Upgrading groupset

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PhilDawson8270

PhilDawson8270

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It will be the RS11 its the same wheel slightly different hubs same with the RS20/21 RS30/31 the 1 stands for 11sp compatibility, though some might still badged RS10's like the R500/501 (though that is only 10sp) The hubs are labeled 501 the rims have 500 stickers.
http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-rs10-clincher-wheelset/
RS010 Wiggle spec says 11 speed compatible.

http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-rs11-alloy-clincher-wheelset/

That is the RS11, I'm unsure what the difference is, as Wiggle clearly state the RS010 is compatible with 11 speed, maybe a good idea for me to contact them to make sure it's not an error before I order.

I believe the new Tiagra have the same ergonomics as the 105 so that might be a possibility

From what I've read the new Tiagra rear mech isn't fantastic and requires constant fiddling to keep it running correct.
 
Location
Pontefract
http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-rs10-clincher-wheelset/
RS010 Wiggle spec says 11 speed compatible.

http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-rs11-alloy-clincher-wheelset/

That is the RS11, I'm unsure what the difference is, as Wiggle clearly state the RS010 is compatible with 11 speed, maybe a good idea for me to contact them to make sure it's not an error before I order.

From what I've read the new Tiagra rear mech isn't fantastic and requires constant fiddling to keep it running correct.
Just use either a RD4600 or a RD5701 or a RD5800, I am pretty sure the new 105 GS (Medium cage) will work on a 10sp, though do stand to be corrected if I am wrong, I ran my RD5701 on a 9sp before I upgraded the shifters ect.. last July.
The picture gives no indication, they arn't RS10's they must be an upgrade to the R500/501 as they seem to have the same J-spokes opposed to the R10'11's straight pull spokes, and have the same spoke count as the R500/1 at 20/24 the RS10'11's were 16/20, if so I have found the R501's I have pretty good, however I haven't done much mileage on them yet at less than a 1,000 miles in just over 2 1/2 months.
To be honest there is very little difference in weight ( I weighed them) and the slightly higher spoke count has to be better on our roads.
 
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PhilDawson8270

PhilDawson8270

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if so I have found the R501's I have pretty good, however I haven't done much mileage on them yet at less than a 1,000 miles in just over 2 1/2 months.

More googling suggests RS010 is an update to the R501. So I think that must explain it :biggrin:

So, you recommend your 501 then? :smile:
 
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More googling suggests RS010 is an update to the R501. So I think that must explain it :biggrin:

So, you recommend your 501 then? :smile:
From the distance so far, but its no real recommendation I will be able to tell you better after this coming winter, as the fractures seem to appear in the spring, as I say it could just be my riding or my maintenance (wheels are not a strong point of mine, beyond hubs)
 
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Tojo

Über Member
Thanks for the comment on the wheels
Rs010 apparently supports 11 speed now, not sure if it's been updated since?

Any other recommendations for affordable reliable wheels?

The RS010's take an 11 cassette, I have had them for winter. Other wheels everyone always recommends are Campag Zonda's, but my mate just bought some after trying mine and the cheapest he could find was £250, Wiggle have got Campag Khamsin's for £99.95 I've now went to the G3 Khamsin's for winter now there just a nicer spoke pattern and only about a fiver more expensive than the normal ones, not bad wheels for the price if you don't want to stretch to Zonda's......:thumbsup:
 
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PhilDawson8270

PhilDawson8270

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So,

I have the RS010 wheelset on the way, 105 groupset with short cage, and 11-28 casette. Compact chain rings.

I have some Lizard Skin bar tape on the way, too, and a load of cycle specific tools to get it all changed over.

I think I am more excited than waiting for a bike to arrive :biggrin:
 
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PhilDawson8270

PhilDawson8270

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Everything has arrived other than tape and cycle tools, which are at my local sorting off.

It was a nice surprise to find that the shifters comes with a complete set of Shimano cables too.
 

Tojo

Über Member
Everything has arrived other than tape and cycle tools, which are at my local sorting off.

It was a nice surprise to find that the shifters comes with a complete set of Shimano cables too.


Did you remember to get new gear outer cable and brake inner and outer.....?
 
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PhilDawson8270

PhilDawson8270

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My bike now has a complete 105 groupset fitted to it :biggrin:

Apart from the front brake, the drop on the 105 caliper isn't long enough :sad: So I am running the 105 pads in the tektro caliper. But the rest is 105, I need to have another go at wrapping the bars, which seemed to be the most complicated bit.

Gears shift smoothly on the stand, but I will be taking it out for a ride to test it tonight.

After reading the thread of the rear mech going into the spokes, I spent a long, long time, checking my limit screw settings, but still can't help to be a little paranoid about them! Especially with how little clearance there is with 11 speed!
 

Spoked Wheels

Legendary Member
Location
Bournemouth
My bike now has a complete 105 groupset fitted to it :biggrin:

Apart from the front brake, the drop on the 105 caliper isn't long enough :sad: So I am running the 105 pads in the tektro caliper. But the rest is 105, I need to have another go at wrapping the bars, which seemed to be the most complicated bit.

Gears shift smoothly on the stand, but I will be taking it out for a ride to test it tonight.

After reading the thread of the rear mech going into the spokes, I spent a long, long time, checking my limit screw settings, but still can't help to be a little paranoid about them! Especially with how little clearance there is with 11 speed!

If were to place 4 fingers behind the mech and with your thumb push the arm that moves the chain so that the chain moves to the top of the cassette and stopped by the limit screw then slowly turn the wheel.... if the chain touches the spokes then you need to fix that but if not then you should be alright.
 
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PhilDawson8270

PhilDawson8270

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If were to place 4 fingers behind the mech and with your thumb push the arm that moves the chain so that the chain moves to the top of the cassette and stopped by the limit screw then slowly turn the wheel.... if the chain touches the spokes then you need to fix that but if not then you should be alright.

Thanks I will check this. I've adjusted plenty of rear mechs before, and never gave it a thought. But then you see how a simple oversight can have some serious consequences.

Currently, I had set it so that, there was chain noise and rattle of it trying to drop down to the next gear, then backing the screw out slowly while pedalling until the noise and vibration stopped. Which means it SHOULD be against the limit screw already. But, I will try your method of checking.
 

Spoked Wheels

Legendary Member
Location
Bournemouth
Currently, I had set it so that, there was chain noise and rattle of it trying to drop down to the next gear, then backing the screw out slowly while pedalling until the noise and vibration stopped. Which means it SHOULD be against the limit screw already. But, I will try your method of checking.

That's how I do it too but I like to check the way I describe before and I have to say that I have never had a problem.
 
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