SS/Fixie Newbie Questions

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If all goes to plan I'll be picking up a second-hand Genesis Day One with SS/Fixed flip flop hub this weekend.

Apart from an evening tearing around Derby velodrome last year, I've never been near a fixed gear or single speed bike, so am rather wet behind the ears when it comes to running & maintenance.

So, a few questions -

I'm guessing a single speed chain will last a few more miles than my 10 speed road chain (any suggestions on ball park mileage per chain?), but as it's on the one sprocket all the time does that mean that it's advisable to change the sprocket and the chain together every time, rather than the 3 chains per cassette standard that I apply with my derailleur bikes?

Chain tension - after taking off the rear wheel to change tyres/mend punctures, when refitting it and popping the chain back on, what's the best way to ensure the chain is at the right tension and rear wheel stays 100% straight? Do I need any tools apart from an adjustable spanner and allen keys? Chain tugs - if the bike doesn't have these (not sure til I pick it up) should I fit some? Are they easy to fit?

Anything else I should know that life with road and CX bikes might not have prepared me for?

Cheers,

Andy
 

Threevok

Growing old disgracefully
Location
South Wales
Chains and Cogs - can't tell you how long they last - mine show no signs of wear after a year

If you end up like me - continuously changing front and rear cogs for different conditions/applications then just replace whatever gets worn I suppose

I have chain tugs (DMR ones) but there are some ratios when I can't use them. for this (if you are using them) use a good QR Skewer, one that can be tightened quite tight (shimano are good)

Aligning the wheel I find more of a pain WITH the tugs on
 
D

Deleted member 1258

Guest
Chain life is similar to a geared bike, I recon between 2 and 3000 miles for mine. Cogs are usually long lived. When tensioning a chain on a fixed its likely to have tight and loose spots in it so tension on a tight spot, if you pull the wheel back then nip up the non drive side nut then fine tune the chain tension before tightening the drive side nut then square the wheel up in the frame by loosening and adjusting the non drive side nut, Chain tugs are a personal choice, if you want them have them, if not don't bother with them
 

oldstrath

Über Member
Location
Strathspey
My Day One ( excellent bike by the way) just needs Allen keys. If you do need a spanner for track nuts I'd suggest the right size tool rather than a movie - lighter, and less likely to round stuff.
 
D

Deleted member 1258

Guest
My Day One ( excellent bike by the way) just needs Allen keys. If you do need a spanner for track nuts I'd suggest the right size tool rather than a movie - lighter, and less likely to round stuff.

One thing to remember, if you've got a big spanner you use in the workshop and a lighter spanner you carry in your saddle bag don't lean on the big spanner too hard, or you'll never get the nut undone by the roadside, which is embarrassing and could lead to a long walk.
 
Location
Salford
I don't know about fixed but I commute daily on a Day One Disc with single speed freewheel.

I find that half link chains last longer; initially they "stretch" quickly but then settle down and last 4,000 miles plus. I get it short as possible when fitted.

Also a good freewheel is a good investment. I went for White Industries after destroying cheaper Shimano ones too often and I mean total failures. The WI sprocket is good for loads of wear and you can change just the sprocket when it's worn out. They're easy to dismantle and service. I am on the original inner, bearing, pawls and springs after 10,000 miles or more and the second outer. I kept the old outer; there's life in it yet.
 
OP
OP
EasyPeez

EasyPeez

Veteran
fine tune the chain tension
Forgive the silly question, but what does a finely tuned chain look/feel like? I assumed nice and tight on both cogs/not too much slack, but is there more to it than this? Same whether running it fixed or SS?

Watch out the first time you go downhill fixed. Finding the pedals have a mind of their own is a bit unnerving the first time it happens!
Yeah...I got a couple of kicks up the posterior on the velodrome when I forgot to pedal - keeps you on your toes, quite literally! Think I'll be sticking with SS mode for the commute.

Also a good freewheel is a good investment. I went for White Industries after destroying cheaper Shimano ones too often and I mean total failures
Again, forgive my ignorance but the freewheel is the rear cog, right? Rather than a part of the hub, like the freehub on my current bikes?

Is this the kind of thing you have fitted? How often do you replace them?

https://www.evanscycles.com/token-1...MIxue3yuKO1wIVEuEbCh3EzQJ-EAQYASABEgKjTvD_BwE


Also @MossCommuter & @oldstrath - What chains do you use?
And do you have mudguards fitted? And if so what size tyres are you running. I'm wondering about SKS full guards with 28mm tyres.

Thanks for the info and tips so far :smile:
 
OP
OP
EasyPeez

EasyPeez

Veteran
I get it short as possible when fitted.

Doesn't this cause any problems getting the chain off to get the rear wheel out?
 
Location
Salford
Forgive the silly question, but what does a finely tuned chain look/feel like? I assumed nice and tight on both cogs/not too much slack, but is there more to it than this? Same whether running it fixed or SS?


Yeah...I got a couple of kicks up the posterior on the velodrome when I forgot to pedal - keeps you on your toes, quite literally! Think I'll be sticking with SS mode for the commute.


Again, forgive my ignorance but the freewheel is the rear cog, right? Rather than a part of the hub, like the freehub on my current bikes?

Is this the kind of thing you have fitted? How often do you replace them?

https://www.evanscycles.com/token-1...MIxue3yuKO1wIVEuEbCh3EzQJ-EAQYASABEgKjTvD_BwE


Also @MossCommuter & @oldstrath - What chains do you use?
And do you have mudguards fitted? And if so what size tyres are you running. I'm wondering about SKS full guards with 28mm tyres.

Thanks for the info and tips so far :smile:
It's the single cog and bearing on the back wheel. In place of the cassette. The Shimano one is like the ones that I have destroyed by my immense power (i.e. weight :shy:).

I don't know the brand of chain but it's like a BMX one. The local bike shop fitted it.
 
D

Deleted member 1258

Guest
Forgive the silly question, but what does a finely tuned chain look/feel like? I assumed nice and tight on both cogs/not too much slack, but is there more to it than this? Same whether running it fixed or SS?


Yeah...I got a couple of kicks up the posterior on the velodrome when I forgot to pedal - keeps you on your toes, quite literally! Think I'll be sticking with SS mode for the commute.


Again, forgive my ignorance but the freewheel is the rear cog, right? Rather than a part of the hub, like the freehub on my current bikes?

Is this the kind of thing you have fitted? How often do you replace them?

https://www.evanscycles.com/token-1...MIxue3yuKO1wIVEuEbCh3EzQJ-EAQYASABEgKjTvD_BwE


Also @MossCommuter & @oldstrath - do you have mudguards fitted? And if so what size tyres are you running. I'm wondering about SKS full guards with 28mm tyres.

Thanks for the info and tips so far :smile:

A fixed chain tends to develop loose and tight spots on it but I'm looking at less than an inch of up and down movement in the chain if I can get it. I run full mudguards on my genesis, its a 700c wheel size. If you're running a bike with rear facing track ends on it remember to leave enough space between the wheel and mudguard to get the wheel out, I use secu clips on my bike.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mudguards/sks-secu-clips-for-front-mudguard-stays-per-pair/


20150308_092322.jpg
 
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