Tyre Pump question

[Mattk50]

Hi,

So lesson learned after getting a puncture miles from home :-( . So my small saddle bag now contains a spare inner tube and spanners. What else do you guys carry around? What do you guys do for a 'non large' bike pump?

Matt

 

[Markymark]

Hi,

So lesson learned after getting a puncture miles from home :-( . So my small saddle bag now contains a spare inner tube and spanners. What else do you guys carry around? What do you guys do for a 'non large' bike pump?

Matt

CO2 cartridge and small pump for emergencies.

 

[mjr]

8" telescoping pump with gauge rated to 120psi. Tyre levers and instant patches: Park Tool do a good pack of both.

 

[Mattk50]

CO2 cartridge and small pump for emergencies.

I may be wrong, I asked about the CO2 pumps or the foam ones but the man in the shop said that my tyre valve was too small for those. Maybe he just meant the foam because you wouldn't be able to get the stuff through such a small hole?

 

[Markymark]

I may be wrong, I asked about the CO2 pumps or the foam ones but the man in the shop said that my tyre valve was too small for those. Maybe he just meant the foam because you wouldn't be able to get the stuff through such a small hole?

No idea about foam but I have CO2 canisters on all my bikes and they all have presta valves. You just need an adaptor and off you go. It inflates them to a decent pressure in seconds. I carry a mini pump too in case of 2nd puncture but never needed it in tens of thousands of miles cycling.

 

[mjr]

I may be wrong, I asked about the CO2 pumps or the foam ones but the man in the shop said that my tyre valve was too small for those. Maybe he just meant the foam because you wouldn't be able to get the stuff through such a small hole?

Do you have a better shop you can try?

Both Zefal and Aldi foam repair cans come with adaptors for all common valves. They get messy easy and a proper repair is always better but sometimes it's cold and dark and you're alone in an exposed windswept location when a quick get-me-home fix is welcome.

 

[mjr]

My rather beaten up Zefal foam tin (lacking its adaptor but it's in my bag)

 

[Mattk50]

Thanks. I have a more immediate problem. I have fixed the front puncture, put the wheel back in and locked it in but it's not spinning because of close brake pads, arrgghh I haven't touched the brakes so it should spin freely again right?

 

[Markymark]

Thanks. I have a more immediate problem. I have fixed the front puncture, put the wheel back in and locked it in but it's not spinning because of close brake pads, arrgghh I haven't touched the brakes so it should spin freely again right?

Wheel might not be aligned. Squeeze the brakes a few times. On the wheel where you locked it back up you can unscrew/screw each side to adjust it's position

 

[Mattk50]

Wheel might not be aligned. Squeeze the brakes a few times. On the wheel where you locked it back up you can unscrew/screw each side to adjust it's position

How do I know how much to tighten it either side?

 

[Markymark]

How do I know how much to tighten it either side?

Until it spins freely. You loosen one side and tighten the other. The net result should be it sound freely but it is tighten properly. The quick release lever, assuming there is one, should be hard to close. That means it’s secure.

Spin the wheel and you may see it wobble from side to side in which case it may also need truing and that’s a job for a bike shop.

 

[Mattk50]

You're a star, it's spinning freely. So I kept loosening one side whilst tightening the side with the lock and hey presto. Same with back wheel right?

 

[mjr]

The quick release lever, assuming there is one, should be hard to close. That means it’s secure.

One rule of thumb is that the lever should be just difficult enough to tighten that the lever edge or pattern slightly imprints a typical hand and not so difficult that it hurts or bruises and reopening should be possible with typical hands only and not require tools.

 

[mjr]

You're a star, it's spinning freely. So I kept loosening one side whilst tightening the side with the lock and hey presto. Same with back wheel right?

Yes, but any change will affect the gear change indexing - which can be reset with the little barrel adjuster where the gear cable enters the rear mechanism, but extreme changes may require adjusting the screws - really look at a manual or video for your mechanism to be sure.

That's a can of worms you don't need to open, so I'd try to develop a habit of only loosening and tightening one side in ordinary use - either the lever or the opposite nut, not both. Then the wheel will go back in pretty much the same position. I usually do the nut as that works for removing skewers too.

 

[Mattk50]

Thanks all. I just checked the back wheel (had to remove both to fit in car to get me back after puncture) and it's running free thankfully although it was a bugger to put back in with the derailer in the way. Just rode it up and down the road and it didn't collapse on me :-) . I'm learning bike mechanics at the age of 49!