Struggling

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

markyt71

New Member
I've got back in the saddle after many years out of it. I am absolutely loving it but have a problem. The problem is changing gears. No matter who explains it, what I read or how much I try its not sinking in. I need help as its starting to make me re think cycling as a hobby although I love it. Can anybody give me some advice please
 
How are you struggling? You basically want to have the chain in a smaller ring at the front and/or bigger cog at the back to get a lower gear which will help you spin up hills or get started on the flat. Being in too high a gear whilst OK at speed and is preferable then (larger front and/or smaller back) is hard to turn when you are going slow like uphill or starting off. By experimenting you will find the exact gears that suit you.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
You're not alone! The amount of cyclists i see on the roads and I'm mentally willing them to change gear because they're spinning too much or pushing too hard.
Maybe show us a photo of what gears you have?

stermey archer hub gears were the first i had as a kid. easy but limited to only three gears (slow, medium and fast)
friction shifters i found really awkward as a youngster and having ten gears just baffled me, but got accustomed to them eventually.
Indexed gears were a revelation that made changing instinctive, but indexed twist grip i never got to grips with.

show us your set up and we'll be able to offer some proper advice. :smile:
 

icowden

Veteran
Location
Surrey
I've got back in the saddle after many years out of it. I am absolutely loving it but have a problem. The problem is changing gears. No matter who explains it, what I read or how much I try its not sinking in. I need help as its starting to make me re think cycling as a hobby although I love it. Can anybody give me some advice please

My advice is strictly non technical. On the flat you want to be on the largest wheel at the front and whatever gear at the back you are most comfortable cycling in. As you get to an uphill, as soon as you notice that your legs are having to put in more effort you change gear at the back so that your legs are back at your comfortable effort level. If you get to a downhill, you can change gear the other way so that your legs aren't spinning and your speed can increase.

If you are coming to a big hill rather than a short one or a slight incline, then you switch from the big front wheel to the (or a if you have 3 cogs on the front) smaller one and at the same time change up some gears on the rear then drop down the gearing as you go up the hill gently swearing under your breath about hills and why they can't be flatter. Once you get to the top you start changing back the other way. It's a good idea to switch to the smaller front wheel just before you get to a hill rather than on the hill where it's more difficult and you are more likely to lose all your momentum.

It shouldn't be about numbers or which gear when. The idea is to try and keep your legs going in a way that isn't going to knacker them. I believe the pros call it maintaining your cadence.
 

Dec66

A gentlemanly pootler, these days
Location
West Wickham
Might be worth going out for an hour's ride with a experienced cyclist, over an undulating course, whereby he or she can tell you when you should change up, or change down, until it becomes second nature?

Or maybe join up with a local club who have a beginner's group, where they'll happily advise you what to do as you're out riding.

Don't give up, and good luck!
 

Gwylan

Veteran
Location
All at sea⛵
My advice is strictly non technical. On the flat you want to be on the largest wheel at the front and whatever gear at the back you are most comfortable cycling in. As you get to an uphill, as soon as you notice that your legs are having to put in more effort you change gear at the back so that your legs are back at your comfortable effort level. If you get to a downhill, you can change gear the other way so that your legs aren't spinning and your speed can increase.

If you are coming to a big hill rather than a short one or a slight incline, then you switch from the big front wheel to the (or a if you have 3 cogs on the front) smaller one and at the same time change up some gears on the rear then drop down the gearing as you go up the hill gently swearing under your breath about hills and why they can't be flatter. Once you get to the top you start changing back the other way. It's a good idea to switch to the smaller front wheel just before you get to a hill rather than on the hill where it's more difficult and you are more likely to lose all your momentum.

It shouldn't be about numbers or which gear when. The idea is to try and keep your legs going in a way that isn't going to knacker them. I believe the pros call it maintaining your cadence.

Could you explain that to my wife, please.

Just don't mention that I asked you to.
 

Once a Wheeler

…always a wheeler
Keep it simple. First find your normal gear. This is what I call my 'kilometre eater'. On an easy day in the English lowlands I can easily go 100km in this gear and never change out of it. For me it is 5.64 metres which means for every revolution of the pedal the bike goes forward 5.64 metres. On 700c or 27" wheels this is obtained with a 42 tooth front chainwheel and a 16 tooth rear sprocket. Other combinations such as 34 x13 or 48 x 18 give a very similar gear. Most riders I know have their normal gear between 5.5 and 5.8 metres. Set this up and go for a long ride of 20km+ without ever changing gear. Walk up hills if you need to, freewheel down if you can't keep up the cadence. You will have learnt what normal riding feels like.

Next time out, tackle a hill and allow yourself one gear change to the next lower gear, then back to normal.
On the following ride, allow yourself an additonal change to the next higher gear as well, then back to nomal.
Stick with 3 speeds for a couple of rides. Then allow yourself the full gammut; but keep returning to your normal.
By then, gears will no longer be a problem but an everlasting solution, one of humanity's great inventions: but the key is 'know your normal'.
 
OP
OP
markyt71

markyt71

New Member
Is yur probloem one of deciding which gear to use, or are you actually finding it difficult to change between gears?

Thanks so much for your reply. To be honest both. I'm struggling to understand the complete set up.
It sounds so stupid but it's the levers. Remembering which side does what. It's very embarrassing to be honest but if people on here carnt help then nobody can
 

Attachments

  • 20231012_181512.jpg
    20231012_181512.jpg
    125.8 KB · Views: 55
  • 20231012_181522.jpg
    20231012_181522.jpg
    113.9 KB · Views: 55
  • 20231012_181750.jpg
    20231012_181750.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 54
Thanks so much for your reply. To be honest both. I'm struggling to understand the complete set up.
It sounds so stupid but it's the levers. Remembering which side does what. It's very embarrassing to be honest but if people on here carnt help then nobody can

The left shifter changes the big cog at the front. You push the paddle behind the left shifter to change it down and push the whole shifter to shift up to the big ring. Down to the small ring is usually easier for hills. Generally though you don't need to shift the front rings often unless its a big hill or you are really struggling for a low gear. I'd push the whole left lever up to the big ring and leave it there and concentrate on the rear/ right shifter. The right/ rear shifter works the exact opposite, pushing the paddle moves the chain down to a smaller sprocket, making it harder up hill and starting. Pushing the whole lever moves the chain up the rear cassette making it easier up hill/ starting.
 
Last edited:

icowden

Veteran
Location
Surrey
Thanks so much for your reply. To be honest both. I'm struggling to understand the complete set up.
It sounds so stupid but it's the levers. Remembering which side does what. It's very embarrassing to be honest but if people on here carnt help then nobody can
You'll get there. As @HLaB said. Your right hand is the one you will use most of the time to go up and down. When you see a hill push both of the little flaps in all the way and you'll change to the small wheel at the front and up two gears on the right which makes the least jarring change (well for me anyway). Then you just start using the right hand again. Once you are at the top you push your left hand all the way in to get the chain back on the big cog at the front and start your right hand clicking away to get to the right place again.
 
Top Bottom