The Netherlands - a ten day, fixed base 'tour' from The Hague

[HobbesOnTour]

was wafting back along now familiar routes

&

the gentlest day's cycling

&

I arrived feeling comfortable, relaxed and completely de-stressed. Heartily recommend it.

What a great feeling!

Brielle

❤️

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 11, Hull - Home
1st Nov., 20 miles

Pride of Hull in Europoort​

It's seventy miles from Hull to home; not especially difficult cycling but for the last day of my trip I just didn't fancy it. I figured instead I'd either repeat my outward journey in reverse by cycling to Gainsborough and catching the train from there, or catching a train from Hull as far as Doncaster then cycling the remainder. As I freewheeled down the steep ramp, the saturated ground and ominous looking skies settled things - cycle to Hull station, catch a train to Doncaster then cycle the fifteen miles to home from there. Now that all depended on the situation in the aftermath of yesterday’s rail strike; would there be trains and staff in the right places to run services?

An unusually deserted Drypool Bridge​

After negotiating the barren back streets of Hull in slight drizzle I arrived at the station to find the first train of the day heading to Doncaster had just left but more importantly, the departures board suggested that subsequent trains were all running. With thirty minutes until the next one I had time to grab a bit of breakfast.

Departure boards showing no cancellations or delays. Yay!​

Two women cyclists I’d said hello to on the boat were also waiting for the train, but when we boarded there was plenty of room for all three bikes. They’d done the LF Maasroute having caught the train to Maastricht a week ago then cycled back west following the river. They’d had a great time and were very complimentary about the route; better than the Rhine which they’d followed on a previous ride.

At Doncaster I left the train into more drizzle and decidedly chillier weather than I’d been enjoying for the past week, satisfied with my decision to catch the train rather than ride the whole way. With only an hour and a bit to home, a memorable hol was almost at its close.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Epilogue

De Put, Leiden​

I went to the Netherlands firstly to experience the cycling, but also to get a brief and admittedly localised impression of the country. I chose to stay on a campsite, leave my tent at home and instead hire a wooden cabin - a far more expensive option, but it was my 65th birthday after all and I figured I deserved a treat. The Dutch are no strangers to camping and Duinhorst, even at the end of September, was well patronised, if not mainly by caravans, motorhomes and campervans. The facilities and the location were excellent, however, despite being well over a mile to the nearest public transport, this was hardly an issue with cycling being so easy.

Tree-lined avenue in Den Haag​

Cycling was in fact a revelation. I've seen plenty of YouTube videos and read blogs by both residents and visitors, almost all of whom paint the capacity for cycling in such a positive light. It's one thing to watch GoPro footage of a journey from Den Haag to Delft; it's an altogether different matter to undertake the same journey for yourself. Firstly the infrastructure is amazing. Cyclepaths are clean, wide, well-used, well-signed and have good surfaces. When there are diversions due to roadworks, as indeed there were locally and on a couple of my journeys, clear diversion signage is posted. All that said, I should mention local streets once more and the ubiquitous use of pavé. It can be very uncomfortable and I now appreciate why Dutch bikes often have sprung saddles.

Koombrug, Leiden​

Of course it came as no surprise that the cycling and the landscape, at least in this area of the Netherlands, were flat. Not monotonous, but definitely planar. For the time I was there I really enjoyed my cycling but wondered if I found myself there for longer whether I'd miss the hills. (Did I really just type that?!). The wide, open expanses lead to one or two unexpected conundrums when on longer rides, such as where to take a pee! Out in the sticks there's often very little shrubbery and you can be seen for miles. There's also rarely more than a few moments without a cyclist passing by!

Yep, this is a bike path, not a road​

Although to some extent I'd expected it, it still surprised me how varied the cycling public is. There are young and old, rich and poor, fit and infirm. Folks are out cycling for transport, for pleasure, for leisure and often it seemed simply as a social activity undertaken with a partner, friend, lover, perhaps even between colleagues for all I knew. I lost count of the number of Bakfiets-style bikes with an adult propelling one or two toddlers who, at least for the brief moments I saw them, seemed to be completely at ease. I really did find it quite special.

At crossings cyclists even get their own lights which indicate how long you’ll be waiting
Luxury! (said in the tone of one of 'The Four Yorkshiremen')​

A couple of small non-cycling related observations. Firstly how clean and litter-free the place seems to be, which seems strangely at odds with the amount of graffiti; it's not everywhere but where it is you can't miss it. Then there was how expensive the cost of living seemed to be. Food, domestic goods and transport mostly seemed to be more expensive than back home. Simple stuff like a loaf of bread or some cheese. Perhaps income is generally higher or taxes are lower? Something to find out the next time.

When cycle paths need to traverse railway lines this is the way to do it. Not up and over a footbridge!
And why not add a little artistic bling!​

I really do have to make time to revisit the Netherlands; for beautiful towns and cities, for the friendliness of the people, but especially for the cycling. It was just so refreshing to be treated as a fellow 'road' user rather than an irritant or a problem, and to be afforded much greater and perhaps simply appropriate levels of care by motorised road users. It's one thing to be aware that this culture exists, it's an altogether different matter to have had the opportunity to experience the generosity of it.

 

[grldtnr]

Epilogue

View attachment 710837
De Put, Leiden​

I went to the Netherlands firstly to experience the cycling, but also to get a brief and admittedly localised impression of the country. I chose to stay on a campsite, leave my tent at home and instead hire a wooden cabin - a far more expensive option, but it was my 65th birthday after all and I figured I deserved a treat. The Dutch are no strangers to camping and Duinhorst, even at the end of September, was well patronised, if not mainly by caravans, motorhomes and campervans. The facilities and the location were excellent, however, despite being well over a mile to the nearest public transport, this was hardly an issue with cycling being so easy.

View attachment 710838
Tree-lined avenue in Den Haag​

Cycling was in fact a revelation. I've seen plenty of YouTube videos and read blogs by both residents and visitors, almost all of whom paint the capacity for cycling in such a positive light. It's one thing to watch GoPro footage of a journey from Den Haag to Delft; it's an altogether different matter to undertake the same journey for yourself. Firstly the infrastructure is amazing. Cyclepaths are clean, wide, well-used, well-signed and have good surfaces. When there are diversions due to roadworks, as indeed there were locally and on a couple of my journeys, clear diversion signage is posted. All that said, I should mention local streets once more and the ubiquitous use of pavé. It can be very uncomfortable and I now appreciate why Dutch bikes often have sprung saddles.

View attachment 710839
Koombrug, Leiden​

Of course it came as no surprise that the cycling and the landscape, at least in this area of the Netherlands, were flat. Not monotonous, but definitely planar. For the time I was there I really enjoyed my cycling but wondered if I found myself there for longer whether I'd miss the hills. (Did I really just type that?!). The wide, open expanses lead to one or two unexpected conundrums when on longer rides, such as where to take a pee! Out in the sticks there's often very little shrubbery and you can be seen for miles. There's also rarely more than a few moments without a cyclist passing by!

View attachment 710840
Yep, this is a bike path, not a road​

Although to some extent I'd expected it, it still surprised me how varied the cycling public is. There are young and old, rich and poor, fit and infirm. Folks are out cycling for transport, for pleasure, for leisure and often it seemed simply as a social activity undertaken with a partner, friend, lover, perhaps even between colleagues for all I knew. I lost count of the number of Bakfiets-style bikes with an adult propelling one or two toddlers who, at least for the brief moments I saw them, seemed to be completely at ease. I really did find it quite special.

View attachment 710841
At crossings cyclists even get their own lights which indicate how long you’ll be waiting
Luxury! (said in the tone of one of 'The Four Yorkshiremen')​

A couple of small non-cycling related observations. Firstly how clean and litter-free the place seems to be, which seems strangely at odds with the amount of graffiti; it's not everywhere but where it is you can't miss it. Then there was how expensive the cost of living seemed to be. Food, domestic goods and transport mostly seemed to be more expensive than back home. Simple stuff like a loaf of bread or some cheese. Perhaps income is generally higher or taxes are lower? Something to find out the next time.

View attachment 710843
When cycle paths need to traverse railway lines this is the way to do it. Not up and over a footbridge!
And why not add a little artistic bling!​

I really do have to make time to revisit the Netherlands; for beautiful towns and cities, for the friendliness of the people, but especially for the cycling. It was just so refreshing to be treated as a fellow 'road' user rather than an irritant or a problem, and to be afforded much greater and perhaps simply appropriate levels of care by motorised road users. It's one thing to be aware that this culture exists, it's an altogether different matter to have had the opportunity to experience the generosity of it.

Ian, your epilogue hits the mark completely, is definitely ba pleasure to ride in the Netherlands, your remark about the costs of living, can be explained by taxes to pay for the travel infrastructure, but also despite the countries lack of natural resources,i.e. coal, gas, and other resources, it's actually va very wealthy, a product of its successful empire ,and companies like the Dutch East Indies, plus their expertise in agriculture,chemical and pharmaceuticals and Petrochemicals.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

A great write up and, it seems, a good way to celebrate a birthday.

They’d done the LF Maasroute

I made at least two attempts to do the Maas route in NL but kept getting pulled off course

I should mention local streets once more and the ubiquitous use of pavé. It can be very uncomfortable and I now appreciate why Dutch bikes often have sprung saddles.

I'm a tad confused. are you referring to the interlocking, flat tiles/stones or actual cobbles? If it's the cobbles then better stay away from Belgium - and don't even think about Portugal!

it still surprised me how varied the cycling public is.

Language is an interesting thing. The Dutch have 2 words for cycling/cyclists. "Wielrenner" is the sporty, serious cyclist while "fietser" is someone who rides a bike. It's an interesting distinction and I can't help but wonder if it goes a bit of the way to explaining the lack of an obvious division in attitude between motorised & non-motorised traffic.

how expensive the cost of living seemed to be

You might be interested in this linky comparing cost of living in different countries. It suggests the cost of living is higher in NL but purchasing power is higher too.
As a 20 odd year resident I found taxes to be high but services generally matched. Regular train passengers, for example, will have discounted tickets. And I recall cheerfully coming out of work at 6am one morning after an overnight snowfall and my cycling path being cleared before the road!
Municipal facilities are generally excellent and, of course, you've seen the bike parking facilities.

I really do have to make time to revisit the Netherlands;

Good to hear!
There's no shortage of good cycling and interesting things to see and do. You asked me once if I could detect a difference from one place to another when I crossed a border. Well, cycle from NL into Belgium or Germany and you will see the differences, almost immediately! And, if you do miss the hills head for Limburg. Lots of hills and interesting places to cycle.

 

[IaninSheffield]

I'm a tad confused. are you referring to the interlocking, flat tiles/stones or actual cobbles? If it's the cobbles then better stay away from Belgium - and don't even think about Portugal!

Yeah, I might not have used the correct terms. I meant the interlocking brick-like blocks, not actual cobbles.
Oh dear! I do have Belgium on my 'To visit' list. I've been many times over the years but not as a cyclist since the 1970s and on that occasion, by the time we'd cycled through Belgium in two days, one of our group was developing a rather painful boil/blister on the ... <ahem!> which he put down to the road conditions.

It suggests the cost of living is higher in NL but purchasing power is higher too.
As a 20 odd year resident I found taxes to be high but services generally matched. Regular train passengers, for example, will have discounted tickets. And I recall cheerfully coming out of work at 6am one morning after an overnight snowfall and my cycling path being cleared before the road!
Municipal facilities are generally excellent and, of course, you've seen the bike parking facilities.

Both you and @grldtnr make good points on this topic. If I came across as critical of higher taxes I must apologise. If I can enjoy and benefit from the excellent facilities and infrastructure you describe, then I've no complaints about a higher rate of taxation. Of course what I consider 'excellent' and what others do might not of course coincide.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Yeah, I might not have used the correct terms. I meant the interlocking brick-like blocks, not actual cobbles.

Oh dear! Those street surfaces are everywhere in NL!
However, they make street repairs, and especially accessing the cables underneath, a straightforward job with no lumps, bumps or holes afterwards. (Did you see any phone/electricity poles on your travels? - it's all underground).

If I came across as critical of higher taxes I must apologise.

I didn't see any criticism, just an observation on differences.

 

[bitsandbobs]

Ian, your epilogue hits the mark completely, is definitely ba pleasure to ride in the Netherlands, your remark about the costs of living, can be explained by taxes to pay for the travel infrastructure, but also despite the countries lack of natural resources,i.e. coal, gas, and other resources, it's actually va very wealthy, a product of its successful empire ,and companies like the Dutch East Indies, plus their expertise in agriculture,chemical and pharmaceuticals and Petrochemicals.

NL has the largest natural gas field in Europe and one of the biggest in the world: revenue from gas has been a major contributor to NL's post-war economic development.

 

[bitsandbobs]

Day 10, Den Haag - Europoort
30th Sept., 39 miles

View attachment 710759​

As it happens I arrived just a minute or two before said ferry, so embarked with a swathe of other cyclists. Expecting to pay the fare onboard I waited with change in hand. Nobody came and this didn’t seem to phase the other, perhaps more experienced passengers. On reaching the other bank and disembarking I spotted a ticket machine with a temporarily attached notice in Dutch. I couldn't quite make out the reasoning but there seemed to be a temporary moratorium on charges.

​

There used to be a much bigger ferry which carried cars as well as bikes, but the operator went bust earlier this year. The operator of the Jorina isn't allowed to charge anyone until it can work out how to accept payment by the various types of transport passes that people have. Until then it's free!

 

[grldtnr]

NL has the largest natural gas field in Europe and one of the biggest in the world: revenue from gas has been a major contributor to NL's post-war economic development.

Sorry ,my bad! My mistake.

 

[grldtnr]

Oh dear! Those street surfaces are everywhere in NL!
However, they make street repairs, and especially accessing the cables underneath, a straightforward job with no lumps, bumps or holes afterwards. (Did you see any phone/electricity poles on your travels? - it's all underground).

I didn't see any criticism, just an observation on differences.

The block pavé is to define traffic calmed areas as shared use, it's visual and audible, also there are no kerbs in these areas, they are used In other areas too.
Much better surface to cycle on than the slabs they used to use back when, these were laid out in rows, so that movement caused a 'tramline' effect, probably unintended, but I definitely felt it as a rode along, these slabs would move over time due to settlement,and likely caused more maintenance.
The more modern block pavé, is much stronger,because it's interlocking,
You didn't mention the ' Dremples' , they are everywhere !

 

[All uphill]

NL has the largest natural gas field in Europe and one of the biggest in the world: revenue from gas has been a major contributor to NL's post-war economic development.

True. Its also the cause of frequent earthquakes in the North of the country.

 

[Jody]

Great write up @IaninSheffield and thanks for taking the time to do it.

NL tour is something I've been contemplating for a while. All the pictures make me want to get back to Holland and especially the little draw bridge in Delft. I'd love a little house around there.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

You didn't mention the ' Dremples' , they are everywhere !

No, no I didn't. I see your "Dremples" and raise you some "Topes"

 

[IaninSheffield]

Grateful to @HobbesOnTour , @bitsandbobs and @grldtnr for the local knowledge and filling some gaps in mine.