Ticking Clicking Bottom Bracket?

[Deleted member 26715]

Some time ago I noticed that I had a noise on the crank, it was there when I first start to ride but would disappear after a few miles, it's now got to the point where it's there all the time. It's not loud but a slight tick/click can be heard somewhere between 6 & 7 then again somewhere between 12 & 1. I checked my knees & it isn't them, but it's definitely on the crank as it's consistent on each revolution. It's only very slight but it's now getting to that annoying state, it has SM-BB52 Mountain written on the non-drive side. I can't feel any movement when holding the pedals & trying to flex, it's only done around 1400 miles, is there any adjustment or does it need to be replaced?

It's not a system I'm familiar with, do you remove the non-drive crank with the allen keys, then does the drive side then pull through, then allowing you to unscrew the outers of the BB, is this a special tool?

 

[gbb]

Check your FD cable and isn't sticking out and brushing the crank as it passes, giving a regular 'tick'

 

[Deleted member 26715]

Thanks I thought I had, but will check again, looking ont net there appears to be 2 flavours 68 & 73, any idea how I know which one, or do I have to strip it down first?

 

[slowmotion]

Something similar happened to me on a night ride to Whitstable. It turned out to be loose bolt holding the crank arm onto the axle thingy. @ianrauk diagnosed the problem and fixed it at the side of the road.

Chapeau that man!

 

[Cycleops]

To answer your question the non drive side is removed by loosening the Allen bolts. There's a tongue I think which locates it in centrally in the spindle.
The drive side and spindle just pulls out. There's a special tool to remove the outboard bearings. There are plastic spacers to use between the cranks and bearings.
I can't think what might be causing the click. You could try new bearings they're only a tenner.

 

[Threevok]

Sounds like it's toast. these are not serviceable, you will need a new BB and the tool to remove it

If you don't mind Gold, spend the extra on a BB80 "Saint" BB - they last longer

Failing that, an MT800 "XT" one - but you will need an adapter for your BB tool if you do use one of these, as the outside diameter is smaller

 

[rogerzilla]

Have the BB shell faced by a bike shop (it's not very expensive) before fitting a new one. One reason these can have a short life is if they end up non-parallel when fitted. They're not a perfect design but they're a lot better than PF30!

 

[Threevok]

Have the BB shell faced by a bike shop (it's not very expensive) before fitting a new one. One reason these can have a short life is if they end up non-parallel when fitted. They're not a perfect design but they're a lot better than PF30!

I can't understand why that would be a problem on a threaded BB. A press fit BB yes, but not threaded

 

[Cycleops]

It's a Hollowtech installation @rogerzilla I think you may be confusing it with press fit.

 

[rogerzilla]

If the faces are lumpy or non-parallel, there is enough slack in the threads for the external cups to end up out of parallel too. It was the same for cup and cone BBs. It's rarely an issue for cartridge units like the UN55, which only bears on one face of the shell, so bike shops have got out of the habit of prepping frames properly.

It is absolutely critical with HT2 cups that they are parallel and in line, otherwise the axle is constantly trying to twist the cups back into line and they wear out fast.

 

[Threevok]

If the faces are lumpy or non-parallel, there is enough slack in the threads for the external cups to end up out of parallel too. It was the same for cup and cone BBs. It's rarely an issue for cartridge units like the UN55, which only bears on one face of the shell, so bike shops have got out of the habit of prepping frames properly.

But there are three plastic spacers (two one side and one the other) between the BB and the frame. These spacers are soft and are not exactly perfectly faced

Facing the frame would be a futile. The angle of the cups will always be dictated by the angle of the threads in the frame

 

[Levo-Lon]

1500 miles is excellent for MTB BB
I've done one in under 30, mind you I rode through a river lol.

You can clean and re- grease but it's only a temporary fix, I'd go with @Threevok suggested fix.
Xt BB ,you will need tools and the xt has a smaller ex diameter ,the new tool adapter is usually supplied in the box from CRC ..or you will need to buy it.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

Thanks for all the replies, I'm not familiar with these, I would have expected longer life, but I don't spend any time cleaning other than chucking a watering can of water over, so maybe I can't expect things to last too long.

I'm happy to fit either BB80 or MT800 colour is not a consideration I never look at the bike when riding, the BB80 seems a few pounds extra, is it worth that bit extra?

 

[Cycleops]

Here's an extract from a similar discussion on here recently;


Yellow SaddleVeteran
↑
The Deore bottom bracket (SM BB52) on my tourer has a little bit of play. It's done about 7000 Km in all weathers and not always on tarmac.
I'm wondering if an XT BB would have a better sealing arrangement - anybody know please?

No it wont. The bearing and seal on both are identical. There's some cosmetic difference and a number on the price ticket, that's all.

 

[Threevok]

I'm happy to fit either BB80 or MT800 colour is not a consideration I never look at the bike when riding, the BB80 seems a few pounds extra, is it worth that bit extra?

Only when on offer.

I have the Saint on the Virtue (merely for the colour) and an XT on my Inbred.

This is the first XT I have owned but it seems to be holding up as good as the Saints