Surly Cross-Check Bike Build

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MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Folks, posted this on YACF as well, just scrounging info again and displaying my general ignorance, as usual all help grovellingly appreciated:-

Folks, following the advice received I've ordered the Surly frame in the 60cm size, now I just need to add all the other bits. I'm a big guy who's heavy on the pedals and wheels(spoke repair again tomorrow!!!), currently doing about 140miles a week and it's rising, full commute will be 200 per week. So super lightweight is very much secondary to longer lasting/robust, I'll have a seond bike for non-commuting stuff. Hoping I can get some feedback from those that have dealt with this frame. I know it's a long post, just didn't want to post up lot's of different threads:-

Front Wheel - I want to get this with Mavic A719 rims in black to match the rear wheel. I'm musing about whether I want a dynamo hub and, if so, should I go for the Schmidt. I have seen complete wheels, built around the shimano NX32 QR dyno hub, for about £90. Then where to get wheel built?

Frame Protection - I've seen reference to the idea that the inside of the frame should be sealed/protected before build. What does this involve and who does it?

Brakes - I have these brakes - Merlin Cycles - - - it's a Deore V brake kit, will they fit the Surly ok?

Bottom Bracket - needs a 68mm English, threaded 1.37x24t???, the chainline from the Sram hub should be 48.9mm, according to their specs. I really seem to get lost when I start looking at BB's, what specs should I be aiming at?

Cranks/Chainring - I get that they need to match the BB and the chainline but then I'm lost. Do you buy a single specific set, or any old ones and remove/re-space chainrings?

Chain - what sort do I need, size to chainring/cog? powerlink/Sram?

Seatpost - need a 27.2mm seatpost, do I need to go steel, or should I go alu or carbon?

Thinks that's it, I'm good with the rest, appreciate the help....thanks....Al
 
Can't help I'm afraid, mainly as I was about to ask some similar questions.
Took delivery yesterday of an On One Pompino frame and an Alfine hub. Should end up with something similar to you when its (eventually) built up.
 
OP
OP
MacB

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
ok Pie, you and me, between us, we should be able to pump these folks for some decent info! Problem is some of the greater minds lurk on areas other than here, due to the 'already done all that' syndrome. Just a case of prising them out, I'll be adding this thread to my sig as a feeble kick start attempt.
 
You've got a wheel built up with the SRAM internal gears if I remember rightly? So we should end up with something similar when built up.
Seconded on the 'lost when it comes BB' This should give me the correct chainline for the hub as its all alfine stuff and 45t looks about right the Sheldon Brown gear calculator thing. I used the nexus option, but alfine ratios are the same. Only question is, will it work on the frame as On One site says 48-50mm so don't know if there is a chainstay clearance issue.

I'm intending to go for drop bars, the alfine shifter is for flat bars. Something else for me to think about.

So not the easiest combo for my first build and will be built over time, as funds are available. Can't see it being the only one being built though due to the On One offer 'buy the hub and fork - get the frame free'. So someone, somewhere must be doing it.
My brain hurts at the moment.
 

hubgearfreak

Über Member
MacBludgeon said:
Front Wheel - Then where to get wheel built?

wheel building is no black art. i beleive that if you're half intelligent, can read, know anti clockwise from clockwise and have the patience, you can make your own wheels. check out sheldon, and there's threads on every cycling forum about it too. the pride you'll have in riding around on your own wheels is hard to beat. the other option of course is where you had the back wheel built. i seem to remember you saying you were happy with their work & price? however, if you don't have the time or confidence, speak to spa cycles.

MacBludgeon said:
Frame Protection

buy some waxoyl, dinitrol or similar and follow the instructions on the can

MacBludgeon said:
V brake kit, will they fit the Surly ok?

yes

MacBludgeon said:
Bottom Bracket - needs a 68mm English, threaded 1.37x24t???, the chainline from the Sram hub should be 48.9mm, according to their specs. I really seem to get lost when I start looking at BB's, what specs should I be aiming at?

Cranks/Chainring - I get that they need to match the BB and the chainline but then I'm lost. Do you buy a single specific set, or any old ones and remove/re-space chainrings?

this is perhaps the most complicated bit. if you've a good LBS, then go there and buy a chainset. make it so that one chainwheel fits perfectly (see below about where you want to fit it. and pick the one that's perhaps in the order of 39-48 teeth*) you can do this by reducing in length the chainset bolts that came with it, or buy single chainwheel bolts from the internet. you'll now have a single chainwheel. if you've used a road double, the outside will be at 46mm, if a mtb triple, the middle will be at 47.5mm. now, with the help of your competant and helpful LBS, select a BB that gets the chainset in the right place. i know from experience of two bikes that the outside of a road double with the standard BB is near perfect for an i-motion-9. sorry i can't help further with the alfine, but with sheldon brown, a good LBS, and some sense you'll get there.

*ofcourse, you've both played with Sheldon's gear calculator? this will help you select the right chainwheel. i'd go for something like 63"-69" as your middle gear/direct drive. whether the shimano hub has a direct drive in the middle i don't know?

the more bling route (although considerably more expensive) is to speak to a company such as http://www.hubjub.co.uk/ who deal with fixed & single speeds exclusively.

MacBludgeon said:
Chain - what sort do I need, size to chainring/cog? powerlink/Sram?

i'll be guessing that you've now got 3/32 chainwheel & sprockets, so any chain to match. if you've been to your LBS for the chainline problem, they'll have already had to have sold you one to help with the finding of the perfect chainline.

MacBludgeon said:
Seatpost - need a 27.2mm seatpost, do I need to go steel, or should I go alu or carbon?

whatever you want to spend. steel is cheap and won't break. the others will be more money, more easily broken, but lighter.

good luck to the pair of you hubgearfreaks:thumbsup:
 
I mailed On One about cranks/BB reply was "We've not trie one with an Alfine chainset yet - theOn-One track cranks with external bearing work fine."
Having just had a look at them, they are very shiney. 48t chainring will shift the ratios up a bit higher than I was aiming for, but I could always use a bigger cog to get around it.
Mouse poised above the 'buy' button :biggrin:
 
OP
OP
MacB

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Thanks HGF, was going to go with crowd that did my rear wheel but they don't do the hubs, and seems a faff to buy hub then send to them, though may do that yet.

Waxoyl/Dinitrol - ok I can do that ....thanks

V-brakes - yes - thought so but just had sudden attack of paranoia, no faith in myself at times:biggrin:

Outside of road double with standard BB, when you say standard, I'm fine with sizing it was the length of axle I was concerned on, do you mean standard in this respect as well? - apart from that, this sound just the ticket, will consult with LBS, they'll be doing final build anyway. Gear calculator, I've spent hours on it, that's what started all this. When I finally realised just how few gears, but additional maintenance, a '27 gear' bike was giving me. I'm looking at starting with a 21t cog and a 48t chain ring which will give me a gear range of 33.7 to 114.5 inches, with direct drive at 62.1. I'll then see how I proceed strength, and fitness, wise and either decrease the cog, or increase the chainring, size as required. I'm already able to do my entire commute in just the middle ring and mainly within a 3 gear range. So that's about 44 to 82 inches over 7 gears, in total that I use. The IM9 will give me 5 gears covering that range with an additional 2 at each end.

chain - I'll get the LBS to sort right size but is there a superior make that'll stand up better to my high mileage commute?

seatpost - I think I'll see how much cash I have left at the end, but think steel, for solidity, is looking the current favourite.

thanks again HGF, much appreciated as usual, oh yeah, I'm still going to build a bike around that old Dawes frame, I've got it stripped down ready now. The LBS removed the BB for me as I didn't have the tools and mechanic commented that it was a nice frame, thanks for the headsup on that e-bay listing. For this one I'm thinking a 5 gear hub or something like a 7/8 gear rear derailer only. Fancy this as my pub/emergency backup bike, the Surly will be the main commuter and the Giant will become my stripped down weekend/fair weather tool.

I think I'm becoming a bike obessive:ohmy:
 

hubgearfreak

Über Member
MacBludgeon said:
I'm still going to build a bike around that old Dawes frame - For this one I'm thinking a 5 gear hub or something like a 7/8 gear rear derailer only. Fancy this as my pub/emergency backup bike

well, if you're going to have a cheap and reliable pub bike, then the SA AW 3 speed has got to be the prime candidate. cheap, reliable & beautiful;)
check out ebay, you'll see a full set of hub, shifter & cables turn up for £20 sooner or later. good luck:becool:
 

NickM

Veteran
MacBludgeon said:
I think I'm becoming a bike obessive:ohmy:

It's a benign affliction, as I know from experience ;)

I have had many alloy seatpins, and never broken one. Steel seatpins are rare, probably because they are heavy. I would get an alloy one. Inexpensive ones are fine.

By the way, this Surly... what sort of handlebars will it have?
 
U

User482

Guest
You didn't say if you're using flat or drop bars. If you're using drop bars with STI levers, they won't work with V-brakes. You'll need either a "travel agent" adjuster or use old school wide-profile cantilevers.
 
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