Triban 3 New Chain

[HovR]

Another update...I checked the chainset, and it's worn, one of them looks like a shark's tooth! Is this normal? I've probably done about 1200 miles on this bike. Do I need to replace the cassette too then? This is getting expensive

On some chainsets certain teeth are often strategically shaped to better pick up the chain. If it's just one tooth I wouldn't worry, otherwise you could post a picture so we can see for ourselves.

My advice would be to not worry about it. Fit the new chain, keeping the old chain. If the new chain slips, put the old one back on until you can replace the cassette/chainrings. If it doesn't slip then everything is good.

 

[Boopop]

On some chainsets certain teeth are often strategically shaped to better pick up the chain. If it's just one tooth I wouldn't worry, otherwise you could post a picture so we can see for ourselves.

My advice would be to not worry about it. Fit the new chain, keeping the old chain. If the new chain slips, put the old one back on until you can replace the cassette/chainrings. If it doesn't slip then everything is good.

OK, thanks for that - it is just one tooth. Now on the IRC channel I'm on, people are telling me about cross chaining. Looks like that's another thing I need to take account of when cycling!

 

[gbb]

No, as the chain would be through the rear triangle/chain stay.
As it's going to be thrown away you can always cut through it with a pair of heavy duty cutters if you don't have a chain breaker.

'Doh' moment, of course.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

As Ian says, a KMC is perfect, but does your existing chain come with a quick link (i suspect it doesnt) which means you may need a chain splitter to get your existing one off.

Here's a thought while i'm sitting here...assuming a rivetted chain is on there, could you just remove the rear wheel and derailleur jockey wheels and get the chain off that way, i'm trying to visualise it ?

You would have to dismantle the front derailleur as well as hacksaw through the frame! Sometimes though these I wonder wonder moments work out.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

When you put the circlip back on make sure you get it the right way round so it goes through the derailers closed end first

Alan...

 

[HLaB]

Dont bin it, keep it in your saddle bag for emergency use.

Got a mate out of hole, the other week when his chain snapped, I carry an old link for those eventualities.

 

[Boopop]

Update!

So I'm getting a man in tomorrow to fix my gear changing problems, hopefully I'll learn something in the process and be able to fix it myself the next time. I'm thinking it's best I don't use the replacement chain that arrived a few days ago because...

I've been cross chaining apparently (11 years of cycling no-one's ever taught me how to properly use gears on a bike. Turns out ignorance isn't bliss ) I looked up the chainset on the Triban 3 and it doesn't look like it's particularly high quality, coming from a company called Prowheel which appears to be Chinese. My cross-chaining, the quality of the chainset and the fact that I've done about 1100 miles I reckon explains why the wear on the teeth on the largest chainring is really uneven. Some teeth look like they've barely been touched while others look like they've been chopped off. Am I making any sense here or am I just talking out of my posterior?

Anyway I'm guessing it's time for an upgrade - do I need to get a new cassette to go along with it? Or am I completely going off on one and am talking a load of rubbish?

Regardless I'll let this repairman appear tomorrow and see what he thinks.

Thanks again

 

[HovR]

As it's going to be thrown away you can always cut through it with a pair of heavy duty cutters if you don't have a chain breaker.

I have to admit to using this method to remove a junk chain off a bike I'm restoring today!

I didn't want to have to empty the saddle bag on my club run bike to find my chain tool, only to have to put everything back in. Just as I was thinking that I remembered back to this post, and took out a pair of bolt cutters from my workbench drawer.

Went through that chain like it was made of cheese, they did!

 

[bobones]

My cross-chaining, the quality of the chainset and the fact that I've done about 1100 miles I reckon explains why the wear on the teeth on the largest chainring is really uneven. Some teeth look like they've barely been touched while others look like they've been chopped off. Am I making any sense here or am I just talking out of my posterior?

You have not worn the teeth on your chain rings. They are designed like that to aid shifting. If you're replacing your chain at the .75 mark you will not need a new cassette either. I'm reckoning that you may even be replacing the chain a little prematurely as these chain checkers overestimate the wear given the way they measure and 1100 miles isn't very much for an 8 speed chain. Check the chain length with a ruler to confirm if you really need to replace the chain. I suspect you just want to spend money on your bike, whether it's needed or not!

 

[shouldbeinbed]

As Ian says, a KMC is perfect, but does your existing chain come with a quick link (i suspect it doesnt) which means you may need a chain splitter to get your existing one off.

Here's a thought while i'm sitting here...assuming a rivetted chain is on there, could you just remove the rear wheel and derailleur jockey wheels and get the chain off that way, i'm trying to visualise it ?

It'l be threaded through the front derailleur too

 

[shouldbeinbed]

OK, thanks for that - it is just one tooth. Now on the IRC channel I'm on, people are telling me about cross chaining. Looks like that's another thing I need to take account of when cycling!

Don't think it'd be cross chaining bending the tooth (if I've read your meaning right) the cassette teeth generally don't all sit uniformly upright, some are slightly inclined either way to ease the chain smoothly slipping from one cog to the other as you change gear.

 

[Boopop]

Another update!

The man came along, firstly told me that it's a better idea to have a Shimano chain to go with the Shimano drive set. Not sure what to make of that but he did seem to know what he was talking about and told me he had twenty years experience along with the Cytech qualification.

Also said that there's not a problem with the chainrings, as others have said it's just the different teeth for changing gears. The front derailleur isn't working because it's full of mud apparently =/. I've tried cleaning it but it hasn't made any difference - I might be daring and try taking it off and soaking it in some water to loosen it up a bit. He told me that it doesn't look damaged.

So far as the chain is concerned his opinion was not to bother installing a new chain now as it would get wrecked by the winter weather, so instead I should run it into the ground and then get a new chain and cassette around the spring.

He also informed me that the hubs seem worn, so typically I've just started to notice that the rear freewheel has stopped working properly - as in sometimes I'll have to be moving and pedalling for a good second or two before it catches and I actually start powering the bike. I was wondering, is it better value to upgrade the wheels or should I just get the hub replaced? I figure assuming the wheel set comes with the hub preinstalled, I just have to stick the cassette on the new rear wheel along with the tyres and I'm set, rather than getting someone else to take apart the wheel. What do people think?

Thanks for all the help and wading through my long winded updates!

 

[HovR]

so typically I've just started to notice that the rear freewheel has stopped working properly - as in sometimes I'll have to be moving and pedalling for a good second or two before it catches and I actually start powering the bike. I was wondering, is it better value to upgrade the wheels or should I just get the hub replaced? I figure assuming the wheel set comes with the hub preinstalled, I just have to stick the cassette on the new rear wheel along with the tyres and I'm set, rather than getting someone else to take apart the wheel. What do people think?

Jazloc of this parish, who also has a Triban 3, had a similar problem with his stock wheels. After a little while of this I believe his freehub went completely, meaning pedaling no longer transferred any power to the wheel!

The stock rims aren't of any amazing quality, and a rebuild of both wheels with new hubs would likely cost as much, if not more than a new Shimano wheelset. Something like the Shimano R501 or Shimano RS10 wheelset would make a good upgrade for your bike, and I'm reliably informed they can be had cheaper at Ribble Cycles, so you might want to check that out.

 

[Boopop]

Jazloc of this parish, who also has a Triban 3, had a similar problem with his stock wheels. After a little while of this I believe his freehub went completely, meaning pedaling no longer transferred any power to the wheel!

The stock rims aren't of any amazing quality, and a rebuild of both wheels with new hubs would likely cost as much, if not more than a new Shimano wheelset. Something like the Shimano R501 or Shimano RS10 wheelset would make a good upgrade for your bike, and I'm reliably informed they can be had cheaper at Ribble Cycles, so you might want to check that out.

I thought that might be the case. I wasn't aware others had had the same problem!

Looks like it's going to be a cycling Christmas. I'm thinking a RS10 home mechanic bike stand, chain whip, cassette removal tool, and some R501 wheels

Thanks.

 

[Fab Foodie]

I thought that might be the case. I wasn't aware others had had the same problem!
Looks like it's going to be a cycling Christmas. I'm thinking a RS10 home mechanic bike stand, chain whip, cassette removal tool, and some R501 wheels

Thanks.

My lad's Triban hubs were rough as a badgers arse, but all that was required was new cones and bearings to sort the roughness, pretty cheap and only an hour or so's work with a couple of cone spanners.
R501 wheels would be better.
Regarding the Shimano Chain, I'd say utter tosh, get the cheapest KMC.