Starting over, upgrade advice and what basics do I need?

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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
mini pump, puncture repair kit
(Assume kit includes 2-3 levers - get decent ones: weak ones bend/break.)
And two spare tube (18-25) Presta 40mm.
Tyre pressures: 15 stone plus 10kg bike, on 23s: 110psi on the front and whatever the max (on the side of the tyre) is on the rear. See chart.
 

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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Frankly, I would go to Halfords. If online then a cycle place not some random Amazon.
Definitely don't spend much on a track pump and again better to go to CRC/Wiggle/other for the toolset.
Have a search on here for recommendations. People often ask about whether a toolset is worth it, etc etc.
https://www.cyclechat.net/forums/components-accessories-clothing.75/
Search for 'toolkit' (top RH corner box).
Tubes: Conti Race 28.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/first-ever-puncture.260414/
ETA: Topeak make/market a range of good stuff, from mini-multi-tools (to carry) to under-saddle bags (needs to be big enough for multi-tool, levers (2 or 3), self-adhesive patches (in case of second puncture), tube). Mini-pump in pocket.
 
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AidenL

Active Member
Frankly, I would go to Halfords. If online then a cycle place not some random Amazon.
Definitely don't spend much on a track pump and again better to go to CRC/Wiggle/other for the toolset.
Have a search on here for recommendations. People often ask about whether a toolset is worth it, etc etc.
https://www.cyclechat.net/forums/components-accessories-clothing.75/
Search for 'toolkit' (top RH corner box).
Tubes: Conti Race 28.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/first-ever-puncture.260414/
Thanks for that. Will do!
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
That’s a really nice bike, still pretty modern and probably better than a lot of new offerings, as in lots of cases specs of new bikes have become more basic.

I would just get back on it and enjoy riding it, try not to get sucked in to the whole cycling vortex of newest is best, my 15 year son on his 10 year old 2x9 Ribble is much faster than me on my newer, posher BMC.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Hadn't thought of the age of the tyres - thats a great point, im sure they have wear and tear from cold frosty nights in the shed over the years. A change would be wise then. I pumped them to 100psi, I weigh 15 stone currently.

If a bike has spent years stored in a dark shed, the tyres are likely to be perfectly OK. It's the UV light that destroys them, and nylon reinforced carcases do not deteriorate with damp unlike ones woven with cotton - which haven't been made for 40+ years. One of my bikes is a 1985 Raleigh and it's still running happily on it's original 1985 tyres. They look a bit shabby, but they are not falling to bits.
In your case, I would only be replacing tyres if I couldn't tolerate the ride quality on ultra-hard 23's. The back one will need to be over 100 psi at your weight, the front you might get away with 85-90.
 
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AidenL

Active Member
That’s a really nice bike, still pretty modern and probably better than a lot of new offerings, as in lots of cases specs of new bikes have become more basic.

I would just get back on it and enjoy riding it, try not to get sucked in to the whole cycling vortex of newest is best, my 15 year son on his 10 year old 2x9 Ribble is much faster than me on my newer, posher BMC.

i was getting tempted by shiny new stuff on websites, also started thinking maybe an ebike would make the transition back to cycling easier. It probably would, but no harm in working a bit harder I guess for better fitness.
If a bike has spent years stored in a dark shed, the tyres are likely to be perfectly OK. It's the UV light that destroys them, and nylon reinforced carcases do not deteriorate with damp unlike ones woven with cotton - which haven't been made for 40+ years. One of my bikes is a 1985 Raleigh and it's still running happily on it's original 1985 tyres. They look a bit shabby, but they are not falling to bits.
In your case, I would only be replacing tyres if I couldn't tolerate the ride quality on ultra-hard 23's. The back one will need to be over 100 psi at your weight, the front you might get away with 85-90.

Thats good to know. Some of the roads I’m on have rough enough surfaces. I’m wondering if a bigger tyre will make a massive comfort difference though. I could probably live with what I’ve got.

The cassette gear change from 27 to 34 ish appeals even more to me, it it’s a bigger job. What gear ratios are most common these days? I see 11-34 or 12-34 on a lot of the new bikes I think?
 

jay clock

Massive member
Location
Hampshire UK
Levers - I would never use anything but this https://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-shu...PyoIRsrfeWqNv9hyGlUqHJfQoaa1bKlxoCPPUQAvD_BwE

Track pump - this easily my best ever https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/a...-bQyZ8-KYMR-ofJqwB3KW7U0udo190txoCKG8QAvD_BwE

I buy tubes from Halfords. It doesn't say on the shelf edge but 4 for a tenner. And tough shrink wrap for carrying in saddle bag without damage
 

vickster

Legendary Member
i was getting tempted by shiny new stuff on websites, also started thinking maybe an ebike would make the transition back to cycling easier. It probably would, but no harm in working a bit harder I guess for better fitness.


Thats good to know. Some of the roads I’m on have rough enough surfaces. I’m wondering if a bigger tyre will make a massive comfort difference though. I could probably live with what I’ve got.

The cassette gear change from 27 to 34 ish appeals even more to me, it it’s a bigger job. What gear ratios are most common these days? I see 11-34 or 12-34 on a lot of the new bikes I think?
A 25 or 28mm tyre will make some difference on rough roads but certainly won’t be massive, and you'll be restricted to 25 or possibly 28 by the frame

Don’t bother with an e bike, just get riding what you have (with friendlier bottom gear if needed, 11-32 works fine for me but it’s not v hilly), if you have to walk up hills to start, so be it 👍
 
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