Stick with cantis or go with discs

[stumpy66]

I have a Hewit Cheviot se tourer which I love apart from the brakes, no matter how much I have adjusted them and tried several different pads I'm still not happy with them (tektro).

So i have been toying with the idea of replacing the front fork with a surly disc trucker fork and tpr spyre disc brake. While I was at I was going to get a son 28 or delux Dynamo and BM IQ light with usb charging.

I realise it's a fair outlay but the cantis are just too under powered, what are folks thoughts, anyone done something similar, any opinions on my choices?

 

[PpPete]

I've read of a lot of folks finding tektro cantis ineffective.
Shame really, my original Shimano cantis (BR-AT50 IIRC) from 1987 are just fine on the Dawes Galaxy, with Kool Stop salmon pads I can lock the wheel just as quick as with dual pivots.
I suppose the tektro arms just are not sufficiently rigid.
Still I like the idea of TRP Spyres - it's what I would fit if I ever built a new road bike on a disc capable frame..

On the dyno side.. if you want USB charging, as well as lighting - get the Son 28 not the delux. OR the Shimano DH-3N80 which are a third the price and just as good IME

 

[stumpy66]

Thanks @PpPete , I've tried Koolstop Salmon which made them slightly better.

Need to read some more reviews on dynohubs before I bite the bullet, I see sp hubs are quite a bit cheaper and come in disc versions.

Not sure what size calipers I would need with the forks?

 

[vernon]

Something to consider is Froggleg calipers. They transformed the braking on my two bikes fitted with cantilever brakes.

They're £35 a set.

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/BCPXFRBO/planet-x-frogs-bollox-cantilever-brakeset

 

[slowmotion]

The Tektro brakes on my Secteur were truly dreadful, even with ludicrously expensive Koolstop pads. Miche brakes are far, far better, and not expensive either.

 

[alicat]

Hi Slowmotion

Could you post a link to the Miche brakes 'cos I can't find them.

Thanks in advance.

 

[John the Monkey]

I have a pair of IRD "CAFAM" on the front of my Surly Long Haul Trucker - a nice balance between the lack of power in the CR720 that I started out with, and the overly grabby Tektro Oryx I tried after.

I bought mine direct from the distributor, Fine.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Shimamo CX70's are amazing. Got them up front on the tandem. But I prefer discs meself.

 

[Profpointy]

there was an article in the CTC magazine this week pointing out many of the disadvantages of disc brakes - need stronger fork (as you've realised), fiddly to adjust, heavier - by quite a lot it seems, poorer heat dissipation (not sure about that one) - and for road use the not-grinding-the-rims thing is not such an issue. Given good rim brakes can pitch uou over the bars, they are "good enough" anyway. I have no personal experience of discs - so just repeating an article. It was a measured article, not wholly anti. Good to see the ctc journal not pandering to latest and greatest though.

Anyhow I have Avid Shorty cantis on my Thorn and they work really reallly well. No idea how they compare with the others mentioned. Of course any brakes have to be set up "just right" in any case

 

[Pale Rider]

I agree stopping power is not relevant, although discs do well in the wet - the 'no brakes' moment is just that, a fraction of a second.

It can be easier to remove a wheel with discs, if the rim brakes need to be unhooked to clear the tyre.

I think Brompton commuters would give the magazine an argument about rim wear not being a problem on the road.

On the subject of dynamos, it's a fiddle to disconnect the dyno on my Rose which of course you have to do to remove the front wheel.

Worth checking what the connection is like before buying.

I believe SON make a dyno which has a 'wireless' connection between the hub and the wire which takes the power to the lights.

 

[bikeman66]

there was an article in the CTC magazine this week pointing out many of the disadvantages of disc brakes - need stronger fork (as you've realised), fiddly to adjust, heavier - by quite a lot it seems, poorer heat dissipation (not sure about that one) - and for road use the not-grinding-the-rims thing is not such an issue. Given good rim brakes can pitch uou over the bars, they are "good enough" anyway. I have no personal experience of discs - so just repeating an article. It was a measured article, not wholly anti. Good to see the ctc journal not pandering to latest and greatest though.

Anyhow I have Avid Shorty cantis on my Thorn and they work really reallly well. No idea how they compare with the others mentioned. Of course any brakes have to be set up "just right" in any case

The advantages of a good set of disc brakes is (especially if one is touring) less fatigue in use. Of course a good set of rim brakes can be powerful enough to send you over the bars, but discs will have that potential at a fraction of the physical outlay of the rider. Something to bear in mind if touring hilly or mountainous areas. Also, if touring in more remote areas, discs are less of a problem if you manage to buckle a rim. Once set up, asset of hydraulic discs are pretty much maintenance free, and I would certainly disagree that they are fiddly to set up in the first place too. Heat dissipation isn't as much of an issue as some might think either. I've never experienced brake fade due to heat, and you won't end up pumping the system up if you have an "open" system either.

Like most things, there are pros and cons, and it may come down to personal preference. I wouldn't use anything than hydraulic discs on my MTB now, but on the other hand I'm perfectly happy with the caliper brakes on my roadie.

 

[stumpy66]

Something to consider is Froggleg calipers. They transformed the braking on my two bikes fitted with cantilever brakes.

They're £35 a set.

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/BCPXFRBO/planet-x-frogs-bollox-cantilever-brakeset

Thanks will have a look

 

[stumpy66]

I have a pair of IRD "CAFAM" on the front of my Surly Long Haul Trucker - a nice balance between the lack of power in the CR720 that I started out with, and the overly grabby Tektro Oryx I tried after.

I bought mine direct from the distributor, Fine.

Do you have a link to them, I couldn't see any uk shops selling them. It's the cr720's I have and they are poor

 

[John the Monkey]

Do you have a link to them, I couldn't see any uk shops selling them. It's the cr720's I have and they are poor

Looks like they've changed the design since I bought mine;

http://www.interlocracing.com/brakes-brake-levers/cafam-2-cantilever-brake

They look like a Frog Leg type now.

The originals were very similar to the Paul's Touring;
http://paulcomp.com/shop/components/touring-cantilever/

Anyway, Fine-ADC's contact details are here http://www.fine-adc.com/contact/

FWIW, people on the Surly LHT group like the Avid Shorty Ultimate too, IIRC.

 

[Gravity Aided]

Something to consider is Froggleg calipers. They transformed the braking on my two bikes fitted with cantilever brakes.

They're £35 a set.

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/BCPXFRBO/planet-x-frogs-bollox-cantilever-brakeset

Those look like the old proper brakes as we used to get on touring bicycles. Good to know they are still out there and available. (Planet X sends to the US as well.)