The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Austin - The interlude

I saw more than a few turtles paddling around in the river around Austin. If I looked around I'd also see tents or people's belongings stashed, waiting to be recovered.​

Willie pulled out all the stops for me! Not only had he sent me screen loads of links for the vaccine, made it clear that anything I needed all I had to do was ask, he also decamped to a State Park outside of Austin with his tent to be on hand. Willie rides a trike and he has two of them. He brought both!

Tuesday morning he arrived with both at my hotel and we set off to explore some of Austin's cycle paths.

For anyone wondering, this is how two trikes get transported! What service!

​

Let's just stop and appreciate that for a moment.
Willie lives about 120 miles away, has effectively "moved" to Austin for the duration of my visit and brought me a bike!

Thanks, Willie! Just seems so inadequate.

Cycling along the Colorado river, Austin, Tx. I am the luckiest ba$ta*d!

​

I haven't ridden a trike since I was a gasún. I'll tell you - they're fun!
Low to the ground, tight steering there's a real "race" quality to them. Throw in the offroad possibilities along the river in Austin they're a lot of fun!

Poor Willie had to adjust to my style! A sudden shout of "photo" meant I had seen something I wanted to record so Willie had to stop and wait!

​

We made plans for a repeat performance the next day and I returned to my hotel. By rights I should have been getting organised for my return to Costa Rica but another voice was calling - the Chili Parlour for a Mad Dog Margarita or two.
You know you're in a good bar when you sit at the counter and feel like you belong. No bullshoot, no fawning, and it makes no difference if it's your second or second thousand visit.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh! That's Bass! The Texas Chili Parlour.

​

The next day Willie picked me up and we went riding with his brother through suburban Austin and along some trails. I even got to re-experience riding along a highway. I don't miss them!
Then a huge lunch (chicken fried steak) and we said our goodbyes.

Willie was great!

This shot was Willie's idea. I think he may have a bit of "flower power hippy" in him yet!

​

I wandered through one of the trendier areas of Austin, tried (and failed) to get a sim card (I can't charge my Guatemalan sim and this is causing problems) and meandered back to the hotel.

I've gotten better at my meandering since I was last in Austin but even though Austin is quite pedestrian friendly, meandering here is different to further south.

Tex! Tiny and very light, picked up in one of Austin's "weird" shops. Don't think it'll work out!

​

Back in the hotel my immigration issues resurfaced. An online form to be filled in for Costa Rica generated an email reminding me that I must have an exit ticket from CR otherwise I'll be denied entry. A chat with a helpful agent confirmed this. I tried to book a bus ticket online but my paypal is denying me access - it sends a code to my phone - my Dutch phone - which I cannot access. How do I change the number? In my account. How do I get access to my account? With my Dutch phone! How do I chat to customer service? From my account! Why can't I use my Guatemalan number to create a new account? Because it takes about an hour to receive the text and the link Paypal sends is only active for ten minutes!
With no other option I booked the cheapest flight option out of CR and paid with Credit Card.

Travelling day was long. Out to the airport and wait. Fly to Houston and wait. Fly to CR. Pass through immigration with no problems. Taxi to the hostel.

The day had one flaw - my Ipod reset itself in Texas. At first I thought it had died, but instead it set itself back to factory settings. 20,000 songs gone! And ironically a huge number either from, or about Texas! The Lone Star State is trying to break my heart!

I'm back in Central America and I'm vaccinated! Ready to rock'n'roll, ipod or no!

A Texas sunset! I'd forgotten just how big the sky can be and how spectacular the sunsets can be! Montana must be bloody amazing!!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 13, 2021, Liberia to Curubandé 23 km Total KM 3610
Min meters 151, Max Meters 425
Total Climb 431 Total Descent 173
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Vaccinated biker back on the road!

I was exhausted. Back at at the hostel close to midnight I went straight to bed. With only a fan in the room it was warm, very warm, yet I slept better than in the air-conditioned room in Texas. Not enough, though!

Costa Rica - Take Two!

​

I got up and made coffee and thought about my options for the day.
Here's the thing:
I need a covid test to enter Panama and outside of the airports & San Jose (the Capital), there aren't many options in Costa Rica. The closest I can find to the border is about 200km away - another race to the border and through some of the more interesting parts of Costa Rica. This is starting to really pee me off. Especially considering that Panama is, apparently, a completely different country - in all kinds of ways.
One option was to head back to Nicaragua and that island off Rivas for a couple of days - but that requires another Covid test (not cheap in CR) and more hassle at the border.
Another option is to slow down where I am and to explore a little.
And I want to camp! I need to camp! After the travelling, the queues, the buses, the airports, the queues, the planes, the queues, (there are always queues!) the sterility of a big hotel, the air-conditioned environment, the human noise I'd like a little peace & quiet.
There's a hostel that allows camping back out the road which may just do the job. It looked closed when I passed it on my way to Liberia but Booking has it open (no guarantee!) so I emailed them.
I'll pass the weekend and then head for the beaches on the coast, hopefully missing the weekend rush. Sorted!

This is most certainly not the PanAmerican! ​

I popped out to the shops to stock up and then got organised. A couple I'd met in the airport last night were busy assembling two bikes, one a S&S Surly that travelled in a case, the other out of a battered box. My first S&S bike in the wild I was intrigued. He was having problems reconnecting cables and both had issues with connecting pedals. They're down to explore CR for 12 days.

Still feeling like the luckiest ba$ta*d!

​

It was about 11am when I set off. Whoah! It was hot! Steamy hot! I couldn't help cursing all the airco over the past few days - it seemed like I'd lost all conditioning to the heat.
Like my arrival the road was busy as I headed back towards Nicaragua and I wasn't enjoying it. After about 5km I saw a sign to a National Park (CR has lots of them!) with not one but two volcanoes! On a whim I turned off. Immediately the traffic situation changed for the better!
I hadn't considered going this way because it involved climbing but iOverlander had shown a few options.

I think it's almost instinctive to classify, or attempt to classify, a new country so Costa Rica gets classified as a 70's porn movie - bush everywhere!

​

There really is a closeness to nature that is unrivalled anywhere so far. It's not just that it's close, it's imposing as well. Rushes/grasses are at the edge of the road as tall as me. There's hefty rustling sounds as I cycle past. I've seen more lizards today than on my travels so far.
And I had it pretty much all to myself! Hardly any traffic.

There's hardly any shade, too much climbing but there's hardly any traffic and I feel like I have the place to myself.​

But it was hot. And I was tired. Progress was slow and tough. My heart was going loopy! Sun, heat, humidity and a climb and I was fecked! Shade was rare but I stopped wherever it was. Several times I thought to turn back and head for the hostel but I'd had no response to my email and I'd be peed off if I arrived to a closed hostel. Besides, this was the kind of road I wanted to explore. So I continued on.
Then I saw it! A sign for a lodge & campground - only 5km away! Yaaay!

I think I made the right call going this way!

​

It was in a small village so I headed for a store first. I needed water. I treated myself to an ice-cream as well and sitting in the shade perused Osmand & iOverlander to see where I was and where I could go. No rush - the campground was just down the road. I worked my way down to Panamá marking off likely destinations. Hah! Panamá!

There were roadsigns, posters and info leaflets asking people to watch out for this bugger! Not to be touched with naked skin nor killed, but bagged and inform the authorities!
Great! As well as all kinds of killer spiders and creepy crawlies, snakes and crocodiles I have to be careful of snails!

​

Then I set off down a bumpy road to the very well signposted lodge and Campground. Closed! Man, was I peed off! Multiple signs, including one at the top of a very rough road but when I arrived, a non native said closed and recommended a place a further 2km.
I set off again. This place was very nice but a B&B, off the road and up a bloody big hill. No camping!

A bit of offroading trying to find a place to rest my weary head.

​

Back on the road a man directed me back down the rough road, past the B&B, past a barrier where I'd find camping.
I did! A little campground and cabins! A basic outdoor kitchen, animals farm and otherwise wandering around.

Breakfast the next morning. A duck, chickens and the rooster is out of shot!

​

Home. Relaxing home!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Saturday, August 14, 2021, Curubandé to Liberia 34 km Total KM 3644
Min meters 35, Max Meters 387
Total Climb 454 Total Descent 668
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 29

Costa Rica doesn't do figaries!

I know that somewhere in my notes I have written something like "don't do the backroads in Costa Rica in the rainy season". At the time I wrote it (several years ago now) I was thinking of the frequency of rivers to be forded. I can now verify that it's very good advice and it has feck all to do with fording rivers!

There's nothing like a night in a tent! It's dark here by 7 pm and I was in bed by 7:30. By about 7:35 I was enjoying that sensation when I'm so tired my eyes can't focus on the words in front of me and I can feel my grip on the kindle loosening.

I slept like a drunken baby!

A pretty country this Costa Rica!

​

Strange, exotic and wild sounds woke me up in the grey light of dawn. There were birds, for sure, but something else too! Was this the morning for monkeys?
Alas, no, but there is something to be said for a rural Costa Rican morning. There are the birds and their foreign calls, even a woodpecker! The roosters are slow here, or else they were just taking their turn. I had my coffee made before they started crowing. Ducks and chickens came over to say hello, a kaleidoscope of butterflies flittered around. And I lost count of how many spiders tried to land on me while I sat and savoured my coffee.

I was in no rush even though I could feel the sun starting to kick in. I decided to head further into this big park and skirt around one of the volcanoes on backroads then join up with a mainish road and hopefully camp again at a thermal baths. iOverlander had a spot for a wildcamp too so maybe a bit of adventure.

First ford of the day! To the right is dammed and people are sitting and swimming

​

The plan lasted about 2km. I came to a gate across a road and was informed that it was $4 to cross. This isn't an entry fee to the park (that's later) it's to the owner of the road. The sign clearly said 800 Colons to pass, about €1 so I was getting the Gringo price. The guard was neither friendly nor helpful. When I tried to clarify that I could get to where I wanted to go he was very negative and I couldn't be sure if that was because I couldn't get to there or he just wasn't helpful.
Annoyed that he was demanding dollars (I had none) I turned around and headed off.

Ah, a bit of adventure never hurt anyone!

​

Plan B was to get back to the Pan American but on different roads than I had travelled yesterday. Once on the road I'd be closer to the hostel I set off for yesterday or I could head for the coast. But first some backroads! Yaaay!

It was at the small village from yesterday that I diverted off my route from yesterday and immediately hit gravel. This is fine, says I and rolled along. It wasn't long until I came to my first ford - easy peasy! The locals have even dammed it so on my right as I passed people were swimming or just soaking in the surprisingly warmish water.

More adventure!

​

After that I was really out in the country! There was no one around! Even though both sides of the road were fenced there was little productive land. A few fields had some cattle but there weren't many crops. The road surface changed to dried mud, gravel and sand. In the dry it was great fun.

I took a turn off onto a smaller, rougher road and now started to see the odd farmhouse. I met a Cowboy and wondered if he'd object to me being around but instead I got a beaming smile.

I passed through another ford or five, but one had a fallen tree that seemed the perfect spot for a bit of lunch. Just me, butterflies and the sound of a flowing stream. Bliss!

My lunch spot. Tortillas, nutella and a banana never tasted so good! The sound of the little stream was like music

​

The road turned stonier as I approached a small village and the weather turned as I passed through. Heavy rain started to fall so I pulled up beside a store, got a cold drink and sat it out.

Getting back on the bike I dismissed the idea at the back of my mind that maybe I should stay on the good road. Only 5km to the Pan American I said to myself. Sure that's nothing!

Oh Dumbass!!

Before the rain. Who wouldn't want to explore along here?

​

Bumpy gravel was fine until I made a turn onto a grassy road. That was fine too until I made a turn onto a well dug up path. There was a lot of mud.
At first, it was ok, but the mud started to accumulate in the mudguards until I had to stop and attack them with a stick. And so it was. Go for a while. Unclog. Rinse and repeat.
I haven't seen this type of mud since I cycled along the Somme but I was in no rush and it's all part of the adventure.

But Costa Rica had more in store for me. The ground turned black and instantly became stickier. If I put my foot down there was a strong possibility I'd raise it again without my shoe!

Still before the rain! Down the hill and around the bend there's a whole other world waiting for me!

​

It took me quite a while to figure it out but I was trying to travel in wet, black, volcanic soil. Judging by the green fields either side of me with healthy looking cattle it's fertile stuff! It is also lethal for cyclists.
The problem now was less an accumulation in the mudguards and more a general case of the mud sticking to everything! And I mean everything! And then it would harden.
I was wearing clown shoes because a layer of mud would stick to my shoes, then a layer would stick to the first one and so on. On the bike the mud coated the tyre, hardened, then added another layer. Three or four rotations were all that were required for both wheels to jam solidly. I had fat tyres!

This was less fun!

I decided to remove everything off the bike and carry it all past this section, maybe about 500 meters. After that I was back on grass.
Not an easy job as my feet kept getting stuck in the mud.
Finally, everything was on grass, I flipped the bike over, removed the wheels, cleaned everything, loaded up and set off.
I got about 50 meters. The grass was growing on the same volcanic soil and the grass helped it bind even better than before!

At this stage I didn't even bother with a stick, my fingers were doing all the mud removal.
My legs were covered, my feet, obviously, and now my hands and arms. Some people pay a lot of money for such a treatment!

After the rain!

​

I tried pushing until wheel-lock then unclog and resume but it was very slow going.
And then it started to rain!
The Touring Gods were having a laugh!

I left the bike and walked on to get my bearings. The road was a little over a km away. I returned, unloaded and brought everything in shifts to a tree near the road. I was in surprisingly good spirits all things considered but was keeping a wary eye on the sunlight.

Once everything was under the tree I did a bit of scouting. No normal car could turn off the road and a bank of trees hid the road, except for the rough entrance. To the left were a couple of houses, but to the right a path ran parallel to the road and was hidden from it by trees. Far enough down there and I'd be hidden from the houses too. I found an imperfect, but likely spot and returned to the bike to wait for the sun to sink. Despite the rain I wasn't cold at all so didn't really pay any heed to it. At least until I tried to bring the bike along that little path. It was a sodden bog. In the space of an hour it had gone from firm underfoot to a soggy mess. Camping was not going to be pleasant. In twilight I headed for the road.

Why couldn't it be like this all the time?

​

I could have gone right and headed for the unknown hostel but decided to play safe and headed back to Liberia.
Traffic on my side was light but there was heavy oncoming traffic all with very bright lights. Visibility was a bit of an issue, especially since vegetation was right beside the road.
Again, close to Liberia the traffic picked up in both directions and I was counting down the kms until I could get off.
What was amazing was the number of bikes who passed me heading out of town and not a single light between them! Horrifying! There's me lit up like the proverbial Christmas tree getting passed way too close. What must it be like for them?

The rain was helping to clean me up a bit but I still looked like a Holy mess. The poor bike too!
I didn't want to return to the hostel because the clean up would be too difficult. Instead I recalled a large, rundown hotel that would suit my needs better if not too expensive.
It wasn't and to be quite honest I'm surprised the man sold me a room!

I left the bike outside the room, headed straight for the shower and fully clothed stepped under it. It took about 30 minutes for the water to stop running brown!

Still nowhere near the road! Roccado is upside down for cleaning, bags are being carried by the ass and there's more rain to come!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Sunday, August 15, 2021, Liberia to Tamarindo 77 km Total KM 3721
Min meters 29, Max Meters 163
Total Climb 344 Total Descent 437
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 31

Costa Rica is a cruel Mistress!

An idea was bouncing around in the back of my head on the first day of cycling in Costa Rica, a vague idea but one that suggested that Costa Rica could be a cruel mistress to a wandering cycle tourist. Today brought that vague notion front and centre.

There's going to be a lot of roadshots today! That "shoulder" wasn't usable, often with a nasty drop down.

​

All my best intentions of an early start were put to bed - literally. I slept well and long. Surveying the damage to the bathroom - mud everywhere - and big muddy footprints on the tiled floor everywhere else (in fairness I had removed my shoes) was just proof of yesterday's experience.

Grabbing a free coffee in the lobby I spied a hose outside and had permission to clean the bike. More mud! Some of it had hardened that not even fingers could pry it loose. At least the rims, tyres and brakes were fully functional.

I also had a bit of wifi at the hotel and just before departure time my shortish day had changed since the campground I had contacted had replied in the negative. Bah!

Some drivers seemed to think that I should be riding in that sand and gravel.

​

I loaded up and set off for the coast after tracking down the chambermaid, apologising and tipping generously.
But first I failed to pass a Subway for a breakfast sandwich and a coffee. Then I was heading for the coast.

I'm off the PanAmerican for a while. Since I'm going to have to rush through the last section of Costa Rica (and having rushed through the last part of Nicaragua) I am going to take it easy in this Northern part. A bit of acclimatisation to the heat won't do any harm and Texas reminded me that I haven't seen a good sunset in far too long. If I can't find a good sunset on the Pacific Coast I may as well go home!

Lord was it busy! Two lanes, no shoulder, very hot and very unpleasant!
This was the road to the airport, but everyone, it seemed, was either going to the beach or coming from it. I had more close passes today than I have had since i re-hit the road in México.
One bus driver, in particular, was cursed so profanely that his children's children's great grand children will be carrying remnants of the curse!

An old bridge on an old road

​

I was (deliberately) not heading for the first beach thinking that it would be the busiest. (It also seems to have a rep for petty theft. Serious crime doesn't seem to be too much of a problem, but petty crime in the form of theft is quite common). It was clearly a great plan because the locals agreed with it! Not a single car in a long line took the turn off!

As time went on the traffic did lighten, but that was compensated for by a smaller road!

This really wasn't a lot of fun​

There's a bridge further down Costa Rica that is famous for Crocodiles. It's on my to-do list but as is the way with these things the crocodiles may be long gone when I get there. Passing by a small village I spied an old road running parallel to my right so when I got my chance I pulled off onto it and doubled back a ways. Like my road it had a bridge over a brown, muddy river, but unlike my road it wasn't choked with traffic. I stopped to photo the river. Another man pointed something out to me - a crocodile! Then another! And another! The bridge would fail any European safety standards and I stayed well away from the edge. Falling into a river on the bike would probably be tour ending, falling into a crocodile infested river would be life ending!

This is the problem with Costa Rica - there is genuinely so much to see but the roads militate against seeing! Too much focus on staying safe. Crossing the bridge on the road I was aware of the river but not the detail. And what detail to miss!
Costa Rica is a cruel Mistress!

That's a croc down there!

​

I stopped on shaded seats beside a football pitch for lunch and a break from the sun. People don't chat here. They'll look, subtly, but rarely speak. They might return a greeting but that's it. If they think they can sell you something then it's different.

Setting off again there was a strange noise coming from somewhere. A bit of elimination and I deduced the source as the rear hub. That wasn't good.
Back in Liberia before going to Austin I had given the bike a good going over and had noticed a faint noise from the hub. Not having any grease there was little I could do and I figured it wasn't that serious. Besides, I have an ocean crossing from Panama and my rough plan is for a total overhaul in Cartagena, Colombia.
Well, today, that decision came back to bite me on the ass. There was groaning and rattling. At times I genuinely wondered if my frame was starting to break such was the noise.

The weather always makes things interesting!

​

When I eventually came to a railing I pulled in, unpacked and investigated. Definitely the hub and it sounds rough, like it needs grease badly. Or a good clean. Or both. Not a thing I can do about it though!

I set off again happy enough with the constant traffic as it killed the sound of my hub.

Osmand had shown two spikes on a relatively flat route and these were next. Spike is right! Up to 20% gradient! In the heat with the traffic I didn't even try. I walked. In fairness, the usually excellent surface was poor for the climbs. For some reason a mix of stone and gravel had been set along the side of the road pushing me out too far in the lane for comfort. And the heat! Have I mentioned the heat?

This is a bit more like it!

​

For the second spike Mother Nature laid on some rain. Soft, cooling rain. I had been watching it fall all around me, but not on me and then heard the increasing woosh as it approached me from the right. As I climbed it got heavier and by the time I got to descend it was a few drops short of a downpour. Spying a filling station I pulled in for cover. Ferociously loud lightning, yes lightning, coupled with ground shaking thunder made me appreciate my luck!
The filling station was a hive of activity - a continuous line of cars for refueling. Stations here are full service and these guys and gals were busy!

It took an hour, at least, for the rain to lighten off, so I crossed the river running down the road and set off in the fading light and rain. The first car to pass me soaked me in spray!

And this! With less traffic I can really relax and absorb. In fairness, there is a lot to absorb!

​

I was heading for Tamarindo, quite a famous beach and surfing town that had a few options for camping - one right on the beach.

Heading for a night's camping in the rain may not sound like a lot of fun (and to be totally honest was not feeling like a lot of fun) but throw in camping beside the Pacific Ocean and, to this Atlantic raised boy at least, it assumes a different dimension.

Tamarindo is fancy and not my cup of tea. The beach is accessed through multiple fancy establishments - restaurants, bars and hotels. Thankfully, my destination, right at the end if town is none of those things!
It's mud and weeds and a few picnic tables. A shed to rent surfboards and organise tours (a large crocodile had been photoshopped poorly into a poster!). I caught a young fella who was just locking up and was confused that I wanted to camp (with my own tent) for the night. His confusion sprang from his insistence in using his poor English. I met the boss, stoned, who offered me a bed in a container - I may not have survived the night! - but I preferred my tent.

The Plaza/Park in Huacas. They don't have the same buzz, the same life, vibrancy or interest as México

​

I took a quick wander to the beach, all of 50 meters away. Out at sea there was no rain and the cloudy sky looked brighter. To my right were low hills with even lower clouds banded around them. In front of me a collection of boats were bobbing up and down. No sunset, but still not a bad view!

I set up while cooking dinner, ate in the rain then retired to bed. The rain was falling, it was oppressively warm inside, my clothes were soaking and I've a problem with the bike.
But I could hear the Pacific. The waves arriving leisurely on the thin, narrow, scrawny beach.
The Pacific!
Isn't this why we do the crazy things we do?

If the road was like this all the time Costa Rica would be perfect!

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Monday, August 16, 2021, Tamarindo to Santa Cruz 38 km Total KM 3759
Min meters 14, Max Meters 77
Total Climb 201 Total Descent 112
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 32

Serendipity!

Ah, Costa Rica is messing with me big time. This is the first time anywhere on the bike that I'm thinking I have the wrong form of transport.

Oh, did I sleep well last night! The rain dancing on the fly was my lullaby but that stopped at some stage (I know because I recall opening up the fly to let in some much needed ventilation).
I awoke with the sun and the sound of waves breaking on the shore. Not just any waves - Pacific waves!

Everything looks better in daylight - with no rain!

​

I'd half thought of staying an extra day but Tamarindo is not my kind of place. Also, the quandry of the solo traveller was prominent today - what to do with my stuff. There'd be lots of people coming and going - easy for things to go awol. Besides, my hub needed attention. I'd pass a couple of largish towns today A bike shop to remove the cassette and some grease and I'd be sorted.

First things first, though and coffee on the beach. I had contemplated a quick dip but being alone on the beach about 6am with a big "Rip Tide" warning behind me I decided that the last two day's rain was enough water for a while.

Now this is how to start the day! Morning coffee looking at the Pacific Ocean!

​

Back at the tent the place was coming alive. The boss was up and about, his live in helper (a fly-less tent in a container) too. As was a curious and fearless cat.
In the back of my mind was the idea to pack up, meander down to the end of the road and have breakfast on a hopefully deserted beach.

Then I looked up. In the trees overhead. Not one, not two but three monkeys having their leafy breakfast. After my attempts at seeing monkeys "in the wild" here they were when I least expected it.
Here's a surprising thing. Three monkeys going about their normal routine above my head and totally unaware or uninterested in my existence becomes quite boring and tends to put us back in our box. They no more cared that I was there than the man on the moon.

A monkey breaking his fast in the tree above my head!

​

A new employee was all chat and dropped in conversation that they had a bike mechanic on staff. All I had to do was wait. Sold!

It gave me time to dry out a wet tent, clean the bike better, get the drive train spic and span and lubed up. Just as I'd given up hope he arrived (he'd actually been here giving a surf lesson), confirmed my diagnosis that the hub needed some love and offered to meet me at his shop in a small village back the way for the service.
Sold! (He's actually on vacation!)

The wheels of the bike and all that goes with them are probably the parts of the bike that scare me the most. I've adjusted spokes as a temporary fix, have serviced a hub (at home) and if stuck in the back of beyond I'd be able to have a fair stab at getting myself going again. Not perfect, but functional. However, with bike shops around I'll defer to the experts.

Now, I'm going to stop there for a moment and give myself a big pat on the back. It's not something I do very often.
Mechanics are to me what flying is to fish. There are some who are born to it, but some of us just aren't and have to clamber over all kinds of natural hurdles. We'll never "fly" as gracefully as the experts, we'll often crash and burn, but we'll get there.
Then there's the foreign language, another thing that doesn't come naturally. I was far from fluent but made myself understood and could understand (most) of what he was saying.


I set off the 5km or so to his "shop", actually a tin shed beside a house and waited. I'd used Osmand, with no proper address he was able to point the exact location on the map and I sent that to Gizmo. Easy Peasy.

He arrived after not too long and quickly had the hub open. Ooooh! It was dirty! Very dirty! The drive side was the worst and some of the bearings showed signs of abrasion.
A clean, new bearings and copious amounts of grease and the wheel was spinning like new! A cold drink and a generous tip and I was on my way!

Today was a tree day!

​

But to where?
It was now noon and I had missed the best part of the day for cycling. One option was to try to go along the coast. In theory, possible, in practice unlikely. Backroads, rivers, fords and who knows what surfaces. I might get 90% of the way to my destination and then get stuck. I think I've enough figary taking for a while!
Instead I headed inland towards Nicoya, probably a bit far away but with a town before it.

I like to see a tree or two left in an otherwise "developed" field

​

The road today was quite good and thankfully lightly trafficked but there were precious few places to stop safely. Traffic was generally well behaved but when stopped it's like I become invisible and traffic whizzes right past me.
Regularly, bridges over small rivers were significantly narrower than the road. I learned quickly to avoid being on a bridge with a car on my ass. A truck or a bus? Stop well before the bridge!

The landscape was either trees and bushes along the road blocking the view or more open fields, well populated with trees.
When I think of Costa Rica I don't think of trees (or at least, I didn't), but the fact is that they are probably the most interesting sights along a lot of the roads I've travelled so far.
The sheer variety is one aspect, the way a single tree can dominate a field is another or the sheer quantity of Tolkien trees is the last and probably most impactful. Unfortunately, I have very few photos since stopping was often unsafe (traffic) or incredibly uncomfortable - the heat, when stopped is overpowering and energy sapping. Also, taking a photo on the phone is becoming increasingly frustrating with a sweaty screen and sweaty fingers.
(This travelogue is suffering too - less stops, difficulty typing or even photos specifically taken to remind me of something combine to leave me with less material to work with at the end of the day. It is genuinely amazing to me just how much detail I can forget in a day's travelling. Take notes people!)
The most frustrating moment was passing a fabulous riverbed on a bridge and catching a glimpse of several large, round boulders. I couldn't be sure if they had neatly rolled into the riverbed or if years of constant flowing had carved the shapes out of solid rock. I had an impression of something special but there was nowhere to stop and park the bike (the bridge would have been suicide).

Told you it was a tree day!

​

It's interesting how many advertising signs are in English. It's pretty clear that there are a lot of Americans living down here as well as holidaying.
I even met one as I cycled along. A pick up pulled alongside me and a pleasant enough looking man called out that he was going to San Jose.
Now, I'm sure he was being friendly, but a big pick up right beside me can be a bit intimidating and based on what he had said I had to presume he was offering me a lift. A moment later he finished his sentence with "you're welcome if you want a ride".
What he couldn't have noticed when he pulled up was the huge grin across my face! I was powering along, the wind keeping me cool and the only noise was the wind in my ears and the gentle whirring of my drivetrain. No protesting hub! I was basking in the serendipity of the road.
Smiling, I turned to him and replied "I'm off to Argentina, you're welcome to follow!" He laughed, wished me a safe journey and sped off. Where was he yesterday?

For quantity and variety I think Costa Rica is ahead

​

There are few roadside comedors here, although the local version is called a "Soda". Fancier and more familiar than previous countries they tend to be on the edges of towns. I pulled into a pleasant one for lunch. Four ladies none of whom will win awards for friendliness had dedicated tasks, including a separate office for payment. A large menuboard was up without prices. The food was fine but I miss the mystery and surprise of what can come from a far more basic Mexican kitchen. Ah, México!

They had a tv on showing the news. One of the stories (nowhere near headline status) was about Daniel Ortega, the Nicaraguan President/Dictator who had been giving out about Costa Rica, "the Switzerland of Central America", a country where everything is for sale, including human dignity. There's an "election" in Nicaragua in November (that's if any of the opposition aren't in jail or simply disappeared!) and it seems like in the way of populists everywhere, Señor Ortega is looking for an enemy. (In fairness, he's eliminated all his internal ones). I was amused by the "here we go again" tone of the news announcer.

Behind me

​

Arriving into Santa Cruz I headed for the Plaza/Park to have a look around. A "normal" town, my first in Costa Rica. A few raindrops and heavy thunder got me thinking. Nicoya was 25km away, generally uphill. I really didn't fancy more cycling in the rain. I poked around looking for a cheap hotel, got directed from one to another until I was happy enough and checked in. An evening in a normal town won't go amiss.

The remains of a church tower with modern church behind. Churches in Costa Rica tend to modern and appear multifunctional, usually with attached halls. Signs proclaiming God tend to be more common in rural areas

​

Exploring after a heavy downpour I was disappointed. Costa Rica is definitely the wealthiest country so far based on the quality of the streets and paths. Lots of cars, new and large. Architecture is uninspiring. I grabbed a coffee and sat in the Plaza, a pretty dull experience.

I'm screwed! I don't like the tourist towns and the regular towns (a sample of one!) are boring!
I am a bad tourist!

Nothing wrong with the Park/Plaza to look at, but it felt dull and uninteresting. Lacking vibrancy and life

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, August 17, 2021, Santa Cruz to Jicaral 73 km Total KM 3832
Min meters 28, Max Meters 169
Total Climb 367 Total Descent 362
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 32

Mommas, Don't Let your Sons Grow up To be Costa Rican Bus Drivers!


I slept well despite constantly waking up. At some stage I just switched off the airco - I was cool but airco isn't agreeing with me.
Up early I made coffee and slowly got organised. Leaving, I saw breakfast being served and asked if I was entitled. Sí. I tend not to leave free food behind me!

There was nothing spectacular today but early in the morning the omens were looking good

​

Setting off a little later, but well fueled, I took backroads out of town. If the town itself comes across as reasonably prosperous, this is where the not so prosperous live in not such prosperous homes.
Soon I was back in the main road .. and in the traffic.

The weather is always interesting and very changeable. There's 15 minutes between this photo and the previous

​

I'm grumpy.
It's been knocking around the past few days and I think it's because I have been spoilt for a long time. Drivers here are a**holes. Not all of them, of course, but enough that I can't relax.
There was the idiot yesterday who tried to overtake me against oncoming traffic, decided when he was parallel to me that he wasn't going to make it so hit the brakes and slowly pulled over to run me off the road. I could talk to him through the open window as he did it!
The idiot today who forced me off the road as he made an overtake coming towards me.
All the idiots who decide to overtake the car that's overtaking me.
The busdriver today who, after we had been stopped by roadworks, ran me into a pile of gravel at the side of the road. I had the lane, he was stopped, no more than five seconds was all I needed to clear the gravel but (heavily cursed) driver hits the accelerator.
I lost count at how many drivers tried to give me a rectal exam, zooming up behind me oblivious to the scene and then jamming on the brakes.
The standard of car may be better here but not the driver!
Not so long ago traffic and my positive interactions with it was a highlight of my days and a legal performance enhancer. Now I just want the feckers to feck off!
Grumpy.

With no traffic it's wonderful country! With a place to stop and get off the bike even better!

​

That's one of the reasons that I have so few photos today. Too feckin' dangerous!
Another is the heat. Moving is ok as I have a bit of wind to mitigate the worst of the heat. Stop? My body expels water like I'm a wandering fire hydrant!

Thankfully, after about 8am the traffic lightened and later I bypassed Nicoya. Desperate for a cold drink I stopped off in a Burger King. The airco nearly killed me!
I'm carrying out an experiment, ditching my usual merino top for a quick drying synthetic t shirt with a fine mesh.
I much, much prefer the merino as it is so comfortable but it is delicate when it comes to washing and especially drying.
My super wicking t shirt is killing my nipples! I bring this up now because Airco!

Outside an American approached me. Living here for 17 years he doesn't want to ever go back but has to bury his wife (ashes) who died last October. Ordinarily, the human reaction is to have sympathy but this chap used the upcoming trip as an opportunity to rant against the direction of the US, immigration was ruining the country (without a trace of irony!) and then Afghanistan and Vietnam. He didn't quite put flesh to his thoughts but there was a definite vibe of "destroy them all and problem solved". It was interesting how a general and typical conversation ("Where are you headed to?") turned into a one way rant. Interesting too that he seems to be a breakfast regular in Burger King.

There's a fair bit of farming going on. Fields tend to be big and there is evidence of tractors. For a cyclist it means lots of mud and muck where farm roads meet the main road.

​

I set off again up a bloody big hill but now I was off the main road and had the reward of much less traffic. A lot of heat though!

It was more pleasant cycling to be sure, rolling with pauses wherever I might find a bit of shade - very rare. Going up was tough, not from a cycling perspective, but from the heat - less speed meant less wind meant more sweat. Stopping was unpleasant so few photos were taken.

Clouds doing their thing with the mountains.

​

Coming to a junction where I'd take an even smaller road (yaaay!) I pulled in at a Soda for a surprisingly large lunch. It needed a bit of digestion so I sipped a cold drink and looked a bit ahead.
I'm on a peninsula and need a ferry to cross back to the mainland. There appear to be two options, the closer, with no accommodation options (at least none that won't cost my arms and legs) or a further, hillier one that has some cheaper options. I'll not be taking the ferry today in any case as I don't fancy hitting Punta Arenas, a port town, in the dark.

Setting off again I figured I'd push myself for the far crossing although the climbing was a bit scary in this heat.
A narrower road was quieter and I have a vivid memory of seeing a lush, green field of pasture that had the most vital yellow/golden tint to it. Really, it was special, a field with a golden hue. On a camera? Nada!

An old bridge, not unusual in these parts.

​

On a straight stretch with a car parked on the opposite side of the road ahead and a big truck lumbering up behind me a speeder popped up heading towards me. Quick calculations had us all in the same vicinity at the same time so I indicated right and pulled off into the verge.
This greatly impressed the truck driver who stopped, greeted me warmly and thanked me for being so good!
Yep! He stopped to thank me for not slowing him down!
Unfortunately, setting off again he blasted me with foul, black, exhaust fumes!

The rivers, though? They call out to me! What would it be like to hop into a kayak and pedal on down?

​

Not quite 2pm and the sky was turning dark again. Thunder had been rolling for a while and I'd seen lightning flashing down in the distance. Rain and storms can be very local here, it's not unusual to come across a section of road totally drenched while I never saw a drop. I wasn't too worried.
Until I was approaching Jicaral. About 2km out, big, fat raindrops started lazily falling down. Then not so lazily. I pushed hard and made it to the town and grabbed a coffee at a bakery with shelter. For a few minutes it looked like a false alarm and then, from one moment to the next there was nothing false!
Rain here really is amazing! There is just so much water! Amazing too are the drainage systems, gone from bone dry to gushing rivers in minutes!
For the guts of an hour I nursed my coffee and had a think.
The nearest ferry crossing was 20km away. That was doable in the morning for an 8am ferry. The furthest was looking doubtful for today.
This is the thing, light rain I can cycle in, but the heavy, heavy stuff? That's lethal in all kinds of ways. It's just not safe. And the rain wasn't finished. And the dense cloud was blocking a lot of light.

Every bit of shade gets used!​

When it lightened, I set off to find a motel listed in Osmand. Ruins! The rain was cyclable but if it got heavier?
I doubled back out to the edge of town to a motel type place I'd passed. Not cheap, but cheaper than I'd find down the road. Decent wifi so I took a room.
(A good call as it turned out! The lashing rain returned within the hour!)

I had a cold shower, got to update this and had a bite to eat.
Tomorrow is an early start, race to the ferry (if I miss the one at 8 I have to wait till 12:30) and then head on down the mainland. I'll be going along the coast so accommodation is eye wateringly expensive and the options to camp are probably a bit too far away.

It's a funny old world.
Nothing remarkable about the day. Best thing was making the coffee place before the real downpour. Then I flick through my photos for the day and I see this.
I cycled this road!
Today!
I am spoilt!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, August 18, 2021, Jicaral to Jaco 100 km Total KM 3932
Min meters -13, Max Meters 251
Total Climb 761 Total Descent 770
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 27

Back on a boat!

Not a fan of deadlines on the bike, I have to say that this morning was one of the better ones.
Up, coffee, leaving at 6 and I was flying! Minimal traffic, relative coolness and rich green countryside. Low clouds, a bit of mist, lush, still mysterious flora and the morning light can really work magic. 21 very pleasant km in one hour. And then I waited!

Morning light can be wonderful!

​

Eventually the ticket office opened (right as a busload of passengers arrived) and I got my ticket.
The incoming ferry arrived and watching it disgorge its cargo of people, motorcycles, cars and trucks was interesting and not a little chaotic! Then our turn.

Costa Rica was seducing me with stunning scenery and the quiet roads to properly appreciate it

​

There was a lot of metaphorical pushing and shoving amongst the traffic - I was traffic. It made not a blind bit of difference. Two "directors of transport" indicated who got on next. It seemed neither fair nor scientific.
On board, I went to the top deck for the views.

Now that's a view! To the right of the wake is a small wave. These were common and appeared to be a school of small, silvery fish. Every now and then the "wave" would become a heaving mass of silvery fish. I don't know if they were being chased by bigger fish underneath or if this was their normal mode of travel

​

It was a very pleasant crossing in the sense of the views, to be sure, but it seems as I have travelled south people have become less friendly, less engaging. Trying to figure out why I was feeling less likely to take photos on the ferry I realised that people aren't smiling. A group of teenage lads, probably a football team, seemed to dominate the area and a chill was in the air despite the temperature.

The very, very quiet beachfront at Puntarenas. It looked nice bit there was precious little relief from the very hot sun.

​

Puntarenas was chaos! Off the boat it was an unpleasant free for all. I was glad I hadn't arrived in the dark!
I ignored Gizmo and headed for the "beach" and a surprisingly empty road. First impressions can be deceiving and my initial impression of a beautiful scene was corrected by the sight of the "beach".

I was hungry but the only places open (and not many of those) seemed to be operated by or serving people on their way home from last night. I passed.

I also passed Tsunami escape signs! Since México warning signs on public buildings covered fire and earthquake. Now I have to think of Tsunamis as well!

The beach at Puntarenas

​

The port at Puntarenas is at the tip of a long, narrow peninsula. I joined the main road that was either 2,3 or 4 lanes. Eventually a cycle path showed up in the middle and I was very relieved to take it.

Soon, I was back out in the country on a rough bike lane of sorts. Leaving Puntarenas was both a blessing and a curse. It was a bit crazy (blessing) but I hadn't eaten and needed water (curse). I stuck to the bike "lane" even when it got bad because if offered shade! The road was scorching. I could feel my skin prickling in the heat.

At a bridge, shoulder and bike lane disappeared and on the other side a woman and two children were watching monkeys in a tree. I stopped but the sun was unbearable.
Then the path got really rough with rocks and roots but I stuck with it up a climb for the shade. The heat is really something to be experienced!

Spying a shop back from the road I pulled in for a big cold drink and some snacks to fill my belly. It wasn't healthy food but I was taking no chances on something better showing up for a while.
While sitting in the shade, I was called over to see a family of monkeys visiting (and a healthy, large iguana!). There's a "monkey" mountain behind the house and the monkeys come down for bananas that they leave out for them!
What a delightful and unexpected treat!

Down from "monkey mountain" for a banana!

​

On again and the bike path petered out. There was a shoulder of varying widths that allowed progress, if not exactly comfortable due to traffic.
I was cutting inland now, away from the ocean and the road was rolling with a fair bit of climbing.
I'd been hoping to come across a cheap motel type place but there was nothing.
Coming to a junction I took the exit for the coast again to find it was a toll road. No problem - I was waved through. But then the rain started.
Spying a roadside restaurant I pulled in for some sausages and chips - I needed salt!

The rain never progressed beyond a heavy drizzle so I set off again. Next on the itinerary was the Crocodile Bridge!
I don't know if it's me or something else but it was both exactly what I expected and yet not.
A long bridge with separated pedestrian walkways it's easy to walk along to an island near the middle where the crocs hang out. There's quite a few and it is an impressive sight. But there's also lots of other people there! A couple of them were the identikit examples of spoilt brats, shouting and screaming. Their adults weren't much better, hogging the prime spot and refusing to move.
People throw food down for their entertainment which disappointed me and, of course, there are a couple of guys hanging around to "guide" newcomers to the spot (just walk across the bridge to where the other people are!!) and to sell "genuine" crocodile teeth attached to ribbons.

From the crocodile bridge

​

Andy Peat's photos (CGOAB) have stuck in my head since I first saw them. A very different scene and proof that he was in a very different part of the world. I'm sure that mine are similar to his and yes, they are evidence that I'm far from home, the human behaviour wasn't all that strange at all!
I was more impressed at the overall vista - a big river and a wide, varied landscape with the ability to stop safely and photograph it.
The cynical part of me wondered why cattle along the shore, only a couple of hundred meters downstream from these killing machines looked so comfortable. Just how well fed (and therefore stage managed) are these crocs?
I preferred my impromptu sighting a couple of days ago just as my monkey experience this morning is preferable to taking one of the many, many tours advertised.

The Cynical Shot. All the crocs had to do was drift downstream......

​

Back on the road again it was looking like Jaco would be my destination making today a bit long. Unfortunately, to get to Jaco there was a 200 meter climb straight up (with lots of big numbers on Osmand) and then steeper back to sea level. For nothing!

I did see a sign for a campground, followed a bumpy track to find it closed so braced myself for one last push before I lost the light.

It was not pleasant. For some reason the traffic was now in big packs - on both sides. A climbing lane just encouraged people to be idiots so I gave up cycling and pushed. It was safer.

From the pointless climb

​

There wasn't even a decent view at the top and the descent was very uncomfortable because there was no shoulder at all.

In fading light I hit Jaco, another "surf" town. Hotels are crazy expensive and any cheaper looking places were so divey looking I'd need a wetsuit to survive.
A campground in town looked closed, but would have been very noisy.
Hopping out of town to a Paintball/BMX/Skateboard place mentioned on iOverlander I was made most welcome.
I popped back into town to buy some food, returned and cooked up eggs and tomatoes to eat with pepperoni on (horrible) bread.

I am not enjoying these towns. Way too touristy for me. I did not come to Central America to eat wood fired Pizza and I have no idea how a restaurant in Jaco, Costa Rica can claim to have the "Original Belgian Waffles".
I particularly dislike how access to the beach is closed off by private businesses. There are more than a few shifty looking characters. They yell out to me all the time trying to earn a commission for tours or restaurants. One guy yelled at me about taking an adventure tour. I wanted to yell back just what the hell did he think I was doing??
I can go canyoning, ziplining, surfing, banana boating, skydiving, all terrain vehicling, monkey tours, crocodile tours, helicopter tours. And a chocolate tour!😀

I didn't have to worry about the rain falling all night - I set up beside the BMX ramps under a roof!


Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, August 19, 2021, Jaco to Bandera 51 km Total KM 3983
Min meters 25, Max Meters 61
Total Climb 163 Total Descent 151
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 32

Short day and meeting the wildlife

Despite the kindness that I received at my camping spot, there were two barriers to a good night's sleep. One was traffic thundering on the nearby road and the other was fire ants who seemed to have conquered the site. Getting into the tent was done swiftly and antless ( or so I believed) but the thing with ants, or similar creepy crawlies, is that if you are aware of them, they can be everywhere - even just the mind. Many, many times I was awakened by phantoms crawling on me.

Up at six I had coffee and set off back to look at Jaco in daylight. It wasn't my smartest move.
Depressing is the word that comes to mind. Higgledy-piggledy rows of surfshops, tour offices, bars, restaurants and fast food places, all closed at that early hour.
The shifty crew were out, trying to entice me to do something, anything. I found a place for a bite of breakfast and used their internet to check my mail. I need to make an appointment to get a Covid test and I can't seem to do it online. I'd bought a sim card a few days ago but can't get it to work. The company has a store in Jaco so I decided to wait until it opened at 9.

The rather disappointing beachfront at Jaco. I don't like to see beaches as commercial zones

​

I'm planning a shortish day today for no other reason than my Covid test is in the next big town and after that it's a race to the border. My info on Panama is that I won't be doing too much wandering there, either!

Once I got going things became more pleasant

​

It took a long, long time to get my card working and at last I was on the road. Oh, the traffic!
After a few kms I came to a kind of viewing point and could look back on Jaco. Best of all though, a little further on there were Macaws or Quetzals in the trees. Their voices are harsh but they fly so gracefully! A group of young ones were playing, dive bombing. I felt very privileged!
I suppose this is the contrast with Costa Rica and the other Central American countries - here the animals have survived and continue to thrive. Having said that, I haven't seen any traditional clothing either.

The Ocean. The Pacific Ocean! I still get a little thrill when I say Pacific! It means I've travelled far!

​

Back in the road it was curvy, hot, rolling, hot and busy at times. Most traffic was coming against me, some too close. I had a shoulder that varied in width and was regularly filled with stones, gravel or mud from the many side roads. There were many crash barriers but most had been consumed by the plant life!
I had an encounter with one of the surf heads. Cycling along a feckin' idiot appears in front of me from behind a parked bus yelling "Yeah maaaaaaaan! I love your attituuuuuuuuuuude" while sticking his fist out for a fistbump. His addled brain clearly didn't process the fact that he was driving me into traffic! He very nearly got a fistbump alright - right to the head.

You may have to look hard but there is a Quetzal (Macaw) up there!

​

I find myself missing México and its chaos. I rarely felt unsafe. There was a kind of benovalance to the madness, lots of smiles and sheepish shrugs but always the idea that people were watching out for each other. That's lacking here. No. 1 is all that matters.

On a figary I turned down a side road to the coast and travelled a couple of kms on a beach road. More Quetzals in a tree, again all to myself. I set off again, found a store and bought the ingredients for an impromptu picnic on the thin beach. While eating, an iguana came over to say hello!
This is my kind of touring!

Bimbling along the beach. I was going the wrong way but what did that matter? The road went "the wrong way" and I wanted to explore it - the glory of a short day!

​

It is very hard not to be impressed by such a thing!

Back on the main road I was making decent progress. The place I was going to (camping again) was a Swiss run place, hard to find, but with great reviews on iOverlander. I tried to call now that I had a working phone but I had no signal.

One of my better "eat at the side of the road" spots!

​

I got lost on my first attempt, came at it from a different angle down deceptive gravel roads with big puddles and arrived at the place.
For sale or rent!
There was no answer to the bell but a sign saying to ask Mario in a shop down the road. I located Mario, very friendly and very impressed with my journey and he cycled back with me to let me in.
There's a Swiss couple caretaking (not the owners) with not a word of Spanish or English between them. I was back to relying on my German! Oh dear!
They were very friendly, he seemed delighted to be able to speak German (I couldn't crush his bubble and nodded and smiled at what I hoped were appropriate times) as he rabbited on.
There's a French family here too - No German, only French & Spanish! It was very, very confusing!

My iguana friend at lunch! As a terrible sissy who hates creepy crawlies I had dreaded the exposure this trip might force upon me. As things have turned out I seem to be braver than I gave myself credit for!

​

I have a roof over my tent and a nice relaxing place to stay. Decent Wifi too - but no phone signal.

The plan tomorrow is an early departure, ride the 35km to Quepos and try to talk them into giving me a test without an appointment.
After that I have 72 hours to get to the border!

On the way to the campground. Big, gloomy Palm forests can have a chilling effect

​

Oh, once I get my Paypal sorted, hopefully easier with a working phone, I'll be booking passage on a boat leaving from south east Panama to Colombia, departing September 10!
Back on a boat! That's something to be looking forward to!

It's always nice to make a new friend! It's difficult to tell from the photo but he came to within a meter of me as I ate.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 20, 2021, Bandera to Uvita 102 km Total KM 4085
Min meters -29, Max Meters 89
Total Climb 270 Total Descent 259
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 27

Jagged Little Hills

The nights are hot in the tent! Just getting in works up a sweat! My sleeping bag liner (all I sleep on or in) is starting to stink! I did debate whether to move the tent outside to benefit from whatever breeze there is, but the risk is rain. And a slower departure. I stayed where I was.

These early morning starts can be rewarding!

​

Awake before the alarm I appreciated the silence of the morning. Then up and started coffee. It's amazing how much of a mess I can make when given the space! I set about getting packed, enjoyed my coffee and set about packing up my tent.
My Swiss friend was up to walk two fabulous looking shepherds down to the beach a few kms away. He was amazed by my tent and the ease it came down and got packed away. He should see my pyramid one!

I'll say one thing for a Swiss run place - it had the softest, gentlest, kindest toilet paper my poor bum has been exposed to in ages!

Once I'd had my coffee I could feel that little knot of anxiety kick in down in my belly. The what-ifs of the day. No appointment, hoping to be able to walk up and get the test, then, once I had the test starting a race to the border.
Just after 6am I was leaving to pleasant farewells from the Swiss.
At the gate I took a deep breath and turned the wrong way.
To the beach.
Not today, anxiety, I said.
Not today.

Not today

​

I bounced and slid a few kms down to quite a nice beach that had picnic tables as well. At that hour no-one around to bother me - just the big waves breaking and a few vultures. I checked and the anxiety was gone. Time to hit the road.

I retraced my steps along the gravel, around the potholes, through the big puddles until I joined the main road. Busy!
I joined the busyness. Cool at that hour I put the foot down. There were more than a few people travelling by bike so I got to zoom past them when traffic permitted, or slow right down when it didn't.

If someone had told me I'd be cycling through a field of Palm trees on a bouncy, adventurous road I'd have been delighted! The reality is a tad gloomier and darker than I'd have imagined!

​

At the next town I pulled in to a bakery for a snack and some juice then back on the road with slightly lighter traffic.

Views were few but forested hills came to life as the sun rose. One view, dead ahead, was perfect, green and blue mountains standing proudly over low clouds. Except they weren't clouds - it was smoke from a plant that when I passed figured was maybe a place for processing palm oil.

Early morning scenery

​

Arriving into Quepos well ahead of time I pulled in for another cold drink and to look at the ocean. I am drinking gallons of liquids in these conditions.

Finding the (private) hospital for the test was tricky despite having gps - it's just one of a number of commercial units in a gated marina/mall.
A friendly lady at the gate confirmed I was in the right place and assured me my bike would be safe.
Even finding the place in the compound was not easy but spying a nurse I turned on the charm and was practically walked up the stairs to the place.

It all took less than an hour - I'm getting good at this! - and I was back on the road, my results arriving by email later.

Just one of many rivers crossed today. Some are muddy brown, others much clearer. Always when I see rivers or cycle along them the idea starts knocking around of a bike/kayak trip. A collapsible kayak, a fold up bike, camping gear - the adventures are endless!

​

A tough climb out of town, some nice, twisty roads and I rejoined the main road.
Where to? As far south as I can go! The border is about 200km away and I have 72 hours to get through! The more I do today, the less over the next couple of days.
If I push myself today I might get to camp again tonight.

After about an hour with a hunger nibbling at my belly I pulled into a large soda for an omelette and coffee. It probably seats about 200 people (with parking for no more than 50!) and is very different from my preferred smaller places. The waitress replies with "Mucho Gusto" to each request (with great pleasure) but her tone and body language says otherwise.

When I say that Costa Rica is teeming with life and it is all around me this is what I mean! This is right beside me as I ride. I can touch it. It wets me after rain. I can hear animals moving around when I stop. Glorious!

​

The next border crossing is in my own hands now. 200 km. I can do that. I'm back in control and that feels good.

I set off again full of vim and vigour. Today seemed to be slightly cooler and a bit of wind helped too. The road ran along the coast then turned inland then back to the coast all day long. Inland, even though not that far from the ocean, I was likely to hit invisible clouds of hot, wet air.
It's really difficult to undersell the importance of a regular cold drink when I'm breathing hot air all the time. The relief is amazing! Tepid does not cut it.

When I can forget about the traffic it really is a magnificent place

​

There was a particularly long, straight stretch through a palm tree forest. These were not happy palms, looking dark and unhealthy. I believe I'm in Palm Oil farming country. Quite spooky in fact. If Costa Rica damages my affinity for Palm Trees I'm going to be one very unhappy bunny!

The Palm Tree Straight. Dull, borderline spooky and possibly detrimental to my image of a Palm as a happy, joyful tree!

​

I was keeping my eyes open for a place to stay but seeing little, and none in my price range and feeling pretty good I just kept on going. If I can hit 100km I know of camping options in iOverlander. I had a pretty decent shoulder and that helped enormously with keeping a decent speed.

Despite being very close to the ocean I only got to see it in bits and pieces. Normally there were trees in the way. But the other side was always interesting with heavily planted hills, waterfalls and several rivers to be crossed. Some were an orange brown from mud while others were the most alluring blue/green crystal. More than once I stopped and looked for a way down. A quick dip would be glorious! (Was it yesterday I was looking at crocodiles in a river?).

Taking a detour to the Pacific! I had a chat with myself here to remind myself just how damn lucky I am to be able to turn off and visit the Pacific - the feckin' Pacific! - at will.

​

I stopped off at a filling station for a cold drink, an ice cream and to top up my tyres and got a bonus visit from an iguana!
Bold as brass he wandered around the forecourt not bothered by the noise or the smells nor by me in hot pursuit! It felt very "real", normal and nobody else seemed interested.

Having not seen the ocean for a while I pulled off at the small town of Dominical and checked out the beach. Apparently it's possible to camp at a restaurant.
There was a pleasant open air craft market and lots of hostels and lots and lots of guys hanging out in the beach to give surfing lessons. With about 25km to get to Uvita I decided to press on.

The last stretch was the most difficult. It was lumpy, lumpy enough for a climbing lane to appear a few times and busy too. I passed a sign indicating that this was the gathering point for those fleeing a tsunami and presumed that the worst of the climbing was over. Almost.

I did stop at a shaded bus stop at the top of one climb and was again captivated for ages by ants marching both directions on a narrow line. The industry is amazing! The speed is phenomenal! Perhaps I'm going a bit loopy but I found it very interesting!

The last stretch wasn't too bad as I was able to skip past most of the town. Down a side road and almost at the beach I found my place, was welcomed by a guy working on a roof and told to pitch where I wanted.
Once down he came over for a chat and to give me two tarps - one for under and the other for over the tent. I've wifi, very basic toilets and a shower and a beautiful location where I can hear the sea. Best of all it's away from the mayhem!

I left my gear and hit a nearby store for food for dinner and a bit more alcohol for the trangia.
While cooking I got the tent set up just in time for rain!

I've eaten well, have a table and chair under a roof and am waiting for the rain to stop. Osmand tells me I have 139km to the border and email tells me I failed my Covid test - negative.

It's coming back! Some of the joy that has been replaced by grumpiness was tangible today. For the next while I'm in charge of my own destiny. No tests. No deadlines. No rules.
That feels good.

When this is the road to my camping spot I just know I'm in for a treat!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Saturday, August 21, 2021, Uvita to Rio Claro 102 km Total KM 4187
Min meters 9, Max Meters 144
Total Climb 699 Total Descent 658
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 30


Getting sick of racing for the border!


That feeling of control I was prattling on about yesterday? That came back to bite me in the ass!
Feckin' online forms!!!

My dinner last night was fabulous even if I say so myself.
Herbed sausages, cooked slowly, mixed in with a meaty tomato sauce and pasta shells (I was at the coast!). Delicious!

Afterwards, I set about utilising the wifi to log my visit to Panamá. There's an online form that I'd checked out before and now that I had my Covid test I could complete it.
Every country is different in the information they want. Panamá wanted next of kin info. An accommodation address was easy thanks to Google. My date of birth a nightmare - an automatic calendar that made me go back month by month to nineteen feckin' seventy two!!!

All completed and the system said no. I checked, double checked, took a break and went back to triple check.
I started off fresh. My feckin' date of birth - again! Still no.
About three hours I spent until my phone died.

My camping spot. The ocean is behind the trees. I'd have heard the waves the night before only for the rain!

​

I'm pretty sure I can supply the info at the border - it just means everything might go slower. That means a Monday morning crossing might make the Covid test invalid - it's only "live" for 72 hours.
Feck! Feck! Triple Feck!

I ducked through the rain to the tent and it didn't take long to fall asleep. It was past 10pm and normally with the tent I'm in before 8.

I slept ok, but it was hot. Up at six, slowly, made coffee and even a light breakfast - boiled eggs, bread and peanut butter.
Dumbass had forgotten about an avacado in his food bag - that required a clean up!
The tent was surprisingly dry so I got that packed up. I even had another shot at the Panamanian immigration form. Ha! Dumbass!

I decided to make today a long one so as to give me as much breathing space at the border. I do not want to catch a bus back to the Capital, do another Covid test and bus back to the border.

Back on the road and facing into a long day. But the scenery!

​

I took a quick look at the beach and then headed off. A quick, stiff climb greeted me and after that lots of ups and downs. The early traffic was not bike friendly, a theme that carried on through the day. The majority were fine but there were enough asswipes, evenly spread along the road, that relaxing was difficult.
I passed Tortega beach and cursed Covid. There would have been nothing to see at this hour but this is a turtle hatching beach.
Later, I'd pass a turnoff for a supposedly great camping spot in the jungle and miss the chance to camp at a Costa Rican church. (Surprisingly, I've come across a few accounts of the Bomberos (fire brigade) refusing a roof in Costa Rica).
I was grumpy again. A lovely, interesting, laid back route could have been done along here. Feck you, Covid.

The depth, variety sheer life that exits along the road, right beside me, is a joy to behold

​

At Palmar Norte I rejoined the Pan-American after crossing a huge, wide, brown river and immediately lost my shoulder. That helped my mood!

In fairness, tbough, Costa Rica is never boring to cycle through. There is always something to see, often something to hear and even sometimes something to feel - even if that is cloying heat. In fact, so interesting is the landscape that it was quite a while before I realised that I'd left the Pacific behind and won't be seeing it for a while!

Not quite the wildlife I expected to see! At a petrol station of all places. A couple on MTBs pulled up for a selfie with the dinosaur so I offered to take one of the two of them. It's a trick I've been using since México to strike up a conversation but this time it didn't work. They just ignored me!

​

I was making good, steady progress (except on the uphill bits)

I had crossed innumerable rivers, some small, some larger but all with narrow, dangerous bridges to stop on. At Piedras Blancas (white rocks) I took a chance and parked up at the end of the bridge.
Bad move. A passing truck created such a draught the bike fell over.
Normally, a loaded bike falling over isn't a big deal - panniers are like buffers! Not this time!
The first thing I noticed was my mirror got smashed to pieces. And my handlebars no longer pointed forward.
In the meantime the peaceful river had become a raging torrent!

Piedras Blancas - White Rocks

​

I got straightened out and set off again up a hill. Then my rear gear changer seized. There was feck all I could do on a shoulderless road so I made do until I came to a bus stop. The cable seemed fine - it worked when I pulled it by hand. Then I saw the problem.
My hair band brake "locks" had fallen off when the bike fell. I wasn't careful putting them back on and one had got caught around the trigger. An easy fix!

Piedras Blancas six minutes later! That's some serious floodwater! And an omen of what's to come!

​

According to the map I was passing through several small towns but according to reality I passed a few houses every now and then. I had hoped to have better accommodation options but now it looked like Rio Claro would be my destination.

A Palm Graveyard

​

The next concern was the weather. Ominous looking clouds were massing on my left. Drops of rain threatened a few times but never got too serious. I stopped at a couple of bus stops just in case but the rain held at light.
At one, I saw a terribly sad sight. A very recently killed dog, lying in the long grass in a gully beside the road was being searched for by a smaller, straggly, mongrel. On the quiet road I could see him trying (and failing) to follow the scent of his buddy. Then traffic came and he panicked. With him running to and fro on the road, a truck in one lane, an SUV in another and me jumping up and down waving arms it's a miracle nothing happened.

The last photo before the rain started to fall

​

The dog wouldn't come to me (probably just as well - what was I going to do with a dog) but returned to sniffing around the middle of the road.
For his own safety I three stones at him until he wandered off up a lane and, I presume, home.

Passing through some more spooky Palm forests

​

That'll put a dampener on any day so I wasn't that bothered that Rio Claro wasn't exactly an architectural wonder, but more a busy town built around a crossroads. I found a cheap motel-like place, had a cold shower, found the only bike shop in town to be looked at like a lunatic for asking about a mirror, ate a reasonable pizza and went to bed.

Costa Rica - it really is a lush, captivating place​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Sunday, August 22, 2021, Rio Claro (Costa Rica) to David (Panamá) 89 km Total KM 4276
Min meters 27, Max Meters 290
Total Climb 532 Total Descent 475
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 30

Border Bureaucrats B*lli*ing up my day!

I hated Panama even before I had turned one pedal stroke in the place.
Given the run around Costa Rica gave me trying to leave that was some job by Panamá!

Up about six I was feeling strange this morning. I went without coffee but ate some peanut butter and bread. I figured I'd grab a coffee on the road.

Heading off to country number seven!

​

Before leaving town I went to a bank for dollars (Panamá uses dollars) but none were available so I set off. About 30km to the border. After that who knew?

A couple of boy racers kept me focused and I can't really say that I particularly enjoyed my last day in C.R. I found a dual currency ATM in the next town, got some dollars and set off again. Still no coffee though.

Still got time to photograph a river!

​

A line of trucks told me I was approaching the border.
I found the CR immigration building more by chance than design, queued (with no-one in front if me) for a very unhelpful and uninterested lady.
As it turned out, I had to cross the road to a yellow building to pay my exit tax.
No problem!
There were actually several buildings offering the service - I had my pick.
Tomorrow. Because they were all closed today.
I went back to Ms. Unhelpful who agreed that, yes, they were all closed - until tomorrow, Monday!
And no, there were no alternatives.

To say that I was peed off would be an understatement. Two days racing to get here in plenty of time in case of a foul up and I'm going to lose a day doing nothing in a crappy border town.
There was a whole online rigmarole I had to complete to enter Costa Rica - would it be beyond expectations to have similar to pay an exit tax?

Back to my happy place!

​

Ms Unhelpful was particularly obnoxious. I watched her time after time direct people across the road. I saw their confidence falter as one after another it became clear that the offices were closed. I saw the confusion as they wandered back to her window and watched the disappointment fall over them.

I bought a coke (for the caffeine), smoked a couple of ciggies and thought.
I could just leave! What's the worst that could happen?
I decided to play the long game and watch what was happening. I wasn't the only one in this situation.
Sure enough, a man approached me and directed me to a building across the street. I checked, it seemed legit and paid my fee to leave, with a bit of a tip.

Back at immigration Ms Whatever was gone and a new guy checked my passport, never checked my receipt and sent me on my way!!

Panamá here I come!!

There's a busy shopping street between both posts and spotting a bike shop I popped in. I needed glue for puncture repairs and asked about a mirror. Glue wasn't an issue and the two hombres set off like men on a mission for the mirror! They knew they had one - somewhere!
One lad came back with a huge motorbike one and as I was outside trying to see if ut would work he found a cheapy, Chinese one. Sold!

I was delighted and in great form heading for Panama.

The Panamanian Immigration building. There are no barriers, people can walk over and back. And do. My printing (and a Covid test had I done one) were in Panama.

​

The immigration building was easier to find so I got my stuff ready:
Covid Test - on the phone
Covid Vaccine - on the phone plus paper copy.
Passport.
All the info that could slow me down - hotel in Panama with all contact info etc.
I was ready!

First I was given a form to fill in with most of the same info from the online form that wouldn't process. But no pen!

Done, I rejoined the queue and was asked for my Covid test. I handed over the phone.
No. Paper copy only.
I set off to find a copy place (easy) but I had no internet to email the file.
Back to bike, unpack adapters and manually transfer file to a memory stick.

I was ready for everything! I got it printed.

Back in line. Presented the paper copy of my negative test.
No good. It needs a stamp from the clinic and signature of doctor.

I could feel the anger rising but I tried to keep calm. I've a record of a chat conversation I had more than a week ago about this and no mention. Also, it IS possible to get a Covid test at the border - the complete opposite of what I was told.
None of the "rules" said anything about such conditions.

I raced 200 km to here for sweet f**k all.

I had two options - go get a local Covid test or wait for the Jefe/Boss to rule on the validity of my Covid test.

I'm waiting.

This isn't even immigration proper. This is a medical hoop to jump through.
An American couple were also incredibly stressed out and opted to get local Covid tests (despite having Costa Rican ones). Then they also had to prove they were departing the country - a rental car agreement from San Jose, Costa Rica wasn't proof enough!
And all I have is a bike!!

I sat on the steps and waited.
I saw a guy who seemed to be a trouble shooter occasionally taking money from people.
I checked once if there was any word from the boss. No.
That feeling of being in control I was boasting about? That was shattered!
I had done all that was asked. I had tried to be respectful at every stage, to follow the instructions.
The man, though, was obnoxious. Several times I explained that I couldn't understand what to do next only to get a barrage of angry Spanish.
I'd tried to interpret for the older couple and I think that really annoyed him.

I saw him going away so checked to see his replacement and was disappointed to see it was the same lady I'd talked to earlier.
Then a young couple showed up and despite having passed the "doctor" formalities they couldn't proceed either.
In chatting, I saw that they had the exact same results as me. I questioned why theirs were accepted to find out he'd done the same to them!
When he returned to the office they got the all clear, so did I and, at last, I could begin the immigration process.

That took about five minutes - photos, fingerprints and my bike was taken as proof of my onward travel. (That really peed off the couple who had been forced to buy two bus tickets they wouldn't use - $90!

Taken on the wrong side of the road, my first view of Panamá proper. A bloody big hill! I was drained after my immigration experience

​

I was exhausted! I'd arrived about 9:30 and it was well after 2pm now. The idea of taking a hotel at the border had appeal but honestly I just wanted to get as far away from that place as possible.
Finding a bakery I munched down some fuel and hit the Pan American again.

What is it with new countries and hills? It didn't matter. They could have laid mines, dug trenches and had an Indiana Jones style boulder come rushing down the hill and I still would have powered up - anything to get away from that feckin' border!!

Now we're talking!! A big four lane split highway! That's the Pan American! And a separate lane for me for bridges!

​

My first impression of Panamá had to do with the road - 4 wide lanes, split, with a very generous shoulder! This is what a Pan Continental road looks like!
Once that novelty wore off I realised the stark difference to Costa Rica. Vegetation was nowhere near as dense. In fact, I developed a mental image of huge earth movers scraping everything out of the way to make this road. I could almost hear the sounds of anguish, plant and animal, in the roar of every car and truck going by. And litter. Lots of roadside litter.
It's not often that there is such a startling change in such a small distance.

One thing that did impress me though was that bridges had a separated lane for pedestrians/bike in place of the shoulder. A good thing given that there are a lot of rivers.

Looking back.....

​

Truthfully, my mind was on La Concepción about 30km down (and up) the road. It was the first civilisation and had a hostal, or simple hotel. My first night in Panamá!

The cycling was nothing to write home about - big road, shoulder, dull landscape. Then after about 10km I faced into about 10km of climbing. Hot. Very hot!
At the top I spied a filling station and they had coffee! I was only about 10km away but a coffee never hurts! I found a kerb and drank a coffee and two liters of water.

Panamá has rivers too! And safe spaces to enjoy them!

​

Back on the road a few raindrops threatened but held off. To my left dark, angry clouds were moving in and I figured I might just make it. La Concepción turned out to be larger, or longer, than I was expecting - very American, I thought. I arrived at the hotel to find it closed.
Oh no!!!! This is not what I wanted!!!

It was getting dark and I was going to have to continue. I knew I had it in my legs, I just didn't have it in my head.
I thought back over my morning, the unhelpful Costa Rican, the obstructive Panamanian and I set off. Fury fuelled!
In fairness, it was mainly downhill but I still pumped like a madman. The few ascents I powered up in the big ring like a man possessed.
I could have had a peaceful, relaxing ride but instead I had this.

The clocks changed with the border crossing. Instead of dark at 6 I had an extra hour of light

​

David is a big place! Traffic picked up and from the edge of town I lost the shoulder. It didn't make a huge difference - I was speeding along.
One place had come in for positive comments on iOverlander so I headed there. Full!
At least it was in a hotel neighborhood so I cruised around a bit rejecting any places that I'd have to go upstairs. I found a better standard than normal for a decent - Panamanian - price and checked in.
Shower, laundry and out for some food. I even treated myself to a beer.

Thank feck today is over!

Panamá. Country number seven

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, August 24, 2021, David to Las Lejas 80km Total KM 4356
Min meters 57, Max Meters 139
Total Climb 844 Total Descent 665
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 32

If Costa Rica is the Cruel Mistress then Panama is her dull sister.

There are days when we wake up and say "No". Yesterday was one of those days.
I was very very tired - physically and mentally.
I had a think and decided that as little as I liked Panamá already (and I wasn't expecting much) it would have no hope of changing my current state of mind.
I'd negotiated the lowest possible rate the night before - would they honour it for another one? Yes they would! Sold!

A dull, grey road, a dull grey sky. A dull, grey day.

​

Even in a better hotel than I'm used to the water is still cold so I was awake quicker. Very tired though.
First job was to replace my front brake pads. Replaced for departure from CDMX it was about time.
Then I went looking for a Panamanian sim card. I need to sort out my Paypal and need a reliable phone number.

Dull, grey countryside. It's not often that I feel so uninspired, but the greyness was seeping in to me.

​

There's a lot of the US in Panama, so far. After Costa Rica, a lot of noise too! The beeping taxis are back. They are infuriating! Don't be surprised if you see in the foreign news section of some lone loon going loco and attacking taxis in some Panamanian city - that'll be me!
With all the grief at the border I never got to exchange my Costa Rican currency. I tried a bank here and it was deemed a bizarre request. "At the border" I was told!

Even when there is a bit of colour, it's brown! Hardly the most stimulating colour!

​

Panama City is a weird one. I know nothing about it and have no desire to change that. But it appears I have to visit and visiting on a bike is not fun.
What should be a highlight (for me!) is crossing the Panama Canal except that's suicidal. I believe the Police ferry cyclists across in vans. Except Sundays.
Parts of city traffic are limited on Sundays, but I'm not sure about the bridge. In any case, it's huge, sprawling and not my idea of fun. I am not looking forward to it!

Oooooh! Some brightness! Is my day about to change?

I also had time to communicate properly with the boat people. Apparently, they waived my need to front up a deposit - apparently I have an honest email style!
That's a bit of pressure off.
They've sent me through more information (other passengers will be shuttling from Panama City). I honestly have no idea of anything but there's a boat that leaves September 10. Food? Nada? Accommodation? Nada!
A boat and arrival in Colombia is all I want!
The crossing will be about 5 days, weather permitting with a couple of side trips.

No matter what I did there was nothing I could do to pull myself out of a dull mental palette. It was simply riding from A to B. So little joy, excitement or anything to tap into.

​

I wasn't particularly impressed with David. A big, big town, busy, lots of people just hanging around. I felt on edge on my wanderings. Unusually for me I couldn't find a decent place to eat either night and what I did eat was disappointing and overpriced.

Why is all this in a post about going from A to B?
Because there is nothing much to write about the actual journey!
Panama continues to underwhelm!

The Underwhelming Highway! And that's rain coming in!

​

I set off under dull, grey skies onto a dull, grey road.
It became progressively more hot, humid and unpleasant as the day wore on. To look at me you'd think I had been swimming - every stitch of clothing is soaking.
I stopped for a dull, uninspiring meal of rice, beef and fried banana. Even the banana was sad.

Rain in Las Lejas

​

With about 10km to go to my destination, Las Lajas, the rain started. It's a small, stretched out village located about 10km from the coast. More in hope I spied an ice cream shop and enquired about coffee - yes! I nearly danced a jig!

That Schweppes! Strong stuff! In all seriousness, even the dogs were dull!

​

Outside, under cover, savouring my coffee I met a Belgian family. We swapped a few Dutch jokes to bond and exchanged stories. On the road four years(!) they have a small tent on the roof of an SUV and a trailer tent. Two adults and three kids - 4 years! I joked about how many had set off!

The kids don't do any schooling at all, the youngest being 9 (and barely remembers home), the eldest being about 15.
I'm sure it's a great experience for them, but what of their furure without any formal education or homeschooling?

Exactly one year ago, another rainy day, but in CDMX. Never dull! Never grey!

​

They did tell me of a hostel back up the road so after they'd left and I finished my coffee I headed back up.
A lovely place, run alongside a gym, the owner is a frantic, hyperactive, kickboxing fanatic and German to boot. My "shared" dorm was just me. I even had hot water in the shower!
A decent kitchen meant I could cook up some food and had a very pleasant evening chatting to the only other resident, a chap from Cologne where I used to live!

'tis a small, small world!

Now this would have made today more fun!

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, August 25, 2021, Las Lejas to Campamento Evangelico La Buena Esperanza, La Mesa 92km Total KM 4448
Min meters 36, Max Meters 450
Total Climb 1350Total Descent 1241
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 28

Hell...... And Heaven

Panamá, after Costa Rica is a bit like going on a date with yer wan down the pizza place after being out with Marissa Tomei - there's some semblance of similarity but you have to squint really, really hard!

Today was going to be a long one and a hard one. For that reason I was up in the darkness a little after 5 and set about making coffee and boiling a few eggs.
Christian, the owner, was up too and his frantic energy put me a little ill at ease. Easily cured, though, by retiring to the balcony and watching the sun come up.

​

By rights I shouldn't have dallied, but this was a beautiful sight, in Panama no less! Somehow it didn't seem right to rush off.
I did, however, forego any urge to bike the 10km or so down to the beach. Another 20km onto a day that might see me break 100 was off-putting.

The morning was pretty.

​

I set off into a delightfully fresh morning with the sun shining.
There are two kinds of heat here - what I call "sun heat" - relatively clear skies and a hot, hot sun and "cloud heat" where dense cloud covers the sky, all heat is trapped beneath and I cook in a wet, steamy oven.
I far prefer the former but it lasted only a short time and cloud heat returned.
At one stage, later in the day I was so hot, so tired that I actually lay down in the shoulder for a bit of relief. The surface was roasting so I wasted no time hopping up! There was a sweatpatch, the shape of a weary cyclist on the shoulder!

Getting brighter and still enjoying my coffee

​

Sweating in these parts is different to any sweating I've done before.
For example, at the end of the day my fingers have that wrinkled effect like I've been swimming.
My ass is suffering too, no doubt because my underwear is damp, then wet within the hour. I don't wear padded shorts and would hate to think what they would be like at the end of a day here!
Salty sweat soon overpowers my bandana so my eyes can water with all the salt dripping down.
I'm trying a different t-shirt and the nipples are protesting less. As much as I'd prefer my Merino top I think it would quickly wear out with all the moisture and I'll be needing it (hopefully) down the road.
I wring the t-shirt out at the end of the day like it's been sitting in a bucket of water.
The most prevalent feeling though is just bleh. A constant, low level thirst that never really goes away and is never sated for long. A cold drink is glorious - for a moment. Then the feeling returns.
At times I'll stop for a pee having felt a familiar pressure only to find there's a dribble. I think my brain is going "he drank two liters of water in the last hour, he needs to pee", while my bladder is going "you're forgetting he's sweated most of that out already!".
Or maybe I'm just getting old!

Heading off into a long day....

​

Perhaps I'm tired but practically nothing of interest happened when I was in the bike. Nothing. Nada. Zilch.
The road is great, seems unusually quiet but is incredibly boring. My eyes look, my ears listen but my imagination does nothing. No spark. Nada.
I try to think about the boat and unusually for me, cannot drum up any enthusiasm. Colombia, it seems, is becoming my Promised Land!

The long and winding road

​

The greatest excitement was that at times the shoulder was overgrown and I'd be forced onto the road.
The worst, though, were the hills - two monsters, one after the other - straight up and straight down. Their location, later in the day, meant I hit them at the worst possible time in the highest temperatures.
The rest of the day was an unrelenting rolling grind.

I try and I try but I can find nothing to inspire me. Perfect road for music - but I have none!

​

Water and food were issues too. There was a minisupermarket about every 30 km or so for water and snacks but no place for proper food. Lots of places closed.
On a day like this I consume vast quantities of water, initially just water, but then mixed with electrolytes. Water quickly warms up and my steaming insides crave something cold. Trying to find something not loaded with sugar to drink is a fool's errand.

My lunch consisted of a prepackaged cinnamon roll, pringles and orange juice. I couldn't even find a banana.
I lived in hope, though, but every food place I passed was closed. It's the hope that kills you!

Every now and then there's something that catches my eye

​

I was pulled at a Police checkpoint, I'm pretty sure the request to see my passport was perfunctory - they just wanted a chat. In opening my barbag I dropped a cereal bar I'd bought and one of them picked it up for me! Then it happened again when I returned my passport!
I saw two motorcycle Police, separately, with speed guns and noted this is the first time I've seen Police solo, doing "normal" Police work and not heavily armed in a long, long time!

Even the mountains are too far away to photograph properly

​

Sometime on the second monster climb it started to rain. Not heavy, but steady. I was cooking and steaming! It stayed that way for the rest of the day.

My target for the day was Santiago, about 125km from where I started. However, I had a fallback - a Christian campground popular on iOverlander, but not reviewed in quite a while.
Exhausted, soaked and more in hope than expectation I pulled off the highway and went looking.
I found the place easy - they had a big sign for Overlanders - toot the horn or call these numbers. However, I had no horn and my wet fingers could not operate my wet phone. Thankfully, someone heard my holas and I was made most, most welcome.

I can find no inspiration here

​

This place has been around 54 years, being improved every year. I got to see an old photo.
Normally used by groups it was popular with individual families during Covid. I am their first Overlander in over a year! And made very welcome.

I camped under the extended roof of a toilet block, with electricity, running water, a shower and toilet.
I made some hot oatmeal and nearly fell asleep eating it!
I slept like a baby, rain falling most of the night. I had washed my liner in David so instead of dried sweat my nose feasted on hotel soap!

Once again, it appears, God is looking out for me!

Another very tough day that ends well

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Thursday, August 26, 2021, Campamento Evangelico La Buena Esperanza to La Mata, Santiago, 39 km Total KM 4487
Min meters ??, Max Meters ??
Total Climb 99 Total Descent 183
Min Temp ? Max Temp ?? Ave Temp Hot!
(Gizmo messed up)

Time for a rethink!

I'll make a wager now. I bet there are fewer Panamanian cycle tourists per capita than just about anywhere else in the world! Because Panamá is feckin' brutal for bike touring!

Tim Tower (CGOAB) rode México to Ushuia in stages. Tim's a smart fella - he skipped Panamá! Now I know why!

I can't recall ever being so bored, so uninspired. There is little that is new, novel or interesting. I'm on a countdown until the next asshat in motorised traffic does something to shock me. The heat is energy sapping.

​

I had a really good sleep that involved falling asleep to the sound of rain and waking, at one stage, so peaceful, that I had to work to remember where I was. It was that kind of place. I felt totally safe and comfortable. Being exhausted helped too!
It was a good night until 5am when my (forgotten) alarm went off! Dumbass!
I rolled over and back to sleep.

The sign outside, especially for people like me!

​

It was almost 9 when I dragged myself out of the scratcher and almost noon when I was hitting the road. I said my goodbyes. A special place.

Heading back to the PA. The nicest stretch of road all day

​

Back on the feckin' Pan American (how fickle am I?) I toddled across to a filling station. No shop! All I wanted was some cold water and maybe a sugar fix. I was feeling lethargic. They did have a fridge though, so I got a coke and a water. The guy in charge, all of 15 years old (a guess) was a few cents short of change so insisted I take some apples instead! One was enough for me.
While I munched I watched him dealing with people in a way that many older people would struggle to match.
They had a bit of a hardware store, a sand and gravel section and seemed to be a place where people could work on their vehicles using the house tools.
A delivery guy's papers weren't right and the young fella was on top of it all.
A big cheery "hasta luego" when I was leaving.

An interesting personal interaction in Panamá! Things are looking up!

The PA on the way to Santiago. It won't feature in any "best places to ride a bike" guides. Motorbikes, maybe.

​

I'd a short day planned, down to Santiago, about 30km down the road. There was a hostel there, I could explore the town.

Then it rained!

Now this is looking promising..... But then the rain came down

​

The rain got heavier so I stopped at an abandoned Fonda (Comedores became Sodas and here are Fondas) for an hour until it lightened. Then I set off again in drizzle. Brutally humid though.
About 5km from Santiago itself the surface changed, my shoulder became intermittent and traffic was replaced by hellhounds craftily disguised as cars, trucks and buses. Buses are the most hellish of hellhounds!
I took to the footpath until it ran out. I took to muddy paths until they ran out. Then, the hellhounds were backing up so I could keep pace but it was very, very unpleasant.

But if I look back the dullness is never far away

​

When I arrived at my turn off to go towards the centre and my hostel something rebelled in me. I didn't want to explore this town. It was loud and unfriendly. Besides, it was already getting late and I didn't want to share a dorm with strangers. And I certainly didn't want to face all this crap again in the morning. Like a toddler I was going no! No! NO! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

I don't have enough photos to fill the ten I can use per post, so here's my old amigo in a favourite place - a German forest, August 2014! His first bike adventure!

​

Yesterday, when I had thought of Santiago, Booking had thrown up a cheap hotel on the far side of town. I checked again. Still cheap, 12km away and on the right road. I went for it.

Grey and dull. Dull and grey. And asshats, asswipes, arslachs and assh*les! (German insults are so much better!)

​

I still had to negotiate my way through though and negotiate is the appropriate verb. On the road. On the path. Stop dead. Walk around obstacles. Feckin' horrible.

The far side of Santiago.

​

On the far edge of town I spotted a bakery, stuck my head in the door and asked if they had coffee. Of course came the answer from the prettiest girl I've seen in Panamá! I nearly danced a jig! I must be old because the jig was inspired by the coffee not the pretty girl!
I parked up and went inside, grabbing a cold water and a couple of slices of cake.
Ms Panamá was very curious. When I told her I was from Ireland and where I'd biked from her eyes lit up like brilliant shining beacons. I'm cool again!
She was all chat because she wanted me to pose in front of the shop a sort of "they even come from Ireland on bikes to here" kind of thing. I'd challenge any red blooded male to say no to this lady! Photophobia? What Photophobia?
She had lived and worked in Oregon and loved it but Trump had made life difficult and now she was home. She really wanted to go back.

Coffee and cake has been a feature of my touring career! Strüdel, custard, coffee in Bayern, August 2014. The further we travel the more things can stay the same!

​

Now I was leaving the town behind and everything had changed. My baby smooth shoulder was gone replaced with rough tarmac. The road was now rippled concrete sheets and the heavy traffic made a terrible racket especially at each join. The rain was back too!
So much for a relaxing, easy day.
It would take a strong soul to ride these roads, enjoy it and want to do it again.

With relief I got myself checked in. There's a bar next door, empty, that served food until 6. I checked it out and passed, hitting a little supermarket instead.

I've been racing to get to Panamá City to arrive on Sunday but today has just confirmed my worst thoughts - I do not want to cycle into Panamá city. I need a plan B.

Bayern, August 2014. A cheap, cheap hotel but what a view!​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 27, 2021, La Mata, Santiago to Penonomé, Santiago, 105 km Total KM 4592
Min meters 41, Max Meters 120
Total Climb 248 Total Descent 189
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 33


Losing the head...... and shoulders


I woke up at five to the sound of rain falling. Not heavy rain, by any means, but enough to slow me down. With no place to make coffee I munched some bread and peanut butter and got organised. I'd earmarked a spot outside to fire up the trangia but when push came to shove I just packed up and hit the road. At least it was dry!

About the only thing (other than language) that points to Panamá being a Latin country is the prevalence of chickens

​

A few kms down the road I came to a little Fonda with quite a few men eating. I ordered a coffee. The food served was all fried! At payment time I proffered a $20 bill only to be asked for something smaller. I had 95 cents (for a $1 coffee). The girl called out to her boss for advice. A man at the end of the counter said he'd buy the coffee! Panamá's warming up!
I thanked him and wandered down but he was no more interested in chatting than I was in eating the deep fried meat on display!

With a bit of coffee in me I set off again.

The rain had stopped, there were crash barriers regularly to stop, even shade but very little to spark enthusiasm

​

The noise was horrendous. Ribbed concrete (for no--one's pleasure!) can make a terrible racket. My shoulder was poor (how things are relative!) and traffic was heavy. I even had a dog chase! A silent one so he was upon me before I knew it. My first reaction was shock, my second to swing my foot at him. That was enough to discourage him.

There were views of mountains away in the distance, but too far to translate to a photo. In fact there are precious few wow moments. I can stop, usually, where I like (shoulder), there are frequent crash barriers and bus stops to sit and savour. It's just there is feck all to savour. Maybe if I liked fumes...... And loud noise.

The road seems to run well away from the mountains.

​

It's been a long time since I've seen such ignorance on the road. Getting through Santiago yesterday I lost count of how many cars and pickups passed me only to turn right across me.
Today it was cars and trucks in the shoulder. One asswipe in particular, parked in the shoulder waited until I was in the lane overtaking him to move off nearly forcing me into the further lane.
Many times approaching an obstacle in the shoulder I'd indicate that I wanted to take the lane. Not once did anyone move over to let me out. Later, in Penonomé, traffic was selfish and bullying.

Lovely bridge but no shoulder. Unpleasant.

​

After my "short and easy" day yesterday I had no idea where I was going to end up today. I had a cheap hotel lined up about 40km down the road, a potential Bomberos stay at 60km, a potential truck stop about 80km and a town, Penonomé, about 100km. All in Gizmo.

At the 45km mark I decided to continue on but thought I'd turn off and check out the town anyway. Agua Dulce was uninspiring, a small sterile plaza in front of the church. The brightest, best kept building was a casino. I didn't doubt my decision to carry on.

Agua Dulce

​

The road and my shoulder deteriorated then. In fact, my shoulder was coming, going or changing all day long. At one stage it was overgrown with weeds and grass, at another, it was a narrow mud path. It wasn't pleasant but it did keep me awake!
Horns and shouts have become a feature again. I know that some of the horns are friendly, but it's impossible to differentiate them from the not so friendly ones. Yesterday someone yelled "Burro" at me - donkey. Try as I might, I can't put a positive spin on that one!

Riding in the rough shoulder I spied big chunks of broken green glass so moved roadwards (still in the shoulder) to avoid it. Just as I approached the glass a bus let out a long blast of the horn. I'd been watching it in the mirror and all was good but reacted instinctively to pull away - right through the glass.
At one stage trying to take a photo between all the traffic I had just zoomed in on a mountain, holding my hand steady and a bus gave a loud blast of the horn, scaring the crap out of me and ruining the shot.
That was enough! I lost it and rampaged up and down behind the barrier of a bridge turning the air a violent blue with my language.

The rivers can be interesting. Some are flowing rapidly and violently, others hardly moving.

​

I was also the conductor of my own misfortune! Twice I crossed the road (no easy task) to visit a store. The first time I remembered just in time that I was on the wrong side of the road but the second time I happily set off in the wrong direction!

The one saving grace of the day, though, was the weather! I had relatively open skies all day which meant vastly less humidity. I felt pretty good cycling along, making progress. In fact, progress was the thing. I want to get off the road - to do that I have to get to the east coast - as fast as possible. I had no problem passing on Agua Dulce, the little village of Nata or the truck stop. There was lots of energy in the legs.

At last! An interesting tree!

​

Penonomé then became the destination. Close to 100km in total but I was feeling good. Unfortunately, the bike wasn't! Accelerating to cross a bridge (those lovely separated lanes? Disappeared today!) my rear started wobbling very suggestively! Suggestive of a puncture.
I limped on hoping for a railing or bus stop but settled on shade.
I had been looking down frequently after the green glass episode but I think it was a case of "Is the tyre getting bigger at the bottom or am I looking at it too much?
I was fully prepared to find broken green glass (and curse more bus drivers) but it was a teeny, tiny wire). At times like this I'm very glad to have my Clickstand to be able to load the bike up.

Then back on the road.

Trying to take a photo without traffic requires patience - something in short supply.

​

It took me a couple of kms to realise that I'd forgotten my Leatherman (tool) at the side of the road! Feckkkkkkkkk!
Nothing for it but to turn around and ride the wrong way on the shoulder. I'm going native!
In the meantime, a Policeman had set up a speed trap under a tree. Rather than stop and ask permission I did the Catholic thing - commit the sin and hope for forgiveness - and zoomed past him!
There's a feature on Gizmo that allows me to save my location. I've started using it more often, like when I stop to fix a puncture so finding the exact spot was easy. Finding the tool not so much. That's because it was in my saddlebag all the time! Dumbass!
I cycled past the bored cop who said nothing and continued on

A hostel with private rooms would do the trick in Penonomé.
About 100 meters from it the road was dug up and there was no way past. A long, twisty detour and I arrived from the other side - closed.
Another cheap hotel down the road, closed.
I doubled back to a modern one on the highway - sold out. As was another.
I wandered into the countryside for another. Closed.
Through the town were two more. One was closed! That made my decision easier, if my wallet lighter.

As I rode today, I figured out something I don't like about Panamá - I don't trust it!
The beautiful road can be deceptive when so many dicks travel along it.
The wide shoulder can be blocked by trees or cars, become overgrown or revert to a muddy single track. At every junction there is sand, mud and gravel to contend with and random rocks along the way.
Stores and food options can be plentiful, like today or almost absent like two days ago. The weather is fickle, has a huge impact and, to me, is totally unpredictable.
Accommodation is either closed or very expensive.
This is the first country in a long time that I have little confidence that if I signalled I needed help it would be forthcoming.
That's worth emphasising. México, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua - no go areas according to many - were places I felt comfortable, that help was available. Panamá, wealthier, less Latin and more American, not so much.

I have the sense that I'm travelling through Panamá in a kind of isolation bubble. I can see everything, Lord knows I can hear everything, but I'm feeling separated, different, an outsider. It's not what I would have expected to feel in a country that is in many respects, so similar to the US and should therefore be somewhat familiar to me.

I miss México! And Honduras!

The Pan American in Panamá. Long, wide, dull, a shoulder most of the time. But dull.

​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

Edited to correct day/date