The Bassist and Guitarist thread

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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
So the question is, is leaving no access to the truss nut unless the neck is removed, a completely daft idea?
Its not ideal, but there are plenty of guitars and basses out there that do just this, including some Fenders. Once its set up and everything is settled down then it should be fine if you stick to the same gauge and type of strings and are careful with storage.
 

Oldhippy

Cynical idealist
When Gibson bought Steinburger in the 90's the electric double bass we had in the showroom was interesting.
 
it is thick! and heavy!

I'm chuffed that one of the blocks (4th from left) runs full length so it'll have a single solid block from the saddle to the neck pocket :okay:

It'll be 65mm (maybe a tad less) including the top... which is about the same as those acoustic telecasters i reckon

View attachment 573225

There is one thing i wanted to ask you @DCBassman ...the truss nut is at the body side of the neck and I don't want to cut an access slot in the soundboard as it'll look naff. It'll be a faff having to remove the neck should I need to adjust the truss (possibly having to remove, adjust and refit several times before it's right)... So the question is, is leaving no access to the truss nut unless the neck is removed, a completely daft idea?
Its not ideal, but there are plenty of guitars and basses out there that do just this, including some Fenders. Once its set up and everything is settled down then it should be fine if you stick to the same gauge and type of strings and are careful with storage.
As @Drago said, plenty leave it hidden away. I'd have a slot, personally, unless the adjuster is the old slotted type. If a hex head, I'd go for a slot.
Just my personal thing, though.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
As @Drago said, plenty leave it hidden away. I'd have a slot, personally, unless the adjuster is the old slotted type. If a hex head, I'd go for a slot.
Just my personal thing, though.
I think I'm gonna go for no slot... I'll always be looking at the slot but how often would i use it? (I've not touched the truss on my electric in the 15 years I've owned it) ...saying that, I know it'll need some initial fettling as the neck I've got hasn't held strings for 30 years.

In other news...

More toys arrived today
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I'm somewhat ignorant when it comes to the electrics... but in recent days I've looked at loads of wiring diagrams and am confident I'll be able to put it all together. It was nice of the guy from Warman to throw in three capacitors and a bit of an explanation regarding the values, although I've no idea what 'PRS' is. But if the .47 is common and the .66 cuts a lot of treble, then I'm guessing the .33 will be quite trebly??? As a listener, I do like the fat bass sound which leans me towards the .66 ...but it's probably more sensible to just put in the common one.

The tone pot is 500K linear... not sure if that makes any difference to capacitor choice. Any advice would be appreciated :smile:
 
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rogerzilla

Legendary Member
I remember wiring my Warmoth Telecaster (an actual Fender one would have been cheaper!) years ago. A solder gun is what you really need for the pots - even a 40W iron wasn't really fast enough for the heat soak.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
I believe it's the reason the Stratocaster has horns.
I've heard that but i've also heard that the design had the twin cutaways to give better access to the lower frets and that combined with the 'comfort' carves led to the opposite problem of neck rise so they had to add that ugly dod of wood to the headstock to get it to balance.
 
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