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IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
In which case you might find something of interest, or at least recognisable, in forthcoming posts.
The Netherlands - a ten day, fixed base 'tour' from The Hague
- Thread starter IaninSheffield
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OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
😱
Indeed I did see them. Useful also for the guy I saw on a 'tall' bike one day.
Ah, sadly I didn't spot that as the skyscrapers were behind me as I cycled. However, I was mightily impressed with the architecture overall, both ancient and modern.
HobbesOnTour
Guru
- Location
- España
In fairness to Rotterdam, there's very little truly ancient left after the war. The old port is delightful - on a quiet day - and most of the older buildings we see along the river are recreations, I believe, just as many cities in Germany were painstakingly rebuilt.
My first visit to Rotterdam was in '99 and I found it one of the most unfriendly and slightly menacing places I'd visited at that point. Either it, or myself, has undergone a big change since, but it's a delightful place and undoubtedly a big city it seems very liveable. Again, like Amsterdam, there are places half an hour from the city that are the polar opposite of what I expected. Little canals, fields, picturesque villages.
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IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
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IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 4, Delft and Zoetermeer
24th Sept., 34 miles
It transpired that the 'music' last night was coming from somewhere off site, a gig of some kind that went on until I guess around midnight (it was still thump thumping when I last checked my watch around a quarter to). I guess someone was having a great time at the expense of my misery, and doubtless most of the other folks on the site. I'm still struggling to get to sleep, but when I finally dropped fully off around 3am I stayed under until almost nine; that's something I never do at home. With the changeover to different accommodation to undertake today I decided on a shorter ride - over to Delft and Zoetermeer - then set about packing my bags. I was hoping to be allowed to leave them in Reception rather than to have to lug them around but when I checked in my key and asked about the bags, I was told my new accommodation was free and I could use that. Woohoo!
Since it was set to be a dry, sunny day, before setting off I did some washing and hung it up to dry. That was a real bonus. By eleven I was settled in and ready to strike out for the day.
Rowers on the Delfste Vliet
Almost all the way to Delft I rarely left an urban setting but fortunately much of it was alongside the Delfste Vliet, a wide waterway which this morning, I guess because it was Sunday, was frequented by teams of rowers. Singles, doubles and quads, all accompanied by their cycling, landborn coach yelling out what sounded like encouragement; unfortunately my Dutch isn't yet good enough to tell, as I was later reminded!
Canalside in Delft
The waterways kept me company into the centre of Delft but gradually became smaller in scale and more intimate. Some of the streets seemed to be residential, the property occupants being required to park their cars very close to the water's edge. A brief moment's inattention whilst manoeuvring into position would result in an expensive watery outcome I suspect. After crossing one of the ubiquitous dainty bridges and turning a corner, I arrived in the Grote Market dominated at one end by the Nieuwe Kerk and at the opposite by Delft Stadhuis.
Stadthuis, Delft
The 'square' was thronged with tourists and local folks out for a Sunday get together, perhaps after attending church. In a nearby, perhaps less expensive and certainly less busy square I found a table outside a restaurant for lunch. The young girl attending table caught me a little unawares; I'd barely opened the menu. However, in faltering but partially intelligible Dutch I ordered a Delfste koffie and a ham en kaas tosti. The girl complimented me on my Dutch, even managing to mask any hint of sarcasm! But I did get what I ordered, the Delfste koffie served in a tall, clear glass with foamy cream topped off with caramel sauce. Very nice.
Ooostpoort, Delft
Leaving Delft past the Oostport I was soon out in partly agricultural, partly parkland on my way to Zoetermeer. Although the cyclepath clearly connected the two towns, today it appeared to be used more as a recreational facility. There were the (very) young and (very old), fit racing snakes and slow pootlers, single riders, occasional in-line and side-by-side tandemers, in-line roller skaters, and even one uni-cyclist! Sure the weather was amazing, but it was wonderfully unexpected to see everyone out and about enjoying the outdoors.
Broekwegwetering residential development, Zoetermeer
Approaching Zoetermeer I got tangled up with the later finishers of a running road race which I later learned was a multi-distance rvemt, the Geuzenloop Zoetermeer. As I said in a previous post, the Dutch do seem to love their sports. Leaving the town involved a circuit of the Zoetermeerse Plas, a huge lake and nature area to the North which again seemed to be another location attracting folks to the outdoors. On the way home I diverted by the Aldi I'd used before and picked up some fixings for tonight's and tomorrow's meals. I did consider buying a beer or two but didn't have the carrying capacity; maybe tomorrow.
On the way back to base there seemed to be hordes of people congregating at a nearby outdoors venue at which I could hear a very loud tannoy announcing or commentating on some kind of race. Back on site and as I made my way to my pitch, through the boundary fence I could see competitive horse trotting. Checking up later I discovered that the campsite is adjacent to Renbaan Duindigt, a local racecourse which was holding a race meeting weekend. The races and the excessively loud announcing ended around tea time, but then around 7pm, just like last night, the thump thump music started again. Sighs! At least now I know what the source is.
24th Sept., 34 miles
It transpired that the 'music' last night was coming from somewhere off site, a gig of some kind that went on until I guess around midnight (it was still thump thumping when I last checked my watch around a quarter to). I guess someone was having a great time at the expense of my misery, and doubtless most of the other folks on the site. I'm still struggling to get to sleep, but when I finally dropped fully off around 3am I stayed under until almost nine; that's something I never do at home. With the changeover to different accommodation to undertake today I decided on a shorter ride - over to Delft and Zoetermeer - then set about packing my bags. I was hoping to be allowed to leave them in Reception rather than to have to lug them around but when I checked in my key and asked about the bags, I was told my new accommodation was free and I could use that. Woohoo!
Since it was set to be a dry, sunny day, before setting off I did some washing and hung it up to dry. That was a real bonus. By eleven I was settled in and ready to strike out for the day.
Rowers on the Delfste Vliet
Almost all the way to Delft I rarely left an urban setting but fortunately much of it was alongside the Delfste Vliet, a wide waterway which this morning, I guess because it was Sunday, was frequented by teams of rowers. Singles, doubles and quads, all accompanied by their cycling, landborn coach yelling out what sounded like encouragement; unfortunately my Dutch isn't yet good enough to tell, as I was later reminded!
Canalside in Delft
The waterways kept me company into the centre of Delft but gradually became smaller in scale and more intimate. Some of the streets seemed to be residential, the property occupants being required to park their cars very close to the water's edge. A brief moment's inattention whilst manoeuvring into position would result in an expensive watery outcome I suspect. After crossing one of the ubiquitous dainty bridges and turning a corner, I arrived in the Grote Market dominated at one end by the Nieuwe Kerk and at the opposite by Delft Stadhuis.
Stadthuis, Delft
The 'square' was thronged with tourists and local folks out for a Sunday get together, perhaps after attending church. In a nearby, perhaps less expensive and certainly less busy square I found a table outside a restaurant for lunch. The young girl attending table caught me a little unawares; I'd barely opened the menu. However, in faltering but partially intelligible Dutch I ordered a Delfste koffie and a ham en kaas tosti. The girl complimented me on my Dutch, even managing to mask any hint of sarcasm! But I did get what I ordered, the Delfste koffie served in a tall, clear glass with foamy cream topped off with caramel sauce. Very nice.
Ooostpoort, Delft
Leaving Delft past the Oostport I was soon out in partly agricultural, partly parkland on my way to Zoetermeer. Although the cyclepath clearly connected the two towns, today it appeared to be used more as a recreational facility. There were the (very) young and (very old), fit racing snakes and slow pootlers, single riders, occasional in-line and side-by-side tandemers, in-line roller skaters, and even one uni-cyclist! Sure the weather was amazing, but it was wonderfully unexpected to see everyone out and about enjoying the outdoors.
Broekwegwetering residential development, Zoetermeer
Approaching Zoetermeer I got tangled up with the later finishers of a running road race which I later learned was a multi-distance rvemt, the Geuzenloop Zoetermeer. As I said in a previous post, the Dutch do seem to love their sports. Leaving the town involved a circuit of the Zoetermeerse Plas, a huge lake and nature area to the North which again seemed to be another location attracting folks to the outdoors. On the way home I diverted by the Aldi I'd used before and picked up some fixings for tonight's and tomorrow's meals. I did consider buying a beer or two but didn't have the carrying capacity; maybe tomorrow.
On the way back to base there seemed to be hordes of people congregating at a nearby outdoors venue at which I could hear a very loud tannoy announcing or commentating on some kind of race. Back on site and as I made my way to my pitch, through the boundary fence I could see competitive horse trotting. Checking up later I discovered that the campsite is adjacent to Renbaan Duindigt, a local racecourse which was holding a race meeting weekend. The races and the excessively loud announcing ended around tea time, but then around 7pm, just like last night, the thump thump music started again. Sighs! At least now I know what the source is.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 5, Scheveningen and Noordwijk
25th Sept., 42 miles
My accommodation for the remainder of the tripAt last, an almost solid night's sleep. Maybe because I'm now settled into my final accommodation? Or perhaps a more comfortable pillow? Who knows, but at least it meant I rose at a normal(ish) time. Having rechecked the forecast, all was still in order with sunny intervals amongst cloudy skies, boosted along by a modest south-westerly. A trip along the coast seemed like a good plan.
Scheveningen seafront, sculpture and pier in the background
In some senses Scheveningen is a seaside resort and a port, but if that conjures a certain picture for you - perhaps Great Yarmouth or Bridlington? - you'd be very far from the truth. Scheveningen is joined at the hip to Den Haag, their suburbs intermingled with one another. As I approached the town from Duinhorst the scale and grandeur of many of the properties distributed loosely along the tree-lined backstreets evoked a distinct sense of wealth.
Scheveningen tweede haven (second harbour)
The harbour did indeed have a few fishing boats, but not the rusty kind found trying to scrape a living on the British coast of the North Sea. Although the sailing and pleasure craft weren't aspiring to super yacht status, they were all in good order and immaculately kept. The promenade, pier and seafront businesses weren't mere winkle or cockle stalls and clearly catered for folks prepared to splash a bit of cash … or plastic … or NFC. This was somewhere for the well-to-do of the capital to pop over for the weekend, or evening. Only a tram or bike ride away.
The grand Scheveningen Kurhaus on the seafront
Leaving the town northwards I was soon once more amongst the dunes pedalling along another superbly maintained bike path with equally impressive walking and riding paths running nearby. Whilst the view tended to be similar most of the way, at least the path(s) curved back and forth and up and down to provide variety. The vegetation differed too; sometimes dunes held together by marram, sometimes woodland, sometimes scrubland, but clearly cared for. There was no litter, no yobs haring around on motorbikes, and in fact to protect the environment, there were often signs forbidding walking on the dunes.
Just one random cyclist from the many I saw amongst the dunes
Katwijck aan Zee was the next seaside settlement, though distinctly low key and somewhat more residential than boisterous. Around five more miles of dunes brought me to my turning point of the AtlantikWall Museum in Noordwijk. I knew this wasn't the one day in the week it's open, though I would have been interested to explore these restored subterranean coastal defensive structures.
Time to cut inland but as I passed through town, I stopped to try an Albert Heijn supermarket and pick up some lunch. It's a large chain somewhat like Morrison's, so a little more upmarket than the Aldi I've used so far. I settled on a couple of tasty savoury pastries, an apple, and a chilled coffee which I enjoyed sitting on a bench after leaving town.
Making my way southwards and obeying the Garmin as I usually do, I turned a corner and followed the cyclist in front onto a tiny little chain driven ferry. Hadn't expected that, but had luckily brought enough cash to cover the 70c fare. The entire trip lasted less than a minute, but the experience was well worth the minimal cost. What an unexpected treat. What was less of a treat was the unforecasted rain shower which briefly made an appearance; enough to require the waterproof to be used once more, but neither heavy enough nor long enough to be too unpleasant.
Rather than follow my planned route back to base, given how different the offering from Albert Heijn seemed to be, I decided to call at another branch a little nearer to base and pick up a few beers. The Westfield Mall where the supermarket was located was in many ways no different to other outlets of this type, and yet it was still impressive. After all, how many Malls have a tram line almost running through them? (OK, so Meadowhall is served by trams, but you've quite a hike from the terminus into the Mall). Grimbergens bought, it was time to head back home as the evening sun once more made a welcome appearance.
25th Sept., 42 miles
My accommodation for the remainder of the trip
Scheveningen seafront, sculpture and pier in the background
In some senses Scheveningen is a seaside resort and a port, but if that conjures a certain picture for you - perhaps Great Yarmouth or Bridlington? - you'd be very far from the truth. Scheveningen is joined at the hip to Den Haag, their suburbs intermingled with one another. As I approached the town from Duinhorst the scale and grandeur of many of the properties distributed loosely along the tree-lined backstreets evoked a distinct sense of wealth.
Scheveningen tweede haven (second harbour)
The harbour did indeed have a few fishing boats, but not the rusty kind found trying to scrape a living on the British coast of the North Sea. Although the sailing and pleasure craft weren't aspiring to super yacht status, they were all in good order and immaculately kept. The promenade, pier and seafront businesses weren't mere winkle or cockle stalls and clearly catered for folks prepared to splash a bit of cash … or plastic … or NFC. This was somewhere for the well-to-do of the capital to pop over for the weekend, or evening. Only a tram or bike ride away.
The grand Scheveningen Kurhaus on the seafront
Leaving the town northwards I was soon once more amongst the dunes pedalling along another superbly maintained bike path with equally impressive walking and riding paths running nearby. Whilst the view tended to be similar most of the way, at least the path(s) curved back and forth and up and down to provide variety. The vegetation differed too; sometimes dunes held together by marram, sometimes woodland, sometimes scrubland, but clearly cared for. There was no litter, no yobs haring around on motorbikes, and in fact to protect the environment, there were often signs forbidding walking on the dunes.
Just one random cyclist from the many I saw amongst the dunes
Katwijck aan Zee was the next seaside settlement, though distinctly low key and somewhat more residential than boisterous. Around five more miles of dunes brought me to my turning point of the AtlantikWall Museum in Noordwijk. I knew this wasn't the one day in the week it's open, though I would have been interested to explore these restored subterranean coastal defensive structures.
Time to cut inland but as I passed through town, I stopped to try an Albert Heijn supermarket and pick up some lunch. It's a large chain somewhat like Morrison's, so a little more upmarket than the Aldi I've used so far. I settled on a couple of tasty savoury pastries, an apple, and a chilled coffee which I enjoyed sitting on a bench after leaving town.
Making my way southwards and obeying the Garmin as I usually do, I turned a corner and followed the cyclist in front onto a tiny little chain driven ferry. Hadn't expected that, but had luckily brought enough cash to cover the 70c fare. The entire trip lasted less than a minute, but the experience was well worth the minimal cost. What an unexpected treat. What was less of a treat was the unforecasted rain shower which briefly made an appearance; enough to require the waterproof to be used once more, but neither heavy enough nor long enough to be too unpleasant.
Rather than follow my planned route back to base, given how different the offering from Albert Heijn seemed to be, I decided to call at another branch a little nearer to base and pick up a few beers. The Westfield Mall where the supermarket was located was in many ways no different to other outlets of this type, and yet it was still impressive. After all, how many Malls have a tram line almost running through them? (OK, so Meadowhall is served by trams, but you've quite a hike from the terminus into the Mall). Grimbergens bought, it was time to head back home as the evening sun once more made a welcome appearance.
grldtnr
Senior Member
I love cycling in the Netherlands,, haven't been for a few years, had intended to go this year, unfortunately I broke my hand, and had to give it a miss.
Tent camping is great , if you pick mini-camping, there's also the 'Groen' book camping mostly farm sites ,but you have to be a member.
Last time I was over, I was with friends, and we used the 'Vreinden ops de fiets' the Dutch version of 'warm showers', essentially couch surfing, staying with families who let rooms to travellers, normally for cyclists, again its membership only, you get given a handbook and phone ahead to book, our experience was it mainly offered by older mature Dutch couples, one stay was a little sad as the lady had recently lost her husband, but she said she enjoyed the company of her guests as she was lonely after her loss, she was a very warm friendly person, and couldn't been more welcoming and helpful.
The Netherlands, is a very clean and well kept country, I guess the Dutch are very house proud, possibly because they have worked very hard to prevent it from flooding.
It is a utopia, one place where I would like to emigrate too, if I had the chance, alack it's too late now .
Tent camping is great , if you pick mini-camping, there's also the 'Groen' book camping mostly farm sites ,but you have to be a member.
Last time I was over, I was with friends, and we used the 'Vreinden ops de fiets' the Dutch version of 'warm showers', essentially couch surfing, staying with families who let rooms to travellers, normally for cyclists, again its membership only, you get given a handbook and phone ahead to book, our experience was it mainly offered by older mature Dutch couples, one stay was a little sad as the lady had recently lost her husband, but she said she enjoyed the company of her guests as she was lonely after her loss, she was a very warm friendly person, and couldn't been more welcoming and helpful.
The Netherlands, is a very clean and well kept country, I guess the Dutch are very house proud, possibly because they have worked very hard to prevent it from flooding.
It is a utopia, one place where I would like to emigrate too, if I had the chance, alack it's too late now .
HobbesOnTour
Guru
- Location
- España
Really enjoying this! Thanks for sharing.
)
I've seen the "ferrypeople" good-naturedly attempting to charge people for their dogs as passengers. In fairness, one chap had three dogs with him!
As for the noise....... that's something to adapt to, or else stay well out in the country - and even that is no guarantee. There's a hell of a lot of people in a teeny tiny space. It was always amazing to me that no matter where I went and at what time there was always someone else about.
If you were in Belgium it would be the sound of "boy racers" keeping you awake.
Looking forward to the next installment!
I'm told that in the war years, suspect people were coaxed into pronouncing "Scheveningen" to establish their bona fides. Apparently, even Germans struggle to pronounce it properly. (Of course, that just may have been people being forgiving, kind and supportive as I mangled and mispronounced their language
)Ah yes! Always carry some coin! On a long, meandering, freestyle (ie no planning) ride after work I hit a "surprise" ferry on my way home as the skies turned dark, angry and wet. No money, but thankfully two full real panniers (for practice), the chap on the ferry took pity on my plight, told me not to worry about the money and practised his English on the hapless, Irish tourist for the value instead.
I've seen the "ferrypeople" good-naturedly attempting to charge people for their dogs as passengers. In fairness, one chap had three dogs with him!
As for the noise....... that's something to adapt to, or else stay well out in the country - and even that is no guarantee. There's a hell of a lot of people in a teeny tiny space. It was always amazing to me that no matter where I went and at what time there was always someone else about.
If you were in Belgium it would be the sound of "boy racers" keeping you awake.
Looking forward to the next installment!
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 6, Leiden and Alphen
26th Sept., 46 miles
Having decided I'd head up to Leiden today, I first had to rethink the route leaving the site. I should have headed northeast on the path I came in by on my arrival, however, the roadworks have become even more extensive so an alternative needed to be considered. A quick perusal of cycle.travel showed LF4 or ‘Lange Fietsen’ route 4 was fairly close by and would initially take me in the right general direction.
It took a while to pick my intended route but that didn't matter one jot since the first few miles were once more through superb woodlands - off road although certainly not off the beaten track. Even though it felt miles from anywhere, there were always plenty of other folks out on their bikes or walking their dogs. Beyond the woods but still amongst the trees here was another area of opulent wealth, perhaps even more so than Scheveningen yesterday; the houses were almost palatial.
Kasteel de Wittenburg (somewhere in there!)
Although the approach to Leiden was semi-industrial, I knew this university town had much more to offer, but hadn't appreciated how generous it would be. What a stunning place! Another Dutch city with beautiful canals and waterways forming its arteries, narrow, cobbled streets running alongside. Just the place for a stroll in such pleasant, almost summer-like weather. If you were looking for a city for a weekend break, equally as pretty as Delft, slightly bigger but still walkable, Leiden could be just the place.
Waterways in Leiden
Zijpoort, Leiden
Koombrug, Leiden
I headed eastwards from town running alongside a wide waterway, the Oude Rijn, not to be conflated with the Rhine however, this river gives Alphen aan den Rijn part of its name. When planning this route, the road layout of Alphen seemed somewhat different to other places I'd visited so far - not a grid layout as such, but definitely designed. After passing through the light industrial outskirts the centre of town had a 'new town' sort of vibe - very little property near the town centre seemed to be older than twenty or so years.
I grabbed some lunch courtesy of Aldi and found a seat in a park to tarry a while. Suitably refreshed, I had a short stint through a residential suburb, again seemingly a recent development - very quiet and orderly - then found myself in countryside proper for the first time. This was agricultural land, similar to south Lincolnshire but at the same time very different. Little of the land through which I passed was given over to arable; mostly it seemed to be pasture with a few cattle on some of the long strips (polders?) separated by narrow drainage channels. The ground was lush and clearly fertile, yet with the need to keep water somewhat at bay, it didn't appear possible to give over huge acreages to crops that might need large-scale harvesting.
Perhaps because I only spent a dozen or so miles traversing the area, I didn't get the sense of sameness that tests my patience in Lincolnshire. The cycleways also cut back and forth, around corners and over small bridges, continually obliged to obey the strictures forced upon them by the landscape. It made for variety.
I adjusted my inbound route to drop by the mall to pick up an evening meal and once more wander the aisles of the supermarket. I like that different foodstuffs are available; something new to try always appeals. I'm also surprised by how much more expensive the basics seem to be: cereal, coffee, milk, bread, salads, even cheese. I've also noticed how much more expensive fuel is than back home. Where currently I'd be paying around £1.55 for a litre of diesel, over here it's almost €2. I hadn't appreciated that the rates of taxation on bought products over here might be so much higher. Maybe income tax is lower?
Back on site I treated myself to a hot shower. Actually I'd picked up a 50c coin at some point so had the wherewithal to exchange it for a token. As it's my birthday today I figured I deserved it. Couldn't ever have imagined spending my 'retirement' birthday on a cycling trip in the Netherlands. As for splashing out on an expensive meal? Well I figure sitting out on my little veranda in the balmy evening sunshine, enjoying a delicious salad accompanied by a Grimbergen Dubble is treat aplenty.
26th Sept., 46 miles
Having decided I'd head up to Leiden today, I first had to rethink the route leaving the site. I should have headed northeast on the path I came in by on my arrival, however, the roadworks have become even more extensive so an alternative needed to be considered. A quick perusal of cycle.travel showed LF4 or ‘Lange Fietsen’ route 4 was fairly close by and would initially take me in the right general direction.
It took a while to pick my intended route but that didn't matter one jot since the first few miles were once more through superb woodlands - off road although certainly not off the beaten track. Even though it felt miles from anywhere, there were always plenty of other folks out on their bikes or walking their dogs. Beyond the woods but still amongst the trees here was another area of opulent wealth, perhaps even more so than Scheveningen yesterday; the houses were almost palatial.
Kasteel de Wittenburg (somewhere in there!)
Although the approach to Leiden was semi-industrial, I knew this university town had much more to offer, but hadn't appreciated how generous it would be. What a stunning place! Another Dutch city with beautiful canals and waterways forming its arteries, narrow, cobbled streets running alongside. Just the place for a stroll in such pleasant, almost summer-like weather. If you were looking for a city for a weekend break, equally as pretty as Delft, slightly bigger but still walkable, Leiden could be just the place.
Waterways in Leiden
Zijpoort, Leiden
Koombrug, Leiden
I headed eastwards from town running alongside a wide waterway, the Oude Rijn, not to be conflated with the Rhine however, this river gives Alphen aan den Rijn part of its name. When planning this route, the road layout of Alphen seemed somewhat different to other places I'd visited so far - not a grid layout as such, but definitely designed. After passing through the light industrial outskirts the centre of town had a 'new town' sort of vibe - very little property near the town centre seemed to be older than twenty or so years.
I grabbed some lunch courtesy of Aldi and found a seat in a park to tarry a while. Suitably refreshed, I had a short stint through a residential suburb, again seemingly a recent development - very quiet and orderly - then found myself in countryside proper for the first time. This was agricultural land, similar to south Lincolnshire but at the same time very different. Little of the land through which I passed was given over to arable; mostly it seemed to be pasture with a few cattle on some of the long strips (polders?) separated by narrow drainage channels. The ground was lush and clearly fertile, yet with the need to keep water somewhat at bay, it didn't appear possible to give over huge acreages to crops that might need large-scale harvesting.
Perhaps because I only spent a dozen or so miles traversing the area, I didn't get the sense of sameness that tests my patience in Lincolnshire. The cycleways also cut back and forth, around corners and over small bridges, continually obliged to obey the strictures forced upon them by the landscape. It made for variety.
I adjusted my inbound route to drop by the mall to pick up an evening meal and once more wander the aisles of the supermarket. I like that different foodstuffs are available; something new to try always appeals. I'm also surprised by how much more expensive the basics seem to be: cereal, coffee, milk, bread, salads, even cheese. I've also noticed how much more expensive fuel is than back home. Where currently I'd be paying around £1.55 for a litre of diesel, over here it's almost €2. I hadn't appreciated that the rates of taxation on bought products over here might be so much higher. Maybe income tax is lower?
Back on site I treated myself to a hot shower. Actually I'd picked up a 50c coin at some point so had the wherewithal to exchange it for a token. As it's my birthday today I figured I deserved it. Couldn't ever have imagined spending my 'retirement' birthday on a cycling trip in the Netherlands. As for splashing out on an expensive meal? Well I figure sitting out on my little veranda in the balmy evening sunshine, enjoying a delicious salad accompanied by a Grimbergen Dubble is treat aplenty.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 7, RailRide Haarlem
27th Sept., 41 miles
Given how much I enjoy my RailRides, it was perhaps inevitable I'd add one to my planned rides for this trip. I toyed briefly with heading up to Amsterdam, but I've been there before, albeit briefly, so instead chose a neighbouring city, Haarlem. It has a significant history, not least through ancestor emigrants giving its name to a district in New York.
Den Haag Centraal Station
I first headed into the city and Den Haag Central transport hub where trains, trams and buses can be caught to a variety of destinations, both near and far. Buying a ticket from a machine is simple, if not expensive. The machine offers instructions in both Dutch and English, dispensing both the travel ticket for me - €9.80, not too bad I guess for a 45 minute journey - and the bike ticket at €7.50. Nearly as much for the bike as for me, although it's for a day's unlimited travel so if you were making a return journey across country, perhaps that wouldn't be too bad. On top of that though, there’s also €1 charge for each ticket. There are of course travel cards which negate the need for that.
The train departed on time, was roomy and comfortable, and stuck to its schedule all the way to Haarlem. Having said how 'clean' I've found the Netherlands on the whole, one area where they do seem to have an even bigger problem than us is in trackside graffiti; near centres of population there can be miles of the stuff!
Haarlem station has an old world charm that the modern hub in Den Haag lacks. Having been around for nearly two hundred years that's to be expected of course. It's only a short walk or bike ride to the city centre and main square dominated by another of the vast, robust churches that are so common in Dutch cities and towns. Haarlem, like the other places I've visited has its own share of canals, waterways and narrow cobbled streets, but unlike Delft or Leiden, I wasn't feeling the love. I'm not sure why; maybe I felt it lacked the chocolate-boxy charm of those other places or maybe I'm doing it a disservice. As a consequence I didn't linger and was happy to follow the river and shortly be out in the countryside.
Waterways in Haarlem
For the first half of the journey it seemed to be back and forth between town and country, yet with the cyclepath network tending to thread its way through green spaces, it never felt oppressively busy in the way that towns back home often do. In Bornholm I picked up lunch to enjoy later on a bench back out in the country. There was one lengthy stretch which ran parallel to a motorway and underneath a set of high voltage wires way above. It was a largely straight route and sounds awful, yet the cyclepath was wonderfully smooth, wove back and forth to avoid the monotony, and was amongst seemingly wild heathland.
On returning once more to a town, this time Lisse, as I pedalled down the main street I could see signs and barriers indicating the road ahead was closed. On nearing the barriers it was obvious the whole road had been taken over by a funfair. After negotiating a parallel route down a shopping precinct for some while and trying in vain to return to my original route, it was clear just how extensive this funfair was. The Dutch certainly don't do entertainment by halves!
Tulips from Amsterdam? Nah, Lisse.
From Lisse the homeward leg once more alternated between town and country: Oegstgeest, the edge of Leiden, then Wassenaar. The landscape may not have the topographical variety of back home, but that certainly doesn't make it uninteresting. Once more it was the time of day when young people were leaving school or college for home and I'd often end up absorbed amongst a gaggle. For so many, their way of life on the bike begins early. The bike isn't a 'cool' possession to be paraded in front of friends, it's simply an everyday tool that does a job, like a pencil or paintbrush.
The final stretch picked up the reverse of the outbound leg I took the other day, back along 'mansion' alley. Some of the properties were 'Te koop' (for sale) and when I later checked, there was very little under €3M and plenty well above!
Back on site I managed to exchange some of the shrapnel I've gathered for the 50c coins I can use for hot shower tokens so no more chilly ones for the remainder of the trip. Another pleasant evening typing this up on the 'veranda'. Is it usual to be able to comfortably sit outside in September or have I dropped incredibly lucky?
27th Sept., 41 miles
Given how much I enjoy my RailRides, it was perhaps inevitable I'd add one to my planned rides for this trip. I toyed briefly with heading up to Amsterdam, but I've been there before, albeit briefly, so instead chose a neighbouring city, Haarlem. It has a significant history, not least through ancestor emigrants giving its name to a district in New York.
Den Haag Centraal Station
I first headed into the city and Den Haag Central transport hub where trains, trams and buses can be caught to a variety of destinations, both near and far. Buying a ticket from a machine is simple, if not expensive. The machine offers instructions in both Dutch and English, dispensing both the travel ticket for me - €9.80, not too bad I guess for a 45 minute journey - and the bike ticket at €7.50. Nearly as much for the bike as for me, although it's for a day's unlimited travel so if you were making a return journey across country, perhaps that wouldn't be too bad. On top of that though, there’s also €1 charge for each ticket. There are of course travel cards which negate the need for that.
The train departed on time, was roomy and comfortable, and stuck to its schedule all the way to Haarlem. Having said how 'clean' I've found the Netherlands on the whole, one area where they do seem to have an even bigger problem than us is in trackside graffiti; near centres of population there can be miles of the stuff!
Haarlem station has an old world charm that the modern hub in Den Haag lacks. Having been around for nearly two hundred years that's to be expected of course. It's only a short walk or bike ride to the city centre and main square dominated by another of the vast, robust churches that are so common in Dutch cities and towns. Haarlem, like the other places I've visited has its own share of canals, waterways and narrow cobbled streets, but unlike Delft or Leiden, I wasn't feeling the love. I'm not sure why; maybe I felt it lacked the chocolate-boxy charm of those other places or maybe I'm doing it a disservice. As a consequence I didn't linger and was happy to follow the river and shortly be out in the countryside.
Waterways in Haarlem
For the first half of the journey it seemed to be back and forth between town and country, yet with the cyclepath network tending to thread its way through green spaces, it never felt oppressively busy in the way that towns back home often do. In Bornholm I picked up lunch to enjoy later on a bench back out in the country. There was one lengthy stretch which ran parallel to a motorway and underneath a set of high voltage wires way above. It was a largely straight route and sounds awful, yet the cyclepath was wonderfully smooth, wove back and forth to avoid the monotony, and was amongst seemingly wild heathland.
On returning once more to a town, this time Lisse, as I pedalled down the main street I could see signs and barriers indicating the road ahead was closed. On nearing the barriers it was obvious the whole road had been taken over by a funfair. After negotiating a parallel route down a shopping precinct for some while and trying in vain to return to my original route, it was clear just how extensive this funfair was. The Dutch certainly don't do entertainment by halves!
Tulips from Amsterdam? Nah, Lisse.
From Lisse the homeward leg once more alternated between town and country: Oegstgeest, the edge of Leiden, then Wassenaar. The landscape may not have the topographical variety of back home, but that certainly doesn't make it uninteresting. Once more it was the time of day when young people were leaving school or college for home and I'd often end up absorbed amongst a gaggle. For so many, their way of life on the bike begins early. The bike isn't a 'cool' possession to be paraded in front of friends, it's simply an everyday tool that does a job, like a pencil or paintbrush.
The final stretch picked up the reverse of the outbound leg I took the other day, back along 'mansion' alley. Some of the properties were 'Te koop' (for sale) and when I later checked, there was very little under €3M and plenty well above!
Back on site I managed to exchange some of the shrapnel I've gathered for the 50c coins I can use for hot shower tokens so no more chilly ones for the remainder of the trip. Another pleasant evening typing this up on the 'veranda'. Is it usual to be able to comfortably sit outside in September or have I dropped incredibly lucky?
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 8, Gouda
28th Sept., 48 miles
An overcast though dry start to the day felt like a let down, having been spoiled with the weather so far. Nevertheless I decided today would be the day for the longest ride, albeit still less than fifty miles. The fact is that I've now run out of planned routes, which is unusual as I normally plan more routes than days so I can select the right one depending on conditions - fatigue (mine), or wind (from the weather).
Again no particular rush to get away so it was around 10:30 when I wheeled away from the campsite entrance. This would appear to be another advantage of single-centred 'tours' rather than moving on each day - you don't feel any pressure to get moving. The initial direction north-eastwards past Wassenaar, then striking across towards Zoetermeer was becoming familiar, having undertaken different sections in different directions previously on the trip. Many of these cycle paths are wonderfully quiet which is understandable given the absence of traffic. Cycling becomes so much more … relaxed? Not that fellow cyclists are missing; even on more remote sections there's usually someone along every few minutes.
Knoopunten sign and map near Zoetermeer
I skirted the large lake of Zoetermeerse once again, this time in the opposite direction and without the 'hordes' that were around at the weekend. The breeze was insistent rather than discouraging, and was more or less 'playful' depending on which direction I needed to head. Since there was understandably little shelter in the open terrain, it could have been very much worse.
Waddinxveen lift bridge
Before reaching Gouda I first needed to transit one of its suburbs, Waddinxveen and cross the Gouwe river which I managed just prior to a barge passing. The bridge was a lift bridge so I hung around for a while to see the engineering at work. There's so much about the waterways infrastructure over here that's impressive to see.
The final approach to Gouda city centre was almost entirely straight as a die along a narrow, non-navigable waterway which, covered in lilly pads and guarded jealously by coots, was charming. All the residents along streets/roads such as this invariably have to cross a narrow band of water to access their houses. Some even have lift bridges, though whether they're for decoration or defence(!) I'm not so sure.
Gouda Stadthuis
The centre of Gouda has a Grote Markt with Stadhuis at its centre and is encircled, at a few streets distance, entirely by canals. You really don't need to endure the busyness of Amsterdam to derive pleasure from walking cobbled streets alongside pretty waterways, as I've found in the past few days.
De Visbank, Gouda
Leaving the city I was able to pick up a supermarket lunch for what the price of a coffee would have been in the Grote Markt. And I could then enjoy it sitting on a bench alongside a waterway out in the countryside. Only the sun shining down could have made the moment complete.
De Salamander windmolen in Leidschendam
Having traversed the centre of Zoetermeer once more, the final few miles through Leidschendam brought me once more onto familiar routes and the Garmin became less necessary. Even when exploring slightly different routes home, after a week or so here, I'm starting to develop that general sense of the surrounding area and can find my way around map-free. Just in time before I have to head home!
28th Sept., 48 miles
An overcast though dry start to the day felt like a let down, having been spoiled with the weather so far. Nevertheless I decided today would be the day for the longest ride, albeit still less than fifty miles. The fact is that I've now run out of planned routes, which is unusual as I normally plan more routes than days so I can select the right one depending on conditions - fatigue (mine), or wind (from the weather).
Again no particular rush to get away so it was around 10:30 when I wheeled away from the campsite entrance. This would appear to be another advantage of single-centred 'tours' rather than moving on each day - you don't feel any pressure to get moving. The initial direction north-eastwards past Wassenaar, then striking across towards Zoetermeer was becoming familiar, having undertaken different sections in different directions previously on the trip. Many of these cycle paths are wonderfully quiet which is understandable given the absence of traffic. Cycling becomes so much more … relaxed? Not that fellow cyclists are missing; even on more remote sections there's usually someone along every few minutes.
Knoopunten sign and map near Zoetermeer
I skirted the large lake of Zoetermeerse once again, this time in the opposite direction and without the 'hordes' that were around at the weekend. The breeze was insistent rather than discouraging, and was more or less 'playful' depending on which direction I needed to head. Since there was understandably little shelter in the open terrain, it could have been very much worse.
Waddinxveen lift bridge
Before reaching Gouda I first needed to transit one of its suburbs, Waddinxveen and cross the Gouwe river which I managed just prior to a barge passing. The bridge was a lift bridge so I hung around for a while to see the engineering at work. There's so much about the waterways infrastructure over here that's impressive to see.
The final approach to Gouda city centre was almost entirely straight as a die along a narrow, non-navigable waterway which, covered in lilly pads and guarded jealously by coots, was charming. All the residents along streets/roads such as this invariably have to cross a narrow band of water to access their houses. Some even have lift bridges, though whether they're for decoration or defence(!) I'm not so sure.
Gouda Stadthuis
The centre of Gouda has a Grote Markt with Stadhuis at its centre and is encircled, at a few streets distance, entirely by canals. You really don't need to endure the busyness of Amsterdam to derive pleasure from walking cobbled streets alongside pretty waterways, as I've found in the past few days.
De Visbank, Gouda
Leaving the city I was able to pick up a supermarket lunch for what the price of a coffee would have been in the Grote Markt. And I could then enjoy it sitting on a bench alongside a waterway out in the countryside. Only the sun shining down could have made the moment complete.
De Salamander windmolen in Leidschendam
Having traversed the centre of Zoetermeer once more, the final few miles through Leidschendam brought me once more onto familiar routes and the Garmin became less necessary. Even when exploring slightly different routes home, after a week or so here, I'm starting to develop that general sense of the surrounding area and can find my way around map-free. Just in time before I have to head home!
HobbesOnTour
Guru
- Location
- España
Happy Birthday!!!
Yep. Tax on fuel is pretty high. Can't say what it's like now but in the border areas it wasn't uncommon for drivers to pop across to fill their tanks.
That's gone up! It used to be €6. Like you say, steep for a short journey but excellent value on a long one, especially given the standard of facilities in the stations - so easy to get a loaded bike up and on to a train. Here, in Spain, they seem to have a progressive pricing system. It seems the first 100km are free for a bike! Come to Spain and your Yorkshireness will be in Heaven plotting train routes of 99km
Ah, now you're just sounding old!
"Tolerance" is a big feature of Dutch society. Big punishment for graffiti in the "wrong" place but tolerance for it in others.
The annual "Kermis", a big feature of Dutch, Belgian and some German towns and cities. They're a big deal and often very impressive. Great fun, too!
Like most places, it depends. This year has been exceptionally warm. Other Septembers can be wetter, if not cooler.
What is this "pressure to get moving" of which you speak?
There really is! I was incredibly lucky to get a demonstration one time of the "control system" for the Rhine through NL. Like air-traffic control, it was!
Really enjoyed this wandering in NL. Thank you.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
That sounds like a challenge I'd enjoy
Ah, but I am! That said, I don't mind, nay am impressed and admiring of street art. As you say, in the 'right places'.
It seems so. There were folks thronging to this one. Whole families it would seem.
No, thank you for reading and commenting. Much appreciated.
Unfortunately there'll be a short hiatus in postings but I'll enure things are completed, hopefully in a few days.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 9, (Not quite a) Zero miles day
29th Sept., 11 miles
The forecast was inconclusive and I was fresh out of routes. What to do? Well I am on the doorstep of the Dutch capital and I've barely seen a thing, so that became today's mission. More specifically, I wanted to visit Escher in het Paleis, the museum devoted to the life and works of the artist M C Escher, housed in a former Royal residence.
Back at the Binnenhof
The city centre is only a couple of miles away and the ride in through the wooded parklands is magically pleasant and tranquil, even under leaden skies desperate to offload an excess of moisture. It was an hour before the exhibition was due to open, so I took the opportunity for a random walk around the city centre. I passed the Binnenhof, Mauritshuis and Noordeinde Paleis once more, but tried mostly to stick to shopping arcades, not that they're of much interest to me, but they are pretty good at keeping rain at bay. Sometime after eleven I headed over to the Escher museum and happily parted with the €11.50 entrance fee. The greeters were welcoming and helpfully directed us to the lockers where bags could be stored, a cloakroom for coats (to dry!), and to the toilets for those who needed them. I did!
Escher in het Paleis
The palace itself isn't vast, no larger in fact than a modest Georgian town house in London. Escher's tale with examples of his work are spread across three of the floors, each room also having a display which tells the royal history associated with it.
I'm far from an art buff, more of the 'I know what I like' type and although I've been fascinated by some of his more well known works, I hadn't appreciated how Escher came to art. His skill initially began with lithography and woodcuts, only later coming to the tesselations and explorations of perspective for which plebs like me know him. Although I found all his work, early and late, mightily impressive, I'm not sure how I felt about viewing print 7 of 30, for example. 'Original' I guess has an entirely different meaning when the protagonist's intention is to produce multiple copies. What did impress me though is the skill and expertise required to cut into wood with the accuracy needed to achieve such mesmerising results.
I was particularly delighted to see a copy of Belvedere, a well known work of his, especially since it was produced in the year of my birth. And more so that this work inspired me to produce my own version on a more contemporary device some time in the mid-90s.
Belvedere, M C Escher
The upper floor was given over to work and exhibits inspired by the man. I was particularly taken with an wraparound, animated work projected along three sides of a rectangular room with seating on the fourth. Background music played as the work was presented and I was completely captivated. Perhaps it's the scientist in me which finds work like Escher's and other derivatives so appealing.
Animation celebrating Escher's work
I left the exhibition after a couple of hours, grabbed some lunch and an evening meal on the way home, with enough of the afternoon left to enjoy a short run in the woods through which I've now cycled multiple times.
An unexpected sunny close to the day allowed my evening meal and celebratory couple of beers for a trip well enjoyed to be taken on the veranda.
29th Sept., 11 miles
The forecast was inconclusive and I was fresh out of routes. What to do? Well I am on the doorstep of the Dutch capital and I've barely seen a thing, so that became today's mission. More specifically, I wanted to visit Escher in het Paleis, the museum devoted to the life and works of the artist M C Escher, housed in a former Royal residence.
Back at the Binnenhof
The city centre is only a couple of miles away and the ride in through the wooded parklands is magically pleasant and tranquil, even under leaden skies desperate to offload an excess of moisture. It was an hour before the exhibition was due to open, so I took the opportunity for a random walk around the city centre. I passed the Binnenhof, Mauritshuis and Noordeinde Paleis once more, but tried mostly to stick to shopping arcades, not that they're of much interest to me, but they are pretty good at keeping rain at bay. Sometime after eleven I headed over to the Escher museum and happily parted with the €11.50 entrance fee. The greeters were welcoming and helpfully directed us to the lockers where bags could be stored, a cloakroom for coats (to dry!), and to the toilets for those who needed them. I did!
Escher in het Paleis
The palace itself isn't vast, no larger in fact than a modest Georgian town house in London. Escher's tale with examples of his work are spread across three of the floors, each room also having a display which tells the royal history associated with it.
I'm far from an art buff, more of the 'I know what I like' type and although I've been fascinated by some of his more well known works, I hadn't appreciated how Escher came to art. His skill initially began with lithography and woodcuts, only later coming to the tesselations and explorations of perspective for which plebs like me know him. Although I found all his work, early and late, mightily impressive, I'm not sure how I felt about viewing print 7 of 30, for example. 'Original' I guess has an entirely different meaning when the protagonist's intention is to produce multiple copies. What did impress me though is the skill and expertise required to cut into wood with the accuracy needed to achieve such mesmerising results.
I was particularly delighted to see a copy of Belvedere, a well known work of his, especially since it was produced in the year of my birth. And more so that this work inspired me to produce my own version on a more contemporary device some time in the mid-90s.
Belvedere, M C Escher
The upper floor was given over to work and exhibits inspired by the man. I was particularly taken with an wraparound, animated work projected along three sides of a rectangular room with seating on the fourth. Background music played as the work was presented and I was completely captivated. Perhaps it's the scientist in me which finds work like Escher's and other derivatives so appealing.
Animation celebrating Escher's work
I left the exhibition after a couple of hours, grabbed some lunch and an evening meal on the way home, with enough of the afternoon left to enjoy a short run in the woods through which I've now cycled multiple times.
An unexpected sunny close to the day allowed my evening meal and celebratory couple of beers for a trip well enjoyed to be taken on the veranda.
OP
OP
IaninSheffield
Veteran
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Day 10, Den Haag - Europoort
30th Sept., 39 miles
Tonight's boat didn't sail until 20:30 with the last check in at 19:00, so with only forty-ish miles there was no rush. Even if I arrived at the port by 5pm as I did on the way out, I could make a gentle start, ease myself into a gentle pace, take a couple of extended breaks and still only need to close the final few miles … gently.
I made my last proper coffee - it's been great having a filter coffee machine in the cabin; for some reason it always tastes better on the continent. Finished off the cereal and milk, cleaned dishes, packed panniers, double then triple checked I'd missed nothing, gave the cabin a final clean, handed in the key and was wafting back along now familiar routes for the final time.
Even though it was almost eleven on a Saturday morning, the suburbs of Den Haag were incredibly quiet, or should that be peaceful? As such I made easy progress following the same route I took to Delft a week ago. That meant I was quickly alongside the Delfste Vliet although there were fewer rowers today. I stayed pretty much alongside water for most of the day, whether narrow grachts or wide, commercial channels.
Delft was as charming as the last time I was here although a little busier, with street markets occupying a lot of the canalside real estate thereby obliging passage on foot. It didn't matter; I was in no hurry. Since I happened to be passing by by the transport interchange, I felt obliged to take a look at another of these vast underground cycle stores. The number of spaces is incredible, literally thousands, and unsurprisingly the majority are occupied. And there's a cycle repair shop on site the size of which would put most UK cycle retailers to shame.
Straight out of the store and onto the canalside cycleway towards Rotterdam, the sun now providing a most comfortable temperature. My route steered clear of most of the city since today I'd be making my way eastwards along the northern bank of the Maas as far as Massluis. As I passed through Vlaardingen I picked up lunch at a Hogvliet supermarket for consumption while waiting for the Massluis - Rozenburg ferry.
As it happens I arrived just a minute or two before said ferry, so embarked with a swathe of other cyclists. Expecting to pay the fare onboard I waited with change in hand. Nobody came and this didn’t seem to phase the other, perhaps more experienced passengers. On reaching the other bank and disembarking I spotted a ticket machine with a temporarily attached notice in Dutch. I couldn't quite make out the reasoning but there seemed to be a temporary moratorium on charges.
Result! If you do happen that way though, the single fare for fietsers was €1.40, as far as I could tell. To me, even that would have been a bargain; little ferries like that are mini adventures! Before travelling further I found a seat overlooking the waterway and took a slightly belated lunch.
At this point I could have headed directly to my Blighty-bound ferry but with still plenty of time to kill I'd planned a route to and through a small town which looked interesting. Brielle was a port town though now berthing more tourist vessels rather than commercial. Consequently the restaurants and cafes had the upmarket feel that I suspect owners of such pleasure craft are likely to expect. Brielle also had a Lidl (not quite so upmarket then?) which tempted me in with the prospect of picking up a second lunch, something for this evening, and perhaps a small snack for breakfast. With grub aplenty and only ten or so miles to the ferry, I found another bench, this time overlooking a lake-like body of water hosting a bunch of folks out practising their sailing skills. With ducks and geese near the shore, dinghies out on the water, and the sun still maintaining a healthy temperature, I was more than happy to sit for a while.
The waterways of Brielle
The final few miles were less than inspiring, though pleasant enough, until making the final crossing of the Maas to put me on the right shore for the ferry. Now I was back amongst the industry and commercial landscape I'd seen on the way out. Even so, the cycle paths remained in excellent order and delivered me swiftly and safely to the P and O check in area. It took about half an hour to queue to obtain boarding documents then pass through customs until finally being allowed up the 11% ramp into the cycle area of the car deck to join mostly motorcycles on this sailing. On board and in my room by 5:30 after perhaps the gentlest day's cycling I can recall. Monitoring the Garmin on the way down, I generally kept my speed to between 8 and 9 mph. It felt completely different from the 11ish I'd usually be pushing. I arrived feeling comfortable, relaxed and completely de-stressed. Heartily recommend it.
Now just the overnight crossing to face, followed by the journey home … however that plays out.
30th Sept., 39 miles
Tonight's boat didn't sail until 20:30 with the last check in at 19:00, so with only forty-ish miles there was no rush. Even if I arrived at the port by 5pm as I did on the way out, I could make a gentle start, ease myself into a gentle pace, take a couple of extended breaks and still only need to close the final few miles … gently.
I made my last proper coffee - it's been great having a filter coffee machine in the cabin; for some reason it always tastes better on the continent. Finished off the cereal and milk, cleaned dishes, packed panniers, double then triple checked I'd missed nothing, gave the cabin a final clean, handed in the key and was wafting back along now familiar routes for the final time.
Even though it was almost eleven on a Saturday morning, the suburbs of Den Haag were incredibly quiet, or should that be peaceful? As such I made easy progress following the same route I took to Delft a week ago. That meant I was quickly alongside the Delfste Vliet although there were fewer rowers today. I stayed pretty much alongside water for most of the day, whether narrow grachts or wide, commercial channels.
Delft was as charming as the last time I was here although a little busier, with street markets occupying a lot of the canalside real estate thereby obliging passage on foot. It didn't matter; I was in no hurry. Since I happened to be passing by by the transport interchange, I felt obliged to take a look at another of these vast underground cycle stores. The number of spaces is incredible, literally thousands, and unsurprisingly the majority are occupied. And there's a cycle repair shop on site the size of which would put most UK cycle retailers to shame.
Straight out of the store and onto the canalside cycleway towards Rotterdam, the sun now providing a most comfortable temperature. My route steered clear of most of the city since today I'd be making my way eastwards along the northern bank of the Maas as far as Massluis. As I passed through Vlaardingen I picked up lunch at a Hogvliet supermarket for consumption while waiting for the Massluis - Rozenburg ferry.
As it happens I arrived just a minute or two before said ferry, so embarked with a swathe of other cyclists. Expecting to pay the fare onboard I waited with change in hand. Nobody came and this didn’t seem to phase the other, perhaps more experienced passengers. On reaching the other bank and disembarking I spotted a ticket machine with a temporarily attached notice in Dutch. I couldn't quite make out the reasoning but there seemed to be a temporary moratorium on charges.
Result! If you do happen that way though, the single fare for fietsers was €1.40, as far as I could tell. To me, even that would have been a bargain; little ferries like that are mini adventures! Before travelling further I found a seat overlooking the waterway and took a slightly belated lunch.
At this point I could have headed directly to my Blighty-bound ferry but with still plenty of time to kill I'd planned a route to and through a small town which looked interesting. Brielle was a port town though now berthing more tourist vessels rather than commercial. Consequently the restaurants and cafes had the upmarket feel that I suspect owners of such pleasure craft are likely to expect. Brielle also had a Lidl (not quite so upmarket then?) which tempted me in with the prospect of picking up a second lunch, something for this evening, and perhaps a small snack for breakfast. With grub aplenty and only ten or so miles to the ferry, I found another bench, this time overlooking a lake-like body of water hosting a bunch of folks out practising their sailing skills. With ducks and geese near the shore, dinghies out on the water, and the sun still maintaining a healthy temperature, I was more than happy to sit for a while.
The waterways of Brielle
The final few miles were less than inspiring, though pleasant enough, until making the final crossing of the Maas to put me on the right shore for the ferry. Now I was back amongst the industry and commercial landscape I'd seen on the way out. Even so, the cycle paths remained in excellent order and delivered me swiftly and safely to the P and O check in area. It took about half an hour to queue to obtain boarding documents then pass through customs until finally being allowed up the 11% ramp into the cycle area of the car deck to join mostly motorcycles on this sailing. On board and in my room by 5:30 after perhaps the gentlest day's cycling I can recall. Monitoring the Garmin on the way down, I generally kept my speed to between 8 and 9 mph. It felt completely different from the 11ish I'd usually be pushing. I arrived feeling comfortable, relaxed and completely de-stressed. Heartily recommend it.
Now just the overnight crossing to face, followed by the journey home … however that plays out.
