Tri Di2 Upgrade - what do I need?

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ojfbx

Regular
Location
UK
Hi folks!
First time poster here, so please be gentle!

I have a Cervelo P2 that I bought secondhand for a 70.3 I did in May. It’s lovely but perhaps a little out of date - 2014/15 with 10sp Ultegra. As I’m doing more and more cycling these days, I’d like to become more familiar with the mechanics of the thing so I don’t have to fork out every time something pretty minor happens.
So, I’d like to upgrade to 11 speed, Ultegra Di2.

Could anyone tell me firstly please -
which components I’d need to do this? I know a full group set is over a grand, but I don’t need to touch the brakes really.
And secondly - does anyone know if that frame will support it?

I know - if it ain’t broke, why mend it? Well I like a project, I want to learn and…………something about faster…..aero….? I mean sure, I’m over 100kgs but those gear shifters are what’s really slowing me down….

TIA!
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
Hello and :welcome: to the forum

I’m not qualified to suggest what you might need but I’m sure it could be done if you can find a home for the battery which I imagine would be the primary consideration, also how to integrate the cables. You need to have an in-depth knowledge of Di2 so I would say best left to a shop but then you’re talking real money. If you want Di2 above all else I’d say sell the bike and get one with it installed. But if it’s the shifting that’s getting you down why don’t you just make it slicker by replacing all the cables? No better way to learn the mechanics at a basic level. It’ll never as quick but it will make a noticeable improvement. You could upgrade to standard 11 speed but I see little point.
I don’t think electronic shifting is going to make you more ‘aero’ ^_^
 
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raggydoll

Über Member
I wouldn't personally spend the money it would cost to upgrade a 7 year old bike.
Plus have the headache of fitting it to a frame not designed for it.

I’d like to become more familiar with the mechanics of the thing so I don’t have to fork out every time something pretty minor happens.

In that case you would be better to keep it mechanical. If your cable breaks, simply fit a new cable.
If you have any issues with di2 (electronic wires, battery etc), it's an expensive trip to the bike shop.

Parts are also a lot more expensive to replace so not only would it cost you a lot at the start, it would cost you more anytime anything went wrong or needed replaced.
For example:
di2 rear derailleur is around £255.
Mechanical version is around £83.
 
OP
OP
ojfbx

ojfbx

Regular
Location
UK
Ok, so how about changing from 10sp to 11sp mechanical then. What would I need for that? Assume I’m a complete idiot novice. For instance, the shifters I have, will they convert to 11sp, or would I need a new set?
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Welcome to the forum.:welcome:

Can't help with your question I'm afraid but there should be a few people on here who can (and probably some who can't, but will nonetheless be very keen to lecture you on how to spend your own money).

Also - give the forum Search facility a try. We've had a fair few DI2 threads.
 

TerryDi2

Well-Known Member
Di2 wise.. you would be looking at:

  • Battery: BT-DN110 (Internal) or BM-DN100 + SM-BTR1 (ext. mount + battery)
  • Charger: SM-BCR2 (internal) or SM-BCR1 (for external)

  • Rear derailleur: RD-R8050 or RD-R9150
  • Front derailleur (?) FD-R8050 / FD-R9150

  • Junction A (has charging port and a button/leds): EW-RS910 or SM-EW90-A /-B. For a Tri bike the SM-EW90-B (5 ports) makes sense.
  • Junction B: SM-JC41 (internal). Not required, but helps with cable routing

  • Seatpost battery holder if installing the battery in a seatpost
  • Whatever shift buttons you want. Max 6 shift 'units' can be installed.
  • Enough EW-SD50 wires to connect everything
 

jowwy

Can't spell, Can't Punctuate....Sue Me
I wouldn't personally spend the money it would cost to upgrade a 7 year old bike.
Plus have the headache of fitting it to a frame not designed for it.



In that case you would be better to keep it mechanical. If your cable breaks, simply fit a new cable.
If you have any issues with di2 (electronic wires, battery etc), it's an expensive trip to the bike shop.

Parts are also a lot more expensive to replace so not only would it cost you a lot at the start, it would cost you more anytime anything went wrong or needed replaced.
For example:
di2 rear derailleur is around £255.
Mechanical version is around £83.
Is 7yrs old, really that old?? what if it was a 7yr old custom steel or Titanium?? Would you spend the money then??
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
Ok, so how about changing from 10sp to 11sp mechanical then. What would I need for that? Assume I’m a complete idiot novice. For instance, the shifters I have, will they convert to 11sp, or would I need a new set?
Nooe. You would need specific 11 speed shifters.
 
OP
OP
ojfbx

ojfbx

Regular
Location
UK
Di2 wise.. you would be looking at:

  • Battery: BT-DN110 (Internal) or BM-DN100 + SM-BTR1 (ext. mount + battery)
  • Charger: SM-BCR2 (internal) or SM-BCR1 (for external)

  • Rear derailleur: RD-R8050 or RD-R9150
  • Front derailleur (?) FD-R8050 / FD-R9150

  • Junction A (has charging port and a button/leds): EW-RS910 or SM-EW90-A /-B. For a Tri bike the SM-EW90-B (5 ports) makes sense.
  • Junction B: SM-JC41 (internal). Not required, but helps with cable routing

  • Seatpost battery holder if installing the battery in a seatpost
  • Whatever shift buttons you want. Max 6 shift 'units' can be installed.
  • Enough EW-SD50 wires to connect everything
Thank you. Super helpful!
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
....plus cassette and chain. I think the freehub will take 11 speed.
Quite a big expense for one additional gear but it's your shout.
 
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pawl

Legendary Member
Personally I wouldn’t change to electronic shifting The sort of riding I do does not warrant I am perfectly happy with my 11speed 105.If it’s what you want go for it

Perhaps I should add I don’t understand why cars need head lamps and screen wipers come on automatically If you are not aware visibility is poor or it’s raining perhaps a trip to spec savers is required

I do like the shifters on the bars,so I’m perhaps not quite a dinosaur :wacko::wacko::wacko:
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
Personally I wouldn’t change to electronic shifting The sort of riding I do does not warrant I am perfectly happy with my 11speed 105.If it’s what you want go for it
I’m happy with nine or less, it’s horses for courses innit. Going to electronic shifting would not increase my cycling pleasure one iota but for others it does. If @oftbx thinks it will and doesn’t mind it making a big hole in his bank balance good luck to him, it’s not for others to say he shouldn’t.
 
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