tech help

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jonny jeez

jonny jeez

Legendary Member
What were you working on just prior to stuffing them up and what was the reason for you trying to adjust the gears?
The cables had stretched and on a ride over crystal palace on wednesday I couldnt find the lowest gear...it just bounced about a lot.

I wasn't fettling with anything prior to attacking this though...it was a dedicated mission.

one tiny point though.

Inside the adjuster barrel was a tiny cylindrical washer/grommet, it came loose when I adjusted the barrel fully in (the barrel kind of pushed it out) from the retainer bolt side of the barrel (ip stream from the cable) and is now hanging around between the barrel and the bolt... hanging on the cable.

I cant see if it fits into the barrel end of the bracket or the cable/bolt end.
 

Moodyman

Legendary Member
I found gear indexing the most frustrating bike maintenance activity. It was only when I needed a replacement rear mech for one of my bikes and I was playing about with the mech in my hand that I understood how mechs work and their relationship with the shifter and cable tension.

Sometimes you've just got to take everything apart and and try and work out how things fit together.
 
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jonny jeez

jonny jeez

Legendary Member
I found gear indexing the most frustrating bike maintenance activity. It was only when I needed a replacement rear mech for one of my bikes and I was playing about with the mech in my hand that I understood how mechs work and their relationship with the shifter and cable tension.

Sometimes you've just got to take everything apart and and try and work out how things fit together.

Yep, this is the main reason I want to solve this myself. Mechs (and indexing) are one of "those" jobs that I've avoided due to just this sort of thing, but through spending time fettling...and admittedly stuffing it up, I do now understand them a lot more. and through a process of elimination I think the cable is the issue. The mech moves under finger and thumb pressure when the cable is detached and springs back to the small sprocket perfectly, as soon as the cable is attached it will climb up the cassette but wont drop back down.
Frayed cable, even slightly? Change it asap.
Yep, I agree, I slipped with a grip when pulling the cable and frayed the end, but once frayed it tends to just unwind and i guess will thicken the cable causing the inner and outer to bind.

one of the reasons i stopped last night was because i didnt like the idea of a frayed cable (admittedly from an aesthetic rather than practical view) and had resigned myself to purchasing a new one today before moving on, plus I need some of those handy cable nipples.

Second instalment will begin tonight.

thanks for all the late night support guys...Cyclechat's the best!
 

Andrew_P

In between here and there
I spent ££'s trying to sort mine out even a new RD, I found that I had a bent rear hanger, popped it on and they were working fine. I think someone knocked the bike over without telling me (namely one of my kids) and it bent the hanger. Had they told me I wouldn't have sufferd the jumping poorly indexed gears for so long
 

BentMikey

Rider of Seolferwulf
Location
South London
Don't just buy any cables, Jonny, get some Gore ride-on cables and change all four. Yeah, they cost a fortune, but you'll love how slick and smooth they are, and they'll last a very long time indeed. They are the dog's dangly bits, and you'll notice as big a difference in your shifting and braking as you did going from a hybrid to a road bike.
 
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jonny jeez

jonny jeez

Legendary Member
New cables - you'd be surprised at the difference. When was the last time you changed them ?
Bike was new last October, probably ridden around 5-7k miles on it since then
 
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jonny jeez

jonny jeez

Legendary Member
Don't just buy any cables, Jonny, get some Gore ride-on cables and change all four. Yeah, they cost a fortune, but you'll love how slick and smooth they are, and they'll last a very long time indeed. They are the dog's dangly bits, and you'll notice as big a difference in your shifting and braking as you did going from a hybrid to a road bike.
I am tempted but I want to get a regular one for now to see if this is actually the problem. I can justify spending £100 on all 4 cables as they are still relatively new and giving me no trouble. When I do swap them all out, I'll go for the ride on's
 
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jonny jeez

jonny jeez

Legendary Member
5-7k miles, commuting, gear cables, road crap = dirty and sticky.
True, thing is though, the bike is running sweet right now, I just couldn't get top gear (or bottom i never know which) so wanted to tighten the barrel as I felt the cable had probably just stretched. Usually a 5 min job but I stuffed it up by slipping with a grip and fraying my cable when I decided to start from scratch and undo the cable retainer bolt.

Plus don't I have to unwind my bar tape and replace that if i replace the cable outers too, I'm trying to visualise how the cables run now?

May buy a cable puller today though, to save fraying future cables
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
If you can change down (up the cassette) OK but not change up (down to the smaller sprockets on the cassette then replacement cables are very probably needed. If you don't want to strip the bar tape, leave that outer, just change the one down by the mech and the inner.

Agreed, finger tight is enough and make sure all adjusters are fully in first to give you max tweaking potential.
And this....

Cable pullers look as if they are more useful for brakes - but I've gotten away with not owning one for a long time.
 
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