The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

HobbesOnTour · 2 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, July 28, 2021, Salto de Estanzuela to San Rafael del Norte 51 km Total KM 3117
Min meters 739, Max Meters 1100
Total Climb 933 Total Descent 860
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 28

Meeting my limits

I slept very well (I nearly always do in my tent) and even the rain hammering off the metal roof didn't penetrate my slumber.

Awake with the dawn it was a tricky morning bit of manoeuvring to get stuff out of the tent due to the confined space and remembering which bag was on which side. But a bit of focus and I was soon brewing up a coffee.

Even though I'm not terribly high I still get to feel like I'm playing in the clouds!

The bathroom is a drop toilet in a cornfield. Perhaps that sounds a bit rough (Lord knows such things used to seem nightmarish to me) but in the spirit of looking for the beauty in even the most awkward locations I can testify to the calmness of a morning poop looking out over a waving field of corn.

Coffee made I took a wander back to the waterfall to sit, savour and soak. The green pool of last night was now brown after all the rain. But it was mine, all mine.

Of course, I got to see the morning routine of the gatekeeper's house too. A wood fire burning early, a hunt in the wet corn for eggs.

Yes! It really was that steep! A great way to kick my ass into gear!!

Setting off I had no idea where I was going to go! Last night playing with Osmand I saw a different, back road route to a town I was going to visit. It ran along a big green blob on the map (big green blobs are generally pretty and interesting) but had some serious gradients - 20% and some unclassified. The road itself was something of an unknown and I'd no internet to investigate. It was a figary that involved doubling back through Estelí.
The other option was back onto the PanAmerican. I'd wait until my junction to decide.

Everyone wanted to talk to me this morning from a harmless old man at the gate of my lodgings to a young girl and boy with a beautiful Shepherd pup. It made the up and down back to the main road very pleasant.

Looking down on Estelí

At the junction I surprised myself by turning back towards Estelí and taking the figary! I'd pointed the bike to join the PanAmerican but the feeling that inspired was best described as "Bleh". Sometimes that's how I decide! ^_^

The figary road! I'd no idea what it was going to be like, nor how long it was going to stay like this.

I got through Estelí easy enough despite traffic and was relieved to see that the road was paved - the same interlocking blocks as yesterday, if older. Meeting a fruit seller I bought a large banana for my second breakfast and so began the fun!

Osmand had me well prepped! An even enough road for 10km then a steep jump up. I'd lose all that height and then some before a steep hump then the big, steep climb of the day. Once that was out of the way it was pretty level (for these parts). There'd be a few villages, possibly accommodation options (but none that I could see). I was putting my faith in Nicaraguan back roads (hoping it wouldn't turn to sand and gravel).

Sitting back now, enjoying a coffee I can say it was a very successful if very tough figary.

Not for the first time I felt immersed in a landscape not just passing through it.

If anyone thought I shouldn't be there they kept their sentiments to themselves. It's not as overtly friendly as Honduras, but the friendliness is there.
A small road weaving along a valley was great cycling (when I could) and a fantastic way to feel where I was. Animals all around from chickens, turkeys and pigs on the side of the road, horses and cattle in the fields (and sometimes not), dogs sunning themselves on the road. Yes! On the road! At first I was horrified thinking I was approaching fresh roadkill but after the first two dogs looked at me as if I was a fool when I pulled up to check on them I learned my lesson.
Butterflies! More butterflies - everywhere.
And I don't know why today of all days, but the birds seemed to be chirping and singing to me.

The surface was a tad bumpy but traffic was rare and travelled in packs. For long stretches I had it all to myself

With all the contortions this morning I'd managed to leave my bandana in the tent! Lacking this made me instantly less cool but it also had me crying! Sweat flowed freely into my eyes. Salty sweat! There was a lot of sweat today.

Once I hit the first steep bits of the first climb I was pushing. I just ran out of gears. I surprised myself by jogging at times. I hate jogging! Yet there I was jogging up the sedate climbs between the monster ones.
It was short and I was rewarded with a lovely, 20km long gentle descent. I stopped for a second breakfast peanut butter and banana on a concrete base for a light. Behind and well below me were some houses hidden in the trees and the sounds of daily life was my mealtime music.

It even laid on a cliff for me! Across the road is where I had my lunch. In the valley below houses, daily country life my soundtrack

The "hump" started at about 30km and parts of this were steeper for longer. It was tough. Hot, heavy and tough. But I was in no rush, at least for most of it. I stopped and savoured.
Ever since I set off oh so long ago my bar ends haven't matched, the left one being shallower. Today with all the pushing up such steep inclines I needed to fix that!

Running low on water I pulled in to a little store. An angry dog was angry and angrily barked at me letting me know he was angry. A very, very chatty lady led me into her little, dark store for a cold drink and in the darkness I managed to stand on angry dog not once, not twice but three times! Angry dog doesn't bite and we made friends when I sat outside to rest.

Yes, it's going up, but look at how pretty it all is

Getting near the top and the village of La Concordia the sky which had been threatening on and off all morning started to look particularly annoyed and started drizzling. A bit of an incentive to push on! I turned off the main road and down into the village to the plaza/park. I got a cold drink at a stand and chatted to a few guys. While resting up the sky started to clear and with there being no accommodation in this place I decided to head to the next town that did have options.

A steep descent on tarmac road followed by the monster! Oh dear Lord it was tough! But pleasant! This was showing lots of red in the Osmand profile (never a good thing!) and there was lots of pushing! But the views! A bus broke down behind me - twice! I rested, drank lots and just kept pushing ever upwards. Without a doubt these roads today have been the steepest I have ever done. And that includes Wales!

If the clouds are behaving there is always something interesting to see. This is the village of La Concordia with the yellow church

While resting on a crash barrier a pickup loaded down with bananas (standing more than twice the height of the cab) was inching slowly down the hill. The driver leaned out to make sure I was ok!
Near the top a motorcyclist passed me and made that sign with forefinger and thumb to let me know it was only a teeny tiny distance to the top! At least that's how I interpreted it. If he was suggesting I was less of a man for pushing there was nothing I could do about it! ^_^

The peak when it came was disappointing and I cruised down to take my turn off to the village of San Rafael del Norte. A wicked descent followed by another push told me I was going no further. Of the two "hotels" I knew of one turned out to be very fancy! I passed two others - closed and then the heavens opened! I hotfooted it to the Park and yes! A bandstand! Cover from the rain! After the rain I continued along the street, found a little hotel with a small, cheap room and a very pleasant lady to check me in.

I've written this up sitting on their terrace watching local life parade up and down past me. A rottweiler ran up the road chased by a fine German Shepherd and a few minutes later the Rottweiler chased the Shepherd down. Anyone with an inkling of dog behaviour saw two dogs playing and having great fun.
A car drove by with a guy sitting in the boot leading a horse! Kids have come from both ends of the street to slyly have a look at the Gringo. The boys are either all bravado or too shy to talk, the girls more sociable.

Over my coffee I was pondering why is it here in Nicaragua that I am touring in my more traditional style - not a fixed route, stopping off to prepare food. I just feel very comfy here!

Still the stone walls

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HobbesOnTour · 3 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 29, 2021, San Rafael del Norte to Aguas del Arenal 47 km Total KM 3164
Min meters 989, Max Meters 1576
Total Climb 1027 Total Descent 819
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

A day of two halves; Part I

There are times when being a solo traveller is the best thing in the world. There are times too when the "solo" can feel heavy. With a buddy or a group we can tap into someone else's energy, solo? Not so much. We have to gee ourselves up. For a myraid of reasons I needed a bit of geeing up today.

Well, last night was interesting. A couple of powercuts after dinner made a bit of a mess of my one night of wifi in a while. Then later, a total powercut for the night left me with a dead phone and a fan that didn't work! Rain pounding on a metal roof (there is always a metal roof!) brought the temperature down so falling asleep I was cooking, by 3 am I was cold. Everything came back to life sometime after four scaring the bejaysus out of me and left me sleepless after that.

Such a tree was interesting today, whereas normally it would inspire awe.

I got up to gloomy, threatening skies, got slowly packed, checked the weather forecast (for the first time in ages - it looked that poor!) then decided to have breakfast. Dinner had been great breakfast should too. It wasn't bad but the receptionist who I'd complimented and got on well with tried to stiff me on my breakfast bill by "needing a moment" to get change then disappearing, presumably hoping I'd feck off. She picked the wrong person to try that on. I had tipped at dinner and made a point of complimenting both the chef and the waitress. Ditto breakfast.

I passed a lake. Fried fish restaurants replaced the usual chicken restaurants. The land hereabouts was relatively flat and heavily farmed. Thick, almost black soil had been recently ploughed. I saw a couple of tractors which are a very rare sight in these parts. Most farm work is done by hand. I saw more teams of oxen than tractors, though.

It's funny how a thing like that can set a mood so I set off if not grumpy, certainly not full of the joys of life. I think that when going forward into unknown places there's a comfort in knowing I can return to where I was, but that comfort was now gone.
A ferocious wind, scary skies and a bloody big ascent up to the road didn't help. And the elevation profile ahead of me? Scarier than young fellas hopping out of cars in Guatemala City!

This row of trees which would normally stick an ear to ear grin to my face were "nice" today

In fairness the first kms were Central American flat - up and down. I'd get to Jinotega and then the real climbing would begin!
I surprise myself on these "flat" roads as I power along and I really enjoy the sensation of moving as opposed to labouring slowly upwards.
The wind, however, was causing problems, blowing me left and right. The most sustained wind issues in a long time.
As I was going along a voice in my head was saying "Jinotega. Stop there. Do the climb tomorrow". I just wasn't feeling it.

Another tree that was more meh than wow

I wasn't feeling it in Jinotega either. Busy, loud and lacking something. The park was meh, although easily found. There just was no reason to stay. Nothing spoke to me, I'd just be bored. As I pushed the bike along a street (I often push in towns to soak them up, to get a feel for them) a guy appeared out of nowhere beside me babbling on about my tyres and air. I had the distinct impression he was trying to distract me for some nefarious reason. That settled it.

So I climbed out of town, pulled into a supermarket and after the intervention of a guard had to leave my bike a long way from the door. I was a tad antsy going in. A flying shop to get back out I was stunned at the cash register. As a treat I'd thrown in a small pot of Nutella. The price made my eyes water!
Outside I set about loading my supplies and did something dumb. I put Mazi to one side, then moved the bike for more stable loading then forgot to put him back on!

That'd be the rain coming in!

I set off into a 500 meter climb.
Not in the best of form I was finding it tough going. In fairness, parts were very steep for sustained periods. Decent crash barrier distribution and shade (the sun was out) gave me regular breaks.
About 300 meters up I pulled in for a roadside lunch. That's when I missed my buddy.
There was no "Hobbesian" mental flight back to the last known location. There was no race to fly down the hill. Just a sad acceptance. I cursed myself for my carelessness but the truth is he wasn't Hobbes. I could never conjure up the same excitement when I put him in a photo as came naturally with Hobbes. I've actively included him in more photos since CDMX but the "connection" just wasn't there. It felt more like a chore than a pleasure.
I don't know if it's a sign or not, but yesterday when I had Internet there was a message from my friend who made Hobbes reminding me he was 7 years old!

The view looking down on Jinotega

So, in a grumpier mood I set off again. The views were good but not inspiring. Traffic was light and friendly. But feeling? Nothing. Even the high point was bleh with no view worth talking about. I was seriously doubting my destination now - a place to camp from iOverlander, off the main road and tricky to find. With the way my day was going I was sure the road would be horrible and the rain clouds were back!

Reading back the next day that is not a fair description and a good reminder of how my mood can influence everything.
One thing that struck me on the climb was the "texture" of the landscape. There were layers and layers to it. A completely uneven landscape, different crops side by side, wild tree copses dotted around, contrasting colours and shades within shades all pointed to something new to me - I was just having a problem feeling it.

Texture!

I stopped at a roadside comedor for a bit of lunch at the same time as four Police officers. Basic, but tasty, my main attention was on the armoury of two of the Police - ancient, battered and not functional looking machine guns of two types. No straps so they were placed on the table, then on the floor while they ate. When they left the four climbed on two motorbikes and headed off.

Texture! And feckin' rain!

Then it rained! Not as hard or as heavy as it can be here, but enough to make me wet and cold. I did stop when it lightened and was amused by steam rising off the road. Now there's a bit of atmosphere! If the road to the camping place was tricky I'd have a long, hard slog to the next town.

After Jinotega the climb had me in the trees. Normally the sensation of being swallowed up by nature is exciting and an incentive to climb up to the next bend...

I'm going to end this here.
Part II will follow.

*I write this travelogue for me. I have an audience of 1 when I sit down and try to put form to my ideas. I love the Chat thread because it feels like a community and it can fend of the loneliness that sometimes descends, but this Travelogue is mine.
The fact that I have an audience only has two influences;
I am more likely to moderate my language ^_^

It instils discipline.
Today, I was very glad of an audience since it was probably the only reason I took so many photographs. Looking back on the photos I realise how much my mood had blotted out the beauty, the interesting and the "bigger picture". The reality was there but was being perceived through gloomy filters.

Without the Travelogue and the pictures my perceptions would have been too gloomy.

Thank you.

More texture. The thought did cross my mind at just how tough it must be to work these fields. Planting, tending and especially harvesting must be slow, backbreaking work.

Chat? Yes Please!

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HobbesOnTour · 3 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 29, 2021, San Rafael del Norte to Aguas del Arenal 47 km Total KM 3164
Min meters 989, Max Meters 1576
Total Climb 1027 Total Descent 819
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

A day of two halves; Part II

Sometimes a day can flip simply by taking a different road. Today was one of those days!

Hmmmmm. What's down here?

I arrived at the turn off and yes, it was rocky, but it was doable. Then the sun came out! Then I was riding on magical, Nicaraguan backroads!

Ooooh! An interesting tree!

It was only about 5km but those kms spanned a huge mental distance. My spirits lifted, then soared. I still didn't know if I'd find the place but I no longer cared! This wasn't a "Wow! I'm in Nicaragua" moment, it was a "Wow! This is an amazing part of the world" moment!

The sun is coming out, the sky is turning blue!

I met young fellas walking, on bicycles, on motorbikes, all "armed" with machetes, all friendly, if a bit bemused by the eejit on a loaded bike.
I saw views and heard birds and other animals that welcomed me to another world. A beautiful world. A calm world.

I've tried to caption this. And failed. The sun, the shade, the "adventurous road", the exotic trees, the blue after so much grey.....

I stopped and savoured. I felt. I decided to study photographic equipment with a view to designing the best camera in the world - what I saw in my phone was a poor, poor relation to what was all around me!

Take a moment and consider that this photo is a Lidl/Aldi knockoff of what I actually saw (no offence to the Germans!)

Back on the main road a weak, insipid, whingey, moany cyclist was dropped and here an explorer, curious, brave and inspired was bouncing along. What a change!

Adventure!

Of course, I got lost but two helpful women put me back on the right path. They were taking a shortcut through a field and when I rounded a bend they were waiting for me to make sure I took the correct turn! I could have hugged them for such a simple, generous act.

I found the place, was made most welcome and pitched my tent on grass for the first time in ages. Even the rain after couldn't dampen my mood. I am in a special place!

Home has its own pond!

Mi casa

*I hope you can now understand why I split the day into two posts😊

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HobbesOnTour · 4 Aug 2021

Some more odds & ends…..

Guatemala & Honduras had several signs like these promoting the funding and expertise received from the EU, often with an input from a specific country.
Projects appear to be sustainable (for example developing tourism in remote places) and countries share their expertise (Austria for promoting mountain lake tourism).
The Covid sign was outside the Spanish Embassy in Tegus, Honduras.
I haven't seen any such signs in Nicaragua.

This giraffe is from a small hotel and is made completely from tyres! There is a very strong attitude of repair and reuse here and I can find it a bit dispiriting at times to see people's homes held together with not much more than rope, and bits of rope at that. It does the heart good to see something created from waste for purely artistic and aesthetic reasons.

Since México I have seen many trucks and trailers with US branding - not just big names but Acme Fruit Suppliers from SmallTownMidAmerica. It's clear that there is a market for used (and very used) US trucks and trailers. Clearly they are shipped without even receiving a coat of paint to cover the original branding.
While Gatorade is available here, I find it hard to believe that this trailer is actually carrying Gatorade.

No doubt you have noticed many photos suffering "electric cable in the frame" utis. Urban areas the electrical (and other) cabling can be scary!

Every town has its own irrigation systems for all the rainwater. Since México it's advisable to get used to what they are before progressing too fast. Such is the volume of water they need to cope with that grates have to be big!

Guatemalan and Honduran shoulders tended to be like this - a different height to the road but a regular "weave" that required dropping down or scaling on a regular basis. Going down was no problem, going back up could be tricky. High enough to cause problems if approached too gently, it was best accomplished by turning almost perpendicular to the road. Timing was key to not giving drivers a heart attack!

After getting eaten alive in the tent in Honduras! And that was the good leg - the other was worse!

There can be terrifying drains on the side of roads, tour ending to a complacent cyclist.

Bridges can be tricky! Judging by the lack of railing I'm not the only one to think so! In fairness to Nicaragua, their bridges have been excellent!

Motorbikes are a major form of transport in these parts. The loads they carry can be terrifying, at times.
The school run isn't in an SUV, it's Mamá or Papá with one, two or three kids on a motorbike!
Water, gas cylinders and milk churns are carried on motorbikes.
I've seen ingenious trailers attached.
I would have thought machines like this would be more popular but people stick with the tried and tested. ATVs are very rare. In the mountains, the motorbike is king.

Chat? Yes Please!
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HobbesOnTour · 5 Aug 2021

Friday July 30

It wasn't my plan but I stayed an extra day!

These trees are quite common around here. There's something very familiar yet different about them that I really like

I know now what they mean when places are described as "teeming with life"!

I had a lazy start to my day enjoying coffee grown, roasted and ground in the place I was staying. Delicious!

My morning coffee vantage point.

They have a couple of Shepherds, the youngest full of life and teeth! Playing with a playful dog - there's not much better!

Flashes of Nature's vibrancy everywhere

Then I took a wander along some of the walking routes in the place. I can now say that I have been in the jungle!

It was fabulous, interesting, varied, mushy, smushy, dirty, filled with smells and sounds and silence.

I don't think I walked for much more than about 5km and sat for an hour on an old tree trunk just watching all the animal activity around me - small animal activity. I've never seen so many different types of jumping insects. I was exhausted!

Imagine if we could train ants! I've been watching them since México and they are fantastically industrious creatures! They never seem to rest, carry huge loads incredible distances.

Look up! Always look up!

The afternoon was spent reading and drinking coffee. And relaxing. There was an aura to the place that encourages calm.

Young coffee!

A simple, delicious dinner and I was in bed for 8:30. The simple life.

*If all that sounds boring that's my fault. It was a glorious location with friendly hosts. I'd be afraid to return in case a new visit would damage the perception I have of the place. Beautiful without being contrived, naturally calm and some great home produced coffee!

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HobbesOnTour · 6 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Saturday, July 31, 2021, Aguas del Arenal to San Ramon 32 km Total KM 3196
Min meters 649, Max Meters 1459
Total Climb 551 Total Descent 1177
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24

They call it rainy season for a reason!

I generally try not to pick up strangers on my travels but last night I had company!
A large toad made itself at home under the fly of my tent. In the spirit of being a visitor in strange lands I did not try to move them on (nor did I try anything to see if there really was a princess in there!). Their croaking was my lullaby.

One reason for not being in too much of a rush was that I was facing into this steep bugger!

I slept very well and was awake with the sun - and drizzle.
I got up and made coffee and realised I didn't want to leave. I also realised that if I stayed I might never leave! Everywhere I looked there was beauty, not an obviously planned, strategic beauty, more a random beauty.
Breakfast was a couple of bananas and the last of my peanut butter.
Because of rain I kept postponing breaking down the tent but in the end had no choice but to go for it.

I packed up, donned rain gear and set off climbing the rough roads that brought me to this paradise. Tough, yes, but very pretty at times, even in the wet. I stopped and savoured often.

A bit dull and drab perhaps but the climbing had me warm and there's always something mysterious in the mist

Back on the main road I was hit with a wet wall and a short, steep climb. My view was of grey mist. Everywhere.

I set off down the other side and had ocassional glimpses of valleys where it wasn't raining. Where I was? It was pouring!

At the main road the mist stopped being so inspiring!

I did take a turn down a rough road to an area that had lakes. With all the rain a coffee wouldn't go amiss. After a few kms downhill I came to a barrier restricting access. A guard, sitting in a hut playing with his phone looked up, saw me then returned to his phone. Fuming, I turned around and used the frustration to power back up to the main road.

A mini-figary. Ultimately disappointing but a lovely ride

The first big town was Matagalpa and as I descended towards it the rain stopped and the sun came out. I passed a long line of tin shacks on the side of the road. My destination was a good 60km further on and I could have avoided the town but I pulled off to investigte. In any case I needed some cash.

I want to be over there!

I located the main Plaza/Park easily enough after passing through some heavy traffic. It was a noisy town! Lots and lots of horns for a start (not all directed at me!) and speakers blasting out music and ads.
I located a bank and joined a queue for the atm.

Showing potential.......

By now it was raining again and my spirits were dropping fast. I spied a café, grabbed a coffee and jumped on their Wifi. One of the first emails I opened told me that México is closing its land borders. That's not a good sign. I also was able to establish that there are no direct flights from Nicaragua to the US and that there is only one place in the country to get a Covid test! And it's five times more expensive than other countries! Covid is not a big thing in Nicaragua. 95 people have died. At least according to the Government!
It didn't help my mood.

After a tough (in every sense) climb out of Matagalpa things started to improve

A part of me wanted to stay and do a bit more research, but the larger part of me wanted to get out of town.
There was an edge I didn't like. I was badgered by several people for money, one guy being quite intimidating by alternating demanding money and looking significantly at the bike.

Out of town I went. Up a long, steep hill in the rain on a broken road with broken speedbumps and heavy traffic.
If I haven't mentioned it, as well as the proximity of traffic, there is the sheer volume of the racket they make, especially on the hills and then there are the fumes that are suffocating. Because of traffic lights everything came together so I took to cycling in the gaps.

I don't know why it is, but the heavy traffic in towns and on their edges seems to dissolve once the town is left behind and so it was with Matagalpa. The sun even came out!

I was away from the PanAmerican and soon to turn off onto another back road. Mother Nature had another shower for me first, though but then bathed me in sun when I turned off. Then the Touring Gods threw in a gentle, but steady descent.
Now this was cycling! There was little traffic, although the buses were a tad aggressive. Just when I thought everything was looking up I got hit with another shower. Only a few minutes but soaked through - again!

Between the showers? Feckin' Fabulous!

Spying a roadside restaurant I pulled in for a bit of lunch and delayed my departure for more rain. It was getting ridiculous now!
Bright sun, then rain. Rinse and repeat.
I arrived into the little village of San Ramon and thought enough already as the rain started again.

If it wasn't dripping water it was dripping character and atmosphere

I wanted to camp another 40km down the road but the constant cycle of soaking then drying is not good fun! I found a hotel but it was closed and went off looking for another - up an almost vertical road. I got a decent rate and good wifi, had a shower and went to go explore the village - more rain! And so it was for the rest of the day. Rain, rain and more rain.

There are some wonderful trees in this part of the world

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HobbesOnTour · 7 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Sunday, August 01, 2021, San Ramon to Muy Muy 54 km Total KM 3250
Min meters 262, Max Meters 644
Total Climb 633 Total Descent 801
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 32

Not what I expected

Normally I can blank out external noise but last night the music emanating from somewhere down the hill was so loud and so bad I had trouble falling asleep. To add injury to aural stress I woke up sometime about two and slept very fitfully after that.

Up at 6 I brewed coffee and packed up.
My rear tyre seemed a tad soft last night so I had pumped it up. Checking this morning I couldn't be sure if it had deflated any so set off slowly down a ridiculously steep road back to the town.

Heading generally South the sun can really mess with taking photos.

There was no comparison to yesterday! Yes, there were lots of clouds, but these were white and well broken up with beautiful patches of blue. In actual fact, it was more like an animation since the wind was strong and treating the sky as its playzone.

My route today would head up then tend downwards with the inevitable climbs thrown in for good measure. This would bring me to my lowest altitude since near the Mexican coast. The road seemed very quiet and most of the traffic, at least the truck traffic, was coming against me.
The wind was very forceful at times, though.

I got to see that peak from all angles

The landscape here is a pretty without being spectacular, but always interesting. The land has texture - hills within hills, curves within curves. Colours, especially the greens seem to bleed, merge and form new shades. Look closely and I'll invariably see a rogue colour, a red or a blue or a purple from some other plant. Throw in the wind teasing the sun with clouds the landscape can seem vibrantly alive and active.
It's mountain land, though, and not very productive. Cattle can be spread across a large area but pass close to them and the ribs are prominent.

Taking a breather at the top of a hill

The real value for the wandering cyclist is in the big picture. A generally good road (although with random parts that are atrocious) sweeps and curves up, down and around the lumpy landscape, bringing me right through it, showing different perspectives of the same tree or hill, all the time with the sound of birds. Down low the chirping and singing is more familiar to me.

Not spectacular, but certainly interesting

I'm well off the PanAmerican and won't be back on it for a few days yet. This is off the beaten track for bike tourists (as far as I know) and my bike and myself seem to be less familiar sights.
There's no hostility but little in the way of displays of friendliness. This being a Sunday lots of people are on the road walking and my greetings garner not a response. Even labouring up a hill - normally good for a sympathetic smile or a joke - inspires nothing. Kids, unusually, are quiet too.

Quiet, interesting, flat. Pretty good cycling!

I pulled in for breakfast at a simple roadside comedor to a chilly welcome. A couple of thick corn tortillas, cheese and sour cream. No napkins, no cutlery! Messy!
I had a coffee too and was charged what I believe was the "Gringo" price. A group of five having had the same as me (it was all that was on offer) were charged 30 Cordobas a head. Mine was 50.

That peak again!

Gently descending I noticed two things - a rising temperature and a mushy rear end. Stopping to pump up the latter resulted in increasing the former!
Truth be told, this was one of the reasons for a shortish day yesterday - I was apprehensive of the heat.
Perhaps it's not as bad as I think, just a combination of a poor night's sleep and the heat. Hopefully tomorrow will clarify!

My destination today is another figary and the main reason for taking this road. It's outside a small village (Muy Muy) and is another coffee/banana farm that has cabins and camping. Apparently, there are monkeys in the area too!
Of course, to get to it, I have to get up (lots of up!) a crappy road.

Coming to the edge of the town of Muy Muy I pulled into a comedor for lunch. Afterwards my rear tyre was flat as the proverbial pancake. I'd pumped it up three or four times on the roadside so took advantage for a proper repair. A sliver of wire was the cause. I've no glue! It appears the heat killed it!

I know it rains a lot but in this heat the greens really amaze me.

I turned off the main road for a 5km trip down a side road to my destination. That was the plan! It was up! And up! Involved fording a river and ever decreasing road quality.
There were some fabulous trees and higher up some good views but precious few places to park a loaded bike - lots of barbed wire was in use.

It was a soggy, exhausted lump of jelly that finally landed up at a farm that offered showers, electricity, kitchen, wifi and places to camp. Sounds like bliss, no?

Well, it would be but that wasn't the reality.
Not exactly a warm welcome, confusion, not a hint of any facilities (I think they were housed in a separate building which was locked) and nowhere to pitch a tent that was even and not overgrown. I'd be soaked and probably eaten alive. I was low on fuel so was depending on the kitchen. After having a good look around with a falling sense of satisfaction I finally asked for my money back.
That was another thing - it was as expensive as my hotel last night!

I set off back down the mountain! The views did their best to cheer me up but I was still a bit disappointed. Truth be told this place is what had pulled me away from the PanAmerican - there was a chance to see monkeys!

I had to re-ford the river - it was higher now, and faster and as if to show why the heavens opened as I was crossing it. A little later I met a drunken Cowboy who I couldn't understand but seemed to be asking for money for beer.

I have to say, however, that my camping diversion was a very pretty diversion. There are some wonderful trees in this part of the world. Some big, ancient mighty ones, others smaller and younger. A lot of trees seem to be homes to other plants.

Back at the edge of town I headed for the Park to restore my sense of calm. It worked! Simple, colourful and quiet! I'd passed a couple of accommodation options (although one was closed) and discovered another by the park and away from the chaos of the road. Closed too!

I set off back the way I'd come as I remembered passing an ok looking place on my way in. Cheaper than the campground I took a room and ate in a buffet place next door.

All in all, it was very far removed from my hopes for the night.

The Park in Muy Muy, balm for a frustrated soul

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

HobbesOnTour · 7 Aug 2021

A sneaky extra post dedicated to yesterday's excursion up to the campground!

Heading off the main road

Lots of wonderful trees

Fording a river! That guy was cleaning his motorbike. When I asked him how deep it was he walked through showing me the best route! On the way back it was higher and faster.

A Tolkien Tree!

Other plants grow on the trees here, often adding a whole new colour, or colours the palette

Getting higher!

And higher!

Another Tolkien Tree

The best part of the "Campground"

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

HobbesOnTour · 8 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Monday, August 02, 2021, Muy Muy to Empalme de Boaco 65 km Total KM 3315
Min meters 228, Max Meters 440
Total Climb 784 Total Descent 890
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 30

A good day for cycling, a bad day for photos

I'm not made for hot weather! My night's sleep left me drained in the morning. I've no idea if I dreamed but I felt like I'd been active all night. And it was late!
Last night I'd decided to pack up, head for the park and brew up my coffee there. The only option here was on the side of the road. Now with the time that wasn't looking likely.

I got up, packed and had breakfast in the buffet place next door - the same options as for dinner last night!
Being approached by a drunk man at 8am is not my ideal way to start the day. He wanted money but continued to touch me and step close to me despite my, at first, requests then warnings to stay away.
I've been approached by people wanting money since México but here I'm finding it pushy, intimidating and pretty much always for booze.

Cloudy mornings can be tricky. The lack of direct sunlight means I don't burn, but the cloud cover seems to trap and increase the humidity. Combine that with a climb and the result is sweat!

A big hill out of town had me huffing and puffing but I was soon into a pretty good cycling territory. Most other days I'd be beaming but I was finding it hard to get in my groove today.
The road, though, played its part! Rolling hills, steep, for sure, but close enough together to sweep down and rise up the other side without slowing to a crawl. Usually. I learned early on not to lose momentum or I'd suffer - so, for once, I concentrated on cycling through the country and not on recording it.

Now the sun is out!

There were long straights, up and down, sharp curves and always rich, green canvases to enjoy. The road was excellent except for when it wasn't but I could reasonably predict those sections and the ones I couldn't just added to the fun.
Traffic was light which added to the pleasure and I passed through many small settlements (too small even for villages). Sullen wouldn't be the right word, maybe disinterested is the best description. Eye contact was actively avoided, greetings ignored. For the first time ever on my travels people physically shied away from me and adjusted or put on face masks!

A road for sweeping along.....

I passed a few cattle ranches with buildings in a style and function familiar to me but smaller. I also passed several small herds of cattle grazing on the ample verge in each case a red flag to warn traffic and a man watching over them. That was interesting in itself. Normally when I've seen this before (with only a few cattle or sheep or goats) it's women and or children doing the tending. Maybe an old man. Here it was fit, young men.

Boaco was my first possible place to stay and at about 8km from there at a turnoff I pulled in for some lunch. A very pleasant lady served me rice and fried pork just as the heavens opened. I had a coffee to pass the time until it stopped. Coffee here is served black and very sweet. So sweet I was developing a headache.
It had drizzled on and off a couple of times, light enough not to bother me. This was different!

Rolling, Rolling, Rolling......

Going again everything was fresh and clean and the temperature was pleasant for about five minutes - then the cloying humidity started to take over. I turned off for the centre, or at least the park, and weaved my way through the less salubrious parts of town, passing the one hotel that I knew of. It is a hilly town. Very hilly! With about 200 meters to go to the park I had seen enough! The climb was almost vertical and I had had enough of the noise and the traffic.

When it rains it really, really rains!

It's a nice town and another day I'd be thrilled to go and explore but today I wasn't feeling it and besides the only hotel was a long way back. My immediate future has been swirling around in my head the past few days and I want to get on the internet and start to put some form to my thoughts.
I turned to get back on the main road. There I saw a welcome sign declaring that Boaco was the city of two levels! Basement and Penthouse if you ask me.

This is where things got interesting because I had minimal info on accommodation options further down the road. iOverlander had a hotel further down the road, Google another even further away. There's no telling if they still exist!
(There were serious disturbances in Nicaragua in 2018. Foreign tourists fled for the borders. The tourism industry has not recovered and while Nicaragua might be effectively ignoring the Pandemic tourists are not. A lot of places are closed. iOverlander, too, is lacking in up to date information. Each listing shows the last time someone was present).

Rivers are getting bigger and are always brown due to all the rain

A bit of a climb after the town was bliss - almost no traffic and just birds for company. Threatening skies kept me rolling along. I experienced the texture I've been noticing on the hills for myself! Descending a decent hill there was a descent on the descent! The bike dropped away from me - or so it felt. Like in an airplane that suddenly drops my stomach flew up! A bit of a shock but fun! On km64 I came to a crossroads and a hotel.
Steve Earle sings of a speedtrap town and this was one! It's not much more than a crossroads and it has a speed trap - a guy in the bushes with a radar gun and opposite a very pretty female Police officer so bored she's standing with the muzzle of her machine gun in the dirt!
I enquired about rate & internet and booked in. Better the divil I know......

Very pleasant cycling - so long as I didn't stop!

I had a cold shower and went out to explore the crossroads. I tried the only shop that didn't sell food for alcohol for my stove but Señor Grumpy didn't want to listen. I need petrol he told me.
I did buy some eggs, tortillas and a banana for breakfast though. This morning was bleh and the rest of the day followed suit. Not tomorrow!

After the rain..... A little bit of bliss. Cool, fresh and little traffic

I wasn't that hungry but headed for the hotel restaurant because that's where the wifi is. I ordered chicken (it was all they had) and asked for the Wifi password. The fecker looks at me and says "No internet". It was the grin that did it.
I got very angry, very quickly. This is the same guy who told me yes when I was checking in and who told me at my room it was too far away to work. The restaurant was better. Normally, I don't give two hoots for WiFi but right now there's a lot of balls in the air.
I cancelled dinner and went off to calm down.
I ate a chicken dinner elsewhere (while a chicken and some chicks pecked around my feet) and tried the local Internet cafe. No access for my phone and I'm reluctant to open up personal accounts on some random pc.

It may not be spectacular but it can be very pleasant country to cycle through

I'm not too far from Costa Rica as the crow flies and I need to arrange Covid insurance for well before I enter. That requires entry and exit dates. Right now Internet access is pretty important!

A walk and a chat with myself calmed me down. Tomorrow, I'm taking another figary, more backroads and along a lake to the town of Granada. It's a popular tourist town but I should be able to find a place with decent access and get myself organised.
I have the makings for a decent breakfast so hopefully that'll set the tone for the day! A long day, most likely a hot day but there's water! It's been a while since I cycled along water!

On my way to the hotel with no wifi!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

HobbesOnTour · 9 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, August 03, 2021, Empalme de Boaco to Granada 88 km Total KM 3403
Min meters 29, Max Meters 346
Total Climb 349 Total Descent 425
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 32

I'm back in Holland!

Staying where I did last night worked out well, not because of the wonderful accommodation but because I changed my route!
Frustrated, and with an urge to accomplish things I took out Osmand and had a look.
I was intending to head towards the Capital, Managua then turn off to Granada on the shores of a big lake. I was feeling very grumpy and that route wasn't suiting me. I could expect more traffic and I wasn't in the mood. Osmand offered a different solution that meant more backroads and actually cycling along the lake. I decided to sleep on it.

Early morning, Nicaragua. Not a bad place to be!

Up at 4 (it was going to be a long day, whatever way I went), I made coffee, boiled eggs and generally did things to put me in the right frame of mind.

At 5am the local priest started saying Mass - I know this because it was amplified! Ah, the poor man sounded depressed.

At 6am (I waited for sufficient light) I set off - in the wrong direction to where I thought I was going yesterday. Feck it, another figary!

There's always a splash of colour!

A bit of a climb then I'd be losing all my meters. A climb first thing in the morning is a good way to kick start the day! Once that was out of the way I was loving it!
Still cool.....ish I was powering along. I can't describe how good it feels to be actually cycling as opposed to labouring ever upwards. The countryside was interesting, lots and lots of subtle variety, rich, rich greens and the light working magic on lush hills and craggy rocks. Traffic was minimal and I met lots of folk on the roads - farmers driving cattle for milking, kids walking to school. Not for the first time I felt a part of a place as opposed to a transiting observer. The further I travelled the more people were likely to respond positively to my greetings. But it's relative - yesterday no-one did, today, maybe one or two out of ten.

It really is quite pretty!

I stopped in the little town of El Papayal to get some fresh, cold water and eat a little second breakfast. From here I was heading into the unknown!
I took the turn onto hardpacked earth through a residential area then after a km or two the road became concrete - absolutely perfect!

Not a bad road, at all!

I was flying now, cruising in the high 20s kmh, into the 30s if I put a bit of effort into it. The road was now effectively flat and even though there was a headwind it was keeping me cool.
At one stage I even questioned my apprehension about riding in these conditions (low, hot and humid) but had to remind myself it was only 8:30 in the morning!

I even had crash barriers to pull up to! There was a lack of shade though. Again, I can't describe just how much I was enjoying just pedaling, making progress and making ground! This was flat land, very flat and a large rice growing area. It was so flat, so green and so well irrigated that I could have been back in NL - complete with headwind!
Traffic? What traffic? There was hardly any. A lot of bikes, though. A lot more than I've seen in the mountains.

Where are the mountains??!!

The only glitch in my figary was in the town of Malacatoya when a new road wasn't in Osmand and it tried to send me through a river. I pulled into a shop, guzzled some cold water and realised what was going on. I rested awhile, then set off again, around a big bend, a new bridge and Gizmo was happy again.

Even in the flatlands there are interesting trees

I crossed a big bridge and after that I should have had the lake to my left. It was but I couldn't see it!
I passed through an extended residential area stretched along both sides of the road.
It seemed that the further I got away from town the sturdier the structures became, incorporating blocks but the first ones were corrugated metal or black plastic pegged onto a wooden frame, or combinations thereof. Some were small, very small, others larger and none beyond one level for obious reasons.
None had floors, other than hardpacked clay, "rooms" were divided by curtains of cloth or plastic.
Some had a little corral for a few cattle or maybe goats. Chickens were plentiful.
I've seen some interesting buildings on my travels but this was the most concentrated stretch I've come across.
Yet, there was lots of colour. The "curtains" mentioned above were usually vibrant and lots of places had colourful plants and flowers growing in such a way that they looked "wild" but couldn't possibly have managed to set up home on their own.
As I went along blocks were introduced - sometimes not in the way intended. More than one place seemed to have received a delivery of blocks and rather than build with them used the delivery as a wall to build around. Plots seemed to get bigger too so that a building had space around it. It may just be hard clay but these looked to have been swept every day and looked very neat.

I even crossed a wide, Dutchlike river on a bridge that had separated lanes for bikes & pedestrians

The residences finally gave way to vegetation, dense bushes and trees blocked out the view, then a long line of "Quintas" or Country Houses. Each plot seemed to be the same size, although they were very individual. Some had high walls and gates, others were more open (but secure). Some were very fancy, others were anything but. Basically, a building, a beach of sorts and a garden or lawn. One, in particular caught my eye - a very elaborate (and new) gate and railings at the front, with "La Quinta de mis Sueños" (The Country House of my dreams) arching over the gate. Behind it? Nothing but a well tended wildness. Trees and plants that didn't look like they had been planted in any order but were well looked after. No sign of a building! Someone has high hopes - it spoke to me.
I'm assuming that a lot of these are commercial operations - possibly for rent, or for groups at weekends although I'm sure some were private dwellings, most likely weekend places. Often, directly opposite were the shacks and hodge podges of buildings of the locals.

I still wasn't seeing much of the lake despite it being no more than 50 meters from me! When the Quintas faded away there were more trees, the odd farmhouse then the trees slowly started to thin out.

At last!

My first proper view of the lake was a little underwhelming. Small, muddy waves washing up on a muddy shore. Then again, by that stage I was begining to overheat. The road was straight, there was little shade and the crash barriers had disappeared. The wind picked up too making me work harder but cooling me in compensation.

I headed for the park for an unsatisfying lunch, being made to feel like I was nothing but a walking $ sign.

Tolkien tree!

Then it was off to find a place to stay. I had no idea but iOverlander had a hotel that received funding from Spain and NL and was run by women to give work and opportunities to poor women. A place to stay and a good cause! Unfortunately closed. The next was a Mexican hostel, closed too. Next was a hotel but with impossible steps. Finally I found another hostel. I did get to see quite a bit of the town though!

I was very pleased with myself! I clocked up a decent distance, thoroughly enjoyed it and didn't totally melt in the heat. Some of my daily distances have been on the low side lately. Mind you, I'm not exactly in a hurry! That changes in Granada. I have a decent internet connection so it's time to get busy!

The Church at the Park in Granada

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

HobbesOnTour · 15 Aug 2021

Aug 4
Granada

I am a feckin' terrible tourist!

After covering a lot of Granada on the bike yesterday today was nothing to do with exploring this pretty and historical city. Granada is a very pretty town! Colonial architecture abounds but I'm really not in much of position to talk about it. Granada was all about getting organised for a side trip. It was all about the Internet and rules and gambles.

A street in Granada!

It all started with a chance conversation in the Somoto Canyon with the American lady I was doing the tour with. She advised me to hop up to the US for the Vaccine.
"But I'm not American".
That wasn't a problem according to her. She knew of Canadians doing it (from Costa Rica).
That planted a seed in my mind.....

Some research indicated that it was (in theory) possible. There were, however, a lot of buts.......

Non essential travel to the US is forbidden (a vaccine is not considered essential).

My visa status was in doubt since I was never officially stamped out in Del Rio, Texas. I'd sent a letter from Mazatlán to the organisation responsible with proof that I was in México but these things are never confirmed..... Until the next time at immigration.

Nicaragua has no direct flights to the US.

Most Europeans are not allowed enter the US. I'll need proof I haven't been in Europe since September 2019. Any idea how difficult that is to do without a home? I have photos, a blog (anonymous! :laugh:

) and some proof of reservations (Booking/AirBnB) but nothing conclusive!

On the positive side, Central America and especially México had "vaccination vacations" to the US. Expensive, certainly, but organised through travel agents they offered options up to three weeks with flights, a hotel and vaccines.
Also many US States had removed all stumbling blocks to getting a vaccine - a tacit acceptance of the volume of people living without papers?

Then there were the reasons for:
Panama will require quarantine without a vaccine.
Europe is a no go without a vaccine. Or at least very expensive without a vaccine.
And things can change. Quickly. In fact, the Australian "Smart traveller" notifications had been increasing in frequency and seriousness again.
(The UK was putting México on the no travel list, stranding UK travellers or commiting them to thousands in costs to quarantine.)
And the obvious one - I might catch Covid and currently have no insurance cover for that).
There is no hope of me getting a vaccine in these parts for a long, long time.

I decided to proceed.

The Park/Plaza

But depart from where and go to where?

At first, I thought Panama. This would be the cheaper option. But looking ahead, that would be two or more weeks away, it would mean rushing to get there and I could be held up in quarantine.
Costa Rica was the quicker option.

I concentrated on San Jose, the Capital, checking flights and looking for places to store my gear.
Not many reviewed folk on Wamshowers but at least one replied, in the negative, unfortunately.
Storage spaces didn't respond to emails.
I parked that and went looking at destinations for a three week trip. Enough time to get a double shot vaccine.

Miami was the obvious one as that's where a lot of the Latinos were going. New York City was an option too. Neither sat well with me. Too big, too busy, too expensive. A vaccine yes, but three weeks to drive myself demented.
I looked at a map and asked myself where I'd want to go.....
Texas my mind answered back.
It's always been Texas! ^_^

I checked flights. Not too bad. They had vaccines for undocumented.
I checked a few other places New Orleans, (missed on the bike), San Diego and .... nowhere else. There's nowhere else I
really want to visit. I returned to Austin. That was it.

Then I actually read the content (as opposed to the headings) of the emails from Smart Traveller and started reading about Covid in the US. There was a blood chilling familiarity to what I read - very similar to pre-lockdown last year. I decided there was a risk of getting "trapped" in the US if I went for too long.

Johnson & Johnson it was! One jab, in and out in days.

Because speed was now the issue I changed my focus to Costa Rica's second airport in Liberia, closer to me than San Jose.

To enter Costa Rica I needed a specific Covid insurance policy too. And a place to store the bike. I contacted an AirBnB and a hostel.

To enter the US I needed a (negative) Covid test (but not one for Costa Rica). That had to be reserved too.

Then I took a deep breath and started to book everything.

It takes a while when doing everything on a phone. When I was done I was exhausted. It had taken most of the day, cost a fortune and committed me to a short deadline to get to Liberia. I'm not a fan of deadlines on the bike! But if everything worked out (a big if!) I'd have a vaccine, options would remain open to me and I'd have a chance, at least, of continuing. Worst case scenario, returning to Europe wouldn't be quite so difficult as it currently is.

The collateral damage in all this is Nicaragua. From now on I'm in the touristy area of Nicaragua and I'm going to be flying through it. I've been enjoying myself here, it feels unfair to rush out.
The road south passes Lake Nicaragua with an island containing not one but two volcanoes. A side trip to the island is now dropped.
And the general figarytaking that I have been doing is not going to work

Tomorrow, Thursday, is for going as far as I can. Friday is a long day to Liberia (airport). Saturday is for getting the Covid test, checking out the airport and storing the gear. Sunday morning I leave Costa Rica again.

It's a race for the border. Again.

This fine church appears to be boarded up

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

HobbesOnTour · 17 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Thursday, August 05, 2021, Granada to Rivas 70 km Total KM 3473
Min meters 41, Max Meters 280
Total Climb 309 Total Descent 224
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 34

Racing for the Border!

There's a real problem with the temperature these days - sweat! Combine that with trying to use the phone - disaster!
I like to pull it out to take notes - buzzwords to remind me of things. The last few days they have been gobbldeygook!
Sometimes taking a photo is a real PITA with a sweaty finger combined with a phone in a wet pocket. My old phone had a wallet type case that at least kept the screen dry. I can't find similar for this one.

It really was pleasant cycling. Decent road, (surprisingly) light traffic and lots of trees.

So, I had a terrible night's sleep. My head was everywhere. The next few days are critical and I was feeling it. It was near midnight and I was still awake, then woke up at 2:30. Dozed then, on and off until 6 and got up more tired than at 2:30.

Getting out of town was straightforward and I was soon facing into the only climb of the day. The heat, the humidity and the climb really took it out of me. I was really struggling. At least until the climb was over. Then? Then it was cycling bliss!
A headwind to keep me cool, a relatively quiet road, a gentle descent and lovely scenery. Again, I was getting a real kick out of "normal" cycling.

Trees everywhere. To be fair, you really have to travel the road to properly appreciate them

The scenery, again, wasn't super special but it was interesting and moody! There were some fabulous trees along the road. Tolkien trees. Full of mystery. Trees for the imagination.
With a relatively quiet road I had lots of time to remind myself where I was and how lucky I am. It was the kind of road to make me forget deadlines, so I did!

At one stage, with no traffic anywhere I thought I had the road to myself but I was mistaken. About a dozen dragonfly type creatures in shades of metallic blue and green appeared in front of me, hovering like giant insect attack helicopters and a few yellow butterflies flew between them. My own personal airshow!

Then, every now and then there's something that stops me dead!

It was the kind of road that when two guys passed me on a motorbike with a docile pig between the pair it didn't seem odd at all.

After about 20km I joined a bigger road and was expecting more traffic, but no, it was quite light. A good thing too as the road is quite narrow with no shoulder worth mentioning. I did pull off at times for safety's sake.

Lots of colour too!

There were rice fields, maize then later cattle farms. Cattle, goats and horses were grazing the ample verge, usually unattended. Along the road trees on both sides, although little shade.

Seeing a shaded comedor I pulled in for a very tasty lunch. The heat was rising but I seemed to be handling it ok.
My destination for today is at least Rivas, a gateway to the volcanic island. I had wanted to visit but I'm working to a different priority at the moment.
Feeling good I checked again but I can find no accommodation options along the road until the border. Staying in Rivas leaves me with a long day tomorrow.

Sometimes there are no trees!

I set off again for more of the same. It feels so good to be pedalling and progressing, even if it is hot. I was thinking of continuing on past Rivas to reduce the stress tomorrow. I was feeling good, why not?

And sometimes there are volcanoes!

I stopped for another cold drink and knocked off the last few km to Rivas.

The church in Rivas opposite the Park/Plaza

From the main road there's not much to it, but I found the Park and was charmed!

The Park/Plaza. People shooting the breeze, a couple of concession stands and free wi-fi. A pleasant place to sit and people watch

Feck tomorrow! If this is my last night in Nicaragua this looks like as good a place as any and better than most!

I have no idea!

I got a fruit/juice concoction drink from a pretty lady in the park who complimented me on my Spanish and my nice eyes!
I'll worry about tomorrow, tomorrow!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

HobbesOnTour · 18 Aug 2021

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 06, 2021, Rivas, Nicaragua to Liberia, Costa Rica 114 km Total KM 3587
Min meters 33, Max Meters 281
Total Climb 762 Total Descent 628
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 29

Rivas is a nice town, a bit touristy because it is one of the main access points to the island of Ometepe which is dominated by two large volcanoes. It had been my intention to visit the island for a couple of days but now the priority was Costa Rica.

I wandered around the town unable to find a decent place to eat until I happened across chicken and pork grilling on the side of the street. A plastic table and chair invited me to sit and I enjoyed a delicious, melt in my mouth chicken dinner. Then home and bed.

Early morning light can be magical! Even the windmills didn't bother me.

I slept surprisingly well and was woken by my alarm for the first time in ages. I got up and brewed some coffee. Again, I wasn't in the mood to eat, so got packed and headed off. Today was going to be a long day and finish up in a new country!

Despite the early hour it was already warm. Scratch that - it was hot! I had a Central American flat section to the border than a hefty climb. That initial "flat" section had me sweating and overheating. Every climb was taking it out of me. The downhills were very pleasant though. Best of all the road was quiet. That was a good thing because shoulders don't exist here and the road is quite narrow.

Taking a breather and soaking up this great road. I think Covid may be the cause of the low traffic.

I was cycling along the shore of the big lake but hardly saw it through the trees. There were a lot of windmills - what every cyclist wants to see!

Outside of Rivas I met a group of about a dozen roadies - not one so much as looked at me never mind return my greeting. Antisocial feckers!

Water and trees! I'm feeling spoilt!

Despite being "flat" I was working hard and really heating up. Stopped at one stage, soaking with sweat the wind started to cool me down. I could feel my back and shoulders go goosebumpy as they cooled but inside? Inside it was like a kettle was pumping hot steam into me. It felt hot, wet and mushy.

It was a blissful early morning! Lots of little rivers running to the lake

There were several small rivers to cross that flowed into the lake but mainly I was cycling through trees with rare glimpses of the water to my left.

Coming to the small town of Sapoa, the last Nicaraguan town just before the border I encountered serious roadworks that slowed me right down but emphasised how little traffic was heading in my direction. I took that as a good sign since this border crossing is notorious for being chaotically busy.

I pulled in for some food and replenished my water then on to the border. I had noticed that there were no places to stay along the route, at least none further than the edge of Rivas. It was a good thing I hadn't pushed on yesterday. I'd have hit the border and without insurance wouldn't have been able to pass.

Costa Rica! Looking ominous!

Costa Rica has no requirement for a Covid test. Normally, proof of health insurance is required to enter but in Covid times it has specific requirements for Covid coverage requiring me to take out an insurance policy for my stay. I had done that back in Granada and had a QR code on my phone with all the info.

First I had to leave Nicaragua! A nice, modern building, no queue, pay $1 to queue, $3 to leave. Then I was directed to airport style scanners. All the bags off (not my handlebar bag) and through the scanner. Had to open one pannier to show a powerbank and wheeled the bike past the scanner thereby avoiding awkward questions about my knife and the last of my fuel.

Getting into Costa Rica was straightforward once I located the building. Then it was find a money changer (they were very laid back) and hit the road. Up.

Costa Rica looking a little less ominous! A good road, minimal traffic and feckin' close to nature! The roadside is filled with creatures rummaging in the verge, beautiful, colourful butterflies flit around and birds (and possibly other animals) pass comnentary on the sweaty cyclist!

First impression of Costa Rica was wet! It started to rain literally as I crossed the border.
Next impression was green! Lots of green! And wild! That idea I've expressed before of being close to Nature was blown out of the water - at times plants, mainly grass, taller than me were brushing against me as I rode.

The first dogs I met were barkers and chasers. I haven't had a chase in a while. I hoped it was just the rain that refreshed them and that sleeping dogs would soon become the norm. Later, two angry ones got a bit close but stopped dead when their boss called them. Impressive!

Volcanoes with clouds working their magic and lots and lots of green!

I had more rain on the climb. Heavy rain. Unlike other days the temperature didn't drop much so I didn't get cold. I didn't bother donning a rain jacket since I was already soaking. I just kept on going. Traffic was picking up though. Especially truck traffic.

Finally, the climbing levelled off, or at least what passes for level in these parts. Again, it was great to be motoring along. I came to the town of La Cruz and pulled in to a restaurant to eat. I was hungry and thirsty! I left after 25 minutes having had nothing. One other table of two parents and a child and the waitress ignored me after giving me a menu.
I set off again low on water looking for a shop.

That was a mistake! There are no frequent shops here like elsewhere. In fact there was nothing for ages. I was down to the dregs of my water. And it was all warm.
This was a difference and a substantial one. Whereas close to the border there were some small villages and a few farms it appeared that now I was in the jungle. With no-one around! Normally I'd pull in to savour that sensation but not today.

Finally, with about 45km to go I came across an empty restaurant. Open!
I had some rice with prawns, guzzled a fruit drink then relaxed over a coffee.

Costa Rica does standalone trees too!

My destination, Liberia was in reach now. I had a reservation at a hostel to stay Friday & Saturday and hold my gear for a few days. Saturday was Covid test day and Sunday was off to the airport day. Not making Liberia today would put me under pressure on all kinds of fronts tomorrow.

I set off again and had a wonderful, gentle descent for a while. From one moment to the next the countryside went from dense trees (at least along the road) to wide open plain. That helped the wind try to blow me off the road. And the traffic got heavier. With one notable exception the trucks were generally good, pickups were generally good too, SUVs were obnoxious and delivery vans were the worst.

Scenery boring? Check out the sky!

With about 5km to Liberia the road filled with a line if traffic so I was very, very glad to make my turn off to the hostel. Starving (again!) I passed, found a chicken restaurant and ate a very satisfying chicken dinner. I returned to the hostel, checked in, showered and did very little.

A river that is not muddy and brown with floodwater

Chat? Yes Please!
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HobbesOnTour · 18 Aug 2021

Saturday August 07

Liberia

I am not cut out for hostels!
Or else I'm just getting old! ^_^

In fact both!

It was interesting yesterday evening watching a group of relative strangers cook a meal together. The Dutch cook really did not appreciate the German girl telling him how to cook.
Others had a discussion, heated at times, about salt in Guacamole!
Everyone seemed in pairs, either couples or travelling together either permanently or for a few days.
Listening to how plans were made, suggestions offered and accepted or rejected was interesting. Very different from my process.
"Oh, you must go to X! It's fantastic! I had a great time there and didn't want to leave".
"What did you see? Where should I go to visit?"
"I don't know, I just partied".

Liberia. Some official building

A "helper" at the hostel was quite snotty with me but I was amused to see him fawning over two German girls. In fact, he was incredibly helpful to anyone who possessed ovaries and friendly to guys if they had a companion, travelling or romantic.

A bit of peace and calm in a small park

Today was all about one thing - a Covid test reserved at the airport. It gave me a chance to do a dummy run to the airport in advance of a Sunday departure. Buses in these parts can be unreliable.
I tend to being a tad chaotic for these things but I had a mental vision of big, heavy dominoes, all in a line. Even a stumble and the line fails.

Out in plenty of time for my test I was delighted to be taken in ahead of schedule and had my negative results within an hour.
I explored the small, simple airport (self check-in disabled) and caught the bus back to Liberia.

The interesting (and to me severe) church in Liberia

Then off to explore the town. There was an interesting church but the parks didn't really grab me.

There's a strong US vibe here. Cars are more plentiful and bigger. American brands are everywhere. English is spoken easily.
One thing a few bike tourists have commented on is the animal life and I saw my (second) iguana in the wild, a fine, big, colourful, healthy one on the side of the main road!
I found the town to be bustling busy, less noisy than other places but less laid back. Perhaps just anxiety about tomorrow but I wasn't feeling it.

Iguana!

I went back to the hostel to make the arrangements to store my gear. I needed to talk to the boss for that and he had been absent.
In the end he wanted me to load everything up and cycle somewhere else, to someone else. That wasn't going to work for me. With no energy and no time to organise something else I booked the room until I returned and prepped for my journey.
I made sure I had all the dates of my entry and exit to different countries, copies of my itinerary, hotel and important addresses. My Covid result. My passport with US visa.
Then I read a while.
Sleep, anxious, nervous sleep, eventually arrived.

The rather disappointing Plaza/Park

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HobbesOnTour · 19 Aug 2021

Austin Day 1

Getting the vaccine

I
AM
THE
LUCKIEST
BA$TA*D
IN
THE
WORLD!

Everything went smoothly in the morning. Up, made coffee, caught the bus, checked in, on the plane and flew to Houston.

It was 2008 the last time I was on a plane for anything more than a short hop. I used to love airports and planes, not so much now. The best part was the screen in the seat in front of me! I put up the map and watched us zoom across Nicaragua - an interesting contrast to my pace!

Immigration in Houston had me nervous but the queue flowed smoothly. No problem with the visa,
"Why are you coming?"
"For a medical procedure"
"Have a nice stay"
Then on to Austin.

Houston to Austin looks pretty flat!

The shuttle bus didn't arrive to take me to the hotel so I caught a cab. I ate disappointingly in the hotel restaurant and went to bed. Sleep was fitful. I think I am not used to airco.
I was in Austin, none of the things that could have tripped me up did. A poor night's sleep wasn't too bad in the big scheme of things.

For @CharlesF - the King may be dead but he isn't forgotten!

I woke up later than planned, showered, coffeed and set off walking to a pharmacy I had picked out.

There is conflicting information online that changes constantly about availability of vaccines, appointments etc. With a phone that did not function as a phone I needed a face to face bit of advice and information. Also, Austin is a virus hotspot at the moment with pleas being issued for people to get a vaccine. Nobody walks here. At least not far. I had parts of the city to myself.

The Texas Capitol with an ominous looking sky!

Near to the Capitol (designed to be taller than the one in Washington! Yes, I think I said it before - I love that little bit of Trivia!) I entered a very quiet pharmacy and within 10 minutes Lauren had taken my details, the absolutely barest of details, and given me the jab. Job done.
I really couldn't believe it. At the very least I had expected to make an appointment. Instead I was vaccinated. Johnson and Johnson one shot.
Since the vaccine is free, even to me, stateless, homeless and some might say feckless, I had asked Lauren for her favourite charity. While passing the 15 minutes I had to wait before leaving (to make sure there were no adverse effects) I went online and donated $100 to the Austin Volunteer Health Clinic, an organisation that helps folks without insurance.

9:30 and I was done!
I walked out into a different world!

I had made no plans. Superstitious me didn't want to look forward to anything. But of course, it was Monday - the great Bob Schneider's residency in the Saxon Pub. The link to direct to tickets wasn't working. Not a good sign.
Posting on Facebook, a friend immediately replied that Jason Isbell was playing in Austin that night - sold out. (By going to Charleston I effectively missed my chance to see him play the historic and spiritual Ryman in Nashville. Were the Touring Gods giving me a second chance to see him on the Austin City Limits stage?)

I did have dinner plans, though. Willie ( @cwskas ) had been in touch to offer whatever assistance I might need.
I wandered off to explore Austin, to buy the CD I buy every year (only available in one store in Austin and, thankfully, online) and to visit REI - a big sporting goods store.

Willie was on for seeing Bob but even after opening time of the pub they weren't answering the phone. Looking online I could buy two tickets for Jason Isbell from a reseller. Done!

Willie brought me to an old, authentic diner for a big feed then we drove to the gig. Minor panic when I needed to prove my vaccination status (thankfully I had taken a photo and it did the trick) and we were in.

The incomparable Willie Nelson outside the gig

After I left San Antonio I had thought that my musical pilgrimage was over. Here I was, 18 months later, in a place I never expected to return to and not only was I seeing Jason Isbell and his band, but the warm up was Lucinda Williams - a fantastic performer with a rich voice and some intense lyrics. Truly, we never know what the road will throw at us!

Lucinda took to the stage slowly. Suffering the effects of a stroke last November she had to be helped onstage and manoeuvred into a seat. A guitar player, she held nothing in her hands.
A performance that could have been a pity fest was anything but.

It was a tour de force of a performance.

Backed up by a guitarist, bassist and drummer (and later a guest guitarist) her voice powered above it all.
If you're familiar with her work you'll know her lyrics can be defiant. Scary at times too!

That show was defiance!

Between songs she talked of Blaze Foley and Townes van Zandt (big fan) in a way that made me, at least, feel like they were just behind the curtain. Those are special moments.

For the last three songs she stood up, a roadie lifting her out of her chair, turning it so that she could use it to support herself and giving her a hug.
Defiance!
When it was over I turned to Willie and said that we may as well go home because nothing was going to better that.*

I was right.

Austin City Limits. Back when I had a DVD collection I had more than a few ACLs. Now I've been to a show! It's feckin' amazing at times where a bike will take us!

*Willie reckons that he saw a guy scrolling through an ipad that was projecting lyrics onto a screen in front of her. I'd seen him and thought he was controlling the lighting. No offence to Willie, but I'm going to forget what he saw.

I enjoy watching the road crews rip a set up apart and set up the new one. These guys were highly organised. The keyboards, organised on three sides of a square were rolled onstage on their own platform.
When everything was set up I had never seen such a controlled, organised, sterile stage setup.

Not as good as the Mexican ones!

I've never seen Jason Isbell live but I've heard him live. He's a great lyricist. He has a way with words, with tone, with rhythm, tempo and spacing that can pick you up and pull you right into a scene - no matter how unfamiliar. If you like your music emotionless, he's not for you.
And yet, that's how I found the gig - emotionless.
Everything was perfect. Too perfect. Planned, choreographed and executed. With extreme precision.
Looking around the crowd were enjoying it, but they weren't in it.
In fairness, he did say that these are the first gigs that he and the band have played together (as opposed to over Zoom) in ages and the music tended to celebratory. I suppose it's understandable if four guys rebond, reconnect and have fun on stage.

And they were on after Lucinda Williams. Nobody, and I mean nobody, could have generated the emotion, the spirit, the energy or the power that was in the air while she was on stage.

It was an interesting contrast - "new school" high tech, multicoloured pedal boards, automatic lighting, perfect sound and coordination versus "old school" defiance.

What a terrible tourist I am!

I passed the Mexican American Cultural Centre but it was effectively closed which was disappointing for me. I think I'm much better equipped to grasp some of the nuance in such a complex relationship. With the rule about off leash dogs I'm guessing that's more US than Mexican culture

Back in my sterile hotel I was exhausted but I took a few minutes to contemplate where I was, what I had achieved and to be grateful.
So many things could have gone wrong but instead everything went to plan and then I got dessert added on.

The Luckiest Ba$ta*d in the world

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