Treating surface rust

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I think tyre rub has damaged the protective outer-coat on the inside of my chainstay, not sure how it happened without me noticing the rubbing, or getting a tyre blow out, but it did!

How do I go about removing surface rust on a steel frame without damaging surrounding paintwork?

So I've double and triple checked my wheel positioning to ensure it doesn't happen again, what can I now put over the bare steel surface to prevent further rusting?
 

Nigelnightmare

Über Member
Um-er-oh!....Try paint, that seems to work.:whistle:

Seriously though:- Zinc primer- Undercoat- Colour- Top coat/Clear lacquer.
 

tamiya

Well-Known Member
Location
AU, MY, SG
DeOx would be similar to EvapoRust or Oxalic acid... it'll chelate it back to raw steel, then you've gotta prep, prime & paint.

Or simply neutralise/halt the rust with phosphoric acid type fixer, turns it black & you can prime & paint over that.

Or these days there's specialist paint from Hammerite, Rustoleum, POR15 etc that can simply just be painted over rusty steel after brushing off all loose bits.
 

froze

Über Member
Once you get the rust removed by one of the methods given, fingernail enamel in the color that matches works just fine, or use Testors enamel or Model Masters model paint in the small bottle. The problem with some of the paints mentioned is finding a color that will match your bike paint color, so unless you're willing to repaint the entire bike I would suggest a much smaller project and use the Testors and a good quality fine paint brush using several thin coats. Testors is a very high quality paint too, it's durable and dries to a smooth finish, some people will put 3 or 4 drops of mineral spirits to the paint and mix, I never found that necessary painting very small areas and with a new bottle, older bottles that sat around while yes. But you can tell if you need to add the mineral spirits if the paint doesn't level (I would add one drop of thinner test on a piece of metal, if the brush marks level fine if not add another drop and retest, and do this till the paint levels, level means the brush marks smooth out and disappear by themselves; like I said painting very small areas found on bike related touchups I haven't had the need to thin the paint.

If you can get your hands on a airbrush paint gun that would work superbly, but with Testors you have to use 3 parts paint and 2 parts thinner for a gloss effect or 1 part thinner for flat (not sure about the ratios with Model Masters since I've never use that paint), use 23 psi again using thin coats till the color is solid. 48 hours is the typical curing time on metal.

Some will say to wet sand between coats, while that is the best way, I've never really found it necessary on small touch up stuff, cars yes, bikes no.

I've found that Testors brand of Premium flat paint brushes works just fine.
 

Gravity Aided

Legendary Member
Location
Land of Lincoln
I just use household cleaning vinegar and a household brush with stiff nylon bristles, then use nail enamel as @froze suggests. I go to the second-hand store(Goodwill) and get a big bag of opened nail enamels for less than $4. I must say @froze is quite the expert in these matters, and what he suggests makes good sense. Nail enamel is self-leveling by nature, so little need for sanding, etc., and a shade can almost always be found to match.
 
I wouldn't have thought that the rust would be that deep unless you have done it some years ago and only just discovered it. If you have some lemon or lime juice in your fridge you could just brush some onto the bare metal and leave it to work and then wash it off with water. Dry the area and de grease with white spirits or petrol before applying primer. If you can get hold of some self etching primer that would be good as the acid will etch into the steel and provide a protective coating onto which you could apply your colour.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
I used enamel paint around the BB on my steel frame. Didn't need a base coat and seems to be staying put so far.
 

KneesUp

Guru
It depends on how 'professional' you want it to be. I sand back a bit, coat it with rust treatment and either paint it with anti-rust primer or just put clear enamel over it. On my previous frame I had some Humbrol modelers enamel that I used - it looked like it was going to be a good match when I bought it, but it wasn't really, hence this frame just gets grey primer and /or clear enamel.
 
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