Tyre types and size?

[ericmark]

The electric folding mountain bike I have I assume has tyres with no special puncture resistance, and it seems sensible to change the tyres to some with some puncture resistance, the tyres are rather big, which likely translates to heavy, and with high rolling resistance, and the worst track I ride on is likely the canal tow path, tyre size ISO 50 - 559 (26 x 1.95) Circumference in mm 2050 at moment, the motor setting are 06 = 026.0 which I suspect sets the speed readout correctly, so would like to fit smaller tyres which I hope will increase my road speed without using the motor.

Also looking at changing the front sprocket, as around 12 MPH at moment is about my limit as simply can't pedal much faster, can just about pedal at 16 MPH, above that I simply can't turn pedals fast enough.

The rear sprocket goes onto the motor, so not sure if I can change that, but front one seems a standard sprocket, my intention it to take it to bike shop to get tyres fitted, but I weigh 22 stone plus, and bike is 24 kg, so question is should I fit smaller tyres, or would doing that put too much strain on the wheel.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I’d look up your tyre online before assuming it has no puncture protection

 

[Ajax Bay]

No - don't fit tyres any narrower. The ride will be worse and it'll make no difference to your speed. That width of tyre will support the combined bike and rider weight of 164kg adequately.

 

[andrew_s]

Fitting a smaller tyre is the wrong thing to do if you want to actually go faster, rather than merely see a faster speed on the speed display.

Your current wheel/tyre goes round once for every two metres you travel (approx). If you fitted a wheel half the size, it would go round twice, thereby causing a speedo to show double the speed. If your motor currently cuts out at 15 mph (as it should), with the small wheel, it would cut out at 7.5 mph, being under the impression that it was doing 15.

Pedalling quicker is something that comes with practice. It would be better to practice rather than change the front sprocket, which would make hills more difficult.

 

[ericmark]

It was not the diameter of the wheel I want to reduce, it is the thickness of the tyre. When I had a non electric and my wife had electric I could catch up on slight down hill stretches and would lag behind on up hill stretches and could keep pace on the flat, on the flat weight of bike should not matter, up hill extra weight should slow me down and down hill speed me up, however since moving to an electric bike I can't keep up with her unless I switch on the motor.

So either the motor is causing a drag, or the tyres being thick have a higher rolling resistance or my position on the bike is not allowing me to push as hard, or the gearing is not allowing me to push as hard, or I am less fit.

I changed the seat stem for a longer one which helped a lot, but the gearing will not allow me to push much over 12 MPH, and at 16 MPH wife's bike stops giving her assistance, so the time when I can excel without the motor is over the 16 MPH, slight down hill stretches, and the balloon tyres are also not helping.

I want the motor for when I have had enough, but want to be able to cycle without it until that point.

 

[biggs682]

A different brand tyre in same size could have lower resistance.
What tyres are fitted?

 

[Ming the Merciless]

but the gearing will not allow me to push much over 12 MPH,

Get a bigger chain ring up front to allow you to push a bigger gear.

 

[All uphill]

Have you played with tire pressures to find the optimum?

I agree with @biggs682 above that another tyre of the same width may make a significant difference without sacrificing comfort or weight-bearing ability.

 

[ericmark]

I will get a better picture latter.

 

[ericmark]

Get a bigger chain ring up front to allow you to push a bigger gear.

This is what I want to do.

Have you played with tire pressures to find the optimum?

I agree with @biggs682 above that another tyre of the same width may make a significant difference without sacrificing comfort or weight-bearing ability.

I have gone to maximum pressure written on tyre, the comment about other tyre same width does ring a bell, I remember years ago getting a tyre which when fully inflated had a road tyre profile on the road, but with a lower pressure allowed the off road grip. I think however if I want a puncture resistance tyre the options are reduced.

 

[bikingdad90]

What type of surfaces do you ride over?
A slick tyre in the same width would have better rolling resistance on a road than a knobbly tyre but if your riding over rough canal/gravel paths then a knobbly tyre at a lower pressure would actually be faster as it has better grip because of how it deforms.

 

[ericmark]

In the main roads with tarmac surface, but also canal tow paths, and old railway tracks made into cycle and walking routes, worse routes are likely the canal tow paths, but normally go with my wife, so my tyres are twice as thick as hers, so twice as thick as required, as routes need to be suitable for her bike.

 

[CXRAndy]

The practical tyre issue is, you weigh 22 stone. Going with a narrower tyre, it will need a much higher pressure to ensure the load doesn't crush the tyre.

look at similar tyre sizes but with different tread, or slick centres to allow fast rolling on the road but offer grip whilst cornering. What make and model tyre is on the bike currently, we can suggest others which might offer a little less drag whilst maintaining comfort.

I have just gone down from 2.8" tyres to 2.25" mainly because I like the tyre, but it comes tubeless and was ridiculously cheap to buy at the time.

 

[Mike_P]

have gone to maximum pressure written on tyre

Probably not wise. Bike tyre pressure app is saying 65psi in the front and 71psi in the rear.