My Italian baking teacher was recently in Italy and posted a picture of some typical Neopolitan sweet pastries called biscotti all'amarene. Initially developed as a way of using up leftovers, they are sweet pastry wrapped around a sponge cake centre, which is mixed with black cherry jam. The whole lot is topped with royal icing. I knew I had to try it!
I found
this recipe (in Italian but I used a digital translator) and had a go. It involves:
- make a 'pan di Spagna' sponge (a fat-free sponge like a genoise) - this is done the day before to give time to cool and dry
- make a sweet crust pastry - the method in the recipe is unlike any I have done before for pastry, going against all accepted wisdom of pastry making (the butter and sugar are creamed first, then a load of eggs added, then the flour)
- make the filling by crumbling the cake and adding cocoa, black cherry jam and an egg yolk to make a kind of cakey paste - shape to an oval log
- roll out the pastry, place the filling log on it and wrap
- make the icing with egg whites and icing sugar, top the wrapped log
- decorate with strained black cherry jam
- cut into slices and bake
The results are a bit messy (especially compared to the recipe pictures!) but very tasty. Quite a big lump to eat, but I could see it as a good mid-afternoon treat in a cafe with an espresso, to see you through to a late evening dinner.
I was left with a reasonable amount of pastry and icing so I knocked up some kind of cookies using blobs of black cherry and strawberry jam (and a few plain).
A good learning experience; the pan di Spagna, the creaming method for pastry etc. I might modify them in future - perhaps add some actual black cherries to the mix, perhaps kirsch-soaked ones, and I would handle the decoration differently. Maybe make them a little smaller too!