As you turn the allen key, the crank arm will come off as it unwinds.

 

[Howard]

Yes - the part that requires the pin spanner is the self extractor.