Tubeless Sealant

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I expect the size of hole and it's ability to be repaired is associated with the two relatively different volumes of air one might find in Road vs MTB tyre. The larger the hole, the more rapidly air that will escape. If the air escapes too rapidly, the force and duration with which sealant moves will dictate the size of a viable repair more than the brand of sealant itself.
 

keithmac

Guru
We use Slime in motorcycle tyres, had a display stand at work with a wheel/tyre with slime inside and bradawl and that had in excess of 20 punctures in it and still inflated.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
We use Slime in motorcycle tyres, had a display stand at work with a wheel/tyre with slime inside and bradawl and that had in excess of 20 punctures in it and still inflated.

My tubeless ready rims had Schwalbe tubeless rim tape, which the bike shop added to with a double wrap of Gorilla tape.

Only Slime of the sealants I tried found it's way to a handful of the spoke holes.

This tells you two things.

Trying to seal something with 33 holes in it is not easy.

Slime is good stuff.
 
WRT slime, it might also suggest that it's less viscous, whereas other brands might have firmed up sooner, which might be a sign that they are more effective than slime at creating a seal. Not that my own brand is any better, as I have also noticed some sealant around the spoke nipples.

Did the shop explain why they had added to the existing tape with Gorilla tape?
 

Mark pallister

Senior Member
I like Stans for my road bike tyres; but avoid Finish Line. With the stans stuff I have at the moment I remove the valve core and use a Giant branded syringe which has a long pipe that bypasses the valve en route to the directly inside the tyre.
You can’t do it with stans race it has flakesin it that just block syringe up
 

Mark pallister

Senior Member
My tubeless ready rims had Schwalbe tubeless rim tape, which the bike shop added to with a double wrap of Gorilla tape.

Only Slime of the sealants I tried found it's way to a handful of the spoke holes.

This tells you two things.

Trying to seal something with 33 holes in it is not easy.

Slime is good stuff.
I’ve never had any problems with just rim tape on its own ,may depend on the wheels
 

jiberjaber

Veteran
Location
Essex
If you've got sealant at the spoke nipples I'd be looking for a problem in the tape :smile:

I think I've got over 40,000km of tubeless road experience now, I initially started with Schwalbe (which is just Stan's rebranded) and switched to Caffelatex and I've never looked back :smile:
 

YellowV2

Veteran
Location
Kent
I use Caffelatex on the recommendation of Malcolm @ Cycleclinic and not had any problems.
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
I use gorilla tape, but with nothing underneath. I used use Orange Seal, until I switched to Orange Seal Endurance to give me longer between clean outs.
 
Been using Orange Seal Endurance for a couple of years and with the exception of what I think was a duff bottle (not enough hard particulates for the latex to clump round), it’s been great. Couple of things that make a huge difference but seem to get frequently overlooked, regardless of the sealant brand you’re using:

1. Shake the sealant really vigorously and for a good 30 seconds immediately before filling the tube; as in, shake and then fill, within seconds! Otherwise those hard particles start to separate out really fast and can stay in the filling cup or syringe. Not enough of them the sealant won’t work properly.

2. Don’t skimp. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the amount of sealant per tyre. For off road or mixed surface riding I add 25% as can easily lose that much on a bigger picture before it seals, and then some.

3. You won’t be aware of most of the punctures that seal themselves so make a point of checking the back of your seat tube, chainstay bridge and underside of chain and seat stays for dried sealant. If there’s dried latex where there wasn’t any at the start of your ride, you’ve lost enough to make it worth considering a top up when you get home.

Just what they've found to work over the years.
Usually to raise the rim-bed. Can make getting the rim to seal easier with difficult tyre/rim combos. Conversely, can also make getting the tyre on (but not seated) harder. It’s a complete barsteward to clean off all the gorilla gunge when you redo the rim tape though.
 
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colly

Re member eR
Location
Leeds
I like Stans for my road bike tyres; but avoid Finish Line. With the stans stuff I have at the moment I remove the valve core and use a Giant branded syringe which has a long pipe that bypasses the valve en route to the directly inside the tyre.
Why do you avoid Finish Line? I've recently cleaned all the old Stans gunk out of my tyres.....................and put in Finish Line^_^
 
OP
OP
lane

lane

Veteran
Thanks for all the input. I think I will give Caffelatex a try. It seems to have some good recommendations on this thread and the cycle clinic. It's cheaper than Stans race sealant, I will be able to put in through the valve which will be easier and it should clog up the valves less.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Usually to raise the rim-bed. Can make getting the rim to seal easier with difficult tyre/rim combos. Conversely, can also make getting the tyre on (but not seated) harder. It’s a complete barsteward to clean off all the gorilla gunge when you redo the rim tape though.

The Alex MD40 wheels on the bike are so wide all the tapes sit in the well of the rim, which at least means you can remove and refit the tyre without disturbing the tape.

This pic, which I ripped from the internet, shows a 'full width' tape installation as you describe.

Probably be more air tight than mine, but the tyres are a tight fit so might scuff the edges of tape each time you need to break the bead seal for top ups.

503217
 
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