The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

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OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 884 Monday, February 14, 2022, Tuluá to Restrepo 63km Total KM 16616
Min meters 968, Max Meters 1622,
Total Climb 821, Total Descent 396
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 29

Magnetic Mountains

I took a wander after a cold shower and was a tad disappointed. The Plaza was quiet with none of the usual stalls selling food and drinks. My looked forward to coffee along the river was holed under the waterline by only juice stands. Nothing wrong with a juice but coffee it ain't. I did get my coffee fix at a bakery but it was nowhere near the Plaza nor the river so there was little to see.

Expecting rain at any moment I had my rainjacket with me. In the end, unnecessary. A huge and I mean HUGE dinner in a Chinese restaurant nearly had me comatose. The young girl serving me was both delighted and confused by my laughing reaction to the tray of food that came out. A small tip and some words of thanks as I left made me feel like I'd made her the happiest girl on the planet.

As big roads go this is certainly not the worst!
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There's a thing here that I can't get my head around. Sometimes people in hotels, restaurants, cafés, bakeries can be very friendly, efficient and professional and at other times I could be invisible left standing and ignored. There's no apparent common denominator. Men can be as bad as women, young as good as old.

After dinner I had another wander but Tuluá is big, the centre is commercial and it being a Sunday evening all was closed. I went back to the hotel to update this on WiFi but as is so often the case it was non existent. Sleep time

After turning off at Buga, retracing my wheelturns from a couple of months ago.
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Here's the thing with dropping down to 1000 meters above sea level - it gets hot and humid. My room had a fan but no external windows. I was warm but sweated and the circulation of air from the fan chilled my skin. Inside I'm feeling like a banked coal fire but I still wake up with cold, goosebumpy skin. I was awake at 2 and again at 4:30 for that reason.

Up at seven I popped out for a bite to eat and to figure out where to go. I had two options - one was to continue south on the highway, hot, flat, noisy, dull. The other was to turn into the mountains in the west and head for a lake that I had missed on my way north. Remi, the French bikepacker had suggested this. It was a choice between flat and mountains. Normally that's a no brainer in my world but I'm feeling the climbing these days. A good hard day of pounding the pedals and covering a big distance would feel good.

The Río Cauca........ Again!!
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Then I saw the bad news.
A guy I knew in NL had died. While not friends we were friendly. Competitors of a type we helped each other out over the years. He was one of the very few who was friendly and showed a bit of respect to me when I arrived all those years ago. Hard as the proverbial nails he had a soft heart. The world is a less kind place today.
That hit me hard. A day like this is when I miss Hobbes the most.

I needed time to process. A long, flat, big road would let me pump out the frustration. He retired in time for lockdown and died as the world is starting to open up again. That is so unfair.

I set off heading towards Buga, Tuluá taking a while to leave - it's big.
Cycling is great for my head. Pump the legs to work out the excess tension, roar into a passing truck to do the same. And when ready, take the negativity, scrunch it up and toss it aside. Every pedal stroke leaves it further and further behind.

I didn't need to enter Buga so I didn't, stopping for a second breakfast and a chance to think. I still had both options open to me. Turn off here for the mountains or continue straight for the flat. I turned off for the mountains.

And, like that, my day started to change.

10km further I finally was on a road new to me. I was also facing into a 600 meter climb straight up. Spying a store in a huge area of trucks I pulled in for a cold drink and to top up my water. I was going to need it!

Henry and his bike. Annoyed that I took a photo while he was dealing with a trucker he demanded I take another with him. He "specialises" in leather belts and back braces for truck drivers but has all kinds of stuff for sale. And he has business cards!
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I met Henry with his bike. He pushes it everywhere, 100kg of bike and stock. He has no drivetrain so couldn't pedal even if he wanted to and his brakes don't work. Brute force gets it going and stops it. He makes his living selling to truckers pushing his bike around the few points where the trucks pull in.
He was amazed at my load and even more amazed that I cycled up hills! When I told him we'd done the Alto de Letras his reaction was one of amazement - I didn't think he'd know it!
I set off up the hill with a smile on my face.

Climbing up into very different country. When people describe Colombia as "diverse" they are not wrong!
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A rough two laner became a new, split four laner with a good shoulder after a km or two. There were a lot of trucks (heading to Buenaventura) struggling up just like me, the odd one trying its damndest to smother me with thick, black smoke. Even without the fumes the heat from the engines was intense adding to the temperature that stubbornly sat on 39C.

It's like a different country
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Breaks were frequent. And warm! I sat on one wall that had been warmed by the sun. My poor bum felt very pampered^_^. Osmand suggested that the steepest parts were at the start and my legs weren't arguing with that. But Colombia was Colombia and was changing before my eyes. This is the thing about this country - it is so diverse. More mountains, new mountains, but a totally different view and perspective. It didn't even take that long for the views to kick in.

A decent road for a bike especially if going downhill!^_^
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Traffic was, in the main very respectful. Trucks pulled over to keep a full lane between me and them when they could. Lots of beeps and waves of support and one trucker heading down opposite blasted his horn several times then leaned out his window waving with one hand, his phone in the other and shouting something (which I took in a positive manner). Crazy, yes. Dangerous, yes. Inspiring, definitely.

I whinge and moan and complain about climbing...... But I always appreciate it - or nearly always
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My target was to hit 1740 meters and I was not too far off when I pulled in at a little restaurant called "The Cyclist's Rest" where Carlos & Christina made me most welcome. A delicious coffee, two fantastic little banana breads and a teeny tiny banana (popular with cyclists - they squash it, bite off the top and squeeze the mushed banana into their mouth) set me up for the rest of the ride. Carlos was very curious about my trip and full of information, warning me to stay away from Buenaventura (Henry did too, miming guns and stabbings!), not to be out after dark (armed men are out even in these parts) and under no circumstances wild camp. He was impressed that Osmand was directing me right - he told me that online maps often go wrong around here. A very pleasant break.

I set off again up the last part of the climb. I had been sweating ferociously since the start and am genuinely amazed at how much water I expel!

The summit when it came was a bit of a damp squib but it gave me some options. There's a lake to my west that I can cycle around if I like. There are some camping options over there. But it's a windy lake and home to lots of windsurfing schools. There's more climbing to get around but if the wind is with me.........?

The lake which I considered doing a lap of. I'd have a tough headwind all the time and the lake left me cold. So I skipped it.
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It wasn't! In fact it was very much against me! And, surprisingly for me, the lake didn't look like much. I wonder what it is about Colombian lakes but they're not doing it for me. I stuck with plan A and stuck to my side of the lake.

The descent, when the wind wasn't trying to strangle me, was a lot of fun. Fast! Twisty! Hurtling down to a bend I saw what I thought were two touring cyclists ahead of me. I was right but they were walking. I pulled up to see if I could help. She had a puncture on her totally unsuitable road bike with teeny tiny tyres and a big load. I offered patches but the tube was apparently completely fecked. They were walking on to a small village around the bend. How long they had been pushing I have no idea but they were as happy as Larry doing so. Me? I'd be feckin' and blinding at having to push down but they didn't stop smiling. We wished each other luck and I set off again realising I hadn't asked their names or where they were from or going to. Passing the "village" I had my doubts they'd find a new tube there.

A little later I sailed past a bail out option, a roadside hotel and restaurant. I was about 15km from a town no way was I going to spend a night on the side of the road.

Back on a small road to Restrepo
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I turned off the main road and zipped a bit more downhill on a narrow road lined with bright green tall grass. I had to modify my speed because of the terrible surface. A few humps and I arrived at the town of Restrepo. No coffee in the Plaza but a bakery supplied the necessary. Caffeined up, I headed for a hotel recommended by Carlos. A beautiful, old building and a decent rate including breakfast. A cold, mountain cold, shower and out to explore.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 884 Monday, February 14, 2022, Restrepo

The church in Restrepo
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The Plaza

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These towns can have a real hodgepodge of housing styles

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One of the worst placed Town signs that I've come across

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Arty Farty shot

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No, not a shot of a Corsa, but one of the very, very few examples of street art

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We're waiting for you! Dream your future, come to school

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The inside of the pleasant church. The stained glass above the altar was striking

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These fellas were in the Plaza. Despite the "cages" I'm assuming they are replicas - have a look in the background for why 😀

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And another.

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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 885 Tuesday, February 15, 2022, Restrepo to Yumbo 46km Total KM 16662
Min meters 1015, Max Meters 1782,
Total Climb 896, Total Descent 1270
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 28

It seems that the cheese eating surrender monkeys have taken a dislike to me!

Of late internet has been very fickle. Last night I had no signal in my room so sat beside the reception desk to update this. Since the upgrade to the forum software the process has become more frustrating and generally takes longer than before. Last night I had the added distraction of a couple having sex close by to distract me. At first, it was a single, female moan that I thought nothing of - probably a tv - but it developed a rhythm of its own and increased in volume, eventually penetrating my consciousness. The lack of a musical soundtrack confirmed that it was a "live" performance as opposed to TV.
Now, this wasn't my first time hearing a couple having sexytime on this trip but it was certainly the most public. And a little strange.
For a start there was no other noise whatsoever. Not a whimper from the other participant, not an exchange of words. And no environmental noise at all - it's a very old building and walking anywhere was accompanied by creaks and groans.
To add to the strangeness, the night receptionist was a stern lady of advanced years who sighed and tut tutted at regular intervals.
I found it amusing although it didn't help a nagging sense of loneliness.

Taking a breather in the shade
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Breakfast was included so at 7:30 I was tucking into scrambled eggs, an arepa and cheese with a coffee. Then the bike was retrieved - Roccado had his own room and I loaded up. I thought about and rejected the notion of another coffee, anxious to get on the road.

The countryside changes so quickly around here
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The first few kms would be flatish then I'd drop before starting a 400 meter climb to La Cumbre. I expected to lunch there then probably continue on to Yumbo at a lower altitude. I wasn't sure about that, though. This was a road I'd rejected on the way north but had been recommended by Remi, the French bikepacker.

A whole new palette of colours
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The only thing of note was slightly heavier traffic than yesterday but not much by most standards. There was little to see in the early stages but things opened up for the short descent. Going down was tricky with a dodgy surface and sharp bends.

Am I heading into a desert?
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Things got a whole lot more interesting when I had a blowout on my front tyre. At first, I had no idea what was going on. I was hurtling down when all of a sudden the steering became heavy, the bike pulled me to the centre of the road and became incredibly unstable. I wrestled the handlebars to the right, hit the brakes and lost control just as I stopped. Still with no idea what happened I looked down and saw the front tyre flatter than I've ever seen it. I've never had such a rapid deflation. It was damn scary!

Patches of green where the farmers are busy
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In bright sunshine I pushed on a bit to where there was shade but some dogs were having none of that! I pushed a bit further to a quieter spot and set about removing the wheel.

Colours! And a hot wall!
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I found the hole pretty quickly but it was on the underside of the tube - the bit that's not in contact with the tyre. I checked the tyre anyway, found nothing then turned to the rim. Sure enough, in roughly the right spot the rim tape had moved exposing the "hole" the nipple lives in. Unsure if it would stay in place with a pressurised tube in there I dug out my electrical tabe to cover the area anyway. Then got ready to leave. I was still a bit shaken by the whole experience.

Rolling hills and a rolling bend!
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I didn't have to worry for long about a fast descent because the climb started. And started with a bang - all the steep bits first. With the temperature hovering around the 30C mark it was hot work. And slow.

That's my road down there
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At a certain point I really started to regret not having a second coffee! I had lots of water, though and I needed it. I was sweating like a very sweaty thing again. The road was very steep at times, the bends very sharp and the camber of the road added to the steepness of the bends. The easiest and safest was to push around the bends on the more gentle side - whatever that may be.

Some of the bends were crazy steep
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A couple in a car stopped for a chat on the roadside. I was invited back to Restrepo for coffee! I declined.
I also saw the first tractor that I've seen in ages working on a perilously steep hill. I also picked up a couple of passengers at one of my stops. Setting off I started getting a stinging sensation on first, one ankle, then both. Two tiny feckin' ants!!!

My road(s)
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To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 885 Tuesday, February 15, 2022, Restrepo to Yumbo 46km Total KM 16662
Min meters 1015, Max Meters 1782,
Total Climb 896, Total Descent 1270
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 28

It seems that the cheese eating surrender monkeys have taken a dislike to me! Part Two

This was beyond steep! Just lying there waiting to crush my spirit
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By the time I made it to the top I was ready to call it a day but of course, I wasn't finished. A slight descent over a few kms and I arrived in the small settlement of Pavas. Bigger then it looked on a map I pulled up for coffee at a roadside kiosk (no Plaza). I was horrified to be served instant coffee! The Touring Gods were having a laugh!
I also bought an empanada and a cold drink then set off for the 4km to La Cumbre. Instant or not, I was bloody glad I'd had a coffee! The ascent was ridiculously steep. I'm talking 20% steep and sometimes above! The road "levelled off" at gradients of 8%!
I pushed. And swore! And understood why no-one likes the French! ^_^

Mountain life
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La Cumbre when I arrived was a disappointment. The Plaza was new and was more of a sports area than a relaxation area. There was no sign of a church. I got a proper coffee (Yaaaàaay!) and a bite to eat in a bakery from a girl who could turn curdled milk sour and decided to move on.
That meant another 300 meter climb as steep as the last section. I braced myself and set off.

The one advantage of height.....
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Then the town, or rather the people, started to charm me.
I found the church on the way (up and) out and also a delightful Italian restaurant with a wonderful mural. Stopping to take a couple of photos I had a veritable line of people queueing up to talk to me. It was quite pleasant and had me thinking of staying. But I was committed (and I hadn't seen a place to stay).

I'd pass a whole forest of these trees. The leaves in the wind made an eerie noise
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Looking at my climbing for the day it's nothing special but the meters don't illuminate the grade. It was hideous. Push, pause, push some more. My mood wasn't helped by a sharp increase in traffic.
When the gradient lessened I hopped on and cycled, generally to the next bend where the gradient went well into double figures again. A false summit nearly finished me off. Then I arrived at the top and everything changed.

That's a hand painted sign!
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Meaning no disrespect to any women reading this bike touring can sometimes be like childbirth - agony gets forgotten about and we line up to do it all over again! With the apparent enjoyment of the lady last night^_^

I was grinning so hard going down that nobody would believe just how much I was grimacing on the way up!

I swore and I grunted and I cursed ....... But then ......
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Now, it wasn't the perfect descent by any means - the road could be treacherous - but I made the most of it by going as slow as I could and stopping as regularly as I could. I got to see all new sights including cycling through a forest with trees that swished at me. The descent, being just as steep as the ascent at times was either terrifying or life affirming, depending on my mood at that moment.

There's always a tree......
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Things became trickier when the surface became concrete slabs. The "join" down the centre of the road was often danaged and lethal for a bike and the joins between slabs were often cracked or broken leading to little ramps or gaps.

Running along a river valley with the sun sinking behind the hills. By rights I should have gone faster......
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Fading light in the mountains should have had me hurrying up but I neither wanted to or could go faster. Sure, I could stop less, but what's the point of that?

You can't see much ...... But I saw it all!^_^
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I had two close passes on the descent, both from oncoming traffic overtaking, one of which was when I was stopped. Having a jackass whizz past me as I stood with my back to the road having a whizz myself had a certain symmetry.

Getting close to Yumbo two guys stopped beside a motorbike started shouting at me in a way that I understood to be unfriendly, then a little later, three guys were standing in the middle if the road looking for money for "repairs" to the road. They weren't happy with donations, explicitly demanding money while waving a shovel and a rake. They weren't too happy when I weaved through them.

Looking back......
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Yumbo was busy. Hectically so. And with a vibe that made me cautious - Calí is just down the road. I saw a couple of places to stay, all with ridiculous stairs and kept looking until I found a place with no stairs. A decent rate, a groundfloor room and Roccado secure in a store room I had a cold shower and set out to explore.


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 885 Tuesday, February 15, 2022, Restrepo to Yumbo 46km Total KM 16662
Min meters 1015, Max Meters 1782,
Total Climb 896, Total Descent 1270
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 28

It seems that the cheese eating surrender monkeys have taken a dislike to me!
The Towns (and things) along the way.

The modern but sterile, functional Plaza in La Cumbre
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The football pitch in La Cumbre with an amazing view
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The church in La Cumbre, on the way out of town
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Street Art, La Cumbre
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Guess!
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A fantastic, bright Italian restaurant in La Cumbre. For people who have never been, nor probably never will get, to Italy. I really, really liked it. That's commitment to a concept. It's a pity it was closed.
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I stopped for my "arrival" coffee while still on the way down. This was a decoration made from waste metal
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On a dangerous bend near Yumbo

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Guess!
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Yumbo made me antsy and I limited my wanderings. There was little street art that I came across
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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 886 Wednesday, February 16, 2022, Yumbo to Santander de Quilichao 95km Total KM 16712
Min meters 983, Max Meters 1084,
Total Climb 91, Total Descent 74
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 32

Back to flat

I was up early and popped out to grab some breakfast. Maybe it's inevitable on a long trip like this but I had the very bizarre experience of stepping out into the street and not having a clue where I was. It was very disorienting. The penny eventually dropped and I shuffled off bemused for a decent version of huevos rancheros in a bakery - still not a patch on México, though!

By rights I should have been smarter and set off earlier. I'm right outside Calí and while avoiding the city I wasn't going to avoid the traffic. I was also going to be travelling south on a road I didn't take when heading north. A quick Google had shown a big road with a shoulder - I just needed to get to it.

Roccado had spent the night in a storeroom so I was able to load him up inside and wheel him outside into the world - and the rain! Whoah! This wasn't the plan! It was light rain and with the warm temperature I headed off dressed as I was.

Rain, crap road, crap surface, crazy traffic. It took me a while to realise that I should have left earlier.
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The traffic wasn't nice, the surface was worse and the wet weather was the icing on the cake. It was not fun. I had to make several turns on big roads to avoid the city and it was only when I was on the road to Palmira that everything settled down. I wouldn't be going to Palmira though.

Having resisted the urge to stop for a coffee until I had some peace I pulled in to a commercial area and ordered a coffee. The young lady had the good manners to let me know it was instant coffee - thwarted! I had a cold coke instead.

The Flatlands!
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This is a long, flat section, hot and well trafficked - not my favourite conditions - so I had decided to put in a long day and get as much of it over with as soon as possible. My destination would be Santander de Quilichao, a crazy town I had stopped in on my way north. After that I'd have no alternate route for a while. There was a more circuitous eastern route I could take but iOverlander had some warnings dating back to 2018. Not the friendliest places it would seem. In any case, Candelaria would be my first big town.

The nice, big road to Palmira. If you look to the right there's a bike path (I think a part of the old road) that links Calí to Palmira
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In one sense the cycling was great - I had a good shoulder, flat road and could really put the hammer down and fly along. It's very rewarding to put in the effort and see the countryside roll by. There has been very little of this kind of cycling for quite a while. It reminded me a lot of NL but with more traffic and a lot more heat.
The flip side is that it's quite boring. While it's satisfying to see km after km count down on Gizmo I'm not really the type to be motivated by that. Left and right are huge fields of sugarcane, hardly inspiring scenery and while there are plenty of interesting trees the conditions for stopping to appreciate them are not ideal.

Lots of wonderful trees
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After taking the turnoff before Palmira and now heading due south the big, beautiful four laner became two lanes. Thankfully my shoulder remained intact although in agricultural land it was often full of dried mud or gravel.

I diced with death to cross the road to enter Candelaria, a town that doesn't look like much along the road but surprises the traveller who ventures in. A bright and cheerful Plaza and an interesting church with great doors was enough to make the detour worthwhile. Only one lady selling coffee so I sat down to have a think. I had about 50km in the bank with about the same to go. But I was bored. This was where I could take a loop east that was longer, hiller and on a smaller road. To hell with the warnings, I thought, 2018 was a long time ago.

Sugarcane. Great stuff! Just not much fun to cycle past
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I had just made up my mind when a young guy approached me and started talking swiftly to me. I knew he wanted money but I couldn't follow his language. I replied that I was only learning Spanish and asked if he could speak slower. To my surprise he rolled his eyes, sighed and in a definite angry tone recounted the same spiel just as fast. I looked at him and gestured with my hands that I wasn't understanding when he barked at me for not understanding and went through his spiel for a third time. It was only later that the penny dropped that he was following a "script" of some kind and making no allowance for his audience. For the third time I told him I didn't understand and that I couldn't if he spoke so fast. I also told him that I had nothing for him prompting him to glare at me and stomp off, still glaring over his shoulder.
It's getting annoying being constantly asked for money. Perhaps it's me but people who don't demand, who speak a bit slower and come across as genuine are more likely to get something. It's particularly galling when I appear to be picked out and a beeline made for me. It practically never happens when I'm on the bike. The bike (and helmet) were parked up about 10 meters away.

Interesting things from today....
A convoy of horses and carts.....
I thought my travelling method was tough.....

That's some kind of a flying bug, about the size of my big toe. These guys have a habit of flying into my chest which results in them hitting the ground.
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I had a bite to eat and while eating a few comments were directed less to me and more about me by people passing by. I decided, that no, I won't take the loop. I'll stick to the main road. Before leaving town I hit a bank and as I turned a corner a man crossing the road dropped his phone without noticing. I called out a few times to get his attention, finally got it, explained and pointed to the phone and received not a jot of gratitude. Or even recognition. Nothing. Zip. Nada. (Later, a woman dropped a 2000 peso note, about 50 cents, and I did the same to the exact same reaction. I handed her the note and she snapped it out of my fingers, turned around and walked away.)

Back on a two laner. Decent shoulder most of the time and lots of those sugarcane truck trains
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Back on the road, fuelled up by food, coffee and some indignation I powered along. Lots of traffic didn't affect me much in my shoulder. I bypassed Puerto Tejada because it looked too big and too far but pulled off into Villa Rica for another coffee in another Plaza. I could see the sky darkening but couldn't make myself hurry up. I had a second coffee.

But sometimes, just sometimes I had this......
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Setting off I had a bit of a race on my hands. The temperature dropped 5 degrees in five kms, a sure sign of impending rain. The wind had picked up too. To be honest, I wasn't in the mood for Santander de Quilichao - it's a crazy busy place but iOverlander had a hotel on the outskirts that was bike tourist friendly. I could avoid the town.
A storm seemed to be incoming as I arrived but the bike friendly place was too expensive. Another place up the road but outside the centre was cheaper. A couple of shops and some eating places nearby meant a quiet night. Home!

Today's río is running through the sugarcane
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Getting near the craziness and trying to beat a scary looking sky
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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 886 Wednesday, February 16, 2022, Yumbo to Santander de Quilichao 95km Total KM 16712
Min meters 983, Max Meters 1084,
Total Climb 91, Total Descent 74
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 32

Back to flat

The Towns along the way

Guess!
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The very pleasant church in Candelaria

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The impressive door of the church
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Pigeon house! One of the prettiest so far!
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Do i have to?
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Street Art, Villa Rica
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A pleasant, utilitarian Plaza in Villa Rica
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Coming into Crazytown with a threatening sky
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Stalls along the road (next morning)
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Street Art Santander de Quilichao (next morning)

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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Some Odds'n'Ends.....


I love how ordinary things are recycled into something special
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And I thought I was heavily loaded!
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When the road changes...... It changes!
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Elections are coming up
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Subsidence is everywhere......
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Lizards are everywhere!
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Hmmmmmmm. Cake!
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I have no idea!
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More recycling. Simple and cheerful
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Town signs are often sponsored, usually with beer and can be miles from the town. Often they include basic info to do with population, altitude and average temperature as well as the town motto or slogan
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Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 887 Thursday, February 17, 2022, Santander de Quilichao to Roadside Restaurant/Hotel* 25km Total KM 16737
Min meters 1088, Max Meters 1487,
Total Climb 581, Total Descent 286
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 35


*Google: 2.8413141, -76.5436373


An overnight visit from the Puncture Fairy


Sleep didn't come easy nor early last night. I woke up at 6:30, got dressed and promptly lay back down for a nap. I woke up an hour later feeling worse. I had no enthusiasm for the day so went across the road for a coffee. I'm back on a familiar road, dull by Colombian standards, and most of it is uphill.


I returned to the hotel, dropped my gear down to reception then downstairs to pick up Roccado. Puncture! Rear wheel flat as the proverbial. What a start to the day!

Is this not a perfect road? Good shoulder, decent surface, interesting vegetation........ I just wasn't feeling it.
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I set about fixing it - a surprisingly small hole with no source in the tyre. Finally, I was ready to go. Now I needed breakfast though. I stopped at a bakery and as I dismounted one of the girls working there was staring at me with a huge smile and bright eyes. She was soon over to talk about my trip telling me how much she wanted to do something similar herself. She worried about being fit and strong enough. I kept shtum about my 95km day yesterday and explained that there are no rules. On a bike we can travel for as long or short as we like. A 20km day can be very pleasant.
While I was eating an older man approached me to ask me where I was from, where I had travelled to and where I was off to. He finished with a "Welcome to Colombia". A lot of people do that here, even now that I'm here five months! Five months!

An interesting old bridge along what I presume is the old version of this road
632440
To get out of town I had to climb a hill that was taller than all the climbing yesterday! Then it was an up and down road followed by a descent and then the start of a long climb to Piendamó. With my nap, the puncture, the leisurely breakfast I had left late and was now getting the full blast of the sun.

A very rare sight! No, not chickens, the fact that they are behind bars!! I have become so used to chickens aling the roadside that I'm going to miss them when I'm in a more "civilised" place
632438
Before that climb I pulled in for a cold drink at a small settlement along the road. The young girl serving me laughed at my pronunciation so we had a chat with granny in the corner listening in. I'd parked across the road so when I returned to Roccado to head off again I was surprised when a line of soldiers emerged from a small road and started to fan out along the main road. Given the choice of a long, hot climb or some excitement I plumped for the latter and settled myself on the kerb.
Nothing happened. Some held their guns as I imagine highly trained soldiers do but others held them casually - as I imagine I might do on a hot day when I'm tired. There was no interaction with the locals, no stopping of traffic, just a dozen or so armed soldiers stretched out on both sides of the road. The only excitement was when a passing motorbike backfired. I nearly jumped out of my skin and was leaning over to lie flat on the ground when it dawned on me what had happened. The soldiers didn't seem bothered at all. With nothing happening I set off again.

In fairness to Colombia there is rarely anything that is not interesting to see...... It just didn't feel like it. I tried drumming up enthusiasm but it wasn't working
632433

I am not enjoying the climbing at the moment. It doesn't help that I'm on familiar roads. A cycling buddy would be good to gee me up seeing as I'm not doing a good job of it myself.
It was slow going and any bit of shade, a rare commodity, was utilised.

The countryside was doing its best for me
632445
I had to reach an altitude of 1800 meters having left at about 1000 meters. At 1400 meters though, I still had the guts of another 1000 meters to go because of all the ups and downs in the road. I figured that out sitting at a little roadside place having a coffee. Any break from the heat was welcome.

A little cascada on a little río
632436

I knew there'd be places to stay along the way though and as I set off again I could feel my enthusiasm for another 1000 meters waning. It's not that I was lacking anything physically, the lack was between my ears. There's little that's new ahead of me, little of interest, and the sense of exploration, of discovery has disappeared.

There's a lot of political graffiti.......
632437
I stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch and had some very good chicken and a pleasant and interesting chat with a girl working there. Since they had good food and rooms I enquired about the cost for a night. 25k said one girl, the other said 20k. Sold!

I still get a little overwhelmed by the sheer variety of vegetation
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A leisurely late afternoon and relaxing night was just what the doctor ordered.

A part of someone's back garden! Imagine growing up there!
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Long. Dull. Dreary. Repetitive. That wasn't what was on display but it was what I was feeling
632443




Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 888 Friday, February 18, 2022, Roadside Restaurant/Hotel to Piendamó 27km Total KM 16764
Min meters 1364, Max Meters 1885,
Total Climb 799, Total Descent 288
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 20

Bleh! Bleh! Bleh!

This is a very unusual entry, written several days later with a grand total of four words of notes. There aren't even many photos because of rain.

Today was the day the wheels came off - metaphorically only. I could drum up no enthusiasm. At all. A decent breakfast didn't help. An extra cup of coffee didn't help and rain certainly didn't help.

The angry río beside the hotel/restaurant as I was setting off.
632450
After being up at 6:30 it was almost 10am when I finally pushed off into the rain. Rain was the last thing I wanted to see. Up ahead is Piendamo where I can take a figary and do a loop on backroads that will bring me to Popoyán. That figary also leaves me close to San Agustín from where I can pick up the road to Mocoa and the Trampoline. Those roads will not be fun after rain. And there's been a lot of rain lately. There's a hefty amount of climbing too.

Bah! I had zero enthusiasm. I didn't want to stay, I didn't want to go on. On one level I knew the feeling would pass, but in that moment it didn't feel like it.
632452
I set off in heavy traffic and while the rain wasn't heavy it was constant. Large volumes of water are raised by passing traffic which adds to the wetting effect. I adopted the strategy of stopping at every stall along the road where I could have a coffee and some shelter. Slow progress. Especially since I was climbing pretty much the whole time.

One of my coffee stops. Normally a hive of noise and activity it was messy, muddy and barely tolerable
632453
It's not that I don't like rain, or that I'm a huge wuss. The rain here though, even when it's not heavy consists of huge drops that hit and spread. It's quite unpleasant. Add in a head in poor form it's not a good combination.

At least the rain eased off but there was always the threat of more.
I could find no pleasure along the way. My enthusiasm was at zero. This hadn't sprung up overnight, it had been building for days.

Lots of trees. Normally "Wow!", today "Bleh".
632447
For a start, I'm coming to the end of this trip. I knew that would hit me at some point and now it has. The fact that I'll be finishing in Ecuador and not Patagonia as planned feels like a failure of sorts.
Then there's Ecuador. A figary taken really to extend the trip. I'll need about a week to reach Quito (all uphill!). It doesn't feel like I'll be "touring" in Ecuador. No doubt the equator will be one big tourist extravaganza. Why am I going to Ecuador? To add one more country to my list. That's not me.
Finally, there's the road to Ecuador - one that I've already travelled. Pasto to Ipiales I'll be travelling some of the road for the third time! That feels boring. And hard. Some of the accommodation is pretty poor. It's one thing to arrive late, tired, dirty, hungry and thirsty - any port in a storm. It's a different thing to know the dirty, uncomfortable room I'm heading for.

Yeah, I know. Poor me.

Nope! Nada. Zilch.
632449
The thing is, though, that feelings aren't reality. I know that - I just don't feel it. Frustrating!

This trip is nothing like a failure! It wasn't what I had planned but is all the more wonderful for that.
Ecuador I still need to get my head around and I could do with rediscovering my "Touring Head".
And the road to Ipiales? I have alternatives. Not easy alternatives, but they exist. Besides, what kind of a Dumbass on the other side of the world decides that he's seen it all?

This was the driveway up to someone's home. The bushes were full if multicoloured flowers visible from a long way back. My camera doesn't do them justice
632455
I had several long chats with myself along that road. Not a lot changed in terms of my mentality but my destination did. I'd stop in Piendamo for the night. I'd pamper myself, relax and give my head a bit of time to get itself together. I'd still have the figary option in the morning if I felt like it.

Not even this proud beacon of a Palm tree could excite me
632451
The rain that had lightened off returned, preceded by ear shattering thunder. Piendamo was traffic pandemonium and I turned off, pulling in for a coffee at the first opportunity. I spied a modern looking hotel and checked it out. A decent rate and a place for Roccado out of the rain. A temperate shower was better than cold.

Scenery? Bleh!
632448
Stripping off for the shower I noticed an extreme discomfort in my nether regions. I didn't just have a saddle sore, I had a bulbous ball of bile. I hadn't felt a thing all day but now there was an angry boil making its presence felt. I had dug out the only padded shorts I have (cheap Lidl ones) for the long hot days on the flat after not wearing them in ages. That came back to bite me on the butt, literally! I burst the boil, liberally sprayed alcohol (a stinging sensation on the target area, a pleasantly warm sensation elsewhere) and applied some balm.

A tipper truck race!
632454
Then I put on some "normal" clothes and lay down on the bed. It was a couple of hours before I braved the rain for some food - a difficult chore - then back to my room. As luck would have it, Carlito's Way was on TV (in Spanish), one of my favourite movies. Let the pampering commence.

Piendamó. Wet and crazy. I had zero urge to explore. That is unusual.
632446

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 888 Friday, February 18, 2022, Roadside Restaurant/Hotel to Piendamó 27km Total KM 16764
Min meters 1364, Max Meters 1885,
Total Climb 799, Total Descent 288
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 20

Bleh! Bleh! Bleh!

The Towns along the way


I turned off into Tunia, a small town just shy of Piendamo. A run down place with a completely empty Plaza (mind you it was raining). I've never seen an empty Plaza in the daytime before.
632462




This stole my heart a little bit. I am really impressed at the detail that goes into these things, especially in a little backwater that has a main road running past. It speaks to some kind of strength, of commitment
632460





The Plaza and the church. Wonderful moss hanging down to add to the atmosphere
632459







Street art in Tunia. The brightness and colour is a real contrast to the dull, broken village
632458





Piendamó church by night
632457





Victims of the conflict abandoned/forgotten
632456




Piendamó, land of peace. I'm not sure what the exhortation is. I think it's something like join together
632465





The same mural, the same theme
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Another peace mural. This one celebrating "Victims' Day"
632463



Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 

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OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 889 Saturday, February 19, 2022, Piendamó to Popoyán 35km Total KM 16799
Min meters 1755, Max Meters 1923,
Total Climb 489, Total Descent 607
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 30

Ah! Cascadas!

Just one of many cascadas of various sizes and power that lined my route. Seeing my first one was a reminder that not all familiar things are boring. They make wonderful music to encourage me along. A spirit lifter.
632916
If finding dinner last night was a chore, so too was finding breakfast this morning. At least it was dry but a lot of rain had fallen.
I loaded up and set off towards Popoyán. I was feeling a bit better in the head, but far from 100%. I didn't fancy heading into serious climbing and bad roads unless I was feeling ready - and I wasn't. Besides, there was another road I could take closer to Popoyán if things improved as I went along.

I set off with more enthusiasm than yesterday and it being the weekend there was no shortage of roadies out and about. I dislike intensely how closely they pass me.
To calm me down I passed a waterfall cascading down beside me and was reminded that these roads are full of waterfalls. Things are looking up!
It helped that there was a bright, blue sky and a golden sun beaming down on me.
The elevation profile was jagged, filled with short, sharp climbs and descents but the road was reasonable and I had a decent shoulder most of the time.

A decent road, a decent shoulder, not flat and a long, long line of traffic. The story of my day
632913
The only hitch were the Sunday drivers - on a Saturday! There's a definite drop in driving standards on the weekend. Impatience seems to be the dominant vibe with crazy overtakes on blind bends. Whereas normally I'm a respected member of traffic on the road Sundays, and apparently now Saturdays, seem to make me invisible.

Uninspiring landscape....... For Colombia!^_^ How spoilt am I?
632919
I was so distracted by the traffic that it took me a while to realise that this is actually a new road for me! On my way north I had turned off after leaving Popoyán to visit Silvia and had rejoined the road at Piendamó. I chastised myself gently for whinging about covering old ground while not realising I was in virgin territory.

There's always a tree ....... And a pothole!
632912
I was not looking forward to visiting Popoyán again but a lack of accommodation on the other side and the option of still taking that figary route made me decide for another short day. In a new found spirit of re-exploration I decided Popoyán deserved a second chance. I also decided I needed a bit more pampering. I'd enjoyed my movie last night, another one tonight would be good.

Political slogans are common
632914
Seeing a brown, tourist sign for an historical Hacienda (and having a quick look on Google) I decided to turn off before Popoyán for a bit of history. I actually cycled past it and stopped in front of a store a lady came over to ask if I was lost. I told her where I was looking for and pointed back down the road. She assured me it was there so I set off. Closed! It seems that all my cultural excursions on this trip are destined to fail!

This wild explosion of greenery is caused by a small río. It is amazing to me (still!) just how important these little rivers and streams are
632915
My hotel was decent and after a cold shower I popped out to explore. On the edge of the old town, opposite to where I'd stayed previously, direction of exploration was important. Head towards town? Fine. Head away from town? Not so fine. Addicts, beggars, rough sleepers in numbers far out of proportion for the size of the place. Uncomfortable.

The source of the greenery bubbling furiously along
632918
Popoyán didn't change my mind. Still didn't like the place. I got some disappointing food, hit a supermarket and returned to my big bed and big tv.

Another río, wild and gushing. For me, water is a great balm and Colombia provided today.
632917




A sad, lacklustre and frankly depressing "memorial" on the site of the "first" battle for Colombian independence. The contrast with Boyoca (the bridge) was striking.
632911






The closed, Colonial era Hacienda. I had hoped to visit and learn a bit about plantation (for that is what it was) life in Colombia. Apparently, the last surviving member of the original family still lived here. But the gates were closed and signs up screamed "Private Property" and "No Trespassing".

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See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
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OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 889 Saturday, February 19, 2022, Popoyán

A bright and cheerful fruit stand
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There's always a tree!
632921





An elegant church and a terrifying sky!
632923






A real town of contrasts. There are elegant buildings like this and entire blocks in ruins
632924





The Plaza. A huge, stetile square containing a smaller square of green life. Definitely one of the most elegant and striking Plazas I have visited and yet one of the coldest, most sterile. At least I found a coffee vendor this time!
632925







One side of the Plaza. The graffiti had been removed from the walls this time. Other "White cities" are warm, inviting, interesting and draw me in. Something here repels me.
632927






Another elegant church
632928






I find no warmth here and the graffiti is angry and intimidating.
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It cleans up well but ....... There's something that refuses to let me settle. That's unusual for me
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A couple of smaller, simpler churches
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See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...g&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
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OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 890 Sunday, February 20, 2022, Popoyán to Rosas 41km Total KM 16840
Min meters 1405, Max Meters 1958,
Total Climb 926, Total Descent 942
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 24


The best laid plans of mice and men.....

I was asleep early and awake late. I had a shower to shake off the cobwebs, opted for a simple breakfast in the hotel because there were few enough places close to the hotel, got organised and my bags down to the parking garage. Except Roccado wasn't where I had left him. Someone had dragged (and yes, that's the right word) him to the far end. The fact that a cable lock was running through the saddle and back wheel didn't stop them, the front brake being locked didn't either. I was furious! The lock had been wrapped around the cassette as tightly as it could go and all four brake blocks had come out of alignment. I vented my anger with reception and set about checking everything and redoing the brakes. It took at least 10 minutes just to extricate the lock. They had also knackered my mirror that I had picked up at the Casa de Ciclistas.

Leaving Popoyán. Hardly a nomination for the greatest road. With less loony drivers it would have been more comfortable
632936
Fuming and unable to wait to get the hell out of town I rolled away. Out of Popoyán I had no shoulder and being a Sunday there was crazy traffic and crazy drivers. I knew this road south to Pasto dropped its shoulder at some point and Murphy's Law kicked in as no shoulder appeared on the far side of town. And did I mention the rain?

In fairness without traffic it was pretty.
632934
It was very unpleasant cycling and a couple of days ago would have had me very down but a couple of days of pampering had begun to screw my touring head on better so I determined to make the most of it. There were lots of places to stop for a coffee so I did. Often. In one little shack a young woman gave me the most wonderful smile. On a dark, dreary, wet and miserable day it was better than the sun. I'll take my sustenance anywhere I can get it.

As the road weaved around the rain came and went.
632932
Timbio was the first town and after a coffee and a pastry I set off into lighter traffic. The rain lightened too, then finally stopped. Interestingly, after yesterday being chock a block with cyclists today there were only a handful. I wasn't the only cyclist apparently to not enjoy this stretch. In actual fact the traffic wasn't so much lighter as being backed up somewhere - in both directions. This meant relative calm for long stretches thaen maybe 50-60 vehicles pssing in convoy. With crazy overtaking manoeuvres going in I'd pull in to let the crazy past. I was in no rush. Rosas was down the road (or rather up a big hill) but El Bordo was my destination. I remembered well the luxurious hotel with the good rate! Having lost so much time El Bordo was looking unlikely,though. I wasn't going to push myself - today had one priority - stay safe.

My views were limited
632939
The road was very up and down - steep both ways - with lots of twists and turns. The surface was unreliable making descents tricky - especially with long lines of impatient traffic in either direction. Being a Sunday my biggest scares came from oncoming traffic doing dumb overtaking manoeuvres.

The ríos were angry and in a rush
632935
To get to Rosas I had to climb 400 meters and in desperate need of caffeine pulled in to a stand on the side of the road. I asked for coffee but was told they had none. I was gutted! Having a smoke the lady emerged from her own house at the back of the stand with a cup if coffee! My heroine! When I went to leave I could see no sign of her but left 3k beside the cup. She swiftly came after me to tell me it was too much. I told her it was worth it to me that I really needed my coffee. We argued good naturedly about it and I set off in a much more optimistic state of mind.

Easy to understand why the place is so green!
632937
The 400 meter climb went by quite well and at the top I stopped and did a quick calculation. If I pushed it I could make El Bordo before dark. It was lumpy but doable, I reckoned. 45km in two hours, maybe a bit more daylight. Besides, Rosas was small, the scene of my dog bite and I was damned if I was going back to that dingy hotel. I had seen another in the town. That couldn't be worse. But El Bordo it was!

One picture to sum up the day. Crazy drivers on unreliable roads
632933
A couple of things happened on the descent. The first was that the area at the back of my knee started to throb - that's where the dog bit me! I haven't noticed anything there in weeks and now it's throbbing! Isn't the mind an amazing thing?
The second is that big rain drops started to fall.
Oh! Two dogs gave chase and I'm pretty sure one of them was the biter!

A bit of wild......
632938

On that descent to the town I changed my mind, pulled off into the village and wandered around trying to remember where I saw the little hotel. I found it - not difficult in a small town - and checked in. Retrieving the bike the back wheel was flat as the proverbial! It seems like I had made the right decision! As if to confirm, it rained all night.

Rosas. Check out the road!
632930




Street art from Rosas

632931


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...g&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
OP
OP
HobbesOnTour
Location
España
Day 891 Monday, February 21, 2022, Rosas to El Bordo 42km Total KM 16882
Min meters 962, Max Meters 1729,
Total Climb 478, Total Descent 1164
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 31
Much better!! Crap road!

Rules? What rules???

Trees!
632940

I had a leisurely breakfast before leaving Rosas. I was in no rush. El Bordo was my short goal for the day. After El Bordo the road will split - the old and the new Pan-American - and I have to make up my mind which to do. The new I did on the way north. The old is longer, steeper and less well serviced. I had originally planned to take it north but after the tunnel fiasco outside of Pasto the advice of the pickup driver was to take the new one. So I did.

Setting off. There's nothing like a bit of mountain hugging clouds for some atmosphere
632941
It may have been a short day but it was a good day.
First of all I had to chastise myself for wanting to push on last night. Faced with the wonderful views on offer today I'd have missed so much yesterday, ignoring the puncture and the rain.

When there was no traffic it was a pretty good road
632949
Speaking of the puncture ...... It was my own fault. The great bike adventurer can't fix a puncture properly! Somehow I hadn't glued the patch on properly and the air was leaking out. Here's a hint - don't try to remove the patch! I tried, but I'd done a great job of gluing the rest of the patch so all I did was rip a big hole in the tube!^_^

Then the sun came out to play.....
632945
The day started with a descent on relatively quiet roads. The roadworks were still taking place in Rosas and further south there were more. That meant traffic in big batches and then nada. Bliss!
To make things better low clouds hugged the mountains nearby - that's how I like to start the day!

Nature was everywhere.....
632947
The road was pretty good except for when it wasn't and when it wasn't it was lethal. In no rush I could take my time. So I did. At times it seemed like it was made out of marla (that's Irish, folks) or plasticine or playdough. Subsidence created smooth "kerbs" along the side of the road like a heavy truck had driven down when the road was still warm, soft and new.

The road was ..... Unreliable^_^
632946
The sun quickly came out and the sky punctured holes in the clouds then made them bigger and bigger. It got warm but that was fine by me - better than the rain.
The sun made magic out of one scene. On one bushy tree to the left and below the surface of the road I spied a whole bunch of colourful butteflies flitting around. The oranges, yellows and reds of their wings, not to mention the intricate designs within them glittered snd sparkled in the light. Another special scene. Unphotographable. Sorry!

There's two waterfalls up there and a line of traffic down here
632944
There's not many places to stop along the way. That's one of the negative impacts of no shoulder. At least with the gaps between batches of traffic I could be comfortable stopped on the side of the road.

Vote Bike Touring! And the Rosas sign heading south
632948
It won't go down as the longest or greatest day on a bike but it was just what the doctor ordered. I left in good form, I enjoyed the day and I arrived in good form.

Waterfalls were my soundtrack of the day
632950
El Bordo hadn't changed much. I stopped off at the welder to show him his work was holding up well but he wasn't there and the other guy was busy. I was remembered at the hotel and I had a lazy, pleasant evening. I looked in detail at the options ahead of me and had an early night.

There's always a bit of colour in Colombia
632943

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
 
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