Upgrading wheels without changing the gearset on a 7 speed bike

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
you can transfer them straight to a new bike too if you upgrade in the future
Except any new bike will come with its own set of (hopefully decent/in line with the quality of the bike) wheels. If the bike is worth £150 (say) - and that's what we're talking about here (depends on age and condition) - how much do you think one might reasonably spend on 'upgrading' the wheelset? Half that? Will that get the OP the improved performance/handling he/she seeks?
Tyres - great upgrade. Brake blocks - likewise.
New wheels - not unless the bike is worth £300+, and maybe not even then. One extra kilogramme costs the rider 0.4 watts on the flat and about the same again up a 1:20.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Be very careful about upgrading your wheels. You won't be able to transfer you 7 speed freewheel to a cassette based freehub (8 speed or higher) as the freewheel screws on instead.

You need a 7 speed freewheel based hub, and unfortunately it will be difficult to get a decent set of wheels as they are usually limited to the budget end of the market. It is likely that any you will be able to get are of similar quality to the ones you have now.

A local bike shop may be willing to build you a set of wheels, but this is likely to cost more than off the shelf wheels.

I'd suggest getting a decent set of tyres, perhaps some new new bar tape, and enjoy the bike as it is.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Be very careful about upgrading your wheels. You won't be able to transfer you 7 speed freewheel to a cassette based freehub (8 speed or higher) as the freewheel screws on instead. You need a 7 speed freewheel based hub,
Agree. Correct (but detail in error). Incorrect. Plenty of 7 speed cassettes available: a new rear wheel does not need to have a freewheel hub.
Your concluding recommendation accords with the consensus of this thread: try new tyres first.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Agree. Correct (but detail in error). Incorrect. Plenty of 7 speed cassettes available: a new rear wheel does not need to have a freewheel hub.
Your concluding recommendation accords with the consensus of this thread: try new tyres first.
The error was on purpose :becool: I'm aware of the availability of 7 speed cassettes, but they require a 7 speed hub to pair with. These are, for all intents and purposes, unavailable - so given the OP has already said that their bike has a 7 speed freewheel - I was trying to keep things simple as any new 7 speed wheels will almost certainly be freewheel based.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
If the OP feels the need to 'upgrade' the wheels, the most future proof approach is to buy a wheelset of the desired quality with an 8-9-10 frehub and a 7sp cassette, and then add a 4.5 mm spacer before installing said 7sp cassette". The OP can then take this wheelset with them when they sell the Carrera Zelos, recycling or selling the 7sp cassette. Providing they don't jump to 11sp drivetrain, these wheels will be (Shimano/SRAM) compatible.
Wheels are a great upgrade and you can transfer them straight to a new bike too if you upgrade in the future. Keep the old set to put back on if you ever sell it
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
I'm looking to upgrade the wheels on my carrera zelos bike
Earlier this evening I had a spare half hour in between child taxi duties and a Halfords close by. They had a Carrera Zelos on display. The tyres were 'Kenda' 23-622 (front) and a Kenda Koncept on the rear. The front rim looked OK but the rear was a 'no brand' rim which looked heavy (freewheel hub).
If these wheels/tyres are like the OP's, better tyres first and then maybe a better rear wheel - see advice on (freewheel v freehub) hubs above.
I estimate that 25-622 tyres would fit with no clearance problems but 28s would risk there being clearance (height rather than width) issues. I my experience, GP 4 Seasons measure small (ie less than specification) on this sort of rim (15-622) at 90psi.
 
OP
OP
A

Aynesie

New Member
The tyres were 'Kenda' 23-622 (front) and a Kenda Koncept on the rear. The front rim looked OK but the rear was a 'no brand' rim which looked heavy (freewheel hub).

Yep, these are the specs, except mine is the red 2015 model which has Kenda 23-622 tyres on both the front and rear. Looking at getting a set of continental tyres, I'll go with 25mm as I've heard that's a noticeable upgrade from 23mm.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Yep, these are the specs, except mine is the red 2015 model which has Kenda 23-622 tyres on both the front and rear. Looking at getting a set of continental tyres, I'll go with 25mm as I've heard that's a noticeable upgrade from 23mm.

If they'll fit, go 28mm, I noticed a bigger change going to 28mm than I did to 25, just in terms of road buzz, particularly in cold weather.
 
OP
OP
A

Aynesie

New Member
Just wanted to update everyone on what I did, and why, following everyone's fantastic advice.

With it being winter, I do a lot of my training on an indoor turbo trainer. I've got a sportive coming up at the start of march, and then an olympic distance triathlon in May, so for me, the most essential thing was having a set of tyres and tubes that are fast and more puncture proof than what I currently have. (As discussed, the quality of my current kit is pretty poor relative to modern road bike standards).

I looked around and Continental tyres seemed like the best shout. It was then a case of choosing between the indestructible Gatorskin tyre, or the fast GP 4000s II tyre. I was leaning more towards gatorskins in terms of reliability, but considering I'm going to be using the tyres to race, the GP's seemed like the better all-round option. My decision was made for me when I was able to buy a PAIR of 25mm GP's for £60 through Evans cycles, whereas these tyres usually retail at £60 each. I also picked up a couple of suitable Bontrager inner tubes for another £11. And that was that, so I thought.

But having saved myself £60, I looked around to see what I could get in terms of wheels for that money. The obvious answer is not a lot, but I then stumbled upon a pair of Rodi Airline 5's from Ribble, which had been reduced more than 50% from £130 to £60. It seemed a bit too good to be true, but the reviews were plentiful and generally very positive, with the only real criticism from a couple of buyer's was that the rim tape was weak and had caused punctures.

I weighed up whether getting these wheels would be worth it, and in the end, the pros outweighed the cons. While they were a cheap set and I wouldn't get much more in terms of performance out of the wheels compared to what I currently have, they were lighter and had a lower spoke count than my current set, and looked considerably nicer due to shallow rims and black spokes. The biggest advantage though, would be to have a set of training wheels and race wheels, or rather an indoor and outdoor set, both pre-set up with tubes and tyres. I wouldn't have to faff about changing the rear tyre every time I hooked my bike up to the trainer, and that in itself, to me, is well worth £60.

Of course, that wasn't the only cost, as I then needed to invest in a new 7 speed cassette, due to my indoor wheels being freewheel and my new outdoor wheels being a proper cassette freehub. I also needed to buy the right spacer so that the wheel could accommodate the narrower 7 speed, and I need to buy a shimano lockring tool along with a chain whip, so that I could fit and remove the cassette if need be, respectively.

All in all, with everything tallied, I've managed to get a fully working set of wheels, setup included, for the cost of £170.

Will this bike retain that sort of value if sold on with these wheels? Probably not, but then again, I won't need to sell them. If I do upgrade to a better bike in a couple of years time, when I'm no longer a student and have more expendable income, then I can sell my current bike with the wheels it was purchased with. If the new bike I buy then has better wheels than my current setup, then my new wheels could then become my indoor set, the only cost being a different rear cassette to match the number of gears my new bike has. Regardless, having a second set of fully functional wheels seems like the way to go.

I understand that for most people on here, money isn't as tight as it is for me, but I feel like I wanted to share all this to demonstrate that it doesn't have to cost a fortune to get into road cycling. I bought my Carrera Zelos for £210 new, and over the last couple of years I've upgraded the saddle and seatpost to make it more comfy, as well as replacing the handlebar tape from white to black in order to make it look smarter and less grubby.

For less than £500, I've been able to buy a complete bike, along with a spare set of wheels that can be used on future bikes, AND I've been able to customise it how I've wanted to.

Again, thank you to everyone on here for your advice, I personally feel like I've got a lot for my money and done well to find various deals on cheap equipment, but I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter!
 

DRM

Guru
Location
West Yorks
I've got a 2014 Carerra Zelos, to see how I got on with road cycling, it got relegated to winter riding duties but has now been superseded by a Verenti Technique ( Wiggles in house brand ) with 9 speed Sora, I also added some blingy bits, full mud guards & better tyres, 25mm Michelin Lithion 2's which were on offer for £25 a pair including tubes, and fitted some Cinelli gel/cork bartape to the Carerra, & a better saddle, however none of this was wasted money, as I swapped all the bits onto the Verenti except for the mudguards which are too narrow for 28mm tyres, the things that I felt improved the comfort of the Carerra was the tyres, bartape & saddle, I put it back to standard & was going to sell it, but having acquired a turbo trainer it's now giving stirling service on that, I worked out that it wasn't worth upgrading the Carerra with a 9 or 10 speed groupset & a carbon fork due to the cost.
The thing is if you get get a nice better specced bike you can fit mudguards on your Carerra & use it through winter, but I wouldnt really spend too much on upgrades for it, especially as real bargains can be had around the time the manufacturers release the next seasons range.
 
OP
OP
A

Aynesie

New Member
I agree DRM, I wouldn't go into the more expensive upgrades of forks and different groupsets on this bike, I'd be looking at upgrading to a new bike for those sorts of changes.
 
Top Bottom