Tubeless insanity

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T4tomo

Legendary Member
I'm very, very sceptical that the type of extremely rapid puncture that would cause a problem tubed would not cause an identical problem tubeless.

There may be some pros for tubeless on road bikes, but that isn't IMO one of them.

I'm with you on that. I had a rapid deflation on my front tyre going down a steep hill - dropping off the Chiltern ridge where I ran over something metal on the road, cue loud hissing at 30odd mph. I stopped without drama and replace the tube.

the sort of damage that causes a tubed tyre to go from 80psi to zero in an instant is no going to repair itself with stans sealant
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
I’m going to France and Switzerland in the summer to ride and won’t be risking been fudged.
I now run 28mm and 25mm front. Who else has this awesome combo?

Good arrangement if you have enough clearance.

My bike has touring/gravel abilities so I regularly run 40mm all-round, can go to 50mm if go down to 650b wheels.

My new aero wheelset has wide rims, so now run 30mm tyres on 68mm deep rims. These are tubeless too
 

Mr Celine

Discordian
Just to freak out the cyclists ocd ,I run 25mm front and 28mm rear which are different brands !!! As well . Giant gavia front ( which I fitted in lockdown as I knew it would fit ) and pirelli cinturato rear LBS fitted
But dont worry ocdists a matching set of pirelli race are soon to be fitted just need to decide 26 or 28 . I think 26s fit nicer to my rims

My cycling OCD requires me to put the newest tyre on the front. I currently have a 28 on the front and a 25 on the back.

This was due to GP5000 being smaller than the GP4000 I used before, which I only discovered after buying one.
A 28mm GP5000 is still slightly narrower on my rims than 25mm GP4000 were.
 
OP
OP
Milzy

Milzy

Guru
I’ve got the Goldilocks set up , comfort at rear, aero at front.
Infact it’s set up = 60/40 deep front/ rear , plus 28/25 mm. Did a 101.5 mile today and it was amazing. Wish I tried it years back now.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
An idea which might work... Try standing on the edge of the tyre and using your body weight to force it on?

I don't have any really tight tyres but I will try that technique with an averagely tight one on a spare wheel and see how I get on. I'll report back in a few minutes time...

And the answer is...

... it worked surprisingly well when using a stiff-soled cycling shoe with 82 kg pushing down on it as the tyre lever!
I'll return to this because I just tried fitting a new tyre which was so tight that it was ripping my hands up with me trying to use my normal no-tools technique. It looked like I would have to use some serious tyre-levering, with the associated risk of puncturing the tube and then having to immediately remove the b*st*rd tyre!

I remembered my above suggestion of standing on the tyre and thought I would give it a go again with this awkward tyre/rim combo.... To my amazement, the new tyre went on in about 5 seconds! It was so easy that I don't think that I could possibly have damaged the tube, but we will see. I pumped the tyre up hard and will check it in the morning to see how it is then...

Even if they fit, if the clearance is too tight, then gravel picked up by the tyres can get wedged into the gap. I had that on one bike which had a tiny clearance even with 25s.
I had it today with mud. I walked my bike down a muddy footpath and the gap between the fork and the top of the front tyre quickly got jammed full of crud which I later had to poke out with a twig. It put me off trying a 28C on the rear because that would have reduced the clearance there to the minimal clearance that the front 25C has.
 
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