The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, July 13, 2021, Gracias to San Juan 35 km Total KM 2477
Min meters 745, Max Meters 1347
Total Climb 951 Total Descent 551
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 27

Gracias, Gracias

Pushing through town I got a lot of stares. A lot of smiles, but a lot of stares. Fire off a bright and cheery "Buenas" and it'll be returned. The stares remain, but the eyes are warmer.

Outside of Gracias and heading up. There's no way to tell from the sky what is going to happen

​

By my reckoning I had a bit of a flat section and then uphill almost until the end of the day. Now, I'm not the best at directions, reading maps or interpreting gradients on Gizmo but Honduras doesn't seem to like being broken down into a series of climbs and descents and she rebels, throwing all kinds of gradients at me. I can respect that, especially when I sweep out of Gracias accumulating more stares and calls.
Thank the Touring Gods there were no bystanders when the road rose ahead of me and my sweeping was reduced to a crawl.

Fifteen minutes later, more blue. Still can't predict the weather though.

​

I breezed through a Police checkpoint and stopped when an old US school bus labouring in front of me was belching black smoke all over me. Then off again into the mountain air.
Here, like Guatemala, these buses are used as public transport, but in their original state and colours, often with the school district still painted on the bus.

I had been late leaving the hotel, or at least later than I wanted. The hotel included breakfast and since I enjoyed my own coffee before the restaurant opened I thought "what the hell".
Now I was scanning the scrambled sky looking to interpret the weather. Bits of blue scattered amongst the clouds meant warm, not hot. At least for now. I settled down to climbing.

Fifteen minutes later even more blue!

​

This road had few guardrails or walls to stop, but it also had very little traffic. Very little.
The birds! They chatted about me, called out to me and I'm sure some of them were mocking me. I can't see them, but they sound wonderful.
The traffic that did pass was predominantly friendly - very friendly - Mexican friendly. A toot isn't just a toot - it's normally accompanied by a wound down window and wave. There's a bit of effort in it.

I'm really developing a taste for painted ads.

​

So that's how my morning progressed - slowly ascending in a warm, friendly place. I was getting the steepest section out of the way first. When the road levelled off I pulled into a shop that had a rickety bench in front of it and a Police pick up beside it.

I bought a cold drink and a bottle of water to top up my supply from a very cheerful and smiley girl. To add the two amounts she needed a calculator - very common in these parts, although a phone is usually used.
As I sat and rested the Police came over and I was interrogated - in a friendly way. One guy was particularly curious about my gear so I explained what was in each pannier and invited him to lift the bike. They all did! Apparently, I am "The Man"!
I've read somewhere that a major purge was carried out on the Police to curb corruption and that a lot of the Police are young. That tallied with the four today. Fist bumps and wishes for a good journey when they left. They passed me on the road twice, each time horns and waves.

Right beside the road. I can reach out and touch.

​

I got rolling again and was soon climbing again, although not as steep as earlier. Sun out, I was heating up but in no rush whatsoever. There are views that deserve to be remembered, villages where people smile and wave and dogs that rarely do much more than look at me. There are also crabs! I couldn't believe my eyes when I spotted one at the side of the road - as familiar to me as if I was on a European beach. Except I'm in the Honduran highlands and he's on the road!

Why would I want to rush through this?

​

Spotting a shop on one side of the road and a lean to offering shade on my side I pulled over for another cold drink. There's something about a cold drink that is just so good. Spotting a small pack of my favourite cookies I treated myself. A group of 10 kids eyed me up curiously while I was in the shop and by the time I left had gathered on the steps below the shop. There'd be no shade for me! I sat down beside them.
The youngest was a little girl, no more than three who had just lost her baby teeth, the eldest about 8, two girls, the rest boys. They just looked at me. So I looked back at them.
I broke the ice. "Do you have any questions?". A trickle started, then the dam broke!
About me, the bike, the gear, the journey. The thing with kids is you never know what they're going to ask!
The youngest girl was pulling at the hairbands on my handlebars and asked about them. I explained they were for my brakes and went to explain how I used them. Once she realised they weren't for hair or for playing with she just tuned out!
I passed the cookies around and never saw them again!
Two women up in the shop joined in. The idea that I was going to San Juan (not far away now) was ok, the idea of tomorrow going to La Esperanza was shocking - despite me explaining about travelling from Virginia. Too far they thought!
It was a very pleasant half hour or so.

Passing through a little village.

​

Back on the bike I crossed a pretty, stoney river and started the last climb of the day. A guy in a pickup stopped for a chat. If I'd been concentrating more on what he was doing rather than my Spanish I'd have noticed that he was busy covering things in the bed of his pickup with a tarp!
Then it rained, albeit lightly. I decided I didn't need my rain jacket and I didn't for a while - but then I did! It wasn't long on when the rain stopped and I hit the top in bright sunshine! Spotting a wall I pulled up, spread the jacket to dry and walked down to a shop then back for a roadside picnic. In the sun, a descent ahead of me, it felt good!

Because the road was so quiet I pulled up on this bridge to enjoy the water bubbling away below me.

​

Everything changes here so quickly and I got a fright back on the bike when I rounded a bend to a cloud so big, so dark, so angry that it was almost purple. I flew down the hill to the small town of San Juan. I found a new, cheap hotel, had a shower and went off to explore. It has a small park, pretty, a simple but bright church and not a lot else.

The park in San Juan. Small, but quirky. The wibbly wobbly staircase is a bandstand.

​

I returned to the hotel and a good friend has sent me a concert that I fell asleep while downloading. The rain woke me up - ferocious unlike earlier. I waited for it to stop then grabbed a bite. Early night for me!

Artwork outside a store in San Juan. The shopkeeper stepped away so as not to interfere with the shot. I couldn't see an artist's name - unusual.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, July 14, 2021, San Juan to La Esperanza 47 km Total KM 2524
Min meters 1060, Max Meters 1933
Total Climb 1349 Total Descent 873
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 28

To the highest town in Honduras!

I should have realised last night when I saw a plaque in the road commemorating the new road between Gracias and San Juan that maybe that was a sign of things to come! There was a serious degradation of quality today but truth be told it made little difference as traffic was light and I was mostly ascending.

A particularly poor section of road but an indication of what I can face around any bend. Traffic weaves all over the place which I have decided is fun!

​

These Honduran towns lack a little of the chaos of their Mexican counterparts. It's there, but more muted or less expressive. Perhaps I'm a bad cycle tourist but I do enjoy sweeping down and out of these little towns. Men look enviously at me, the women lustfully (or at least that's how I interpret it). Much more preferable to huffing and puffing up and out of these towns!

On the way out of town. If this were México there would be a riot of noise, delicious aromas and just a much higher level of activity.

​

I'd about 10km to go then up. After that a drop, then up again - 500 meters up. At that stage the worst would be over, although one final "bump" could be the end of me! It's less than 50km all told, but 1300 meters of climbing.

I was going to skip coffee this morning but didn't. I even forced a little oatmeal down. Maybe not a great idea as my belly started to feel unwell. Again.

Getting into an early, gentle climb. Mildly threatening (but cooling) clouds, trees, cliffs and the ever present mountains were my day.

​

This wasn't a spectacular day's riding by any stretch but it was pleasant, interesting and friendly.
There was a familiarity to the landscape with lots of pine trees but the occasional banana tree or something as exotic mixed in meant I was never bored. In areas of "local" flora the birds were active and loud, in the pine areas much less so.
The variable road quality made for interesting manoeuvres, mine and others. Traffic on the wrong side of the road avoiding potholes could liven up any bend!

With light traffic I can safely pull up at a few more bridges. I passed quite a while here alternating between waving at passing traffic and admiring the sun on the trees.

​

Several times cars stopped to see if I was ok, needed anything and one man (with wife and baby in the cab of his pickup) was quite insistent on me throwing everything into the back of his truck for a lift! Probably one of the friendlist days on the road.

Never boring though! There is always something interesting around a bend. This little stream was making beautiful noise rushing down over rocks.

​

I stopped to rest and water up before the big climb. My belly was at me and the thought of food was not pleasant. Not the best way to be facing into a big climb.
In fairness, the gradients weren't too steep and I made steady progress rewarding myself with a pause half way up.
Like Guatemala, a lot of the land is used to quarry ingredients for blocks. There was evidence of quarries all around, some places that made blocks and even on a couple of occasions men hacking away with iron bars on the side of the road. Tough work!
The only vehicle nearby was a motorbike which did make me wonder. Were they working for themselves or for someone who would drive up later for a pile of rock? Just how organised (and safe was this? After all they were hacking away at a cliff on the side of the road.

I wasn't feeling great, the sun was out and cooking me but the colours are real but to me, this road is just calling out to be explored!

​

The sun was out and hot, although there was a lot of cloud movement. Natural shade (tree or cliff) was limited and rare but sometimes a cloud over the sun was a beautiful relief! I could be stopped, straddling the bike enjoying the drop in temperature and see the sun chasing the shadow towards me.
Drinking was complicated; when I raised the bottle to my lips my throat was chanting "Guzzle! Guzzle! Guzzle!", but my belly was growling ominously "Go ahead and try!" Sipping a little and often was the compromise.
While my belly never erupted in outright cramp it definitely generated discomfort.

The second half of the climb I broke into two halves and then it was over. I had a flat section, a "hump" and then downhill to La Esperanza - the highest town in Honduras!

The sun does do wonderful things to the landscape!

​

It felt good to be going along on a "flat" road but now my belly was really uncomfortable. I didn't know if it was the lack of food or something else but decided some fuel was needed. I pulled in to a little store for some bread and something cold to drink. Yucky bread with peanut butter didn't kill me so I continued on through the village of Yamaranguila. Not far now, one last climb...... but the sky! Like yesterday it was looking unnaturally angry. Spotting a covered bus stop I pulled up just before the rain started. I decided to wait it out.

A kerb on my side, shade on the other so I sat in the rain gulley. A car and a pickup stopped to check on me.

​

D'aniel was sitting beside me and offered me an energy drink, clarifying that it was a gift. I declined, graciously. I've never had an energy drink (unless we count coffee or coke) and I didn't want to introduce new things to a sensitive belly.
D'aniel was excellent company and we chatted through the rain showers. From a different part of Honduras down here to train the guys in a new filling station across the road he wasn't offended when I said that I miss Mexican food. He didn't like the food around here either!
After an hour it was getting on and D'aniel was getting worried for me. With some unfounded confidence I pointed to a patch of blue amongst all the clouds and said "watch". Sure enough, it got bigger and bigger so I could set off again.

The shadows of the clouds are clearly visible. On the road they were so pleasant. It amazes me the effect they can have.

​

The hump was tough on the way up, a delight on the way down. The rain had disguised some of the potholes but that didn't bother the local traffic. An oncoming pickup who I assume wasn't local hit a deep one at a decent speed sending a spray of water right across the road and making an almighty din as everything in the truck took flight!

La Esperanza is actually the merging of two towns with very narrow streets. I skipped looking for a hotel because I was on a mission to find a hostel that allowed camping. Located, checked in, I went off looking for eggs for dinner (I had a craving) but no joy. Instead it was a simple, sad meal of noodles. Then an early night. I do love sleeping in my tent!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 15, 2021, La Esperanza to Jesus de Otoro 40 km Total KM 2564
Min meters 595, Max Meters 1866
Total Climb 258 Total Descent 1325
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 31

Being kind to myself

Something ate me alive last night. This morning from ankle to thigh on both legs I was covered in red, angry bites.
There were no midnight emergency runs to the bathroom though! Just as well because they were a long way from the tent and somewhere along the line I've lost my headtorch. I'm really peeed off with myself. I've had it for years and now I don't with no idea when, or how, I lost it.

I'd woken up twice during the night, once about 12:30 for gunshots and once about 4, possibly as I was being devoured! As a result I overslept, waking about 6am to bright sunlight! Uh oh! That's early!

This was my road out of town! A few young lads ran beside me asking where was I going . They laughed when I said Argentina - then I hit a roadblock and understood their laughter! A detour through the centre had me caught in the market street! I thought I was never going to get out!

​

Slow, sluggish and frankly bemused by the state of my legs I got up and organised. At least the hostel had a big, big, pot of strong coffee that perked me up. I had an interesting chat with a guy from Ecuador, a digital nomad. A graphic designer by trade, he's been travelling for quite a while.
By rights I should have made my excuses and left but it was an interesting conversation so I just had some more coffee.

Very healthy, green looking land.

​

It was about 9am when I was leaving, very late by my standards but today was a tricky day. The next big town us about 70km away but there's a straight 800 meter climb right before it. Unless I left in the middle of the night I'm going to be doing that climb in the full heat of the day.
Osmand shows a campsite at the last small town before the climb. That might suit me better.

Pine trees might be very familiar to me but I just love what's mixed in between them!

​

Off I went, fueled on coffee and a raisin bread thingy that I bought yesterday While still not 100%, the belly was behaving. You wouldn't think it, but getting out of town was tough! First, a backroad was blocked, then I hit a street market! Eventually, I got onto the road I wanted and set off into a climb. I'd go up a bit and then I'd have a long, long drop.

Even though the sun had been out for quite a while, it didn't feel particularly warm. At least not when I wasn't working hard. Most of the land I passed was being used for agriculture. I saw cattle and horses today in fine fettle, looking healthier than their Guatemalan or Mexican cousins.

When there were fewer trees there was farmland. Pasture looked decent and animals were the healthiest I have seen since Texas.

​

I arrived at a lake just before the descent that had some food places and decided that now might be the time for some simple food. I pulled in and had a surprisingly enjoyable breakfast looking over the lake. I became quite cold eating breakfast.

Setting off again I was ready for a long, fast, thrilling, sweeping descent. Ha! Dumbass! I was cold too despite Gizmo reading mid twenties.

A woman told me that there are fish in the lake and in the mornings they are jumping all over feeding on the flies. I was sorely tempted to ask if they had a place for my tent.

​

The road, as bad as yesterday until now, became positively lunar. Potholes became lakeholes, cracks became trenches, loose gravel became boulders. 'T'was mad! But fun! Traffic went everywhere to avoid the worst. Sometimes, one driver would seize their chance for a cute overtake when a (normally) car changed lanes a pickup behind would power up and bounce over whatever flaw existed in the road. It wasn't that there was a lot of traffic, it was just that oncoming traffic tended to arrive in bunches. This was no fast descent!

Sorry! I just love the blending of the familiar and the exotic!

​

Once I realised how slow I was going I pretty much gave up on the idea of doing the big climb and decided to enjoy myself.
There were precious few places to stop on my side so I often used the other side. Sometimes, just straddling the bike and enjoying the scene was enough.

Sometimes only a roadshot will do! Cycling through these trees was glorious, if a little treacherous. The trees offered dappled shade from the sun which camouflaged the holes in the road. No birds though.

​

I was now in big, tall tree country with a river valley on my left - when I could see it through the trees. Like yesterday, there was precious little birdsong from the trees.
There were also a lot of cliffs and evidence of rockfalls. Twice, entrepreneurs had set themselves up in the middle of the road and were "busy" "removing" rocks and dirt - for a tip from passing motorists! Two guys were very effective, having arranged quite large rocks into a kind of chicane. Later, a single man had less expansive ideas and was working with dried mud.

The lower I got the warmer it became. Near the end of the descent I came to a bridge over a river and received a fine, cool spray of water from a leaky pipe. Oh! Delicious!

Of course, people were just as friendly today. I wasn't even out of La Esperanza when a pick up pulled in and the driver hopped out for a quick chat. Later, less comfortably, I was tailed by a motorcyclist who eventually drew up beside me and started to talk - through his helmet while both of us were moving downhill. I didn't feel comfortable stopping so I kept going and trying to answer his questions which all seemed to be about distance.
He was annoying me because I wanted to stop for photos but felt like I shouldn't and also because by sticking right by my side he kept pushing me into potholes. I varied speed but he stuck like glue.
At the chicane rockfall I thought I had lost him so pulled in a little later. There he was, right behind me, in my mirror's blindspot with his engine off (common enough here). He pulled in diagonally in front of me, effectively cutting me off from proceeding
There was no need to panic. He was a cyclist too, a roadie - that would explain his lack of social skills . I got to see a photo of him on his bike and struggled through a few minutes of frankly bizarre conversation. I was glad when I could roll on.

Hot! But the view!

​

Levelling off it was hot! Very hot! I'd gained ten degrees on the descent and Gizmo was still rising. I passed the area where Osmand said there was camping - nada. iOverlander has nothing around here. I pulled up under a tree and had a think. I had 30km to go and 800 meters of climbing ahead of me. It was approaching 1pm. And hot! Tomorrow morning will make more sense.

So, I pulled into the little village of Jesus de Otoro, bounced up to the little park and got a cold, pineapple drink. There's not many hotel options but I found one with a friendly owner, checked in, had a cold shower and went out to explore.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 16, 2021, Jesus de Otoro to Comayagua 65 km Total KM 2629
Min meters 580, Max Meters 1430
Total Climb 1161 Total Descent 1175
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 26

Part 1: There are too many photos that shouldn't be missed.

Feckin' close to perfection!

There is a hell of a lot to be said for being able to roll up to a roadside Comedor, have a chat and have a personalised breakfast made. Back in México when I couldn't understand a word I was still fed and I've no doubt here would be the same but the whole process is so much more rewarding (and tasty) with un poco de Español. But more on that later.

Early morning small town Honduras - only the asses are out! Myself included!

​

Sometimes this cycling from place to place lark can be bloody hard work. Sometimes it can be the most fantastic feeling of travelling through, of experiencing and of feeling a place. And sometimes it can be both - and all before 10am!!

When this is my view when I get on the road I just know I'm in for a good day!

​

Up early, coffee, a breakfast of a couple of hard boiled eggs and I rang the bell to be let out.
It was just bright enough to proceed safely so I rejoined the main road and started to climb. 800 meters up was goal one.

It's funny. I remember vividly my first bike ride as an adult. An old, heavy, rusty MTB managed to carry me about 6km before I gave out. Today I'll climb 1/6 of that distance, fully laden, in mountains on the other side of the world, in a country that most of us (me especially) know nothing about! (Go on..... What's the Capital city of Honduras?).
That first bike ride was in 2012. Seven years later I set off on this little adventure and look where I am!

Heading up and if you look closely you'll see one of the cyclists that started my mental wanderings. This road didn't just look special - it felt special.

​

That's what I was thinking about this morning heading up and up and up. Probably partly inspired by two guys on MTBs a bit ahead of me. Despite me stopping regularly for a photo I was advancing on them the whole time!

They eventually stopped when I was right behind them and whipped out their phones to video me. (In fact today, lots of people videoed me. Unusually for me I kind of enjoyed it and somewhere there are videos of a grinning cyclist riding his bike!)
I pulled in a little later for a photo and they caught up for a chat. Just out for a bit of cardio, they said. Honduras is the place for it!

A little river provided a bubbling soundtrack

​

It was gloriously cool at about 20C and after an initial steep section it settled in to a 5-7% gradient. Traffic on my side was light, oncoming heavier, but very, very friendly. Lots of toots and waves, one truck driver even killing the revs to holler out the window at me. Such goodwill is good for the soul.
Traffic was also crazy veering every which way to avoid potholes and the like. There's something to be said for witnessing a motorbike loaded as only motorbikes can be around here weaving over and back at a ridiculous speed!
No point in freaking out, just relax and enjoy!

And this little waterfall was a different kind of music. Mother Nature was working overtime!

​

Coming up to 400 meters of climbing I pulled in for a break and to dig into some chewy, homemade coconut flavoured sweets I'd picked up in Gracias.

I was feeling quite good and definitely glad that I hadn't attempted this yesterday.

Getting some height and being able to look back on where I had come from

​

The second half went pretty much the same as the first, slow and steady with lots of pauses for a photo or to savour. Sometimes I wonder what passing traffic must make of me. With few places to park the bike I'd pull in, lock the brakes and straddling the bike just look around me - a big, dumb grin plastered across my face. Today was a high "smiles per mile" day.

More height, more colour, more contrast

​

Now though, I was dealing with threatening rain. At first I thought it may just have been mist as I climbed into clouds but then definite raindrops were falling. Donning the jacket just scared the rain away so I removed it at the next rail. I had to put it back on near the top!

Never knowing if its going to rain or not!

​

Then I peaked and hungry and a little cold I kept my eyes open for a comedor - I wanted something warm.

What a view! Well earned!

​

Read on for part II​

Later, a set of roadside shops - so colourful!​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

​

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 16, 2021, Jesus de Otoro to Comayagua 65 km Total KM 2629
Min meters 580, Max Meters 1430
Total Climb 1161 Total Descent 1175
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 26

Part II

I found what I was looking for after a few
kms and pulled in. A wonderfully pleasant woman listened as I responded to her verbal menu - a baleada with frijoles, egg and fried banana.
If you've never had it, fried banana is the business!
A baleada is simply a (large) tortilla, in this case filled with scrambled eggs, beans and my banana.
She'd never done one with banana before so this was an adventure for her too which she attacked with gusto, checking with me on every stage.
Her colleague made the tortilla from scratch, by hand, with none of the tools I'd seen in Mexico. Tortillas vary not just in ingredients but in method.
A special wood fired oven was for cooking the tortilla (yes, I asked and had a close inspection!).
A lovely chat was had. Spanish here is tougher with some new words and a higher tempo.
She was delighted to hear of my positive experiences in Honduras, very happy to hear that I felt welcome. Asking me about Politics I headed her off at the pass. I explained that I knew little and that in Europe we only get the bad news. But politics is only a small part of a country - the people are the large part and my experiences were all positive.
Then we had a little giggle at how bad Guatemalan food is!

A little river that created the valley I was going to be travelling through for the afternoon

​

I set off again in great form. The road was pretty flat and I only had about 15km to go. While I am definitely enjoying myself, there is little balance to the cycling - it is either up, up and up or down and down.

On a whim I decided to extend my day and go a bit further. I arrived at a junction to bring me to Siguatepeque planning to pass an hour before continuing on but it's a busy place! The horns! The horns! I took one look and decided "No". I took the road to Comayagua.

I don't think a mere "road" does justice to this magical piece of engineering meandering through a glorious valley.​

Four lanes, divided by those horrible speed bump thingies I mentally waved goodbye to all the road friendliness I'd been enjoying the last couple of days.

Ha! Dumbass!

It turned out to be one of the friendliest highways I've ever been on!

Not just friendly, breathtakingly beautiful and varied

​

But first there was a complication - it was a toll road! No need to panic - motorbikes are free and have their own lane. I took that and nobody stopped me. I had a shoulder all to myself!

It took a little while to adjust to my new surroundings and when I looked at Gizmo the temperature had jumped from 30 to 37C! And then I started to descend!

Too many trees? Here's a cliff!

​

What a fantastic road! Cars and trucks beeped, waved and made me feel incredibly welcome. The scenery was just fantastic as we weaved through a river valley, revealing forests, high cliffs, farmland and regular glimpses of the surprisingly small river.

Every night wherever I put down my head is my home but today, on that road I felt at home. The reaction of so many drivers and passengers was just so warm, so welcoming.

There are a lot of stores, in sections, along the road, organised by category it seems. A bunch selling wooden things (really nice) then another selling hammocks etc. Occasionally, a regular shop. There are no special parking areas - cars just pull into the shoulder. Approaching a big 18 wheeler from behind I saw his indicator go on to pull out and stopped behind him. I was in no rush and saw no need to pull into the road.
Out comes an arm from the window telling me to overtake him, so I did, getting a big smile, a wave and a cheerful "buen viaje" as I passed the cab. Later, when he caught up with me a cheerful "tune" on the horn as he passed.

It's not a dusty backroad, certainly on a map there is nothing to suggest "adventure" (Street view doesn't work in these parts) but this should be included in any list of epic cycling roads. Suitable for everyone!

​

There was one last climb - steep and hot that had to be made so once that was over I pulled in for a cold drink. Setting off again I felt so comfortable I took the lane and just let the bike fly! What a feeling!

It took me a while to realise that no traffic was coming against me so it wasn't too surprising to come across an accident - a truck had tipped over on its side. A timely reminder, perhaps, that I should curb my boyish urgings.

Looking back. Always look back!

​

Another reason for feeling so good was that I was hoping to camp at a hotel suggested by iOverlander. Turning off the main road I had a race on my hands against some angry clouds. On arrival, it's not really suitable for tents and since I had some errands to run and wasn't keen on leaving everything outside while I was away I opted for a room.

Once in, I changed and hit the town.
Honduran towns lack a lot of the "classic" colonial architecture and are more orientated towards cars. I find them less relaxing. At least the bigger ones.

Is there anything I can add to this picture?

​

I needed some alcohol for the stove and some cash. Paint stores didn't help me but a big hardware store did!
I counted at least three shotgun armed guards! The one at the door couldn't have been intimidating if he tried!
He tapped me on the shoulder for my backpack (not allowed in) then subtlely called a young woman over to help me. I was happy to look around and found what I was looking for and another girl (sent from the front) came down to make sure I was buying the right stuff! She brought me a different bottle and explained that this was stronger and better for me. It did say industrial on it!
Service!
At the cash register the man standing in front of me insisted that I go ahead since I only had one item!
On leaving, the security guard had my bag, got my receipt stamped and wished me a good day.

To think I was worried about being able to get fuel! Feck me, it's great fun!

I can reach out and touch those plants! I'm not an observer, but a participant!

​

Then a bank machine (in a mall for security). Since I'm clearly a foreigner this security guard checked with me that I was in the right queue (I was) and when a guy tried to cut in front of "the gringo" he had a man with a shotgun in his hand tapping him on the shoulder!

Big errands done I took a wander to the Plaza and church. I found a very pleasant girl serving coffee and churros and checking she could make change of a 500L (about €15) note I sat down to write this up.

Making change can be a problem in these parts. I always try to have small money but sometimes it's just not possible. A lot of places, especially the small places that I tend to favour can't make change. In México an Oxxo was my go to - busy with security they always had change. Here it's different.

Another thing too, is tipping. From Oaxaca/Chiapas onwards into Guatemala tipping was expected - often included on the bill. Here, it's a big surprise. People unfailingly return the extra and I'll say that it's a propina, a tip, for them. Genuinely, they're not expecting it.

My breakfast lady today was very surprised when I overpaid. Then delighted that I had enjoyed the experience so much.

Street art made from bottle tops! As friendly as the Hondurans are they are not Mexican friendly and let tourists stand in the street for the perfect shot

​

There are days when everything gets as close to perfection as we are allowed and today was one of those days.
I think being kind to myself yesterday and not pushing to take the big climb helped.
My Spanish, such as it is, is a huge help in turning otherwise stressful encounters into fun.

And Honduras, especially the people. So. Friendly!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Saturday, July 17, 2021, Comayagua to Parque Aurora 49 km Total KM 2678
Min meters 591, Max Meters 1508
Total Climb 1089 Total Descent 233
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 30

If you like cycling up mountains and you like people, come to Honduras!

The day finished with sore muscles and not from the climbing! Waving at people and grinning like a loon have me wrecked!

Within ten minutes of hopping on the bike this was unfurling on my left side. Yes, the sun was a warning of early heat, but such a sight only fires me up for the day ahead! It helps, of course, that the road is relatively flat!

​

I'm falling in love!
I know nothing about Honduras!
Back in 1982 we were given a school project where we had to research a country each from the '82 World Cup in Spain. I drew Honduras.
I can remember nothing (in fairness I was 9) and I have no idea where I would have been able to do some research. No doubt Mrs Caffrey in the library helped me out.
Now, here I am doing my own research. Other than learning a bit about coffee my experiences are on the road.
Roads that are either "interesting" or very good though tough, but fabulous countryside, drivers that are friendly, respectful and safe (to me, not so much each other!) and people that are generally warm, welcoming, friendly and honest. (You would not believe the number of times a tip is returned because they think I misunderstood the numbers!)
It's like I get a jolt of something good and just as its effect is wearing off, there is another! This is not the kind of drug normally associated with these parts! I'm finding Honduras to be very addictive!

All around me at varying distances are walls of mountains with banks of clouds. So familiar, yet interestingly different.

​

Up before the sun my morning didn't go as planned. My industrial strength fuel? Wouldn't light! When will I ever learn not to be swayed by smiling señoritas?

I still made coffee, though with the last of my own fuel and even ate a little breakfast - corn flakes and granola with milk - leftovers from last night's not very exciting dinner.

Getting out of town was straightforward and back on the main road I was immediately struck by the sight of the sun blasting through clouds and mountains. In fact, the whole horizon was mountains and clouds. Glorious!

I was heading to a park for a spot of camping, not terribly far away but with a 1000 meter climb to get to it! Before that though, I had about 20km of relatively flat road on what is rapidly becoming my favourite highway!

Despite the heat I was really enjoying myself. Exotic plant life just emphasises where I am.

​

You can't expect too many people to be cheerful at 6:30 in the morning but other than an artic reversing along my shoulder because he missed his turn traffic was respectful. There was even a bit of a cycle path on the way out of town.

It was great to do some proper cycling - just some rolling hills and I was flying along. I chose not to think of the big climb ahead.

I saw quite a few of these today, interesting because I am not too far from the Capital on one of the main roads.

​

The road, a four lane dual carriageway had a big, grass covered dip separating the directions. I saw people, motorbikes and pickups just turn off the fast lane, down the grass bank and up the other side onto the fast lane!

Two guys passed me on a motorbike, nothing unusual about that - except they also had a mountain bike between them! I don't know how he managed it but the passenger managed to work his hand free for a wave!

Cattle, horses and one very loud donkey were tied up on the grass verge for grazing.

I passed several cart-pulling oxen.

In one wide, shallow river I crossed two men were loading wet rocks into a wagon pulled by cattle.

​

Three roadies passed me with a motorbike bringing up the rear. Cheerful and friendly roadies!

And the views!

For a highway there wasn't a dull moment!

Passing the small village of Flores I pulled in for a ferretería, a hardware store. The first one wasn't interested in listening to me, the second one had a man who was curious and helpful, sending two young fellas off to look. We located a 3/4 full bottle of meths and had a lovely chat.
He didn't want to charge me the full price because it wasn't full so we reverse haggled!
Maybe it was the road but I couldn't shut up when he asked me what I thought of his country. I am really enjoying Honduras.

Then the climbing started! Deceptively, at first. I was finding it hard going at the start despite the road seeming flat. Checking Gizmo I saw an 8% gradient - because the road was so wide I reckon it was messing with my head!

It was getting hot now and shade was very scarce, at least on my side so I adopted a simple, safe method. I rode until shade then I stopped and cooled down. That might mean five minutes or twenty five in the saddle. If there was shade I used it. It worked well and I was motoring along, never getting too hot and making steady progress.

Taking shade where I can. How much closer to nature could I be?

​

About 3/4 of the way up I pulled in to a little comedor for some food - my belly was starting to protest. Not as pleasant or as interesting as yesterday but beggars can't be choosers. I rested before making the last attempt at the climb.

The only problem I had after that was the sun - there was absolutely no shade and precious few places to prop a bike. To be honest, I didn't really notice all that much. I just powered along, surprising myself at my progress. In all fairness, the countryside was the kind of countryside for cycling through - beautiful without being spectacular, stimulating and interesting enough to draw me up each crest and around every bend but not so stunning that I wanted to stop on every bend.
It reminded me a lot of southern Germany, the Alps, of Tirol, with pine trees, decent roads and well behaved traffic.
I was thoroughly enjoying myself!

That's our road way down there!

​

Having avoided Gizmo's elevation profile all day (it was particularly scary!) I switched it on for the last bit of climbing. There was no fanfare, no epic view as the road levelled off and curved downwards.
There was a toll booth with another lane for motorcyclists and me so I continued on downhill. I passed the park to hit a filling station to stock up on some essentials.
There was a large, but very empty store and an old man on door duty armed with a digital thermometer and gel. And a very friendly attitude. He assured me I could camp in the park. It was only later I noticed the pistol strapped to his side.
Outside I got talking to another man eating an ice cream. When I mentioned Argentina out with his phone - he'd been to Ushuia two Decembers ago.
I haven't thought about or looked at a photo of there in almost two years! Not a bad bit of motivation!

The view at the top of the climb. In the text I describe this as not epic! I am a very, very spoiled cycle tourist! ​

Then I rolled back up to the park for one of the most informal check ins ever! Once she had my approx €3 she returned to her conversation with two friends. Apparently I can camp anywhere I like! A n y where!
It's a big park!
It has swimming pools, a little playground, some football pitches, toilets, a store somewhere, a little zoo, I think, a river, lakes and lots and lots of sheltered areas with picnic tables, a grill and a bin.
Yes, it's noisy around the pool with music but pushing deeper into the park I have it all to myself. Just the birds.

There's a wonderful "usability" to these places. Simply equipped they are a place for people to gather, relax, celebrate. In one area a family are celebrating a child's birthday - a big family. In another, two parents are relaxing with a toddler.
Look at the carpark and there's a mix of battered pickups and much shinier SUVs. Some, no doubt came out on bikes or in a taxi.
And me, clearly a foreigner, on my bike made just as welcome.
It put me in mind of the State & National Parks in the US. Reservations required, incredibly complex check in procedures (and not consistent), rules and formalities. They are set up for people with $100,000 Camper vans, with the time and resources to make reservations months (or years) in advance. The Park in South Carolina charged me $45 or $50 for one night!
It's not meant as a criticism, just an observation of how places can be so different. I met many wonderful people in those places.
Here, the parks are for everyone - accessible to everyone. Even me!

I took a wander around and picked a place far from the madding crowd. I brewed up some coffee and the plan is to relax and to enjoy. It's a beautiful place.
Later, I'll be a bit more sociable and move to where there's more people - I'm far away from the toilets and the shop. I think the place closes at 5pm so after that it's all mine!
Well, mine and a security guard!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Sunday, July 18, 2021, Parque Aurora to Tegucigalpa 42 km Total KM 2720
Min meters 942, Max Meters 1441
Total Climb 645 Total Descent 1035
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 26

Feck me - I just rode my bike into the capital of Honduras!

Take a bow @netman
- today is living proof that serendipity kicks in once we make a commitment!

I mean no disrespect to anyone who has been hit by Covid, but this morning, sharing a coffee with the security guard I had cause to be very grateful for the chance that Covid gave me to learn Spanish.

Setting off. Quiet, excellent road, interesting sky!

​

Yesterday evening, after a very relaxing couple of hours in the depths of the park I moved closer to the action as most people were packing up to leave. I took over an empty shelter with three large picnic tables for my temporary home. There were beautiful places in the park but miles away from the bathrooms. Somehow peeing in the bushes felt like peeing on the warmth I'm receiving. Giving the rainfall that can hit with hardly any notice a roof is not to be sneezed at.

Sky is getting more interesting!

​

I commandeered a 12 person picnic table as only I can do and cooked up dinner - noodles, tuna in a Mexican sauce. Deeeeeelicious!

I'd had a poke around and could find no electrical sockets so was pleasantly surprised when one of the workmen came over before he left and led me to one hiding high in a corner of another hut.

By 6:30 I had the park to myself, the tent up and all ready for bed. The night guard showed up and we chatted. I offered him coffee in the morning. By 7:30 I was in bed, the fly open and just the mesh between me and the stars. Glorious!

What can I say, the weather is unpredictable!

​

Getting up was a bugger in the dark without my headtorch. I waited for a bit of daylight then set about coffee and breakfast. The park was still and filled with the sound of birdsong.
Then Ruben (I may have misheard) joined me for the promised coffee. This is the first time on this trip I got to use my extra cup! I was delighted!
He told me that he had been thinking about me all night, about my journey and my experiences. He said that it is a great idea to do such a big journey over such a long time but not everyone could do that. Family, children, fear all keep people back. He had spoken with God and God was keeping me safe.
That's a common thing I hear from people along the way that God is going along with me, looking after me, keeping me safe.
It's not a theory I subscribe to, but I do find it reassuring in that so many people display basic, Christian principles day in day out. I may not believe in a God, but I am certainly benefiting from those that do.
We had a lovely chat over more coffee and he rode his motorbike with me to open the gate.

Parque Aurora. My home for a night

​

Setting off in the relative cool the sky was looking ominous. Ruben had told me rain was forecast - maybe I could beat it!
In truth, the ominous sky matched my mood since I wasn't sure where I was headed. Tegucigalpa is the next big town - in fact, it's the Capital of Honduras!
I had no real way of avoiding it (I'd looked in Gracias) but by arriving on Sunday I was giving myself the best chance to ride right through it.
There was only one place I was interested in seeing The Museum of National Identity - simply based on the name and after Ciudad de Guatemala I'm not too enamoured with Capital cities. With several gpx routes in Gizmo I set off.

A huge cemetery beside the road filled with bright, cheerful flowers

​

Again, a great road if slightly less inspiring views. Most traffic seemed to be against me and I had a long, gentle descent. Being Honduras, I then set about gaining all the lost altitude. Of course, that was when the sun came out to play! Hot!

At about the 300m mark, about half way I pulled in to a comedor and asked about my favourite - eggs, beans, fried banana & tortillas. This lady was more matter of fact but delivered up a simple, great breakfast. Then the questions came, rapid fire! I was trying to eat, understand and formulate answers before I got blitzed again! Another woman and a girl joined in too! Great fun!

My first view of the Capital!

​

I had a decent phone signal and checked out a couple of things. Of course, the museum is closed on Monday so that means staying until Wednesday to visit it. However, there's not much the far side of Tegucigalpa accommodation wise so if I shoot through I could be stuck. I'm two or three days from the border and need a Covid test done - easier in the city. That means my time in Honduras is near the end!
That makes me sad! I am thoroughly enjoying this place.

Based on all that I booked myself in to a hostel in the city, rejigged Gizmo and set off up the hill! Honduras has been wonderful, Tegucigalpa deserves a chance.

Getting closer and the sky is starting to look ominous!

​

Over the top it was nearly all downhill again and traffic was picking up. I was doing fine until I had to cross two lanes of traffic to take a descent that I couldn't even see!
Once taken, I was regretting my decision big time! Two tight lanes, no shoulder only concrete barriers and fast moving traffic. Because of the steep descent I was invisible, despite my flag, until they had crested the hill. Not just unpleasant, frightening. Had I been able to see in advance I wouldn't have taken it.
Then beside me there's a Police pick up. Oh no! I'm going to get pulled over! (There are lots of comments on iOverlander of traffic pulled over for silly reasons and "on the spot fines").

Ha! Dumbass!
When will I ever learn?

That wasn't their motivation at all! The cab drew alongside me and I was greeted and welcomed! They pulled ahead so the four armed guys in the back could say hello, then they pulled in behind me and gave me a reverse escort, shielding me from the traffic!
I laughed at loud, I roared with exhiliration!
What an experience!
This wasn't like the escort in México because here I really, really needed help!
When I eventually pulled off at my exit waves and honking!
You could have plugged me into the national grid and I'd have powered a small town I was so charged up!

Commit and serendipity kicks in!

I had to blindly go where that car was going!

​

The rest of the trip through the city was interesting - small streets, steep climbs and drops - 18% steep. You never know the type of neighbourhood you're going to be passing through but I had no problems. I even got caught in the now inevitable street market.
It even started raining but I didn't care.
Traffic was city traffic - abrupt, yet considerate. Speed bumps everywhere, especially on the smaller streets require caution and steep climbs or descents require focus, attention and lots of effort.

Sunday is a drinking day in these parts and there is no lack of evidence. Bodies sprawled, unconscious, on paths, doorways and one right across the metal steps to a pedestrian bridge across a road are still jolting to me, yet seem "normal" to locals. At one stage I cycled past a couple of small, noisy "bars" and unusually I could see in. Bare, a handful of tables covered in empty bottles, mixmatched chairs and one or two sleeping patrons they gave me the willies. I'm a firm believer that bars can serve a very important social function in communities once they are not simply alcohol dispensers. These didn't look like anything else.

If it wasn't raining it could look like this!

​

In places like this I am so glad to have Gizmo for getting me around. With twists, turns and one way systems I would soon be totally disoriented. If my road is inconvenient (street market) or uncomfortable I can use the basic map underneath to navigate around without having to take out my phone. Properly prepared, I can have several options to the same destination and switch between them.
Gizmo directed me right to the door of the hostel and I checked in.

Home in Tegucigalpa. It feels a whole lot better than I thought!

Honduras! I've only done a little bit!​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Tegucigalpa

I am a bad, bad tourist!

After arriving in the hostel I lost a few minutes gazing at their map of Honduras - there is so much more to see!!

I had a quick, cold shower and headed off into the centre. I'd had half an idea to rush for the museum of National Identity but it closed at 4pm so I figured that would be a waste.

Traffic can be chaotic, buildings a bit haphazard and on the verge of falling down

​

I headed for the main Plaza, although they call them parks here.
Lots of narrow streets, steep hills and dilapidated buildings. Because of all the hills there's a tendency for the streets not to be straight, certainly less of a grid pattern so common in other cities. Between the ups, downs and bends it's very easy for me to get lost!

I found this wreck at the hilly end of a short street

​

I found the park easily enough but felt little incentive to stay. I wandered around a few of the streets and headed back before night fell. I'd be back on Tuesday!

The main Parque/Plaza. I found it a bit hectic and uncomfortable. There is a lot more graffiti here and a lot less street art. The Keyla mentioned here refers to a young medical student arrested some months ago who was found dead in her cell. Initial reports of suicide have been rejected and some Police are now under arrest. I have seen various references to Keyla in a number of places. This message simply states that Kayla is absent. (Faltar is difficult to translate directly. The closest is probably to lack)

​

Monday started with great intentions! I was going to hike 7km up to a park with a statue of Jesus. It's supposed to have a great view of the city. A lazy morning though on the terrace of the hostel was a bit of a distraction.
I got organised and ready to set off planning on doing some chores on the way.
I dropped some laundry in for a decent wash and they had to check if they had water before they could accept them! A different world!
I went to a pharmacy to enquire about my Covid test and was directed to a clinic. There I learned about my options.
Then is started to rain! Bucketloads!
I popped into a supermarket, bought some food and shelter hopped back to the hostel. No walking up a bloody big hill for me!

This was a very pleasant little park I stumbled upon - not a place to sit at all!

​

Tuesday was the day! Up early! Good breakfast! Relaxing coffee! Set off in plenty of time - a man on a mission!
I had been so proud of myself to check if it was open Monday that it came as a complete shock to me to learn that it's not open any day. Thanks Covid!!
The doorman/guard seemed shocked that I didn't know!
Located in an old building I asked if I could even step inside to see the entrance hall and was surprised to be refused.
I could feel my heart sinking rapidly as I walked away but I had a look around me and not for the first time reminded myself where I was - Honduras! - and how I was travelling - on my bike! - and a certain calm mixed with both excitement and contentment came over me.
I was disappointed, yes. I'd wanted to kearn more about this place and its people. I wanted to read about history and culture, not just the bad stuff on the news. Maybe I'll have to come back!

The street outside where I gathered my thoughts under a bright canopy. I was charmed by the proximity of the green hills (this is the city centre) and the fact they were undeveloped. There are a lot of houses overlooking the city. In the north where I entered the city many resemble shacks and look very unstable, stacked higgledy-piggledy. The building overlooking the hostel (more south) were a lot more substantial.
The main post office was close by. Mexico spoiled me!

​

Now, with loads of time on my hands I took to wandering around the centre then took a meandering route back towards the hostel and the medical clinic for my Covid test.

The Cathedral on the main plaza

​

I have been terribly spoiled in México! Other big towns and cities just don't suit me. Tegus has few places to just sit and relax. There's a lot of activity - noisy activity. More dilapidated it had contrasts too - here an old building falling down next to a more modern one but I found little charm. Of course, I have to remember that CDMX was especially quiet when I was there, but even before Covid (seems so long ago!) places like Guadalajara, Durango and especially Morelia spoke to me in ways that recent towns and cities haven't.

A typical street. Buildings tend to be low (I'm presuming because of earthquakes) and narrow although this one was relatively flat

​

I knew the clinic stopped at three so I wanted to be as late as possible without cutting it too fine. I was there a little after two. Processing was easy and since the results are emailed/whatsapped I was paranoid about making sure that information was checked, double checked and triple checked!
The test itself was fine and I was out. Probably fifteen minutes in total.
Then I did a bit of grocery shopping (there's a big supermarket which is a pleasure to stroll through). So relaxed was I that I nearly forgot to pick up my laundry!
Then it was back tonthe hostel (in the rain) to give Roccado a look over.
The front derailleur trigger hasn't been springing back into place. I opened it up and could see no blockage. I guess the spring needs replacing but as I can draw it back manually it's not on the urgent list. I also have a few scratches on the frame so I sanded them down and gave them a coat of nail varnish. Maybe some of you are shocked but the scruffier the bike the happier I am!

A river near the centre. I was surprised because it wasn't clogged with litter as I have seen elsewhere and the rainbow flag on the bridge.

​

So, in the end I got to see (and do) feck all in Tegus. I don't feel that I missed out on anything. I'm not comfortable using Public transport to extend my exploration range so I'm limited by where my feet will bring me.

The top of this tower lured me down but behind the wall was just wasteground.

​

I had a lazy night, cooking for myself and went to bed early. After looking at the photos of the man the other day I found myself daydreaming of Ushuia a lot. No big cities there!

There's not a lot of greenery but when there is......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, July 21, 2021, Tegucigalpa to Ojo de Agua 60 km Total KM 2823
Min meters ?, Max Meters ?
Total Climb 989 Total Descent 1357
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 31

(Edited to correct distance and climbing)

Smiles per mile off the scale!

If I haven't said it before...... Honduras is to cycle touring as a good fire is to a cold, wet, winter's day. It doesn't just provide heat, it comforts, lifts spirits and casts itself around so that it is bigger and more impactful than it has any right to be.

I don't like cities. I don't like riding in or out of them. I was a bit anxious about today. I could manage coffee (I really couldn't manage without) but no food. I'd bought food especially for breakfast but the thought of eating? No thanks!

Just as I was ready to go I noticed that the last screw on the unrepaired Ortlieb had popped out! Aaaaaargh!

A mountain village

​

First job was to hit the clinic for my Covid result on paper. I'd received a pdf last night (negative), had forwarded it to the Nicaraguans but to be sure to be sure I wanted the paper copy.
The girl who answered my questions on Monday and processed me yesterday was all smiles today. Very pleasant, if a little fast with her Spanish. Her colleague gently reminded her several times to slow down!

Then I dropped down onto a ring road and set off into the chaos.

In fairness it wasn't too bad. To give credit, I'd looked at Tim Tower's route out and followed it. There were a few steep climbs but I was able to use a third lane. When that disappeared I opted to use a "footpath", at times a regular footpath, at times an adventure in itself.
My destination was the village of Ojo de Agua 50 odd km down the road as I didn't want to put myself under pressure.

Out of the city, not the greatest of roads but at least I had a shoulder - most of the time!

​

It took all of 5.5 km for Honduras to warm me, comfort me and cast warm shadows that I know I am going to see for a long, long time.
Approaching a filling station a man standing beside a BMW SUV flagged me down. Being a BMW driver he wasn't bothered that his car was effectively blocking the entrance to the station!
He hailed me in English asking where I was from. I answered in Spanish and our brief conversation continued in both languages and something else.
He asked me where I was going so I said Argentina (people here can take it!).
And then, then, I'm not really sure what happened.
He said he had a motorbike but his voice trailed off.
Then he gave me a 500 Lempira note (ball park €15) a significant sum in these parts.
Of course, I wouldn't take it. Of all days I wasn't looking too scruffy! I'd had my clothes laundered for crying out loud!
He insisted. He started "Your journey....." but the words faded away.
He tried again "What you are doing......" but the words faded again.
It wasn't a language block. Watching him, it was an emotional blockage. Something about seeing a loaded cyclist (and I have no idea when he saw me or for how long he was waiting for me) spoke to him on some kind of a level. And affected him.
"Please", he continued "I know you don't need it. I just want......." and his voice failed again.
I don't need the money, judging by his car he didn't either. There were a lot of places that money would be better diverted to but right there, at that moment, to refuse again would have been wrong. There was something in the air, some emotion, unexpressed, quite possibly not defined, but present and tangible.
I took the proffered note, he thanked me. Yes, he actually thanked me and shuffled back to his car. I manoeuvred around it, past the passenger door to be greeted by a woman smiling, waving and nodding furiously.
My "gracias" were loud and frequent but there was no doubting that both of them thought they got the better end of the deal.

Now this is my kind of country!

​

With traffic I couldn't really process it, it was only later, on quieter, more peaceful, scenic roads that I had a chance to let the encounter roll around in my head.
He didn't ask my name (unusual), didn't offer his, made no attempt to find out more about my journey or how he could follow it. It was a "ships passing in the night" moment. Whatever drew him to me I developed the idea that he didn't want to spoil it with detail.
It's an experience that will stay with me a long, long time. Not for the generosity, but for his bravery. There was a vulnerability about him that he was willing to expose to a complete stranger. A stranger on a loaded bike.

Forest, haze, hills and one special tree - a land of mystery, a blank canvas for the imagination. My face is starting to ache from all the smiling

​

You'd think that would be enough of positive encounters for a day's touring but no, Honduras is a different kind of place. A little later I encountered two roadies, Kenny was the guy and he was cycling with a girl. They asked for a photo, sure, then if they could cycle with moi! I warned them of my low speed but they were happy. So off we set, me now taking the road with an outrider escort! Going up was hard, going down was fun! When my road veered from theirs she was very careful to make sure I took the right one! She did take a couple of action shots of me in transit so, in honour of the day if they ever surface I'll break my own rules and post it here. Today was that special!

With every intersection the traffic lightened. I passed along an extended town and with a long climb ahead I pulled in for a cold drink and a rest. 12km on the clock how could the day improve?

There's a vibrancy, a life that flows from the land and fills me with energy.

​

Well, for a start the Touring Gods gave me a bit of a shoulder so that helped. They also laid on some interesting scenery and bit by bit they reduced the traffic. The only downside was that there was a lot of litter along the road. I suppose it's to be expected leaving such a big city but it remained a constant all day, long after the city was left behind.

It wasn't spectacular scenery, but it fit. As I climbed the sky became darker, the air damper. There were even a few raindrops. Then I remembered I was in Honduras and the road dropped down leaving me with another climb. Slow and steady was the order of business.
Once over the peak I pulled into a comedor for the best tamale yet. I had a choice of chicken or pork so opted for chicken. A few minutes later I was glad of my choice when a baby pig came over to me shnuffling at my legs and feet! Imagine if I was eating pork!!

The ever changing road. The colour was so vibrant, so vivid (unfortunately diluted by the bright sun in the wrong place). I've seen enough rocks on the road to know that rockfalls do happen (and have even witnessed a couple of small ones). I find it very exciting riding past these cliffs. Traffic beeped, waved and cheered when I was trying to take this shot.

​

Just as an example of what I witness every day, the girl looking after me, no more than 15, quoted me 70L for my bill. Once she had the money she walked over to my table, checked the empty coke bottle and returned 20L apologising for charging me for a bigger bottle!

I now had a long, leisurely descent ahead of me and the sky had brightened considerably. Now, further from the city the toots and waves were returning. I hit roadworks and the flagman / traffic stopper greeted me with a cheery, English "Hello friend, how are you?", before apologising for having to stop me!
The wind started being an issue today. There was a hefty wind and such was the twisty nature of the road it switched from head to either side. Gusts were tricky but since I was in no hurry I just took my time.

Worth the effort? Ab-So-Feckin'-Loutely! Sometimes I let a roar out of me when something speaks to me. Today, it was laughter. I can't roar when I'm grinning from ear to ear​

Such was my day. I had another climb to do that finished at about 37C. Then another descent into the town of Ojo de Agua. I had no information on accommodation but was hoping for something. A recreational place that might have been a camping option was closed so I found the one hotel, checked in and sat in the sun to write this up. I'm going to cook up some noodles and tuna for dinner and have an early night.
I've received an email from the Nicaraguan government to tell me I'm welcome!

I started seeing stone walls, something familiar in a land far, far from home. More smiles

​

Tomorrow is the last big town in Honduras then Friday morning I'll climb my last Honduran mountain and (hopefully) cross into Nicaragua.
I'm not sure I want to leave!

*These past few posts have been among the most difficult to pare down to ten photos. More photos are on Strava and when I've time I'll post a link to a Google album. They really are worth a look.
Strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/22850894

A magical place

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 22, 2021, Ojo de Agua to Danlí 43 km Total KM 2866
Min meters 546, Max Meters 1068
Total Climb 793 Total Descent 606
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 31

The coolest place on Earth!

To my mind one of the most powerful lyrics in rock is from Neil Young's "Rockin' in the Free World".
In singing about an addict who favours her next fix over her son he says
"That's one more kid who'll never go to school,
Never get to fall in love,
Never get to be cool".

That last line always gets me.
Everyone should get the chance to be cool.

Setting off. OK, it's a crappy road and the surface means I'll be going pretty slow ….. but the atmosphere! Misty mysterious mountains ahead luring me along…..

​

Well, in the spirit of Evangelicals everywhere I now know the secret of being cool! And I am going to share it!
Take a bike, stick a load of bright, uncoordinated bags on it, dress in the clothing that least resembles "proper" cycling gear and ride your bike between Ojo de Agua and Danlí in the misunderstood but wonderful country of Honduras. In fact you don't even have to ride - get a lift, lean the bike against a railing, and wait. The coolness will be bestowed!
People will be so genuine, so energetic and so frequent with their greetings, their cheers and their encouragement that unless you have a heart of stone you too will feel like the coolest person on the planet doing the coolest thing ever. No matter how hot it is!

Maybe you're getting sick of reading about this or maybe you think the climbing and heat is finally doing for me but this is going to be another post about how simply wonderful Honduras is being to me and my bike.

The Touring Gods flexing their muscles! A new road, a shoulder and a light show!

​

I left far too late this morning but I wasn't in any rush. About 50 km, one big climb after about 15 km and a couple of smaller ones. I lost my shoulder on the edge of town and the road lost its structure. Potholes, cracks varying in size from large to gigantic and a good scattering of gravel, sand and mud convinced me that today would be slow. So bad was the road that there were two separate "crews" supposedly filling gaps with sand and gravel - for a tip. I watched, amused, as one guy unashamedly carried a pile of rocks and stones to dump on the road instead of removing the pile that was already there!

The initial flat section had moderate scenery. There was a continuation of the stone walls I had started to see yesterday. With the cloudy sky, the green landscape if I ignored the heat I could be at home in Ireland.

After about 5 km and passing a small village the Touring Gods laid on the king of roads! Wide, bright and clean with a generous shoulder! Yaaaaaaay! The cherry on top was probably the highest ratio of crash barriers per km that I have seen in a long time! For a cyclist not in a rush they may as well have been sofas!
When I started to climb they added a climbing lane - even less stress for the wandering cyclist!

When I started to climb the countryside started to change. It seemed drier, rockier. But impressive! The road cut through cliffs of great height and impact. This is great country to cycle through - it fires up my imagination. Higher, forests started to take over. Again, I'm spoiled! I love forests!

I love scenes like these

​

In advance of the big climb I pulled in for some food with a very friendly family. Again, this morning I couldn't face the thought of food. I set off again, smiling in the face of 500 meters up. My body is adapting to the climbing but no doubt the biggest source of my smiles was the combination of perfect cycling conditions, zero time pressures and a continuosly changing, captivating country. I stopped again and again and again not because the climbing was tough (it was) but because of the views and the fact that I had ample places to stop.

It's always good to look back from where we came!

​

Since traffic was very reasonable I'd often stand in the road for a different view. This is when the coolness mentioned above kicked in.
Stepping out of the way of an old, battered artic ascending about as fast as I would I caught sight of the driver practically bouncing up and down in his seat in his enthusiasm to wave at me. His wide grin was warmer than the sun trying to scorch through the clouds.
It felt good. Very good.
And he wasn't the only one. The energy that people put into their greetings is stimulating!
I passed a group of about 20 people spread out on both sides of the road clearing back the bush. The shouts, the cheers, the sheer enthusiasm was bettter than any descent.
I was cool!
Going past a cluster of buildings again and again people called out to me. I couldn't understand everything, but the meaning was clear.
I was cool!

A sweeping bend! (Unfortunately I was going up!)

​

Earlier, a car had pulled up into the shoulder so adjusting my speed to miss traffic I took the lane to overtake. A few minutes later it's blocking me again. I may have muttered a few expletives but then a hand came out the window holding a carton of juice!
Dumbass! Will I ever learn?
His wife was quick to tell me that they had disinfected it!
A quick chat and they were off again.
I was cool!

The frequency and consistency of these interactions point to something deep and ingrained in the psyche around here. You may not find it in any dry statistics about Honduras but where I have travelled it has been beyond special.

The big climb was hot and at times very steep but there were barriers galore. Even in high heat, 10% inclines I was grinning like a loon! When the descent came so did the wind! Buffeted I was, sometimes towards the road, sometimes towards the side, regularly backwards and for a glorious couple of minutes forwards! It was so severe, so unpredictable and so gusty I kept my speed well moderated.
I stopped to enjoy a coffee at an Uno filling station which had a shop that sold everything! I mean everything! They had a glorious model of a sailboat that an eager shop assistant tried to get me to buy.

There is never a dull moment!

​

After that it was a Honduran descent - it still had some short, sharp climbs through green countryside. It was really very pleasant.
Coming in to Danlí I pulled into a store for a cold drink and to assess my options. I could have pushed on to a village further down the road but I fancied one last night in a Honduran town. Then the rain came so that really made up my mind.
I set off again, promptly losing the shoulder and the road reverted to this morning's standard. Not good!
Heavy traffic had me very cautious and I pulled in to the first hotel that I saw. Fancier than last night it wasn't too much more and despite the unfriendly (male) receptionist I took a room rather than weave through the traffic outside.

A quick warm shower, some laundry and I took a wander into town. Just as dangerous on foot! Footpaths haven't made it this far south!
Of course, I made for the Park/Plaza, small, a bit rundown but with statues of locals done good. The church, now a Cathedral since 2017 was plain from the outside but with a beautiful, rich wooden ceiling supported by wooden pillars. Beautiful. Two guys were getting ready to carry out repairs on one of the pillars and were busy making a wooden scaffold.
More rain disturbed the rest of my meandering so I hopped into a small restaurant for some disappointing chicken.

The City of Hills!

​

I'm not a fan of Honduran towns. There is little aesthetically pleasing and the pace can be overwhelming. They are noisey and walking (when a footpath is available) can be an adventure all in itself. I know I keep comparing to México but I felt safer, more relaxed in México. I'm not talking robbery, just general getting around. There's a calmness in a lot of Mexican towns and cities, or an absence of malice. I can still recall the craziness of Mazatlán traffic but I never felt unsafe.

One thing that is more noticeable than elsewhere is the staring. People stare a lot. Intently.
I'm convinced there's no malice, at least in the vast majority of cases, it's just that I clearly stand out. Without the bike there is no context to place me in.
If I smile (through my facemask) and offer a greeting it is usually returned.
I spoke to a young woman from Chicago about this back in Copan Ruinas. She's volunteering in a small village as an English teacher and was offended by the staring, whistling and shouting.
I offered the view that in my experience a lot of it is cultural - I find being whistled at rude but here people call each other by whistling. I'm pretty sure wolf whistling means something else here because a lot of guys have wolf whistled at me! Shouting too, I find is often meant in a friendly way but normally if someone shouts at me I'm on the defensive. I'm not at home anymore.
And the staring? There's not many white people around. It might be considered rude where I'm from, but I'm a visitor and, let's face it, I do look a bit odd most of the time!

The Cathedral from the Park

​

So, I'm sitting here in a little park on the edge of town, traffic flying by on my last night in Honduras.
It has been a real surprise, a very pleasant surprise. I can't recommend the place enough for a bike trip - at least the places I have been. It has everything and then some.
I'm genuinely going to be sad leaving tomorrow.

A man outstanding in his field.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 23, 2021, Danlí (Honduras) to Ocotal (Nicaragua) 56 km Total KM 2922
Min meters 653, Max Meters 1227
Total Climb 671 Total Descent 791
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 29

Nicaragua tried to pee me off. Nicaragua failed!

It's one of those ironic things that the one morning I was awake and alert early enough to be leaving with first light that I have a breakfast included in my room rate! And I'm too tight to leave without it!

I was awake early with a bit of nerves, I suppose. Border crossings can be stressful. My mind wandered to all the things that can go wrong on a 30km trip and the fact that my Covid test expired about 2pm.
I packed, loaded, made my own coffee and waited for the restaurant to open (6:30). I had my usual eggs, beans and fried banana with two of the teeniest tiniest sausages I've ever seen.

Once out of town the traffic lightened, or tended to travel in packs. When I had the road to myself? Glorious!

​

For some reason 80's music is quite popular in these parts and I'll often hear a song as I pass that will transport me back through the decades. This morning over breakfast they played The Bangles' "Manic Monday". Aaaaah! Susanna Hoffs! If there's anything to get the heart pumping it's Susanna Hoffs using her bedroom voice to say "C'mon lets go make some noise"!
Border? No problem!

The road was busy and crap. There was a shoulder but that was even more crap. On the edge of town some traffic took another road and with each subsequent junction the traffic got lighter.

This picture isn't as fantastic as I wanted because the view itself was fantastic. Three pyramid shaped hills, each one behind larger than the one in front and with the bright sun they all seemed surrealy insubstantial. Sorry - you had to have been there, I guess!

​

I had 31km to get to the border, the first 20 flat (Honduran flat) and the last ten climbing 500 meters.
That first 20km were fabulous. I was fresh, it was cool, traffic got progressively lighter and I flew along! There has been precious little of this "normal" cycling.
Interesting, occasionally eye catching views but never stunning. Farmland gave way to rocky or marshy scrub but hills and mountains everywhere.

Despite the heat everything is so green! Farmland closer to Danli, more wild the further I moved towards Nicaragua. Talk about creating a mood!

​

I stopped for some cold water and then started to climb. At first very gentle gradients, later not gentle at all!
But the countryside? It was giving me a send off! It was wild, jungley and really, really close!

I had few places to stop so regularly straddled the bike. Traffic was so light I was no longer worried about the border and besides, this was my last ride in Honduras - I didn't want to miss a thing.

Climbing now and the sense of the exotic is everywhere! There's something stimulating about riding so close to plants and trees. There were lots of ramshackle huts along here, homes to friendly people with lots of children.

​

A couple of kms from the border the road narrowed - a line of parked trucks on either side. That slowed down my progress whenever any traffic wanted to move - I was expected to vacate the road. At that stage, soaking in sweat and still climbing 10% grades I really didn't mind!
The truck drivers were friendly, one guy even gave me a push! Trucks were being washed and engines exposed for adjustments. I saw enough bald tyres that I stopped looking.

I was pulled by three Police and two soldiers approaching the border. The Guy Police was very officious barking questions and demanding papers. His female colleague was quieter and smilier.
"Where did you cycle from?" she asked. "Danlí", I replied before adding "But I started in Virginia".
All credit to the woman but she audibly gasped before asking "And all by bike?". "Sí" I replied, thinking to myself that Honduras is making me feel like the coolest dude all the way to the very edge of the country!

I met a money changer and changed my big notes. My poor head is spinning with all the currencies!
As it turned out I was pulled for no reason. I had to go through the exit procedure at a window. Again, fingerprints, presumably to check I'm leaving with the fingers I entered with!
Two young fellas approached offering to mind my bike while I was busy. I declined but they hung around until they saw I was prepared and didn't need to run from Billy to Jack filling in online forms, printing and making copies.

I was reminded of the old joke of the guy parking his car in Dublin to go to a football match. Approached by a young fella who offered to "mind" his car he casually replied that his dog was in the car and would look after it. Walking smugly away the young lad called out "Hey Mister! Can your dog put out fires?"

Then into Nicaragua.
A guy called me over, checked I had everything I needed then sent me to a medical hut to process my Covid test. Another guy came up and thrust a declarations form at me - what was I carrying etc.

The medical side of things was fine - my temperature was taken by a camera two meters away!
She wanted an address in Nicaragua and I gave the name of the first village.

Medically fit, I was sent to the immigration container. Yes, a repurposed shipping container. I'd hate to be doing this in the rain!
Two windows operating I waited my turn. No one else did - they kept jumping in front of me.
The bike was out of sight which was making me antsy.
Eventually my turn.
The lady wanted a phone number in Nicaragua, no, my (new) Guatemalan number is no good.
With no internet I needed to find a number! I couldn't even make one up as I have no idea of the format. Eventually, about 15 minutes later I stumbled across a number on iOverlander and gave that.
Feck's sake how ridiculous!
(I subsequently found out there's free Wifi - my phone can be slow to pick up Wifi).
With the phone number of God knows what I could now be processed. Cost US $12.
I got a little printout but she had no change from my $15. Scam!
I didn't care - I just wanted back to the bike.
Everything was fine but I still had my declaration form. Apparently I had to hand that in a little ways down the road along with my immigration printout.
I cycled across a big car/truck park did exactly that and pulled up beside a money changer to change my last 50 Lempiras. I had planned to celebrate with a cold drink but now I just wanted away!

Before I left him I looked in front than back at him and said "I'm in Nicaragua!". He smiled and I rolled off.

Welcome to Nicaragua!

​

Honduras both greeted me and kicked me out with big climbs. Nicaragua knows how to welcome a bike traveller - a long, long descent, smooth, perfect roads and apparently a ban on traffic! I had it all to myself (well, almost!).

I knew I wasn't in form to properly appreciate where I was after all the feckin' around at the border so I pulled in at the first guardrail and emptied my head. Yes, it took a while, smartasses!

What do people know about Nicaragua? I spoke to a few people at home from Tegus. To a man/woman they all expressed reservations about Nicaragua. I'm pretty sure if they could see me stopped on the side of the road they'd give me gold stars for stupidity but I hadn't a care in the world!
Stopped, I could hear a veritable orchestra of birds in the wild variety of trees and exotic plants all around me.
Now I was ready to move on!

With absolutely no rush I took my time. The wind was powerful and unpredictable which would have put a halt to my gallop anyway. The volume of the birds dropped with my altitude. Spotting a shaded bus stop beside a store I pulled in for a cold drink.

Then off again.

Descending into Nicaragua! Birdsong welcoming me from the trees.

​

On a sweeping bend I pulled off for a smoke, to enjoy the view, to soak up the stillness and munch a few cookies.
A man appeared from nowhere walking towards me with a machete. He stopped for a chat and we discussed how a place can have an atmosphere that can be felt. Then he continued on walking down the road.
Don't believe everything you see on the news.

I sailed past a little village, pretty and neat with a bright, but small park beside the road. A load of primary school students, boys and girls, were excited at the sight of the bike, the boys being more vocal. I wanted to stop, visit the little park and chat with the kids but a quick scan revealed no adults around. I don't know if its a flaw with me or the society I come from but the idea of a grown man mixing with Primary School kids is not a positive one. I continued on, second guessing myself.

It wasn't long until I came to Ocotal, my first Nicaraguan town.
iOverlander mentions a restaurant that you can camp at, difficult to find and a bit out of town. I headed for there but on seeing the lane (precipitous drop) I turned around and decided to hit town first. I needed Nicaraguan money.
But first the Park.

The Park in Ocotal! The friendly coffee lady told me it's the best in all of Nicaragua! I really hope not!

​

It was a case of love at first sight! Colourful, full of plants and trees, well cared for, well used and incredibly calm. I walked the bike around grinning from ear to ear!
There was a little place serving food with a delightfully pleasant lady who confirmed, after a pause long enough to ket me know she was teasing me, that yes she had coffee. I ordered a couple of little tacos as well. A couple sitting at the only table scooshed over and insisted I join them.

Barely in town and I felt at home!

My tacos? Alex would have a fit!!
Deep fried (that's ok) but covered in mayo and ketchup. Not a bit of proper salsa or any heat! But, hey, look where I was and how I was feeling - the whole experience was great!

On the spot I made a decision not to camp. It's out of town and I wanted to explore more so after my coffee I set off to find a cheap hotel. Job done I changed and set off to explore.

There's a lack of urgency that I can feel, a little more order than Guatemala or Honduras. It's more relaxing even with some broken roads and dodgy footpaths. I don't think anyone is going to run me down!

A bit weary and faded in the outside, a glorious wooden ceiling inside!

​

Outside the park it's Student's Day with some kids in uniforms and others dressed for performance. There seems to be King and Queen students, music is blasting and people are dancing.
Opposite the park is the church, another fine wooden roof inside. Outside a beautiful garden with some amazing trees.

Away from the park the chaos grows, but a less wild chaos than I have witnessed recently. I'm not getting stared at which I approve of. It's nice to just wander and not be made to feel self conscious.

On the edge of town following the road for a view of the mountains I came across a coffee place. A little relaxation, a little contemplation of where I am is in order.

Nicaragua.

A magical tree in the church grounds

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Saturday, July 24, 2021, Ocotal to Somoto Canyon 47km Total KM 2969
Min meters 555, Max Meters 786
Total Climb 708 Total Descent 596
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 33


Back on the PanAmerican and going the wrong way - Honduras, here I come!

With no Susanna Hoffs to get me fired up this morning was a more sedate affair. I didn't sleep great waking a couple of times through the night. The fan, very much needed to keep some air circulating in the small room, was very noisy.

On getting up, a large area enclosed but open to the street had filled with three pickups and several motorbikes - my coffee making area was gone! So I took my gear out to the street and set up on a step. A man working there (who had been sleeping in the same area as the cars) started sweeping the street around the building and we chatted about my stove and need for coffee.

8:20 am and this is my view! I'm the luckiest chap in Nicaragua!

​

The next problem was getting all my gear out. I had to weave between cars and lift everything, Roccado included, over a couple of motorbikes. Outside I loaded up and headed off into the heat. About 8 am and already 26C. I'm going to melt!

Back on the main road again I was enjoying the early morning, the good surface and the light traffic. I arrived at the small village of Totogalpa and pulled off the main road and went looking for the Church and the park. I'm not in a hurry and recharging my park batteries won't do any harm. I located the rather dilapidated church and the very pleasant, small park. Then I had an idea and went off looking for milk. I was hungry - some breakfast was in order!

My breakfast view - a pleasant little park with the old church in the background. There are many worse places to eat breakfast!

​

It took a couple of attempts and standing behind a woman who bought a few kilos of rice and a top for her son before I got my milk. A lot of stores you can't actually enter (nor see a lot inside). You ask for what you need through a grille - a great way to learn a language!
Then back to the park for granola, crushed cornflakes and milk. A very pleasant breakfast I have to say.

On the way into the village I passed one of these "Evangelical halls" that have been common since southern Mexico. There was some very pleasant music and singing coming out of it. Leaving town, however, the tone had changed and a man, quite a young man by the sounds of it, had worked himself up into a fit of some righteous indignation. I couldn't really follow what he was saying but it was very far removed from the tone earlier.
Just what do the folks in these villages do to deserve such preaching?

There may be a few roadshots today but that's because the roadview was just so darn good! And with light traffic for a lot of the time it was mine! All mine!

​

Back on the main road I needed water but bought some juice as well. I guzzled the juice - a mistake - and felt bloated afterwards. My next turn was onto the PanAmerican again! There's a canyon down the road that looks interesting and a town.
I was surprised when I made the turn - my shoulder disappeared! Great surface and luckily not a lot of traffic but it would be unpleasant if busy.

There are lots of trees lining the road, all kinds of trees. They give character and atmosphere as well as shade and a home to the birds who serenade me as I pass

​

I was finding it hard going. A few climbs, a lot of heat and a bit of a bloated feeling. I adopted my pause at every shade strategy - on both sides of the road. Traffic was light, at least in my direction but I was regularly dazzled by the sun reflecting off the shiny chrome of big trucks.

Some of the rivers are looking a little low!

​

The road though? Fantastic! There were lots of trees, regularly a canopy of trees ran along the road on both sides meeting in the middle. With little traffic I had a magical road to myself regularly.
People that I met waiting for buses, walking or just sitting outside their homes were friendly. Crash barriers gave me regular places to stop.

Yes! More trees! Cycling along here is really interesting and fun! It helps that there's no big hills and I can power along!

​

I came to the town of Somoto, named for the canyon (or vice versa) and pulled off looking for their park. I found it easily enough and what a park! Small, compact and like a jungle!
Unfortunately, they were setting up outside for a festival - carnival rides, a stage, big speakers (in addition to a sound system already blasting). I must be getting old but it was too darn loud!

Ah! Now this is a park!!!! Stepping in is stepping into another world! Despite the noise coming from the setup of the Fiesta this was a cool, calm break from the craziness of the world outside

​

Somoto was an option to stay but with the fiesta I decided to move on. Another few kms down the road is the canyon itself and a couple of accommodation options. Off I went!

Yes! More trees! But PanAmerican ones! My shoulder is gone! But my smile isn't!

​

The road was fine, the heat was a killer! Gone were my regular guard rails so stopping in the rare bits of shade was trickier. I was finding it tough going and was relieved to finally arrive at my turnoff. My target was a hostel, from iOverlander, run by a Frenchman, but I was intercepted by a very persistent man, Briana, who ran tours, had a hostel and a restaurant right at the junction. The hostel wasn't much, but it was cheap and it looked like I'd have the room to myself. Stay with the locals or a Frenchie in Nicaragua? That's a no brainer!

This photo has been enhanced to zoom in a bit on the road. I loooooooove how the road rises behind the tree canopy and heads for the mountains. A selfie of me at this time would have had me grinning ear to ear.​

*Enhanced photo

I'd a very pleasant internet free afternoon reading my book, chatting a little and playing with a puppy. I've had worse days on the road! I'd not really thought about doing a canyon tour but it sounded interesting and since I was the only guest I could specify a time - 8am Sunday morning, back about 11 or 11:30. Time enough to hit the road afterwards.

Later, an American family showed up enquiring about a tour. With no Spanish they weren't making much progress so I assumed the post of translator!!
We're in the twilight zone, folks!😀
They said they'd join me on mine. Fine by me!

Another feckin' tree? Absolutely! This beauty was in my breakfast park. It has its own spirit! It didn't just speak to me it sang to me

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Sunday, July 25, 2021, Somoto Canyon to Somoto 14km Total KM 2983
Min meters 671, Max Meters 753
Total Climb 193 Total Descent 218
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 34

Feck it! There's a Fiesta!

I slept reasonably well despite the heat and had a bit if a lie in. Then it was up to make coffee.
I don't think I've ever had such interest in my Trangia! I had to assemble, disassemble, show the fuel, light it (I used my flint causing all kinds of interest!). Even my breakfast of crushed cornflakes and granola with yesterday's milk aroused interest! I was begining to feel like a guinea pig in a science experiment. All pleasant, though.
Then the Americans showed up and we set off.

Somoto Canyon - I swam there!​

Wow!
Just wow!
The Rio Coco has carved out this canyon and at this time of the year the river is about 5 or 6 meters below its peak.
We walked, then swam, then walked then took a boat along the canyon.
A fantastic way to see it!

European health and safety officials would have coronaries but I really, really enjoyed it. When it came to swimming for the first time ever I was the first person to totally commit! That never happens!
I'd love to say that it was a consequence of the new, tough, road hardened me but the truth is I slipped on a slick rock and down I went!

I swam, walked and swam there!​

There were places for jumping in to the river which I passed on. The two girls did, after some deliberation. Then there was the big one, more than 30 meters! I passed.
I did do a little one, about 2 or 3 meters into a fast flowing channel. I don't like heights, and the dislike seems to grow every year. On top of that I was standing on slippy rocks and kept thinking of whacking my head on the way down.

It took about 5 hours, all told, putting a bit of pressure on me for the afternoon. It would have been faster on my own but the company was interesting and welcome.
Back at the hostel I packed up, ate the included lunch and set off into the heat. I had to double back through Somoto to where I joined the Pan American yesterday. For some reason it seemed a bit easier than yesterday although the climb/descent was similar.

Look up!

​

Passing a shelter that seemed to operate as a bit of a shop a young woman called out asking for a photo. Why not? I bought a bottle of ice from her (it was water in five minutes!) and she gifted me a coke!

Back on a boat! Yaaaaaaay!

​

Arriving into Somoto I was surprised to see loads of activity on the main road - loads of horse activity!
The Fiesta I saw being set up at the park yesterday has taken over the main road. Maybe I was too hasty?
Continuing on I passed an Hospadeje, a cheap guest house. I pedaled on but soon turned around. Cheap, tiny but a chance to see a Honduran horse fiesta!
Off to explore!

Girl Power! Only 3 Horsewomen needed for the Apocalypse!

​

It wasn't all plain sailing today, though. Going to remove Gizmo (Wahoo Roam) the thingy on the unit that locks on to the holder on the bike broke off. To say I am peed off is an understatement!!!!
I'll log a "ticket" as they say but I've no idea what they can do. I'm not going to be anywhere long enough to get a replacement. I can (and will) try to glue it back in but not sure how good or long lasting that will be. Temperatures are only going up for the next while.
I am still dealing intermittently with Thermarest (absolutely shocking customer service) and now this. Feck's sake - does anyone make a decent long lasting product anymore??

There were a few of these "giants", a man hidden in the skirts holding her up with a pole. As well as a couple of drummers there was also a guy dressed as a woman (look for the pink). Some of them were not enthusiastic, but this one was born to it!

​

Out on the street I couldn't figure out what was going on!
There were all kinds of horses from scraggly ponies to fine animals ridden by just as varied a group of people. Some seemed to be "clubs" wearing uniforms, some just in regular clothes - but all donning cowboy hats.
A lot of the horses were "dancing" either solo or in groups - a pretty impressive sight.

Everyone was on a horse, even this little lady!

​

I enjoyed watching the melee, for that is what it was, and Lord help any stranger trying to drive along the road - the horses owned it! Eventually, I figured out that they were slowly getting ready for a parade as a couple of vans pulled up full of musicians.
Knowing that I started heading towards the town centre following the route of the parade - easily done as groups were filling the path to watch.
I had lots of time so hit the park again and then hearing a different kind of music I headed for the route.

The Parade - Performing Horses and Preening Riders

​

In groups the horses were trotting along, stopping on each corner to dance, to move sideways, or generally show off. It was impressive, but there was a lot of people and that was making me uneasy (Covid). I watched a while and then meandered back to my little room.

For some reason I was surprisingly tired!

Somoto Canyon - The Postcard!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Monday, July 26, 2021, Somoto to Condega 37km Total KM 3020
Min meters 520, Max Meters 768
Total Climb 443 Total Descent 609
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 34

It's Bike Touring, Jim, but not as we know it!

Sleep was relatively easy in such a small room last night. The fact that it was small meant that the effect of the ancient and dilapidated fan was greater than it might otherwise have been. Noise at 4 am had me up to check Roccado was still outside the door.

Last night I had been busy using the wifi to check out a few things about Costa Rica. They are going to require proof of insurance, specifically for Covid and my existing policy won't satisfy them. I emailed my insurance company on the off chance.
The reply was swift and a bit more than I expected - my existing insurance only covers me in Green and Yellow countries! Uh oh!
That's a change since I last checked!
I need to think on this. If I get Covid I have no coverage.

Trees, a crash barrier - all that's missing is a river, lake or ocean for it to be perfect! Heading off into a road like this ...... What insurance?

​

I got up with a cunning plan. Skip breakfast, hit the road and stop in a small village with a park for breakfast. As cunning plans go it was genius!

After spending ten minutes hunting high and low for my gloves (they were in my ass pocket!) I set off.

Good road, quiet traffic and lots of tree canopy. A pretty pleasant Monday morning. There are a lot of people on the roads these days - walking and cycling. The default way to deal with a hill on a bike is to walk! People invariably smile and offer a greeting, if not spontaneously then in reply to my own.

There may be a few of these! I am loving riding these roads.

​

Confession time: I proudly rode past a MTB on a bit of a hill, greeting the rider as I passed. A little later, pulled in for a photo the MTB pulled up for a chat. A lovely elderly man, 70 if he was a day - and I had been so smug on my loaded bike going past!

I reached Yalagüina but didn't turn off for the park at the first street nor indeed the second. I say street, someone else might say wall since they were almost vertical!
Third time lucky, then to the pretty little park with the remains of a fiesta around it - small funfair rides. With a shop beside it I was all set. I bought some bread and set about coffee. I popped back to the shop for glue for Gizmo - shops sell everything here!- but couldn't make myself understood.
No problem, a pleasant breakfast was to come
While busy, the girl from the shop came over to me, I was able to demonstrate the problem and she returned with a small tube of glue!
Then the questions started! She ended up sharing my coffee (I used my spare cup again - yaaay!)

Nicaragua - not what I was expecting

​

Sometimes (some would say all the time!) I'm not the best listener but I got a bit of a lesson today from my coffee companion.
I'd refer to her as a girl but there was a little boy, three or four years of age who called her "Mamá".
She wasn't fazed by Virginia to Nicaragua on a bike but was when I mentioned a town 50km away!
What I found hilarious was the fact that she was shocked I had cycled in México - that's so dangerous!!
She wanted to know about the US and expressed a strong desire to go. I told her my opinion of the place, a lot of fear, much less open and friendly than these parts. Money could be made but it was hard, hard work and for immigrants often very tough.
I used the example of her leaving the shop to follow up about the glue as something that wouldn't happen there - at least not to a stranger.
Then I got my lesson.
Life is difficult here. Very difficult.
I'm sure the very last thing she would have wanted was to make me uncomfortable but I was. She told me of people, a woman and a child, risking everything to cross the Rio Grande. Of the long journey to get there. For every news report that we see there are many human stories that are never explored.

It was all well and good for me, the visitor, to wax lyrical about the positive points, as I see them, here, but I don't live here. What's life like in these small places? What are the prospects? The American people I did the canyon trip with yesterday home school their kids because the public system is so poor. What chances do kids have here?
I passed two buildings today, side by side and I was only able to tell which was the chicken coop and which the home because one was full of chickens!
It's all well and good for me to waffle on about the friendliness, the openness, the respect to a cyclist on the road but none of those put food on a table or educate a young boy to enhance his prospects.

It was a lovely morning, educational, uncomfortable but also pleasant. Her accent at times was almost incomprehensible, but we got there.
Parks are feckin' great!

I continued on marvelling at what a lovely road I was on. One pothole! It was so shocking it seared itself into my memory! Frequent tree canopies that didn't just give shade but whole atmosphere! Little settlements of houses along the road, people walking to and fro - all friendly.

I passed a sign pointing to a park only 3km away. I recalled nothing, checked my maps and saw nothing but the road looked nice - what the hell!
That's how I found Palacagüina a delightful little village with a lovely park and a loose pig wandering around!
I took a walk around and met some yappy students, found a shop and ate lunch in the park. Trangia out, eggs boiled, simple and delicious. Three more students half engaged me in conversation, two girls and a boy. They started in English but quickly lost confidence.
I could stay here but my maps say the only hotel is on the road I came in on and I didn't see any hotel! I can take a backroad back to the PanAmerican.

It wasn't far back to the main road but it was quiet, very pleasant and friendly. People call out all the time and while I may not understand everything there's no malice to it.

At this stage there was no point in heading for Estelí. It wasn't too far away but there's a big climb. It's a big town, too, and probably busy. iOverlander tells me there's a cheap hospadeje beside the park in Condega. I turned off to investigte.

Nicaraguan Backroads. Refreshingly good, interesting and safe. My face and arm muscles carry the greatest risk - of overuse!

​

What a lovely park - again! Full of plants and trees, people and children it's a little oasis of calm. I found the little place to stay - it has a lovely garden and set off to explore.
In fairness, there's not much to these towns. Like others it has a museum but frustratingly, these are all closed. Architecture isn't exciting but Condega has a viewing platform that gives pretty views of the landscape.

​

I returned to my room, tried to have a shower but there's no water, did a bit if grocery shopping then plonked myself down in a rocking chair to eat and read.
I'm desperate for some decent bread! Forget what's available in a store or supermarket - it's crap. I bought some rolls in a proper bakery only to discover they were dry and brittle. Not stale, just crap.

Condega from above

​

There's free (Political) wifi in the park that my phone picked up as I sat there. Wahoo had responded immediately. There's a new Roam for me, a list of countries (not Nicaragua) all I have to do is tell them when and where. Pretty impressive but not sure how the logistics are going to work out.

The last few days have been very pleasant - short distances, small towns and an approach to planning so laid back I'm almost flat on my back!
I'm enjoying these little towns. There's a lot less staring which is liberating.
I need to give myself a kick in the ass though as I'm going to need a reasonably accurate timeline for Costa Rica. I'll need to buy their Covid insurance before I approach the border, it's a daily rate which just adds to the expense of an already expensive country. I don't need to do a test, though!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, July 27, 2021, Condega to Salto de Estanzuela 46 km Total KM 3066
Min meters 544, Max Meters 1034
Total Climb 777 Total Descent 384
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 29

Nicaragua - the Land of Figaries!

If México is the land of smiles, Guatemala the land of mystery, magic and mountains, Honduras the bike tourist's Paradise, Nicaragua is becoming the land of figaries!
It's quite possibly some subconscious response to people's reaction that I was going in to Nicaragua (Uh oh!) but I seem to be unable to stick to a plan or a route! I am being guided by what I see and feel and thus far I haven't been let down and I have to say it feels very liberating!

Is this the day for taking a figary? Feckin' right it is!

​

The Pan American is not proving to be what I expected! I know it's only temporary, but it is lush, green and relatively lightly travelled. I did find myself pulling off a few times today for safety's sake but it's far from stressful. When I have the road to myself, I have birds chirping and singing for company and the occasional pedestrian or cyclist. Passing through more populated areas (I'm talking five or six houses here) I'll get waves and smiles. I hear dogs barking, sometimes ferociously but I don't see them, the only ones I see are lying down too lazy to investigate me. There are very few things to impinge on a bike traveller's enjoyment.

Is there not something inspirational here?

​

I was up with the sun, had coffee, a little breakfast and set off pushing up a steep hill to get back on the main road. I do miss the craziness of the Mexican mornings! There's something about that chaos that kickstarts me!

The first 10km or so were feckin' glorious! Central American flat (read up and down) but I could power along. Gizmo was slowly rising through the temperature scale but a decent headwind helped keep me coolish.

There is always something interesting just down the road!

​

Then came an all in one 400 meter climb. I wasn't looking forward to it but these days I'm underestimating myself and it'd be a lie to say it was easy but I got through making good use of the frequent crash barriers for a rest.

Up top, a headwind battering me, the road rolling up and down there was life in the old legs yet!

​

Once up, the kickass cycling returned as I crossed an uneven plateau. A different landscape now, more open, but great fun to power along into the wind. A couple of shortish descents required me to use the brakes more than I would have liked because I was going faster than traffic!

Approaching Estelí I pulled into a pleasant roadside restaurant for a second breakfast. Estelí was to be my destination for the day but it's only 10:30. It's a big town. There are a couple of smaller villages down the road. Accommodation options are sketchy but I'm finding Nicaragua to be comfy, especially the smaller places. Over my coffee I decided to pay a visit to the park in Estelí then to make up my mind to go on or not.

Getting frisky with the locals in Estelí

​

The man in the restaurant disagreed with my sentiment that Estelí seemed big - it had everything I could want, he said - malls and banks. I'm not someone who travels to shop!

Estelí was busy and dusty. I found the park which I deemed more of a Plaza because of a lack of trees and greenery. It was pleasant, for sure, but didn't really speak to me so I had a cold drink and had a look on Osmand. I was all set to head off with a view to hitting a couple of villages but iOverlander had a camping option at a waterfall. Rough, but a night in the tent is no bad thing! A bit of climbing though!

The Park again. Religious statues are common and prominent. Most parks are named for a religious figure. The Black & Red flag is for the FSLN (Sandanista) Political party. There are elections in September, I believe. Flags and slogans are everywhere, almost religious in fervour.

​

I set off again thinking that I was saving myself a lot of stress in the morning by leaving Estelí behind and was surprised when I took my backroad at how good it was! I've become used to backroads being bad, often sand and rock. Not in Nicaragua! Best of all it was still! I had it almost to myself! A few motorbikes and a handful of cars - just me, the birds and some farm animals. And the most amazing collection of butterflies yet! One in particular, metallic blue in colour was huge according to what I'm used to. There he was flitting along the road.
The hills? Killers! When Osmand goes to 16-20% you know it's going to be tough!
It would have been if I was in a hurry but since I wasn't I took my time and soaked it up.

Go on! Have a good look! Follow the road! Dizzy yet? Me & my figaries!

​

I found the place just as the heavens opened. A man let me in and I'm standing in a little hut as the rain pours! I haven't seen rain in days and within spitting distance of setting up the tent......
I have no idea where I am going to pitch since I have no idea what is in this park! I have food and water so I'm good to go. My first night camping in Nicaragua!

Bridge of the Mermaid - some creative advertising going on here!

​

When the rain stopped I set off into the park. "Park" is a misnomer - it's a rough road down to the waterfall. Thinking I might camp down there I took the bike - a bad idea!
Going downhill on a wet, gravel, rock and mud road is not fun! At least loaded. Before one precipitous descent I parked up and walked.
The waterfall is very pretty and I believe I can swim here but I was disturbing two young lovebirds. In any case there was no place to camp. I'd have to return to the gate because the rain wasn't going away.

I got rained on twice as I slipped my way back up. Whatever about going down going up was really not fun!
So heavy was the rain that my hut was looking the best option for a comfortable night.
The young couple at the waterfall stayed down there through the rain. When they finally made it up bucketfuls of rain were falling down and they were soaked through! Not a jacket in sight! (As I sound like an old fart!) Oh to be a teenager again!

Heading for the waterfall, off the main road, hardly any traffic, birdsong and lots and lots of atmosphere

​

I made a snack and read my book interrupted regularly by any of three boys who came to investigate "el loco con su bici". It was fun chatting, if a little repetitive (they visited one at a time). The youngest was intrigued by my dynamo light, the middle one by my kindle. The eldest, 14, was the easiest to talk to and understand. He told me he'd be afraid to sleep where I was intending. Not because of people, but because of "all the scary things". Knowing a thing or two about fear I tried to explain but it was stretching my Spanish.
Later, the woman of the house came out and set about fixing the leaks in the roof and demanding her husband climb up and rake all the debris off the roof. It was great fun!

Then I cooked up some dinner, tuna, tomato and noodles and went to bed as darkness fell.
It wasn't what I was expecting, the accommodation would never be described as salubrious, I hardly got to see the waterfall but it was a very pleasant way to pass a wet evening.

I slept very well.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/