Sturmey Archer 3 speed reverts to 3rd gear...?

[chawri]

Hello all, new member here, and of course I'm in need of help. The administrator suggestion of this section doesn't make make perfect sense to me, but...
50 year old (graduation present) Chain Bike Corporation "Starjet" of mine is back in my possession after being passed around the family generations. My first inclination was a d.i.y. resto-mod, but immediately I realized a pro shop deep dive was going to be necessary to get the "wheels turning" so to speak, not literally. Spoke work, modern tires, and new cables was my intent. Well...
Two months and $400 later, she's back and riding well except for that title line. A technician with 30 years of experience has tweaked and adjusted to no end, but if I don't hold the lever it will up shift itself to third. He says it's the lever mechanism's apparent lack of detents working properly. They don't "auction site supply" parts and no modern replacement can be found.
Are the vintage parts I can find and buy likely to work? I know that this is a loaded question, but the configurations are the same. Any differences appear to be cosmetic with maybe slight cable exit angle variation.
What would experienced souls here do?

Thanks for all your input and patience, Charlie

 

[FrankCrank]

These type of hubs are known to be very robust, and unlikely to give problems unless severely abused. As alluded to, the shifter is the likely suspect, and depending on where you live are easy to come by. There are trigger shifters, twist shifters, thumb shifters and bar-end shifters available for 3-speed hubs, and are compatible with each other. You do need the correct cable nipple however, so maybe order a new cable to suit whilst you're at it. Anyways, hope you get it sorted

 

[EltonFrog]

It might not be the shifter at all. You may just need to adjust the toggle chain that goes into the hub. Look on YouTube for Sturmey Archer toggle chain adjustment.

If it is the lever there will be some for sale on eBay.

 

[raleighnut]

Likely to be gummed up with old grease, I'd suggest 'flooding it out' with WD40/Plusgas or the like

 

[EltonFrog]

Likely to be gummed up with old grease, I'd suggest 'flooding it out' with WD40/Plusgas or the like

Could be that and / or pawls seized.

 

[raleighnut]

Could be that and / or pawls seized.

In which case flooding it with plenty of penetrating oil and working the shifter will have the same effect, I don't mean just doing it once but keep squirting it in there and working it over the range of movement the wipe the outside down and do it again.................and again

 

[EltonFrog]

In which case flooding it with plenty of penetrating oil and working the shifter will have the same effect, I don't mean just doing it once but keep squirting it in there and working it over the range of movement the wipe the outside down and do it again.................and again

Problem with that is that it dissolves the grease in the bearings don’t it?

 

[oldwheels]

I was once advised to fill the hub as far a possible with WD40 and spin the wheel every day for a week and working the shifter as well. The wheel has to be upright of course. After a week lean the wheel so that the WD40 drains out and then lubricate normally.
Worked for me but it is at your own risk.

 

[Chris S]

A technician with 30 years of experience has tweaked and adjusted to no end, but if I don't hold the lever it will up shift itself to third. He says it's the lever mechanism's apparent lack of detents working properly.

I'd agree with that. The spring in the hub will push it into third gear unless it's compressed by the shifter mechanism.

I assume you are in the US and have a 3-speed AW hub? There are plenty of trigger shifters on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126006982789

 

[raleighnut]

Problem with that is that it dissolves the grease in the bearings don’t it?

There are no bearings in an SA 3 speed shifter AFAIK, there are 'bushes' and 2 plates that slide against each other but basically it is nothing like a modern shifter but then I'm sure it was designed in the 1930's

 

[raleighnut]

I was once advised to fill the hub as far a possible with WD40 and spin the wheel every day for a week and working the shifter as well. The wheel has to be upright of course. After a week lean the wheel so that the WD40 drains out and then lubricate normally.
Worked for me but it is at your own risk.

3 in 1 works better and most SA hubs have a fill/drain plug with a little cap.

 

[EltonFrog]

There are no bearings in an SA 3 speed shifter AFAIK, there are 'bushes' and 2 plates that slide against each other but basically it is nothing like a modern shifter but then I'm sure it was designed in the 1930's

Apologies, I wasn’t referring to the shifter, t thought you were referring to the hub. I realise now that I misread your post.

 

[raleighnut]

Apologies, I wasn’t referring to the shifter, t thought you were referring to the hub. I realise now that I misread your post.

That's OK

My own 3 speed Raleigh only dates from 1986 but it had sat in a back garden for years so the wheelrims were totally rotted through, a quick test with a front wheel showed that 700c rims would fit if I used shorter reach brakes (which I had in my workshop shed) so those horrible bent metal brake calipers went in the bin, likewise the cottered steel crank (yep cotterpins in the mid 80's) and I got my wheelbuilder John of Bob Warner Cycles to lace me some nice aluminium rims onto the rear hub and a Shimano 'dynohub' I had kicking about

 

[oldwheels]

3 in 1 works better and most SA hubs have a fill/drain plug with a little cap.

Never tried 3 in 1. The older hubs had a fill plug with a little cap but the newer ones you have to top up by lying the wheel on one side and putting oil in through the hollow axle. Obviously take out the control rod first.
No idea when this change took place but I have one lying in a box with no fill hole. ( I should really go and have a look but since I never use them nowadays this sits unloved).

 

[raleighnut]

Never tried 3 in 1. The older hubs had a fill plug with a little cap but the newer ones you have to top up by lying the wheel on one side and putting oil in through the hollow axle. Obviously take out the control rod first.
No idea when this change took place but I have one lying in a box with no fill hole. ( I should really go and have a look but since I never use them nowadays this sits unloved).

Like I posted my 3 speed dates from 1986 and that still has a fill port with cap, knowing Raleigh/Sturmey Archer it is possible they made a cheaper version as they did with Brooks Saddles (another Raleigh owned company) I know this cos I was given a B5n*........Nowadays they are a very rare saddle as most broke but then they date from the mid 60's.

* supposedly made from inferior Leather after they'd cut the 'good stuff' out to make the quality saddles although size wise it's my 2nd or 3rd favourite after my B17n (narrow) and possibly my Swallow limited edition titanium.