The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 185, Saturday March 14, 2020, Balneario Puesta Del Sol to Laguna Larga 34km, Total KM 6763

Min meters 1973, Max Meters 2926
Total Climb 1281 Total Descent 496


It is really difficult to describe just how influential the heat is here. A little while ago I pulled in to a nicely shaded spot and rested up. I read a chapter of my book and started to head off. As I was leaving Gizmo was reading 23C. For about twenty minutes I watched the temperature rise to 43C!! That 20C difference is a fine summer's day in Ireland!!

I was very tired again last night and slept right through the dawn. When I crawled out it was like another world! A bright blue sky, a wispy wind and a beaming sun! Hard to believe last night occurred at all!

I got up and started making coffee, taking my gear out of the tent airing them. I unpegged the tent and moved it to better dry it out. Water was between the footprint and floor so a little drying was necessary. The power of the sun is amazing!!

There was other activity in the park, people raking leaves and generally getting ready to open.

I took my time packing up, waiting for the owner to show up to pay. When she did she seemed a wee bit insulted that I wasn't staying, asking did I not like the place! I explained as best I can that I needed to keep moving. Mind you, a sunny day at the pool was a very attractive option!

Today was my backroad day! I am sick of the cuota. The countryside is spectacular but I am too far removed from it. I was going to be doing a lot of climbing too. Setting off I was in fine spirits! I'd learned the power of the storms here (rainy season is approaching) in relative comfort. I was ditching the cuota and getting back to small town Mexico. My first road had friendly folk and dogs laying in the middle of the road! Can't be too much traffic! The first village is about 20km away. Then I turned the corner and found this:

So much for my backroad day. 20km of that could kill me! I had two liters of water and a little food. I turned around and rejoined the cuota - there is no other option. I'll be able to get off after about 25km and then the backroad fun can begin!

I was finding the going very tough. The shoulder was really rough, full of potholes and leftover tarmac creating mini mountain ranges. I kept checking the wheels for flats and my brakes to make sure nothing was pulling on the cables - it was that tough. In the end, I pulled in and tried the two trailer panniers on my front rack. Steering was a little heavy at first but I got used to it. Perhaps it's just the placebo effect but I thought the climbing was a little easier.

When my turnoff came from the cuota I was glad. I had about 30km to go and some serious climbing but at least I'd be on a road! There was a small cluster of businesses including an Oxxo at the junction I needed. The sun was blasting down so I thought this would be a good time for a rest and a last stock up before the mountains.

I sat down in the shade and took out my Kindle. A boy and a girl selling fruit came over to investigate the bike. I smiled and said Hola. The girl scampered off but the boy stayed, staring intently at the bike or me. He wouldn't engage in any conversation just stared sullenly.

A little later a couple of big buses pulled in and a string of students hit the Oxxo. Once outside the girls came over, all full of questions. I was happy to try and oblige. The boys, however, stayed back. Mazi became a star of many photos! They were all on their way to an overnight camping trip. God help the poor teachers trying to control that lot!

My other innovation was to use my camelbak. I filled it up as best I could with cold water and set off to climb some mountains.

At first it was straightforward enough but the deeper I went the steeper it became. In the end, there was nothing for it but get off and push. I didn't have a specific destination in mind, I knew there were several thermal bath places up in the mountains and some allowed camping.

The only complication was the sky - becoming darker and the sound of distant thunder. This was like the Appalachians - steep climbs and lots of sharp s-bends. The only difference was the heat! I was happy enough that when a van stopped and offered me a tow and then a lift I declined gratefully.

I came to the first of the camping options, or at least a sign for it (10 mins down a side road) but it was in the area of a huge plant that I presume is harvesting the thermal energy. There were many vents releasing a foul smelling gas so I continued on.

The thunder came closer and then the rain started. I stopped to throw on a rain jacket but the rain soon stopped - to be replaced by hailstones!! By now the worst of the climbing was behind me so I was back on the bike cooling down rapidly. I was delighted to see another thermal bath place with a big sign clearly showing camping! I pulled in and presented myself in the office, a wet, bedraggled, shivering specimen of manhood. I was denied! No camping! I clarified that it was just a tent I had, I needed very little space but the response was not what I have come to expect from Mexico - go down the road. So I did, glaring at the tent sign as I cycled past. Soon I was descending again and getting very cold. I passed a car wreck - the road turned left the car went straight. Everybody was ok, apart from a bit shocked. I came to another thermal bath but they had no space for camping. Finally, I came to one, paid my entrance and set off looking for a spot. It was still raining so I stopped to shelter for a while chatting to a lovely couple and their cute daughter. After a while of shivering I decided the best thing to do was to have some dinner, so out with the Trangia and I heated up some frijoles, supplemented them with tamales from a mobile vendor and waited for the rain to stop.

This is a proper campground and thermal baths around a lake. There are no marked pitches, just set up wherever. In many places that would lead to chaos, but this is Mexico!

The rain stopped and I grabbed my chance to set up the tent. I went to the bathroom and got ready for bed - all before 8pm! The thunder returned, then the rain then the lightning! Mexico is pulling out all the stops!

I had gone from overheating to shivering in the space of a day. I also realised that I've become a bit complacent. I hadn't fastened one of my panniers properly and some rain had seeped in. Ortliebs are only waterproof when you fasten them correctly!


Once stripped out of my wet clothes and wrapped in my sleeping bag I was soon warm again. There was a lot of noise from other campers, mainly from the children and the parents trying to get them to bed! I consider that nice noise and I wasn't bothered in the least. There's a lovely comfortable vibe in the area. Despite the chaos of the pitches everyone seems respectful of the others.

I wrote up a bit of this travelogue, read a bit of my book and quickly fell asleep.


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 186 Sunday, March 15, 2020 Laguna Larga Rest day 0km, Total KM 6763

I was asleep early last night, the background noise of people relaxing and enjoying themselves proving no hindrance at all. I slept fitfully, though, having several vivid dreams. Not disturbing ones, just ones that make you think.

Again, the sun was well up when I dragged myself out of my warm cocoon. I'm close to 3000 meters high - it gets cold at night. I made some coffee and watched the world around me coming to life. The family beside me had a small fire used to make burritos for breakfast. The next family over had a waist high grill (wood fired) for cooking on as well as a large fire for the sake of it, I suppose. I took my flask of coffee down to the shore and enjoyed the sunlight gently bathing me. There are worse ways to spend a Sunday morning.

It seemed like the world and its uncle were wandering around the lake. There are lots and lots of tents, almost all, cheap, freestanding dome tents bought from Walmart. These are all single skin - they have no inner. They must be hell in the rain or with condensation. I can see one "family" sized tent as would be common in Europe. Families will have two, three or four of the small two person tents rather than one big one. They have lots of cooking gear though - not a stove in sight! It's all fires, or wood burning grills. The aromas can be wonderfully teasing!

Sitting in the sun without a proper destination in mind I decided to take a day, watch the locals at play and plot a bit of a route for the next while. I've decided against the gulf of Mexico route - I think it will be too hot and too busy. Instead I'm heading south through the mountains, hopefully off the main roads and away from the city. I'll pull away towards Puebla and then roll down to Oaxca. It'll mean a lot of climbing, but hopefully on quieter roads, more options to camp and the possibility of hitting the coast again. I'll probably travel shorter distances but that's not such a bad thing - the Coronavirus is shutting down borders further south. Frankly, it's a bit frustrating to be doing this again. I'd spent a good bit of time in Morelia researching the next stage and had to bin it.

With that in mind I kicked back and relaxed. Tried a little Spanish homework. Truthfully I'm struggling with the Spanish. I can get by, but the chatting to people, the connections are suffering.

It's interesting to watch the people. There are a lot of people here, some walking around at 10am swigging out of a beer - but not a hint of antisocial behaviour. People are pulling and dragging little wheelie suitcases around. Food and family gatherings are the main thing. You can see where a row of maybe ten tents is actually all one family from grandparents down to little tots. The only activity on the lake itself is boating - pedal boats or row boats. Any other water activity takes place in the thermal pool which is packed. I was sorely tempted to have a dip, but decided that discretion might be the best option in the current pandemic climate.

I've no internet connectivity here but yesterday Facebook was flooded with all kinds of "information" about the Coronavirus - a lot of it seemingly dramatic, incredible and wrong. Still proving to be my best source of information is the Australian travel service - their current advice is to avoid any non-essential travel abroad. They point out, in a rather dry manner, that while you may presently be able to enter a country you may not be able to leave! For some strange reason "Hotel California" is stuck in my head!

For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 187 Monday, March 16 2020, Laguna Larga to Ciudad Hidalgo 31km, Total KM 6794

Min meters 2099, Max Meters 2981
Total Climb 260 Total Descent 920


Well, Mexico is certainly giving me a lesson on weather!

There were rumblings of thunder and distant flashes of lightning when I was falling asleep about 10pm. Sometime after 1 am I was treated to the most amazing audio & visual display I've ever witnessed! Out of nowhere, it seemed, a gigantic, earth shaking crash of thunder sounded directly overhead! I was just coming to when the whole area was lit with a blinding flash that probably lasted less than a second but seemed much longer and left me half blind for longer still! This continued for an hour or so, huge blasts of thunder, gigantic flashes of lightning. There was hardly any wind at all, so it seemed to be just hanging over the lake. Not long after the initial flashes and crashes large drops of rain started to fall on the tent and soon it was torrential. There was nothing to do but lie back and be in thrall to nature. About 2 am the thunder and lightning seemed to move away, although the rain stayed, but half an hour later it was back! An incredibly impressive display, if not a great night's sleep!

It was well after dawn when I woke up and I was feeling very sluggish. I skipped coffee in order to get on the road as soon as possible. I wanted to get a good run down the road. In fact, today was going to be a good day! A relatively shortish run down to Ciudad Hidalgo where I'd rest a while and wander around the town, then a longish run down the road to another campsite. Best of all, I'd a lot of descending to do!

While the tent and everything in it had stood up well to last night's storm, I was disgusted with myself for leaving my Spanish notebook carelessly on the floor in the vestibule - it was soaking wet!!

I rolled out of the campground and immediately began a steep climb for the first km or so, then a steady, and sometimes steep, descent began.

It was not pleasant. First of all, the road surface was brutal, especially on the bends and there were lots of them. Potholes, big cracks, loose gravel, uneven patches all meant that I couldn't surrender to the fun of the descent. The shade from the pine trees made it all the more difficult, rolling from bright sunshine into dark shade made it harder to see the potential dangers. In many respects this was similar to the Appalachians - lots of s-bends - but the road surface was far more treacherous. And the trees were different.

At one stage, I pulled up at a low wall and sat, stupefied at the scenery around me. I should have been thrilled, excited, captivated but I was none of those things. I had a nasty headache and I was not feeling good. I was alternating between being very warm in the sunshine and bitterly cold in the shade.

I continued on down and as time progressed I was finding it harder and harder to focus on the road in front of me - it seemed to be rolling underneath me faster than I could process it - and I was by no means going fast.

Coming up to Ciudad Hidalgo I saw an Oxxo and pulled in thinking a coffee would be just what the doctor ordered. It wasn't. Just as I was about to leave it started to rain so I sheltered under an awning and read my book for a while. By the time I was ready to go again my focus had changed - I needed a hotel and to rest up. I was running a temperature but still very cold. I was feeling very lethargic and my head was pounding.

I rode into the town which was not at all like Lonely Planet had described. I'm not seeing a lot of the beautiful architecture it described! Now that I had a phone signal I discovered I had no data but managed to find some free WiFi. A quick look and a cycle around and I settled on a hotel. All I wanted was a hot shower and bed. Unfortunately, no hot water. I bought a bottle of 7up and went to bed, shivering and sweating.

I must be the world's worst patient! When I tell myself I'm sick it's like I'm on death's door! Having said that, I think this is just a reaction to the hail and rain I experienced on the way to the lake campground. I got very wet and very cold. I'm fairly sure I'm not suffering from CV!


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 190 , Thursday March 19 2020, Ciudad Hidalgo to Aporo 20km, Total KM 6914

Min meters 2017, Max Meters 2296
Total Climb 447 Total Descent 428


I spent three nights in Ciudad Hidalgo, changing my hotel after the first one. I'd a decent internet connection and the news coming in was not good. Countries were shutting down, some more orderly than others, some more authoritarian than others. It became clearer and clearer that a decision was looming in front of me as to whether to continue or not.

I left my hotel once per day just to get some food, otherwise just reading or watching some YouTube. It would be fair to say that my "touring head" wasn't really engaged.

It's amazing how a potentially wonderful tool like the Internet can be so full of crap. Trying to find accurate info on what was happening, to whom and where was a matter of picking through umpteen arguments, shouting matches and malicious misinformation. Since I tend to think better after a ride I looked online for an Airbnb that had a long vacancy, found one and booked it for a few days. It was in the mountains, in a small village - a good place to think and possibly sit things out for a couple of weeks.

I only had a short distance to cover so set off later than normal, stopping for some chicken and water.

Getting out of the town was easy enough - I was even given priority by a traffic policeman at a junction!

The mountains around here are spectacular with many more jagged peaks than before. Sometimes the contrasts of the bright blue sky, virgin white clouds and the varying shades of blue mountains beneath them are simply breathtaking.

The road was a simple two laner with light traffic. Progress was slow because I was in no rush, the views were great and there was one very steep, twisty climb.

I passed through a small village with a wonderful church where the Police were very friendly. I've been reading reports of other countries where the Police are less friendly to foreigners.

The road I was on was heading to one of the Monarch Butterfly sanctuaries and was very quiet. The temperature was hitting the mid thirties so I took advantage of a shaded bus stop to kick back and read a chapter of my book.

Continuing on, I soon reached the small village of Aporo and had a cool drink in the little plaza. I had a little exploration of the village - it has a wonderful church! - then headed for my AirBnb.

My hosts are incredibly friendly & hospitable. There's a lovely big garden and an outdoor kitchen for me to use. I've a three day reservation which I am going to use to think my way through my options.

For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122
Thank you!

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Well, this is the kind of post that doesn't belong in a travelogue - there'll be no travelling for a while!

I'm here for the foreseeable future, currently by choice, soon the choice will be removed.

The Irish Embassy have been simply wonderful. I registered my journey with them and replied to an email for an update on my situation. That was immediately followed up with a cale l from one of the staff. Their standard advice is to "go home".

I have to admit that this had a deep impression on me. It was explained that it was likely that I would not be able to leave soon.We also chatted about the situation further south and the possible length of time that the virus would be causing problems. He also specifically mentioned the necessity of a support network.

I found the information to be intelligent, sensible and delivered in a factual, as opposed to dramatic, way. At no time did I feel forced one way or another.

Like I say, this made a deep impression. I researched flights, spoke to my hosts about storing my bike & some gear here for up to two years.

When push came to shove I could not press the button on my phone. It was that simple.

My reasons, I think, are valid.

First of all, I have no "home". I sold my house before I left NL. If I return there I have no place to stay, no job and most importantly, no health insurance! My travel insurance is not valid in the country the policy was taken out in.

In NL, I would be depending on the goodwill of friends, little prospect of employment, the risk of falling I'll and without my bike to get around.

In Ireland, the situation would be similar, although I'd be covered if I got ill.

In both places I'd be making myself a burden on friends for an undetermined timeframe. That's not something that sits easily with me.

I'd consider the travelling itself to be a significant risk for infection. I'd hate to be responsible for carrying the virus to friends.

Where I am I can effectively self isolate and in a location that is perfect for it - lots of space, good wifi and fabulous hosts.

Deep down, I also know that if I left here I'd never return. My budget just would not sustain it.

Finally, I wasn't ready to stop this trip. Maybe it's just my midlife crisis, but my main objective in this trip is to figure out what to do (and where to do it) for the rest of my days. That's not altogether clear yet and I don't want to give up on that. I've learned that the destination is rarely the highpoint of a bike trip - it's the journey that's important. Staying put in a place for months is just a part of the journey.

As requested, I emailed the Embassy to inform them of my decision to stay. This was immediately followed up with a phonecall from the Ambassador, herself! Expecting to be chewed out I was instead given practical advice (introduce myself at the local health centre just in case I need them later). She knew of my trip and invited me to the Embassy when all this is over. I was told to stay in touch and not hesitate to contact them for any reason at all.

I cannot commend these people enough. A guy on a bike travelling around should not be getting this kind of attention! I'll take it, however, and am very, very grateful for it.

I have moments where I ask myself just what the hell I've done, but they are few and far between. I'll be working on my Spanish, catching up on my reading, doing some planning for the eventual restart.

I consider myself to be incredibly lucky to be in my situation. I have the budget to see this through for a few months, I'm in a great location with genuinely good people and I'm healthy. I'm not driven by an urge to get somewhere just for the sake of it and I have no clock ticking down to an end date. I'm content to stay where I am.

I've read some nasty and scary reports from cyclists in other countries. Perhaps I'm just incredibly dumb, but my gut instinct and my experience of my three months in Mexico is that the people are fundamentally good and generous. I don't anticipate a significant anti-foreigner issue as is happening elsewhere. To be honest, of all the countries to be in at this time in this part of the world, Mexico is probably the place to be.

As far as I know there are people reading this all over the world so I send my best wishes to you all. Stay safe and look after each other.

For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 262, Sunday May 31, 2020, Aporo to Aporo 26km, Total KM 6940

Min meters 2220, Max Meters 2430
Total Climb 574 Total Descent 685

La aventura grande grande vive!

Don't be getting excited, I'm not back on the road, well at least not in any travelling sense.

But I am back on the bike! For the last two days after being off it since the middle of March!

My first ride was yesterday, nothing to trouble the writers of "The Longest Bike Rides…...Ever!" I stuck to the road, climbed out of the little town and while Gizmo will show a total of about 14km, I had the feeling I travelled further than Elon Musk's rocket ship!

It was pretty much uphill the whole way, a quiet road and when I got too hot, I turned around and hooped and hollered back to town.

Back on the bike! Wahoo!!!​

Today, feeling a bit more adventurous, I tackled a hill and then a bit of secondary road. I was feeling so good that I followed a loop.

For cycling, the ascent was brutal! Pretty much 2km straight up with a grade of 15%. The secondary "road" was…... interesting. When the ascent continued on sand and gravel my poor worn back tyre couldn't cope without a load so I ended up walking a while.

Adventure! ​

But this wasn't about the cycling. This was about México and adventure and Mexicans.

I've been following the adventures of Covid 19 on its Big Big Trip far and wide. I am constantly looking for somewhere to go, somewhere I can keep this dream alive.

I've been coming to the same conclusion for the last few months - this is the best place for me - but as the time has dragged on, as the situation has turned scarier, as some of the worst elements of human nature have surfaced and spread like a stinking sludge I've stopped feeling that I was in the best place.

Nothing like a bike ride, especially a bike ride on México, to slap me around my self-pitying head and get me to realise just how damn lucky I am to be where I am!

I met people who waved and smiled. I met cars and pickups who pulled over for me, or slowed down to reduce the dust. Three teenagers passed me on an ancient motorbike (social distancing how are you??!) smiling and waving. I met groups of cowboys off on a Sunday jaunt.

An old cowboy stopped to talk to me and I had my first proper conversation "on the road", with a stranger, en español!

Words fail me to describe just how important that moment was for me. As is so, so typical of this country he never stopped smiling at me as the conversation became longer and stretched my vocabulary and I began to struggle. He encouraged me, complimented me, welcomed me, wished me luck. Fuelled by his gentle nature I finished strongly and if pride is a sin, I'm destined for the hottest part of Hell!

Someone must have been slicing some big onions when I continued on. In that brief conversation a lot of my fears were put to bed and I realised that this hiatus is going to give me the chance to get so much more out of this little adventure! It may well not be on a bike, but I can live with that!

Not an idea. Not a theory. Real life proof!

Whatever's down the road and around the bend.....I'll be ready!​

A little later I met some more Cabelleros, and another stopped for a chat. However, this time his compadres joined in and I was swiftly brought back to earth! One chap, in particular, didn't say a word, but just beamed at me the whole time - much the same way I imagine I'd smile at someone manning a taco stand after almost three months of very basic cooking! His eyes lit up from the moment I said where I was from and how I ended up on that dusty road chatting to some guys on horses!

Maybe I'm missing the road more than I thought, but in any case, there's something very special about the people in this beautiful corner of our planet.

I'd be neglectful if I didn't mention the girl who waved and smiled at me from a passing car as I watched another large group of cowboys turning into a field.

And to think I was nervous venturing out on my bike!! The biggest threat I faced was from random chickens squawking around the road!

It's a funny thing how we get used to things. Layer by layer things land upon our shoulders. Sometimes "waffer thin" as the guys in Monty Python might say. So light we don't notice them, but layer by layer they build up, getting heavier and we don't even notice. The posture might change. We might slow down. Maybe not sleep so well. And we don't even notice. Day by day the layers get heavier. The New Normal - the phrase of our times. We just get used to the load.

If we've good habits we can shake them off when they land, or maybe periodically.

If we're lucky those close to us see them and help us remove them.

If we're smart we'll notice them before they smother us and do something about them.

If we're none of those things then we'll keep getting loaded down, until one final "waffer thin" layer finishes everything.

I guess I've had a lot of layers fall down on my shoulders these last months. There's been some scary stories from the road, lots and lots of warnings. Those warnings kept me off the road. I'd gotten used to them. The New Normal.

My 14km yesterday, my 12ish today may total up to 26km on the road, but in my head I've travelled further than I think I've ever done before!

Cowboys! Look out for some on your next ride!

As always, comments are most welcome here
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day whatever… .it's really not important!


So, I've been getting out on the bike for the past few weeks. None of the trips are massively long, but all are interesting. I'm feeling the climbing, but the roads are great fun!

There's an ad in Dutch TV for a Belgian style wit (white) beer, a typical summer beer. It starts with the camera positioned in front of an old building with the big, wooden gates closed. Suddenly the gates are thrown open and a whole lot of very pretty girls in their summer outfits come flowing out of the brewery (it could be Dentergems or Wieckse - I can't remember!) It's actually a very accurate ad because everyone looks better in their summer clothes!

I mention that here because it's summer here and the little towns are filled with lots of pretty girls in their summer clothes! Ocampo, a town not too far away, was filled with them on a Sunday afternoon! Cycling on a footpath (!) weaving in and out of people looking for a bank machine I even got a big smile from a particularly pretty police officer! Even her big machine gun seemed benign!

It's amazing the things I forget! A few days back on the bike knocking around and I'm reminded just what going around Mexico on a bike is like.

First of all, the music! So many houses with speakers blasting out the songs. Anywhere else it would be annoying, but here it just fits right in.

Then there's the roads and the fact that you just can't rely on them! Every now and then and for no apparent reason the surface is gone, the under surface is gone and you've no idea just how far down you're going to go! Adventure is all around!

That leads on to the next thing I've forgotten - the fact that lanes of the road are just a guideline, a gentle suggestion! Not on the main roads, but on the smaller ones around here, certainly. There's no malice, no danger but it's ….. interesting to watch a car or truck weave from side to side as it heads towards me! Sometimes I'll do the same and we'll pass each other, both on the wrong side of the road.

One thing I hadn't forgotten, but have missed are the roadside food stalls. I pulled up to one the other day and had two delicious tacos with the most eye-watering salsa! Fantastic!

I think anyone that's cycled in México will be aware of the speed bumps! They're frequent, of varying designs and impacts. The worst ones are located at the bottom of hills! Hit one of those at speed on a loaded bike and you'll know all about it!

Then there's the proliferation of VWs. The beetles and the old style vans have the most impact on me. There's something so cute about them, especially when mixing it up with far larger traffic.

The thing I've given myself the hardest kicking over are the smiles. They're everywhere. What I'd forgotten were just how natural they are. One evening, out as the sun was falling I came across three young guys hanging out at the side of the road. Two had bandana masks around their faces. Automatically my Spidey senses are active - I'm in the middle of nowhere, three young lads, staring at the gringo and then the guy without the mask breaks out into a huge, bright smile! Spidey senses sent packing!

Sometimes I really feel like a stranger in a strange land in a strange world in a strange galaxy, floating in a strange nebula. In other words I do not recognize where I am. Jose made me feel like that today, and absolutely not in a bad way.

It all started, as a lot of my stories do, with me being a dumbass!

I'd set off to Ciuded de Hidalgo after my breakfast and my Spanish lessons. I needed cash and I needed to pick up some decent coffee. There's a brutal climb on the way back so I wasn't going to be loading myself down - just a nice spin and running some errands.

Ciudad De Hidalgo​

First stop was the bank and, as is quite normal here, there was a long queue - except this time it was outside because of Covid. Since the sun was shining brightly everyone was queing in the shade so I parked my bike up on the opposite side of the car park and locked it, using my combination cable lock and my shorter padlock.

Now, way, way back when I was dreaming of this trip and getting things together I had a long, long think about locks. Away from home, travelling every day by bike a combination lock was the way to go. However, I could not find a decent quality combination padlock that wasn't huge but I did come across a padlock designed for marine use that fitted my bill - except for the fact that it used a key. Much humming and hawing later, I plumped for the better lock and figured out that under my normal touring regime I wouldn't lose the key.

Do you see where this is going?

Standing in that long bank queue I had a whole lot of time to call myself several uncomplimentary names because while my padlock was holding my special "springy" lock in place, my key was 20km away in Aporo! I guess cycling in a pandemic is not my "usual touring regime"!

After lugging my locked bike around town (the one and only time I have ever considered the weight of my bike!) I finally got directions to a locksmith and this is where José enters the story. It was his store, tiny, him, his key cutting machine, his wife and two young kids trying to do some homework and peek at the silly gringo with the locked bike.

I'd be dishonest if I didn't say that I hadn't the greatest first impression of José. What I'd describe as prison tattoos decorated his arms and legs. Perhaps his locksmithing skills were acquired under less than legal circumstances. Perhaps they were an indication too that he wasn't very good in his area of expertise!

However, a warm, genuine smile put me quickly at ease and he set to work. His wife dealt with the other customers who came along, but when one insisted on dealing with José directly I had to argue with him to deal with his customer. On a bike tour, time tends to be less important. On a bike tour in México that's doubly so. On a pandemic inspired, paused bike tour in México time is an irrelevance!

For an hour Jose toiled on my (surprisingly good!) lock. First picking it didn't work. Removing the rubber cover he drilled holes to remove springs, breaking a drill bit in the process (lock still intact!). More holes, more springs until finally success!!

Delighted, I wanted to pay him to get the big surprise! He wanted me to bring back the key, then he could replace all the springs, seal the holes and my lock would be almost as good as new! I'd expected my lock to be toast, but no! Most surprisingly of all, José didn't want any money because the job wasn't finished! Stunned, I wandered away thinking, again, what a very, very different country this is. Me, a stranger, a foreigner, sent away and told to return whenever I like. He knew my first name but no phone number, no address, nothing to track me down. Maybe it's just me, but I was deeply touched by how natural it seemed for him to trust a stranger. We'd chatted a little as he worked, but that was the extent of our relationship.

(When I did return the following week to drop off the keys I insisted on paying - it was less than a fiver! We had another good natured argument when I tried to tip and finally he accepted it on behalf of his kids).

There is something very special about this country!

Home; Down the road, around the bend and up a hill! ​

Any comments? Fire ahead!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day Whatever Monday June 29, 2020

A six street junction controlled by traffic lights. I'm waiting patiently on a red light watching with bemusement at the chaos in the centre when a guy rolls up beside me on an ancient MTB, a big dog on a lead and heads off into the chaos. Neither him, the dog nor any of the traffic appear to blink an eye.

An elderly woman approaches a man who appears down on his luck and tells him her coffee has sugar and she doesn't like it. Could he help her and take it from her.

A modern office block with a huge tree directly in front, its expanse blocking light from most of the first four floors. Anywhere else I've lived that tree would have been torn down. Not here!

An eight storey building swaying from left to right 15 meters in front of me while people stand in the street. That's my home wobbling in an earthquake!

Apartment blocks, cafes and restaurants with hydraulic parking spots to double capacity.

A man, probably in his fifties, asleep, covered by a blanket in one of the little gardens often created around a tree along the street. He's alone, but there are others under different trees.

A residential street lined with trees, the roots above ground, weaving and twisting in a style that brings Tolkein vividly to mind. The pavement is not just uneven, it's sloping violently, that part that hasn't been broken by the power of the roots. A little bit of magic outside someone's front door.

Shiny towers, reaching for the sky, millions of carats in the bright sunshine, but soulless in comparison to the shabby convenience-store-downstairs-and-packed-living accommodation-upstairs on the street around the corner.

A mass of cables and power lines, seemingly in a massive tangle, with cables running in all directions to nearby buildings and some, broken, cut or just waiting for connection hanging down, mingling with pedestrians or cars. Occasionally scaring the Bejaysus out of an Irish cyclist out exploring.

Trees. Everywhere trees! All different kinds of trees. Everywhere!

And smiles. So many smiles.

Just some scenes from Mexico City, Ciudad De México or just CDMX.

I ❤ this scene! ​

You'd think that after experiencing an earthquake for the first time in my life that that would be the opening to this post, but it's not. It's not the most significant thing to have happened to me in the past week or two - Mexico City has happened to me and rather than focus on the few moments of sheer terror I'm choosing to concentrate on this fabulous, beautifully chaotic (or chaotically beautiful ?) city.

I've fallen, and fallen hard, for this place. Without meaning to make light of a serious situation, I'm starting to think that this pandemic may not be a bad thing at all, for me. At best, my plans for visiting CDMX would have been for 3 or 4 days, leaving Roccado and gear somewhere outside. Well, I've clocked up double that time now and I'm looking at a few months here and I still can't see how I am going to experience everything!

My hosts had business in the city and at the last minute offered me the chance to come along. They've an apartment in the city and it would give me a chance to visit the immigration people and enquire about extending my visitor permit. I jumped at the chance and on my first full day headed into the city centre.

These are my words from then;

Wow! The museum of fine arts, El Palacio de Bellas Artes, is a beautiful building! It stands alone, supremely confident in its ability to amaze. Beside it is a wonderful park, filled with grasses, trees, multiple statues and fountains and, of course, many, many seats so people can actually enjoy it.

This is Mexico, after all, and parks seem to be a vital place in every community, no matter how large or small.

The park closest to where I am staying is a little run down, but is filled in the evening with people walking their dogs, jogging, walking, eating together or simply watching the world go by.

The squirrels here are so tame that I had to walk around one a little earlier.

I'm a stone's throw from the Centro Historico, but will have to take a less direct route to it. The street linking me to there is closed as part of the Coronavirus precautions.

It seems like the City has three sections, (although I'm sure that will rise to four when I get to the pre-hispanic areas). The largest is the suburbs stretching out and around the centre - individual communities, all part of a larger being. It seems certain areas are specialised - for instance, close to my apartment the streets are full of stores & workshops for cars and car components of all types. While some would be familiar to us in the form of large chains, the vast majority are small, nay, tiny independent businesses operating out of a tiny workshop/store. Need your car fixed? Pull up outside and they'll do the job right there on the street!

Another area of the inner city is devoted to electronics - repairs, sales, everything! Hundreds of tiny operators touting their wares cheek by jowl. These stores are currently closed due to the virus, but many have handmade posters with WhatsApp numbers for individual contact and presumably "emergency" service. Yesterday, I was amused to watch a clandestine electronics store operating illegally, customers being ushered through a small door in the shutters. There's a healthy disrespect for the law in these parts.

Later I found the "bici cuarto" the area for bike sales & repairs. Like the car quarter, this had a hodgepodge of stores, most tiny, with the work being carried out on the street. A few bigger stores had full displays of bikes, while others seemed to specialise - some just seemed to be selling wheels, for example.

A quick survey and I'll have no problem replacing my cassette and chain - 7 speed - and will even be able to pick up a 14-34 one which will make the climbing easier.

Another area is along the Avenida Paseo de Reforma, where all the modern skyscrapers are. A beautiful avenue, planted with lots of trees, bushes, flowers and grasses, the occasional fountain and statues. A Starbuck's on every block a marker of this modern quarter.

Then there's the "Centro Historico" around the Plaza de la Constitucion. I was blown away by this place and wandered around doing laps, the buildings aweing me on every pass. But the side streets were fascinating too! Old buildings, repurposed over the years with shops and businesses below, apartments above. Some old, elegant buildings retaining their elegance through age and neglect, others not so much. But so interesting. Sometimes I'd walk up one of these streets only to turn around and walk back down on the other side just for a different perspective.

Literally a shell of a building, directly opposite the grandeur and elegance of the Palace of Fine Arts!​

And doors! So many great doors! Like Morelia, but more used, more real and less presentable - but I love them!

I took hardly any photos simply because I didn't need to. I have the most precious gift of time and I'll be back again.

I know the city is particularly quiet because of the virus, but I've loved wandering around. Everyone is wearing a face mask but have no problem congregating in the shops that are open. Signs are up warning that the city is at the worst stage (red) of their warning system, but there seems to be a casual attitude to safety.

On the bus on the way into the centre it started off about half full but quickly filled up to the point it was standing room only. There doesn't seem to be any limits on public transport, yet a visit to the supermarket entailed a temperature check and the guys at the door seemed to be counting people.

My experience with the Immigration folks thus far has been positive. I went down to the main office yesterday with my host to enquire about extending my visitor permit. By law, these cannot be extended, instead a new one is needed and normally easily obtained by leaving the country for a few hours and re-entering. Of course, this is impossible at the moment and the Government here is offering the opportunity to extend the permit on humanitarian grounds.

Joining the socially distanced queue outside I was becoming anxious when the people in front of me were receiving clearly negative responses. When my turn came, the lady listened patiently to my erratic Spanish explanation and referred me to a more senior colleague. Really nervous now, I related the story again, the bike trip, the difficulty in travelling, the desire to continue at some stage. No problem! Here's a form with all the info you need, an online portal to supply them with basic info and I have to return on the last day of my permit to get an extension. He was wearing a facemask but I'm sure he was smiling behind it as he explained this.

Mexico is great!

I'm not sure how I feel about being treated differently on humanitarian grounds, but I'm incredibly relieved and grateful for how the Mexican approach is just so…..human!

I had a few more days in the city, visiting the local park daily to eat or have a coffee and watch the people. There is a wonderful calmness and tranquility I find. There's a real sense of society in that everyone seems to get along. Even the dogs!

There are huge numbers of dogs here, very much part of the family. In the park there's a specific area for them to play off lead, but this being México, that rule is widely ignored. Now, as a (former) responsible dog owner, I'd tend to have a problem with this, but in México, even the dogs understand society and getting along. They might run and chase and play with each other but there isn't an ounce of malice or aggression to be seen. I can sit and eat in total peace - not a single dog will try for a quick snack.

I'm now back in the city and have made the decision to move here, visa extension permitting.

Yes, it's a risk to move to an urban area since the virus is not under control here. But, I like to think of it as a calculated risk.

My hosts can reopen their business and having me out of the way can only be a good thing. By making use of their apartment I can repay some of their hospitality by paying for an unused asset.

And, frankly, the chance to live in this huge, historical, cultural and downright amazing city is just too good to pass up! Time will tell whether I've made a foolish choice but right now I'm incredibly excited and massively happy to be here.

Why?

Because this place is just so crazily beautiful.

The people; like elsewhere, so quick to smile, so welcoming to someone who is obviously a stranger. I'd expected less smiles, both at this time and in such a big place, I'm so pleased to report that my expectations were wrong.

I'm not stupid and I know that any city has some dodgy folk and I've seen a few hombres I thought better to avoid, but for a city of this size, at a time of such crisis, it is incredibly welcoming!

The architecture; There's everything here from modern, towering skyscrapers of glass to buildings built by the Spaniards and everything in between, often with hardly anything separating them. I'm definitely starting to turn into a building admirer and can happily wander around marvelling at what is, what once was and what the hell were they thinking! I'm really excited at the prospect of visiting so many churches! They're all closed now, but the ones I've seen are calling me to go back and appreciate them properly. Whether it's the great Cathedral, in a state of disrepair with actual trees growing out of it!, or the more modern ones, with fancy facades and less behind to a couple I saw sinking into the ground, they have so many stories to tell.

In my own quirky way, I'm entranced by the trees here, but especially their roots! Trees are everywhere, I'm presuming to provide shade and coolness in the heat. Many of them have been here for a long, long time and their roots are above ground, weaving and winding and swirling around. They break up pavements, have had sections of pavement removed and planted with grasses or bushes. They appear to be the kings of the city - imperious, powerful and unlimited by humans.

I'm loving the fact that the city is so alive, despite a serious lack of people and businesses open. The bike quarter was fantastic, a hive of activity despite the virus, the car repair quarter the same. It's amazing watching two guys working under a car with no wheels, some kind of a support front and rear - on the street! Cars and trucks passing by means that one bump and there's a car on top of two guys! There's a real sense of energy and industry, despite the fact that time seems to be an irrelevance and everyone seems so laid back.

As elsewhere in México, noise is everywhere. I'm charmed by the fact that service providers advertise themselves through speakers even though we're in the Capital City. Like in Aporo where I could tell the gas man by his musical horn or the fruit, veg or ice-cream folks calling out that they were around, I can hear similar in this city of 9 or 21 million (depending on where you want to draw the boundaries!)

On one of my bike rides near Aporo, I came across a battered car with two speakers strapped to the top. The sound quality was so bad I couldn't figure out what they were selling but I stopped to watch them bounce down a little road, turn around and on the way back old women and little kids had come out to buy tortillas, as it turned out.

Whatever they're doing, they're doing it just right - the noise is loud enough to hear, not loud enough to ignore and at a level to be interpreted as a service rather than an annoyance - or maybe I just have my traveller head on!

Another noise is from the birds! There are so many trees and so many parks the birds have lots of real estate options! In the quieter ones I can be treated to one of nature's natural orchestral scores. A couple of minutes walk away the main thoroughfare can be filled with big diesel engined trucks, ancient, dilapidated vans and pickups and motorbikes either puttering or roaring depending on their size and state of repair, but where I'm sitting all that is a distant hum and the birds reign supreme.

Of course, there's the people noise too! The other night, sometime after midnight, someone started listening to some very sad ballads. Of course, that meant that a lot of the neighborhood heard them too! In Holland, someone would call the Police for that. Here, it just seemed ….. normal. Who hasn't, at one time or another, reached for the vino tinto, or a beer or maybe a tequila, thrown on some sad music and wallowed a little?

There's one particular area, not too far from me, that is just amazing! It's home to the Leon Trotsky museum (he was assassinated here) and the Frida Kahlo museum (a very interesting woman who created some very interesting art and lived a remarkably interesting life - yes! A whole lot of interesting!). It was at one time, a kind of artistic or architectural quarter and it is filled with the most interesting houses and buildings, tree lined streets and emits a wonderful sense of calm beauty. I set off for a bit of exercise one evening to see where the museum was - it's currently closed due to the virus - but soon forgot about my destination and just wandered the streets. Londres (London), Berlin, Viena, such elegant street names and such elegant streets. As it transpires I'd walked past the museum twice and the back of the Trotsky once, but that wasn't important. One after another there was something captivating and interesting about each building. I was walking, and for the first time in years I realised that even my bike would be too fast for this neighbourhood! There are some wonderful cafés and restaurants in the area too, the restaurants old and classically decorated, oozing charm and character - but they are all closed at the moment, or only available for take out. Something to look forward to!

This morning I took my bike out for my first ride in CDMX. It's fair to say I was a little apprehensive, but even here, in this massive city, I felt relatively safe, and certainly a part of the transport community. Initially, my route kept me to the smaller streets, later I was on some of the main thoroughfares. Apart from getting confused at one or two junctions (sometimes there's 5 or 6 options) and a wariness of big puddles (because I don't know if there's a hole!) it was fine, fun even, and with some of the dodgy surfaces it even felt adventurous!

At one stage, I pulled up and stopped because the thought had just flitted across my brain that I was riding my bike in México City!! Sometimes I forget just how far I've come!

Before I conclude this long, long with-hardly-any-bike-activity post, I need to throw in something about my Spanish. I've been working diligently, every day, making up my own Spanish course based on Duolingo, supplemented with YouTube, my own exercises, word puzzle books and a long running Mexican soap/drama on Netflix as well as trying to use whatever I can dredge up out of my head on dogs and even people! Again, the people are wonderful, willing to be patient, helpful and repeat, if necessary. I get a real buzz out of these interactions, like today, when I stopped to get a couple of tacos and had a little chat with the cook, asking him the name of the type of sausages I saw. He was happy to oblige and went further, naming all the different meats he had, which of course, overpowered my poor brain! It feels like each one of these little encounters gives me another little power icon that I can use to power me through my next one!

Previously, I'd have been too reluctant to try a new language until I was sure I wouldn't make a mistake. It seems my attitude to touring is creeping in everywhere - don't wait until everything is perfect, get out and have fun now, doing is learning!

Any comments? Fire ahead!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day Whatever - The Bike Touring Post

I'm acutely conscious of the fact that I haven't really touched on any bike touring subjects in my last posts so I'll try to correct that here in one go - not that there's much option for bike touring these days.

The first thing I'll say is that the city riding has become a bit more challenging physically and psychologically.

Physically, the city is getting busier which means more traffic. This being México that also means more illegal manoeuvres to contend with! Breaking lights and going the wrong way on one way streets are common and I prefer to view them as part of the adventure rather than people out to get me!

Also, there's the climate. There tends to be one good rainstorm a day - with a lot of rain! This leads to flooding and given the tendency for potholes, damaged drains and the occasional absence of drain covers/grates a real sense of exploration! It also means that I shouldn't stop close to junctions as passing traffic is likely to result in a dirty shower! Another lesson learned!

Like everywhere else in México, CDMX makes ample use of one way streets. At first, they're a tad disorienting, but I'm getting used to them and am rapidly becoming convinced that they are ultimately safer - at least they would be if everyone followed the right direction!

Psychologically, I saw a front page picture in a city newspaper a few days ago of a dead cyclist. An older man, lying under his bike, blood spread out around him like an ineffective cape. For some reason it's a vivid image that's staying with me.

However, there's a mentality here where everybody seems to want to get along. I'll see a manoeuvre where a car does something wrong, and sure, someone will beep a horn, but not in anger. More in a Monty Python "he's a very naughty boy" way. In other countries such a manoeuvre would inspire rage in others, as if the slightest impediment to their progress should be repaid with hatred, bile and worse. Here, it's just ……... different.

One of the big differences are the food delivery guys on bikes and motorbikes. Back in NL they were a nightmare whizzing everywhere, often on Ebikes. They only stopped to pick up and deliver. Here they stop for everyone! I like to walk around in no rush so if I see one approaching a junction I'll step back to let them by. Nope! They'll wait until I cross the road!

Being a tad superstitious, I did no chores until I was granted more time to stay, then I set about working through my checklist of things to do.

The nerve centre! Tidied especially for the photo ​

First, I needed more clothes as I want to "keep" my bike clothes for the bike and not wear them out. Options were limited as a lot of stores are closed, but some large supermarkets also have clothing departments - sorted! A couple of t-shirts, some underwear and a cheapy pair of shoes.

I also needed a new charging cable for my electronics - the old ones died one after another. That was more challenging as the government had specifically closed all those stores and while the big supermarkets had them they weren't allowed sell them! The convenience store at the local petrol station obliged.

Decathlon are in México so I ordered an extra pair of zip off hiking trousers and a better pair of walking shoes.

Then it was time for the bike! I needed a new chain and cassette and the rear wheel had been making a strange noise. I brushed up on some Spanish words like chain, hub, bearing (words that I barely know in Dutch and have a vague understanding of meaning in English!) and found a friendly, competent local repair only shop. For a very low price (by Dutch standards) I got a full service, hubs and headset included (headsets scare the bejaysus out of me!), new cassette and chain.

Of more critical concern was my Son dynohub which hasn't worked since falling into that drain outside of Morelia. Truth be told it hasn't been an *essential* bit of kit up to now. Handy, certainly, reassuring definitely, but as things have worked out I've had good options to recharge along the way.

However, if I ever get going again, and I've no idea if I will, it may be necessary to take some roads less travelled and the hub will come into its own then.

Enter Javier and Oliver.

Javier runs a bike store, specialising in Bromptons, in a city a few hundred kms away. He's also the sole Schmidt (Son) agent in México. I found him on Facebook and sent a message one Sunday evening. Immediate response.

Long story short, I can send the hub to him, he'll check it off and send it to Germany for repair. But, to be sure, before I do anything, he wants his friend, Oliver, to have a look at it. Oliver's here, in CDMX, a bit of an electric expert and he'll check it in situ.

A local bike and yes, that contraption at the back is fixed on! ​

Should I be offended that Javier clearly doubts my technical abilities and thinks the problem may just be a damaged cable?

Perhaps, but then again, he's dealing with a guy who rode his bike into a drain! 😄

Oliver duly calls me and in a city of at least 9 million people he's less than a km from me! I swap out the trailer wheel I'm using on the front, reinstall the dynamo wheel and cycle around. He's waiting on the street with his kit and confirms what I thought - the hub's as dead as the dodo.

Javier is now checking with Germany that it's ok if I send it directly to Germany because it'll be cheaper for me.

There's something about this process that I really like. I know bike store staff have to deal with customers of varying levels of knowledge. I also know some bike store staff use this for their own benefit, selling unnecessary items and services. That's not happening here. Oliver checked out that indeed there was a problem - he wouldn't even accept beer money.

Javier is checking what's the best way for me to proceed. The best thing for him is to get involved as early as possible, receiving the hub, sending the hub and being the designated receiver of the repaired hub. He's not doing that. What's best for him is not the priority - what's best for me is!

Have I said before that I really like México?

Another issue is Gizmo, my trusty Wahoo Elemnt. After the guts of three months sitting idle he finally got some use in Aporo and I noticed immediately the battery was draining rapidly - about 20% an hour! I tried fully discharging and recharging to no avail.

It's just shy of three years old and out of warranty. Contacting Wahoo I've been offered a hefty discount on the Bolt or the Roam - the Elemnt is discontinued.

I'm very annoyed that Gizmo had a lifespan of three years. In fairness to Wahoo it got used a lot and I get a very fair price on a replacement. However, I'm not a fan of the Bolt because I think it's a bit small and I'm not a fan of the Roam because it's overpriced for what it does and it has too many bells and whistles for me. It does have a "Saved Locations" feature though, that I think is interesting for my style of travel.

The killer reason for me to reject the Roam is actually its enhanced mapping capabilities!

Because it uses far more detailed maps the unit stores less of them. For example, my Elemnt has all the Central & South American maps on it now. The Roam won't hold them all. Yes, I can download what I need later, but only over "normal" wifi - the free wifi in the likes of Starbuck's etc. won't work. For me, that's no good.

Truth be told, I don't need a gps unit most of the time. Roads here are different to Europe - there are far fewer of them! However, it's a godsend in cities. The killer point though, is that I've become addicted to Strava! Not in the sense of segments or KOMs, but in the sense of recording my daily travels and uploading photos. Now, and way into the future, there's a pictorial record of a day's travelling coupled with the route. When I started this trip I'd never even thought of it, now it's something I don't want to lose.

I'd often thought that a Garmin Etrex would suit my needs perfectly but now when push comes to shove I can't pull the trigger. There's too much faffing about with maps, too many limits in terms of points and I've read of too many issues with memory cards. It uses a different cable to my existing electronics. On top of that, I'll lose my Strava interface and uploading my daily ride will become a chore rather than a pleasure.

I settled on the perfect solution - get a replacement battery for the Elemnt - Wahoo used to sell them. I found instructions in the Web, an Ebay supplier and thought that given the tools & skills required (I have none!) I'd get the battery, translate the instructions and bring it all to a phone repair place here. Simples!

Update:
I can't get anyone to ship the battery here!

At the right times all i can hear along here is the distant hum of traffic and the chattering and singing of birds!​

It looks like I'll be going for the Bolt. It operates exactly as the Elemnt does - just with a smaller screen.

Update: The Bolt is now out of stock and won't be available for at least a month. I looked again at the Roam and posted on a Wahoo board online. One kind soul went off and checked the size of all the Central & South American maps for me - they should all fit! Unit ordered.

I should also add that the Elemnt has been acting up, generally too. Not reloading an existing ride when switched off and even totally freezing one day - it's never done that. This is all happening after a three month layoff. I'm not an electronics expert but I can't help but see a connection.

As regards planning for further down the road I'm doing absolutely none! I'm always scanning what's going on pretty much everywhere around the world. There's one thing that keeps getting hammered home - Covid 19 is not going anywhere, just yet.

Ideas float through my head but I give them no weight. At this stage raising hope only to see it pulled down again will not be good for me.

It took me a while to figure out but i think this VW Beetle has had a section cut out of the middle! ​

The final part of this post is tangentially related to bike touring by virtue of logistics.

I should preface this part of the post by saying that I'm sure that more than one or two people have often had a WTF? moment at some of my more dumbass moments. Well, here's another! 😊

Finances and cash are often a troubling issue on a long trip like mine. Especially cash. How much to carry, how to carry, banks, access to banks, security - all important issues that if done carelessly can lead to discomfort or worse!

So, a few weeks ago my bankcard was rejected by the usual Bank chain I use. Not a big deal. I tried others. No joy.

I waited over the weekend in case it was a technical problem here and tried again. Nada.

I contacted my bank (Dutch) and everything was fine on their end. They had no information about issues in the Méxican banking system. That left only the card - I'd need a new one. In the meantime, what to do?

This church fascinates me - marooned on an island at a crazy junction - oh! And rain! ​

Ha! I'd already thought about that and had a second card stored for such an emergency - remember, I hadn't expected to be anywhere for any length of time after Mazatlãn.

I took it out, activated it online for this part of the world and went looking for the PIN code.

When I got this card just before I left, I'd consciously decided to use a different PIN from my existing card for security. Of course, I didn't write down the number directly, I codified it, disguising it effectively…..very effectively as it turns out!

Now, almost a year later and under a wee bit of pressure (no cash at all in a country that exists on cash!) looking at a series of numbers generated from a 4 digit pin while under the influence of very powerful painkillers I was shtumped!

I made two attempts, both rejected, before getting back onto the bank and requesting my pin to be sent out in the mail.

A few days later I got a message from my (incredibly patient) friend in NL with my pin number. Success at last! I've looked at the number and compared it to my codified number and I still have no idea what I was trying to do!😊

Kids, don't do drugs!


Comments, questions, please fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

At the side of a recently former maternity hospital a queue of ambulances, hearses and military vans. Some making deliveries, others collecting.
At the front of the hospital the human side of this scene is on full display.


Directly opposite the hospital, a caravan has been parked beside the park. It's offering food and, I think, some rudimentary medical checks. The socially distanced queue stretches three quarters of the way around the park. The people queueing are of all shapes, sizes and appearance. One by one they shuffle up, get disinfected, are brought inside and leave a little later carrying whatever they can in their own bags or cardboard boxes.


There's a six lane road directly outside my apartment. The middle four lanes all run downtown, the fifth and furthest is a bus/bike lane while the first and closest, is a contraflow bus/bike lane.
A few evenings ago I watched a guy on his bike cycling towards the centre, an adult German Shepherd on a lead, a husky puppy on another lead attached to the Shepherd. This is not an unusual sight in this town!
Approaching a junction the trio slowed down.
Seizing the opportunity, the Shepherd decided that this was the time and place for a poop!
What followed next was pure entertainment as the cyclist stopped, attempted to scoop and bag the poop while trying to control two dogs, one of whom saw the opportunity for playtime all the while holding his bike one-handed.


Early morning at the park and the rough sleepers are rousing themselves. One man shakes out his blanket and carefully folds it up before putting it in a bag. Most have a reusable shopping bag from a local supermarket, a few just wrap up their meagre belongings in their blanket.


Across the road there's a large tyre fitting store. They have a delivery service - a man on a motorbike! I watched one morning as he loaded four tyres on the back of his bike! The resulting tower was taller than he was - standing - and I've no idea how the bike didn't flip back or how he got them safely to their destination! But he did because he's still there!


Taking a wander on the bike in the centre I was forced to take shelter from a heavy thunderstorm. I wasn't the only one taking shelter under a building on the Plaza de la Constitución, and as these rainstorms can last a while, people pass the time in different ways.
The couple beside me took out a scissors and proceeded to trim their poodle's fur! Every scrap of fur was carefully collected and bagged.


There's a wonderful park beside the Palace of Fine Arts. It's not so much its beauty that appeals to me, it's all the life contained in it. There are so many seats there are always people. There's loads of fountains and statues too. On my first visits the fountains were off, but recently, some at least, were operating. One, in particular, is more modern and is actually lots of little fountains that intermittently shoot up out of the ground.
So?
It's great fun for kids - of all ages! They huddle close to the centre, trembling, bubbling, yelping bundles of nervous excitement until the water suddenly erupts and they run haphazardly around the jets, pushing and pulling, screeching their joy.

Just one of the many, many wonderfully detailed, old, historical, bursting with tales, mesmerizing doors in this town!​

There's a scene in the movie "Only You" where Marissa Tomei (sigh!) is trying to get on a plane in Rome because the man she loves is on it. Being Italy, the fact that she doesn't have the right ticket, or the fact that the flight is closed doesn't stop the flight attendants, the security or the pilot all coming together to get her on the plane. People over rules

It's a mirror image of an earlier scene in the US when she tries the same stunt - only to have security called on her. Rules over people.

Why am I dragging up an old Rom-Com? Because it's a great movie, but more importantly, it's a perfect representation of México! Sometimes, people are more important than rules.

I screwed up the form for Immigration. Above the warning that any errors would result in the rejection of my application I, confused by the drop down list on the computer screen, selected the wrong reason for my application.

Everything else was perfect - I double checked all my details - name, address, date of birth, Passport number etc. Then I triple checked the double check. I had not one letter accompanying my request - I had three! One from my Embassy, one written by my host and one written by me, in appalling Spanish telling my tale.

After all these years I finally got to be on Sesame Street 😄​

I know everything else was perfect because the nice lady at the desk carefully checked everything off.

She read my three letters, taking a long time on one in particular. I was worried until she held up my one and told me it was very funny - and the best one she'd read!

Then she told me my reason for applying was wrong. Disaster!

Well, anywhere else, a disaster. But this is México. I was passed on to a colleague whose first reaction was to tell me not to worry. Go back online, complete a new form - with the correct heading - and return either that day or the next.

So I did. I returned the next day and all went smoothly.

The humanity on display was everywhere. The heavily armed guards on the door smiled and told people where they could "hide" their bottles of water before entering the building. The guard operating the Airport style scanner at the door as I struggled to empty my pockets, remove my bike helmet while clutching my important papers was patience personified.

Cycling in the city is an adventure every time! ​

At the desk both days I was offered the chance to use English, but when opting for Spanish they were so patient when the lengths of the sentences exceeded my capabilities.

Big picture, the Mexican government has given me another six months to stay here - on humanitarian grounds. I could leave if I wanted - I have the resources - but I'm staying because that is what I prefer and they are allowing that.

They didn't even charge me. My initial permit cost a little over 500 pesos (about €25). This one was free.

There are so many horror stories of people having terrible experiences in foreign countries at this time that I have to, once again, thank the Touring Gods, or whoever, that had me in this wonderful place at this time.

And I thought Jesus was a carpenter!​

I'm sitting at my table working with Duolingo when Ana, my hostess, says to me "Frank, we have to go" in a strange, whispery tone. I should have known something was up as she was speaking English to me but I was quite nonchalent. I ignored the fact that Bilbo, their sausage dog, was quite agitated in her arms.

Her husband was out getting cleaning supplies for the AirBnB and I presumed they needed some help. Or maybe she wanted to show me something or meet someone. I was in no rush and started looking for my keys. A little more urgently, she repeated her request. At the door she stopped me from locking the door and urged me to go downstairs.

I really can't remember when she first used the word "sismo" but I can recall a rapidly descending sense of doom as I trotted down the stairs.

Outside on the street there was a curious mix of calm and chaos. The calmness came from the fact that there was no traffic - six lanes of a major city artery and no traffic! The chaos came from the dogs - it seems everyone has at least one and these were the most agitated dogs I've seen in México so far. Strangely, the people, about 70 gathered in this section of the street, were subdued, but calm.

It was only then that I heard the alarm - in a city of so many noises it just blended in for this foreigner.

I've never been in an earthquake before. There was one years ago in Ireland, but Ireland being Ireland, we wouldn't have known if nobody told us. Similarly, the north eastern parts of NL have suffered a few over the years but nothing of any significance. But this is México - and México is different!

One moment I'm standing on the street, tense because I'm half expecting a truck or something to come down the road, the next I'm watching the eight storey building in front of me swaying from side to side!

I've had some scary experiences in my life. I've been terrified and I was certainly terrified that day.

It's funny how our minds work - lighting fast and simultaneously wading in glue.
In nanoseconds I've become a structural engineer (I couldn't successfully build a treehouse!) assessing the likely direction the building is going to fall (there's no chance it won't fall - look at how it's swaying!). On the other hand I'm confused by all the agitated dogs - this is not my dog experience here. Then I become focused on the fact that Ana's fingers are digging into my arm and my mind wanders from the impending collapse to the pain in my arm. Eight storeys of masonory versus four fingers and a thumb and my brain focuses on the latter!

I've no solid recollection of how long the tremor went on but it was amazing how fast everything returned to normal. Everything, that is, except my poor heart!

(The centre of the earthquake was far to the south and east. It caused damage down there and accounted for two deaths the last time I checked. The low fatalities do not reflect the strength of the earthquake, rather the successful early warning system that México has developed).

What was more amazing was that a good fifteen minutes after we'd reached the street, a couple with their daughter and dog strolled out of the building. I was stunned at their apparent disregard for their own safety! Then I was waiting for the inevitable calling out, by their neighbours, of not taking better care of their dog!

Later, I discovered the reason; There's a 60 second period from the sounding of the alarm to leave a building and make it to open space. If you can't make it safely to open space in those 60 seconds you're supposed to stay put! I was shown the structural pillar running through the apartment which is the safest place to stand. The family lived above the fourth floor and unable to make it downstairs in 60 seconds just sheltered in place.

And I thought the street was terrifying! All those tall buildings had hundreds of people looking out at a wavy world!

Normality returned without any fanfare. People shuffled back inside, their dogs calm, a resident engineer did a walk through of the building looking for damage - one crack in an internal wall on the ground floor. We did a walk through of the apartment and saw no sign of any damage.

Of course there was no gas or electricity or water - for all of about 15 minutes. I was amazed! First the electricity, then the water and finally the gas. Everything here is built to be earthquake resistant - even the pipes and cabling.

Then the memes started flying - a very funny dark humour. The first thing I did was to go on Youtube and find the "sismo alarm" so I won't miss it again!!

An earthquake during a pandemic ​

Later, I put together a "grab bag" with my passport, extra clothes etc. in case of emergency. Just grab and go!

Trying to calm my poor nerves, someone sent me a link to a sismo tracking site - only for me to learn that CDMX actually had 19 sismos in the last 7 days! That didn't calm me at all!

I thought that I'd assimilated and processed all the sismo stuff until one afternoon last week, sitting at my table playing with Duolingo, an alarm went off in the tyre place across the street. I was up and grabbing things before I'd figured out it sounded nothing like the sismo alarm!

The fact is that from here on down south earthquakes are a real, if very rare, natural occurrence. It's yet another example of the concept meeting reality on this trip. I knew earthquakes were a possibility, but I'd never actually worked out what that meant.

I have now! 😄

So much detail......​

My "study" in the park ​

Perception is a funny thing. It makes us see things that are not there and ignore things that are. Let's face it, the perception is that México is a dangerous place and that drugs play a significant part in that.

Early one morning, just as the sun was rising, I was taking a wander down to the local park. The small streets I passed through on the way were still and quiet - a total contrast to the usual hive of activity buzzing about all the car workshops.

At a junction, I became aware of a noise (actually two) piercing the calm. There were two men shuffling down two streets, wearing hoodies, with bandanas over their faces and calling out a strange sound.

The sound was (and still is) unintelligible to me. A long "oooooooooooooh" that rises in pitch.

Now, every travelling trader has their own sound - the scrap metal collectors, the food sellers, the knife sharpener, so that in itself wasn't that unusual.

What was unusual, though, was that these guys had no obvious stock to sell.

Having read all the Famous Five and Secret Seven books, as well as some Hardy Boys as a kid, my brain is well configured to look into a mystery.

I could only come up with two possible answers.

The first was that these were looking for labour - walking around a neighbourhood, calling out and looking to round up a crew for a day's work. That's not so far fetched. I've seen a big group of men in the centre and I'm told they were waiting for various bosses to show up and hire them for the day.

The second was a bit more sinister - drug dealers, selling a little pep to people early on a working day.

The more I thought about it, the more logical it seemed that they were selling something illicit. Whatever they were selling it had to be very small and light - presumably it was on their person. They seemed to be scanning windows looking for a response - perhaps the actual transaction would take place at a regular location. In any case, if they were looking for workers they weren't having much joy.

This wonderful building is a part of the University​

Once I figured out what was going on I hotfooted out of there and down to the park.

A few mornings later, I had my answer. On the (main) road I live on I heard the exact same sounds, one on each side of the road. Bemused, I watched these guys slowly making their way down the road, loud and not shy. I was really interested now because they were walking directly towards a Police station! Is the corruption so bad in México that even here in the City criminals can brazenly carry out their business in plain view of the Police?

No. Not at all. A large pickup truck slowly drove past them and pulled in at the side of the road. The guys are selling bottled gas. The walkers let people know the gas truck is around and the guy in the truck does the deal!

I'm a dumbass!😊

When, one morning two trucks from two different companies were on the same street at the same time there were no rows over "territory", no gunfights. The street was just a bit louder as the walkers tried to outdo each other!

México is great!

Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day Whatever…….

On an evening walk a sports car turns the corner and is driving towards me, a strange turret shaped shadow on the roof. As it passes by the shadow comes to life - A St. Bernard's head is through the sunroof grinning as it surveys the neighbourhood!

Thunderstorms are frequent and of an intensity that is mesmerising! Often the clouds are dense and low so the lighting effect is muted - but that thunder? Deafening!

How often do you see a drain in the street operating as a fountain with water gushing up and out? After a rainstorm in this city it's surprisingly common!

At one of many streetside stalls a woman is displaying her small selection of snacks, electronic cables, chargers and loose cigarettes for sale. Beside her, a little girl, no more than four or five years of age is busy doing her schoolwork with a coloured pencil in a copybook.

There's something magical about Palm trees! They never fail to lift the spirits! ​

The thing about a bike tour is that no matter how well you plan it, things never go quite like you planned.

No, I'm not talking about Covid - I'm thinking of something far, far simpler - hair!

In my naivety, I thought I'd let my hair grow long on this jaunt and maybe have a ponytail - if you're going to look like a fool, might as well do it on the other side of the world! 😄

Well, it turns out long hair does not suit me!

For a start, the only ponytail I could make would be hanging down over my nose! The hair on the back of my head appears to grow at a tiny fraction of the rate of the hair on the front!

It irritates my eyes and gets in my mouth when I'm eating - yes! It's that long!

So, once I got my permit to stay, I ordered a clippers online. After waiting five weeks the order was cancelled!

Down to the big supermarket, some miming, a little Spanish and I walked home with a clippers.

I'm not the greatest with tools and it appears that extends to personal grooming tools!

I have very, very short hair now……. and a brand spanking new baseball cap! 😄

A scooter is referred to as "the devil's skateboard" 😄​

I'm one of those people that thinks dogs can smile (so if that annoys you, you can skip this paragraph 😀).

Why is this relevant? Because most dogs here that I've seen are like their owners - quick to smile, smile often and smile with more than just their mouths.

Dogs are everywhere here (thankfully hardly any cats 😀), wandering the narrow streets among the workshops, trotting on leads beside their owners walking, jogging or cycling, or best of all playing in the park.

Whether parks have facilities or not there are dogs. When the park does have facilities there are more dogs!

My local park has tunnels and seesaws - for the dogs! Another park seems to have two areas for dogs - one for big ones and one for the smallies.

You'll see everything in these areas - dogs playing fetch for balls, sticks, frisbees and dog toys of all shapes and sizes. What you won't see (or at least, I haven't yet) are dog fights!

I think it's amazing! One dog will rarely chase another's toy, and if they do, there's no aggression, no fighting, just playing!

Doggy section of a park with "friendly" activity 😄​

In my time here I think I've seen two acts of aggression - and both of those were from little dogs!

The other day, a poodle with fur clipped right back was doing everything it could to get at a bull terrier mix. Their respective owners were having a chat and yappy macyapface would not shut up!

The second was more sinister…

A Yorkshire Terrier stopped at a solid, steel gate and started yapping.

No biggy.

But he didn't stop. He kept going. Annoying.

The dog on the other side seemingly agreed and gave, to my non dog speaking ear, a one bark warning.

This only inspired the little terrier to greater insults and now started scrabbling at the gap below the gate.

Another warning bark was met with a fusilade of "your mother" insults (I'm getting good at this dog speak).

Finally, stung into action the big fella on the other side hurled himself at the gate barking ferociously and making the most vile threats against the terrier.

At which point, and this is totally true, the terrier seemed to stand on its tippy toes and proudly pranced away. Job done!

No matter how good your lock is, spokes can easily be snipped!​

Another day, another wonderful park.

I'd set off to clock up some decent kms on the bike but then I came to the park.

I don't understand how they do it, but even though this is a couple of minutes from a main thoroughfare, it oozes tranquility. Can the trees really absorb so much noise? The people (and the dogs of course! - there's always dogs!) are so tranquil too. There's an outdoor gym area, quite busy with a group of young men. Anywhere else I've lived there'd be shouting and roaring and typical "laddish" behaviour. Not here. In another area there's two games of soccer being played - on the same roughly marked out "pitch". People are standing around watching and cheering, but the vibe from the players is just that of a group of guys blowing out the cobwebs.

For this Irishman the lushness of the parks, the variety of the trees and the peace and calm within just emphasise that we're not in Kansas anymore

​

On the fringes of the park there's the choice of a classical or a jazz busking troupe.

I was supposed to be getting some exercise on the bike, but it seems sinful to leave this little piece of calm behind.

That's the problem with going out on the bike in these parts - there are just so many places to stop!

I feel a bit like a Lilliputian - I'm watching a huge giant slowly, gingerly wake up.

The virus is surging here on a literally unmeasurable scale - practically no testing is being done. Despite that the city is getting busier, without a doubt.

Whereas I saw no planes on my first visit, the numbers coming in to land are increasing daily.

The traffic has changed too. Now, heavier traffic is made up of newer model cars, SUVs and the like. A few weeks ago the traffic was noticeably older - heavily modified and repaired pickups, so common on the rural roads. They're still here, but swamped by the newer models. I'm reading that as the poorer folk had no opportunity but to go out and about in the earlier days of this virus.

My initial observations of civility amongst drivers has been slightly dented, too.

The number of stores, and especially restaurants, reopening is increasing too - although most of the restaurants are take-away only. A few have very limited seating.

Markets are reopening also. Some are in huge buildings, uncountable stalls selling food, clothes, electronics and just about anything the human mind can comprehend, others are on the side of the road, sometimes both sides!

Just about every country in Central and South America has had massive problems with these markets and the spreading of the virus. For a lot of people these are their sources of income or food. If you wanted to design a place to perfectly spread the virus, I think it would look a lot like one of these markets.

I'm staying away from them, unfortunately as I really don't want to get sick. It's a killer because I'd love to be buying my food there, practising my Spanish, chatting, browsing the incredible ranges of goods on offer and just observing human activity.

In fact, I've severely limited my outings because the virus is out of control here. I'll go out on the bike where I'm able to keep my distance from people, or go for a walk exploring the area - again limiting contact.

Sometimes I take my Spanish to the park and sit at one of a series of stone chess tables - they're off the path and no-one comes too close.

I do my shopping in the Supermarket because it's safer - although boring.

All this means that my interactions with people are a whole lot less than when I first arrived. I'm finding it frustrating, learning Spanish but having very limited opportunities to actually use it!

I've scrapped my idea of trying to do some voluntary work as I think it's just too risky. Right now I'm completely on my own in a huge city on the far side of the world from where I normally live. It's selfish perhaps, but I think the best thing I can do is not to fall ill.

México can be very colourful! If i tried this in NL the council would be banging down my door and demanding a change!​

One thing that is very noticable is the complete coverage of masks! Just about everyone is wearing one, some have a visor covering their face as well. I'm not aware of any significant hostility to the idea of mask wearing.

(I did read a report in a UK newspaper about widespread rejection of masks as a sign of resistance to Government elites but I see no evidence of that here in the Capital).

In fact, masks have been seized on as a way to make money and as fashion statements!

I can buy action hero masks, scary masks, traditional style artisanal masks (the most wonderful, bright colours) as well as a variety of medical style masks. I can buy them in pharmacies or from any number of sellers on the street.

I have no doubt that most being sold to a medical standard are nothing of the sort, but I find it interesting that how the approach differs from north of the border.

In a fine example of dark humour I can even buy a facemask with the Corona (beer) logo!

There are official posters up advising people to stay home, if possible. There are also homemade posters up on people's houses, on streets, painted on walls asking people to do the same. There seems to be a sense of "we're all in this together".

From my own perspective, I'm starting to get worried about a "second wave" in the winter. If these things are normally worse than the first, then there are going to be big, big problems in this part of the world.

I was reading somewhere recently that 50% of people are employed in the "informal" economy - no salary, no insurance, no pension and certainly no support in this situation. They have little alternative except work and since they earn day to day need to buy food every day - they don't have the money to buy in bulk. These two factors make the virus next nigh to impossible to control.

(This situation is replicated to a greater or lesser extent right through the continent).

I wouldn't be at all surprised to see serious social unrest in these parts during a second, winter wave. I certainly don't want to be on the road for that!

Thankfully, I can slake my wanderlust thirst by wandering these little streets.​

Despite the situation, the vibe in the city is nothing but friendly!

The few interactions I have with people leave me feeling warm and welcomed. I do have a few food places that I visit for dinner and the people are patient, understanding and naturally friendly. I'm well able to talk now, at least about the basics, but I'm struggling with listening and comprehending. And they say that Mexican Spanish is the slowest of all the dialects! Uh oh!

I have no idea if this is a "new" or an "old" door, but I think it's fabulous! ​

A couple of tales from a bike ride the other day…..

I found the most wonderful old church, built right on a river, beside a fantastic old bridge. I'd spent about 15 or 20 minutes exploring the outside (the church was closed) and was setting off along a little, cobbled street, my head swiveling this way and that trying to see everything. A car coming up behind me gave a friendly warning toot (in fairness, I was bouncing along on the wrong side of the road!) shocking me and causing me to have a serious wobble outside a house with an armed policeman. (For armed, read holding a feckin' big machine gun!). I caught his eye as I tried to right myself and he was beaming at me from ear to ear. It's hard to take the machine gun seriously after that!


A little later I was riding down another little street and taking lots and lots of photos - there were so many old doors and gates. At one stage, trying to get a particularly attractive gate into focus I was blissfully unaware of a car approaching from behind. He just stopped and waited for me to take my pic without his car in the way and with a big smile waved away my apologies when I realised I was holding him up.

México is great!

Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day whatever……

It's a little after rush hour, just outside the centre and on a street with three lanes (the middle one is a bus lane) two young lads are playing, what in Ireland we call handball, basically a primitive form of squash, up against the wall of a building, using their hands as rackets.
They're dodging the cars, trucks, buses and bicycles as they hammer the ball above the pedestrians walking in front of the wall.
Nobody bats an eye. Yes, the bus driver honks his horn - but he does that all the time as a warning that he's coming.
Nobody yells at them. Nobody swears at them. The only raised voices are the two young lads and their infectious laughter!
What word adequately describes the craziness and the recklessness of the situation yet also captures the reaction of society - "ah, it's just two young lads having some fun. Let them be"?
I can't come up with one.

I'm on the bike travelling down a busy three lane, one way street. Approaching me is a girl on a fat bike, bright and gleaming, bounding along beside her is what I call a Dulux dog (featured in ads for paint) - a big, shaggy dog if you're not familiar with them. Happy Shaggy dog has no lead, no physical connection to his mistress. The two of them sail past me, on the wrong side of the busy road without a care in the world - and the world reciprocates.

I've said before the road outside my apartment is one of the main routes into the city centre. As such, it tends to be busy and noisy so stop for a moment and think about how happy the motorbike rider must have been that I can hear him singing as he chugs down the street. And yes, he was wearing a helmet!

Along an almost dried up river and beside a bridge, I notice a pot hanging from an emaciated tree. A closer look reveals rice, still in the pot. A little further investigation reveals bags with clothing, a blanket, a fireplace. This is someone's home.

Heart warming is not just an expression, here in Mexico it's a reality.
There are very few days that I go out and don't have an encounter that is like central heating for the soul. Hell, there are days that I witness things from the balcony of the apartment that would melt an iceberg.

It seems to come down to one (or possibly two interlinked) things. People smile, almost by reflex it seems.

And if there's a second element it's that people seem to give the benefit of the doubt. They don't just assume you're a plonker - they give you all the time to prove it - in the meantime they smile.

There are some fantastic old cars in these parts. Some falling to pieces, some in great condition and some restored. ​

I went back to have a look and it was the second day after crossing the border that smiles started to get a mention in this travelogue. Well, it's eight months later and they're still coming thick and fast!

The thing is, practically everyone is wearing a mask, but people here don't just smile with their mouths. It's a whole face effort! Eyes sparkle, facemasks move and warmth just flows.

Weaving through traffic at a stoplight I have to hit the brakes when a guy steps out in front of me. I'm in the wrong, he's in the wrong, anywhere else it's 50:50 if he yells at me. Here, it's a big smile.

Slowly wandering down a traffic free street, a girl steps out in front of me. I hit the brakes as does she. I motion with my head that she should continue and am rewarded with an almost blinding beam.

Twice now, I've been engrossed in trying to take a photo and a car has stopped so as not to get in my way! The second time it was a woman with two kids in the back and instead of rushing me, she wound down her window and waved and smiled when she drove past! Pretty much anywhere else I've cycled I would have been blasted with a horn, abuse and maybe even made into an interesting mounting on someone's wall!

It's hard to describe the feeling when coming across these streets, then setting off down them......kids and Christmas come to mind.... ​

In the run up to my application to stay here longer I was thinking about what I'd do in the big city for months.
One thing I'd decided to do was to track down all the churches and create a few routes so I could cycle to all of them.
Ha! Dumbass! 😀
Do you have any idea how many churches there are in this city?!! Bazillions!

The fact is, the idea of trying to replicate the "cycle touring" experience in this city is just not going to work for me! I used to be able to don my touring head for a 4:30 am commute in winter - but I can't do it here!

There's two reasons.

The first is that cycling here requires a reasonable amount of concentration, especially now that the city is getting busier. Traffic, obviously is a factor, although it's very well behaved in general. More of an issue is the road quality - inconsistent is the kindest I can be - speed bumps, broken or absent drain covers, the other cyclists, dogs (and their walkers!), and anyone else wanting to jump lights or just travel on the wrong side of the road. Throw in the fact that it's rainy season here with a hefty deluge daily and all the road issues can be hidden under several inches of water! Focusing the whole time on the road in front of me at the expense of what's around me and not letting my mind wander wherever it will just is not my touring style.

If that sounds like a complaint, it's not.

Traffic Jam! ​

The second reason is that there are just so many interesting scenes that deserve to be absorbed, felt and placed firmly in memory.

Perhaps my poor head is turning to mush after so long off the road and too much time in my own, but it's like this city is inhabited with Loreleis calling out to me on almost every street and sometimes several times on the same street. Maybe it makes me some kind of a tramp but I can't help responding to her call.

Lorelei was calling Juliet-like from this balcony! ​

One day, I set off deliberately to do a 50km route. After half an hour I'd covered less than 2km. There was a church that needed exploring (bear in mind the church wasn't actually open - I was just looking at the outside!), there was a crazy junction with a beautiful building, there was a large market, so I made a big circle trying to stay as far away as possible but also trying to see as much as possible. And Palm trees! So. Many. Palm. Trees.
To me, they're magical!

Then I found a park and I lost a couple of hours in it, wandering, people watching, dog watching.
At that stage the afternoon was almost over, I could feel the humidity shooting up - a sure sign of incoming rain - so I headed in the direction of home, having done 5.5 km!
There was a lot of stopping on the way home too until the big drops started to fall - then it was time to mush.

I tried to chastise myself for not doing a "big" ride, but I couldn't even do that!

This place is exceptional and deserves to be treated exceptionally!

In line with this new philosophy, I've scrapped the idea of plotting routes to churches. Instead I follow my nose. I pick a street and at the next junction I'll choose which direction. If I get a sniff that a church is somewhere around, I'll mosey off and explore.

I'm back to being an explorer and I like it that way!

At the start I'll have an idea where I am and which direction I'm going, but after a while with all the twists and turns I'm totally lost! And it feels good! Darn good!

Correction: I am not lost - I just don't know where I am. And it does not matter.

I "discovered" this beauty!​

I do miss the "proper" cycling though, the meditative rhythm of the pedals is good for body and mind. I'm getting a bit cuddly and could do with a bit more exercise. For the moment, though, I'm happy enough to say feck the cycling I'm going to soak up as much of this wonderful city as I can

There's a wonderful old town not too far away from me that, at the moment defies description. It's full of history and beauty, tempting aromas and mysterious little streets, a wonderful and decrepit church and, of course a park (actually it has several). Every time I go back I see something new - so I keep going back.
(This place has touched me in places I've never been touched before - oooh Matron! - and I'm well on the way to writing it up, but it's not ready yet).

One day, however, I pushed myself away from there and into another area. It's a wonder I ever got out!

For a start, the streets were cobbled - with boulders, it seemed! I was bounced around on the bike as I explored. I had no destination in mind, just followed a street until I came to a junction, then picked another one. Sometimes, I doubled back to take a different option at the previous junction and it says a lot for the character and beauty of the streets that the same street was captivating from the different perspective.

I can bounce down here, bounce back up, then go left or right. Time and direction mean nothing - my kind of travelling​

That's how I got to have my first proper conversation in a while!

I'd arrived at a little round courtyard, a fountain in the centre, and was admiring what seemed to be a very old gate into the town between two fine old buildings. However a date engraved over the gate was causing me problems - MMI seemed to be saying 2001, but possibly, it was some kind of a reference to México?

The fountain, the gate and the gardener​

That's when a gardener working on some flowerbeds downed tools and came over for a chat!

Yes, the "gate" was from 2001, the whole area had been done up or renovated and restored. Despite not knowing what was fake and what was real, this courtyard area was still stunningly beautiful.

I asked a question and when he responded I asked another.

When he found out where I was from, we had a chat about the Irish involvement in the US - Mexican war. Irish soldiers in the American army, horrified to find themselves fighting in an empire building army against Catholics, promptly swapped sides, became known as the San Patricios, and fought with distinction, although it was ultimately futile.

When the American army occupied Mexico city they were actually in this area!

(On a side note to emphasise what a small world we inhabit, the former plantation house I stayed in back in Natchez, was originally owned by the man who led the US forces all the way to here!)

The river's long gone.... but the bridge remains. ​

Then the conversation drifted into the role of Mexicans in the US army (it's often a way to gain citizenship), the poor treatment they often received and how their input has been pretty much underappreciated.

My new friend wasn't from Mexico city - he had moved here for work a long, long time ago. He hadn't much education, but he read about history. He loved history. His two sons were teachers, possibly university lecturers, and there was no denying his obvious pride in their achievements.

I reckon I understood about half of what he was telling me, but he was very kind and patient with my questions. All in all, the conversation went on for about 20-30 minutes. I wanted to listen more - he was very interesting - but the concentration required was exhausting!

At the end, he apologised for taking up so much of my time!

I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the neighbourhood, delighted to be wandering around and definitely uplifted to have had such a wonderful experience - the old city gate may have been fake, but the conversation was proof that my time here in México is opening real gates to this part of the world.

If I haven't said it before…. México is feckin' great!

Where's Mazi? ​

This popped up on my ipod this evening. Haven't heard it in a while, but darn if it doesn't hit the spot!

View: https://youtu.be/pItL80swzFs


Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

August 22, 2020 Capilla de San Antonio de Padua. Not a whatever day.

Something a little different today.

I have deliberately stopped myself from looking too far into the future. I'm of the opinion that we are living in such strange times that forward planning is a fool's errand and that anticipation, followed by disappointment, is really not good for the soul.

However, there is one thing I can't stop myself getting excited about - El Día de Muertos - The Day of the Dead.

Not that long ago the idea of the living mixing with the dead would have put the terror of God in me. The typical "sights" of el Día de Muertos would scare the bejaysus out of me. Now, it's something that I'm looking forward to experiencing.

So yesterday as part of my new policy of weekends are for weekend stuff, I had visited my most favourite church here (closed by Covid), had a little chat with the man selling his wares outside and was sitting on one of the oldest bridges in all of México just watching the world go by.

Then this vision appeared (ok, out of a car, but an appearance nonetheless!)

I talked to her and asked her permission to take this photo.


There are no more words.

(Well, except to say that there are no "tattoo sleeves" or any other trickery - it took seven hours to do that make-up!)


Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day Blahdiblahdiblah

Scenes from México City:

On a narrow, cobbled street I hear a commotion and turning around I'm met with the sight of two ferocious looking dogs hammering towards me. As American flashbacks start to explode in my head I see a third character - an older man grimacing while holding onto two leads…..and sitting atop a battered mountain bike.
They blew past me in a fury of panting and turned a sharp right at the end of the street. I've no idea if that was the plan or if the dogs just wanted to go that way!


Weaving in and out of stalled traffic near the city centre is not as dangerous as it might sound. It may seem ridiculous, but there's a pleasant vibe from the traffic, normally. But one car was different.
Four men in suits looking very, very serious. Something wasn't sitting right with me as I pedalled slowly by.
Then one of the men in the back started gesticulating wildly at me to move on. Then I figured out what wasn't sitting well with me - the guys in the back were sitting facing the doors. Bodyguards! I hightailed it out of there. Given the angles of the rear seat passengers I reckon the back seat had been modified to allow for 360 degree views.


Dogs are everywhere here. And so well behaved!
One day I saw a labrador type sitting anxiously at the bottom of the stairs of a walkway to cross a busy road. His master was walking slowly up the steps. At the first landing he turned, gave a signal to the dog who responded with pure joy to bound up the stairs, only for the process to be repeated for the next level.
Another day in a park an older gentleman strode past me and about 10 meters behind him two shaggy spaniels were diligently following his footsteps. They remained so close to each other it seemed they were joined at the chest.
And the last doggy story of the day. Watching a lady with a little puppy on a lead cross the busy road in front of my apartment when puppy suddenly jams on the brakes as only a puppy can! The reaction of the traffic? They stopped. Not a horn to be heard. A few words from Mistress, a gentle tug on the lead puppy toddles off to safety and the traffic resumes.


For months now, I've been telling folks here that myself and my tiger are having a big adventure. After all, "aventura" is not a difficult Spanish word to remember. I've even told people that I was looking for someone soft to have an "aventura" with in Mazatlán!

Some people have even suggested that I might prefer a female to have my "aventura" with. Nooooooo! I reply! A tiger is best!

Today, August 26, almost 8 months after crossing the border, and 8 months of using "aventura" proudly and with wild abandon, I discover that to have an aventura is also to have an affair!

And to think! Hobbes left me to have his own "aventura"!!!

Apparently, we're having an affair​

It's the little things here that get their claws into me and and make me appreciate this place.
For example, there are some very, very big roads here. Multi lane, high speed dual carriageways bisecting the city. I'll occasionally bump up against one and with no hope of crossing it, I'll set off on the footpath (bike or no) in the direction of the traffic flow looking for a crossing point.

What this means is that at some point I'll come across a slip road to let traffic on.

From a driver's perspective, you're not going to want to stop before merging with the fairly speedy main road, yet they do. Without fail. Every. Single. Time.

I doubt if more than 10 cars have gone past me in this situation without one stopping and waving me across - normally it's about three! And with a smile.

This is someone's house! Not a school or a store or some business looking for attention. How wonderfully cheerful!​

A few weeks ago I'd planned to take a peek at the local market. It's along one side of the park and there is lots of space, so it's relatively Covid safe. The only problem when I went down was that I had missed it by a day - the perils of a Covid influenced life.

I decided there and then that something had to change - no more of one day merging with the next. I decided I was going to treat my Spanish as a more professional endeavour, follow a rigid schedule - and treat weekends as weekends.

It's working surprisingly well!

Last Sunday I got to see the inside of a church for the first time in months!
It's the church of the Parroquia San Juan Bautista and even from the back, hemmed in by tape it's a beautiful, inspiring building.

I had a run in with the Police! Not really paying attention to the fact that there were three Police cars pulled up outside a house, I meandered down, taking photos of trees, and doors and sometimes whole houses. That's what sparked their interest!
In a not terribly friendly manner I received a mild interrogation and was warned off taking photos!
More than a little miffed, I set off again but as I walked I started to think.
Three Police cars parked up like that was a sign that something was going down - most likely someone deserving of protection either at home or visiting someone.
Secondly, security here is not like security elsewhere. A few weeks ago, a group of Cartel members attacked the city's Chief of Police in broad daylight in the city. A Policeman nervous of someone seemingly snapping the whole street is perfectly understandable.
Thirdly, I dealt with the whole thing in Spanish!
By the end of the street it wasn't such a bad thing to have happened, after all!

You just have to love (or at least I do!) a place that leaves this tree in situ!​

Of course, I also got to meet "Catarina" (from the last post) a definite highlight of my little adventure so far!

I also went, willingly, into a large Shopping Mall - and enjoyed the experience.
I'd been walking down a reasonably busy road, meandering down side streets then popping back out again further down.
The contrast between the busy road and the ever smaller side streets was wonderful and on occasion, like jumping through time.
Near a major junction on this road, a bright, shiny, modern Shopping Mall stood out, an electronic board advertising Calvin Klein. Other big signs advertised other brands - Forever 21, Pottery Barn, and lots more that I couldn't be bothered to remember.
This sight seemed so at odds with what I had just seen, I had no choice but to investigate! On entry, just like nearly all the shops, there is someone to take my temperature, place a dollop of alcoholic gel in my hands and encourage me to wipe my feet on the special mat.
I'm not a fan of shopping, even less of a fan of shopping emporia like this one was, but I found it fascinating! A multi-level mini city, with a lake and a fountain show!
It was clean, and shiny, and luxurious and……….. utterly horrifying!

It's just another example of the ease I can slip from one world into another in this great city.

Especially for all those suffering from OCD​

On that same theme…..

This photo will never win any awards but already it is one of my favourite ever.
What's not clear from the photo is that the road directly in front consists of 8 lanes and every time I have seen this road it is very, very busy - and getting busier! It is University Avenue and is one of the main thoroughfares into and out of the centre.
What I love about this photo is that within it it has one of the great characteristics of this wonderful City;

Very simply the jump from chaos to tranquility in a few short metres.

The dual carriageway in the back of the photo is very lightly trafficked and has a footpath down either side that has been heavily planted with bushes and trees.
As you step off the University Avenue and set off down the footpath, the traffic noise falls away as quickly as a lift drops you from one floor to the next.
It's a bit like stepping out the back of a wardrobe and finding yourself in another world.
From chaos to tranquillity, literally, in a few steps. At the right time of the day even the birds are singing in the trees overhead!
It's for a writer much better than me to describe the sensation of transitioning from the chaos and the danger of that main road to the tranquility and the security of that side road. But the effect? It's incredible! It's rejuvenating! It's uplifting! It's a physical exercise I can do that demonstrates that peace and calm can literally be a few steps away.

If there's one thing I want to grab onto, hold onto and never let go of, it's that feeling that peace, tranquility, whatever you want to call it, if lost, is just around the next corner or across that road.

And this phenomenon is repeated again and again all over this city. It may not be a tree-lined road, it could just as easily be an old, narrow, cobbled street with houses of all ages, styles and grandeur but the effect is the same. I step into the wardrobe in chaos and emerge in Narnia.

This enticing little street is only a couple of minutes stroll from the chaos of a dual carriageway​

In other parts of the city it's the transformation between modern and old. By far and away I prefer the old, but sometimes I have to be impressed with the modern. Occasionally, I get to see something like this.

This photo has been enhanced to remove sun reflection on the tall building - sorry but I wasn't waiting hours for the earth's rotation to reduce the glare

I can't tell you how many times wandering around on the bike I'll arrive at some demented boyscout's knot of a junction with traffic flying above, below and all around me. Having no destination and no haste I'll follow my nose away from the chaos and before I know it I'm (probably bouncing!) down a little street or road and the crazy junction doesn't exist anymore.

Another way to get-away-from-it-all while still being in the middle of it all is on one of the mixed use paths down the centre of the busy road.
Normally with trees, flowers and bushes they are incredibly effective at smothering the noise and providing a safe and stress free way of negotiating the busy roads.
You meet all the usual suspects here - pedestrians, dog walkers (and dog joggers), cyclists, street vendors, none of whom are following any semblance of directional convention, but it just works!
These are everywhere but it's taken me a while to notice all of them! I'm easily distracted!

What a fabulous way to make your way along a busy road!​

Enhanced image because of contrast issues

I'm a fan of the old VW vans. There's something incredibly romantic about the idea of heading off on an adventure in one of those.
VW have a big presence in México so it's no surprise that there are plenty around here. Nearly all of them are "working" vans transporting cargo, although I've seen some that have been modified to be mobile kitchens or collectivo (communal) taxi-buses in some of the smaller places.

But this one is special!

It's right around the corner from me and hasn't moved an inch in all the time I've been here.

It's a workshop.

Inside are all the tools, parts and various bits and pieces utilising the chaos theory of storage.
The painted sign seems to suggest he does electrical work, but I've only seen him do metal work - frames for desks or bespoke supports etc. - right there on the street! Welding parts together, sawing parts off, sparks flying everywhere and traffic sometimes taking a wide pass, sometimes not.
If there was a place I could stand and blend in I could watch the work all day. As it is, I have to walk up and down watching the project develop, something added or amended with each pass.
During the day, he's wired for electricity - a perilous looking connection at the bottom of the pole. I've no idea if that's an official connection or not but it's removed overnight. I'm yet to catch him at the right time so see how he actually does it!

If I haven't said it in a while, México isn't just beautiful and lively, it's feckin' great!!

Enhanced photo because a phone camera does not do the colours justice!

** I've recently come across a decent photo editor that does a decent job on a phone. To date i don't think I've used any enhanced photos before (maybe a few were adjusted for light). Going on, if I post any photos here that are enhanced I'll be signifying that fact.

Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Sunday, August 30, 2020

A little recap!

It was on this date one year ago that I handed over the keys of my lovely house and with quite a bit of trepidation started this little adventure!

With that in mind here's ten photos that summarise the trip😊

Sea View

South Carolina

Appalachia

The Feckin' Mississippi!

The greatest little road in all of Texas!

Mmmmmm Mexican Mountains!

Mexican Country Roads

The Pacific!

Aporo

México City - CDMX - The unexpected gift!

Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/