Surly Chain tensioner

[biggs682]

oh dear not a good day then

 

[GrumpyGregry]

chain wrap can mean a slip or jump when you push donw on the pedals

'chain suck' surely?

 

[GrumpyGregry]

it's the amount of the sprocket and chainring the chain engages with, so if you have a tensioner that pushes the chain up then more teeth will be in use than with one that pushes the chain down. Makes a far greater difference at the back than the front.

Also cog/ring selection makes a difference, 48x18 gives roughly the same gear as 34x13, but clearly more teeth are engaged with the chain using 48x18. Offroad singlespeeders may go with the smaller combo to gain extra ground clearance.

Wear is also a serious consideration with small rear cogs off road. I've destroyed a 14T in three months. 18T similar level of use still going stong.

 

[Basil.B]

Fitted new spring today. went for a test ride, seems ok.
Fingers crossed!

 

[Basil.B]

Had to buy a new Surly chain tensioner in the end.
Fitted it this afternoon.

 

[Basil.B]

Even with my new chain tensioner, the chain still jumped, especially going up hills.
Discovered that the cause was the new 1/8 chain I had fitted a few weeks ago.
Replaced it with my old 3/32 chain, problem solved at last!

 

[biggs682]

oh dear , never mind

 

[al-fresco]

Even with my new chain tensioner, the chain still jumped, especially going up hills.
Discovered that the cause was the new 1/8 chain I had fitted a few weeks ago.
Replaced it with my old 3/32 chain, problem solved at last!

Sounds familiar. I've recently converted a bike where the chain seemed to jump at the slightest incline. Tried a new tensioner, a new chain and finally a new chainwheel and crank. Things improved at each stage until it only did it on very steep gradients. Took it to my LBS who just said 'That's weird!' but couldn't offer any suggestions. After 50 miles or so it's stopped doing it altogether - it's fine now. I think sometimes things just take a little time to settle in...