Tyre pressure....

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I have been struggling with a small mini pump which is hard work and the pressure gauge useless. I invested in a track pump and found the thing to be (pardon the pun) like a breath of fresh air. I inflated with what seemed like a couple of pumps to 100 psi which transforms the bike.

This leads me to believe I must have been woefully under inflated previously - 20 quid well spent and I imagine much less prone to punctures....
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
Mini track pumps are good for out on the road but they tend to.be too long for most saddle or rack bags.
 

Profpointy

Legendary Member
I went many decades without a track pump believing them to be a bit of a gimmick unless you are running a racing team or whatever. My (good quality) frame fitting pump pumped the tyres up pretty hard. Then I bought a cheap track pump on special offer and was instantly converted. After another decade it broke so I ordered a v nice lezayne pump the same day.
Maybe not absolutely essential, but only a tad below lights and puncture kit, and way above padded shorts and what not.
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
I see people are recommending poor pumps again, so let me set the record straight: the only well-engineered lever-lock heads are the SKS and Park Tool Pro style ones where you push the lever TOWARDS the wheel to lock them on, whereas most pumps (including Topeak) expect you to pull the lever AWAY from the wheel which is excellent for increasing wear and tear on the head parts and selling replacement parts but not good engineering.

Lezyne mostly avoid this by using screw-on heads which is slow and tedious but basically fine as long as you're sure your valve cores are done up tight!

And "Road Drive Mini" - is nearly a foot long mini now? :rolleyes: 100psi pumps can be 7" now with telescoping.
 
Lezyne pumps can get good pressure (100psi +) with a little effort, and are nice and light/compact (and in my opinion as an engineer well designed)

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-road-drive-mini-abs-pump/
I think that was the pump I had. Great for just over a year (quick and easy to pressure) then it failed inexplicably, someone said its because the number of plastic components so I've replaced it with an aluminium version. Strangely enough since I've done so I've not had a p'ture but touch wood the alu lezyne is good if I ever do :okay:
 

Randy Butternubs

Über Member
I see people are recommending poor pumps again, so let me set the record straight: the only well-engineered lever-lock heads are the SKS and Park Tool Pro style ones where you push the lever TOWARDS the wheel to lock them on, whereas most pumps (including Topeak) expect you to pull the lever AWAY from the wheel which is excellent for increasing wear and tear on the head parts and selling replacement parts but not good engineering.

All lever operated chucks use a cam to compress the rubber bung don't they? Why would it make a difference whether the lever goes towards or away from the chuck?
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
All lever operated chucks use a cam to compress the rubber bung don't they? Why would it make a difference whether the lever goes towards or away from the chuck?
If the lever is pulled away from the rim to lock, you're pulling the head away from the valve and using your other hand to counteract that, often unable to put your stabilising hand on the back of the head because it's all lever: there's more risk of pulling the head slightly off and failing to form a seal, damaging the bung a little, than if all applied force is pressing the head firmly onto the valve. There is no good reason for a pump lever cam to be the reverse of a usual bike QR one, is there? It indicates that the pump designer hasn't thought it through IMO, or maybe that the maker would like to sell replacement bungs more often.

(edited to replace some confusing terms with more explicit ones)
 
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Venod

Eh up
Location
Yorkshire
If the lever is pulled away from the wheel to lock, you're pulling the head away from the wheel

If the head locks on by pulling away from the wheel and it worries you (can't see how it makes a difference) lean over and put it on from the other side then it locks towards the wheel.
 
If the head locks on by pulling away from the wheel and it worries you (can't see how it makes a difference) lean over and put it on from the other side then it locks towards the wheel.
I think what was meant is the direction of movement with respect to the rim. I just checked on youtube and the Park Pro head is attached by applying a force towards the rim.

Having said all that, whether the chain of events leading to potential failure as proposed would actually happen is, in my opinion, moot. Can't beat facts and data.
 
[QUOTE 5224721, member: 45"]Thanks for clarifying your opinion. I've never had an issue with valves damaged from using any pump, not even the ones you feel are poor. Has anyone?[/QUOTE]
It was pump head damage that was suggested. And no.
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
[QUOTE 5224721, member: 45"]Thanks for clarifying your opinion. I've never had an issue with valves damaged from using any pump, not even the ones you feel are poor. Has anyone?[/QUOTE]


Nope, never.
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
It was pump head damage that was suggested. And no.
More that the pull-to-lock design more easily causes premature tearing of the clamping bung than full-on damage.

I've seen people bend the top pin of presta valves by removing a pump cackhandedly, twisting it off instead of pulling it directly away from the rim, but I suspect they could do that with pretty much any design.
 
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