WD40 for the chain

[Ajax Bay]

Do you think it’s worth cleaning the chain with WD40 before applying lube after washing or should I just dry the chain with a cloth and lube directly?

Since you ask.
I have 3 types of 'action' (yawn) in the life of each chain, after fitting and before its final journey (either at about 2400km if I'm trying get one cassette to last several chains: from experience this is likely a bit over 0.5% elongation, or let the chain/cassette combo run on till it skates ~5000+km).
1) Wipe, oil, wipe
2) WD40, wipe, oil, wipe, oil, leave, wipe
3) (About 1000-1200km) Remove chain, shake in sealed beaker 2/3 full of paraffin (other smellier hydrocarbons are available), repeat, wash in hot water, dry on radiator, refit and oil, wipe, oil, leave, wipe.

 

[nmfeb70]

I'm late coming to this one but here is my personal method:
Put some GT85 on a rag, wrap it around the chain and clean in sections of 6 to 8 inches. This will clean any grit and dirt from the chain.

Then add a few drops of TF2 all weather lubricant directly to the chain while rotating it backwards. Then wrap a different rag around the chain and rotate it backwards again. Turn the pedals clockwise and shift up and down the gears to leave traces of lubricant on the rear sprockets. I spend ten minutes doing this after every ride. The key is "little and often."

Finally, I agree 100% with @mickle - WD40 is a bike killer, it's a water displacer which will dry out anything it is applied to. That's why it's good for starting damp car engines.

 

[Randomnerd]

I love chain management threads. Nothing to add; just wanted to say “quality thread “ people. Yet again, you’ve done us proud. As you were.

 

[rockyroller]

lol, thought about this thread this weekend after looking at my car seat. had a wet ride Saturday & had so much debris splash up on my back, that the day after, I saw a coating of silt? on my car's chair back. no doubt all the same tiny specs got on & into every crevice of the bike & chain. before bringing it into the house, found the quick link & removed the chain. (I haven't done a thorough cleaning of this chain in at least a year. used a bucket of hot dish-soapy water & a cpl new small brushes on the bike (just general areas, not spending too much time w/ detail). then rinsed with clear water. about the same as hosing it off I suppose, maybe only slightly better?

regardless, gave the chain it's own treatment. I have a new routine, using mineral spirits, a straw brush, pipe cleaners, paper towels, hanging device, drying & spray lubing w/ a "dry" lube. definitely not a daily routine. still need to check, clean & lube the derailleurs & rollers before I put the chain back on, probably tonight

when I was bike commuting, including winter, upon getting home, I would generally just fill a water bottle or two w/ hot water, rinse the bike w/ that, wipe w paper towels, & let dry further overnight in the basement & re-lube occasionally

 

[Sniper68]

WD40 has no business being anywhere near a bicycle unless it's removing sticker glue from paint work.

+1

 

[Andy_R]

For those of you relatively new to the forum (less than 10 years ), search for the "Mickle Method"

 

[rockyroller]

the "Mickle Method"

to save anyone some time
https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/chain-cleaning.968076/

excerpt:

But, there is one method, and cyclists of a certain forum, here in the UK, call it the Mickle Method, after the forum name of the guy who passed it on. It's quick, dead easy and it works.

After a ride, simply take a rag, ideally soaked in paraffin (kerosene if you are LeftPondian) or your solvent of choice, wrap it in your hand, around a few chain links, and continually pull the chain through the rag. You'll need to change the rag frequently, but after a short while the rag will stop picking up the black muck, and the chain will look a bit cleaner. Clearly, the more often you do this, the less time it takes as the chain will be cleaner overall.

Then apply your favourite chain lube to the chain and, with a clean rag, wrap it around the chain again and pull the chain through a few times. This will take off the excess lube. It's doing no good anywhere other than inside the rollers. On the outside of the links it's only picking up muck.

If you are really keen, you wipe down the newly-oiled chain using the method above until no more black stuff comes off. At that point, the chain should have lube inside the rollers, and little or none outside.

The more you do this the quicker it is to do. I used to ride recumbent bikes (still do occasionally) and their chains are 3 times the length of a 'normal' bike, and the chains usually run through plastic tubes, so keeping everything clean is essential otherwise it all clogs up.

The Mickle Method. Try it. It works. Quick, simple, effective.

 

[Ajax Bay]

The @mickle Method - credit where credit's due. What goes around, comes around, eh, especially if well oiled.

 

[FrankCrank]

This is my preferred method:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

We all have to wear masks nowadays, so it's a no-brainer really.

 

[rockyroller]

WD40 has no business being anywhere near a bicycle unless it's removing sticker glue from paint work.

any advice if one of my rear derailleur rollers is sluggish?

 

[rockyroller]

put my chain back on my road bike last night. while doing so, the quick link, master link separated & fell on my basement floor. also the 2 little bearings from the surrounding links. I was able to find them & put them altogether tho. everything seems in order & working, but I feel a bit dumb for letting that happen. the other chains I've removed to clean, didn't lose those bearings even when the connecting link was off

 

[T4tomo]

any advice if one of my rear derailleur rollers is sluggish?

clean it by any/all methods possible and when done, pop a drop of lube on it. A gunky chain tends to leave a bit of crap on the jockey wheels.

you must have a different connecting link to the quicklinks i use, so cant help with that.

 

[Sniper68]

any advice if one of my rear derailleur rollers is sluggish?

WD40 is mainly a water-dispersant but it also removes any lube/grease from chain rollers etc.Relubing after using WD40 rarely gets fully into the rollers unless the chain is soaked in a lube bath.
Most Jockey-wheel bearings are sealed so once they go stiff or sluggish I'd replace.

 

[MontyVeda]

That’s what I thought about wd40 neutralising any protectant on the chain already which is why I wondered at the moment could I just use wd40 to keep the chain clean if I apply it every 20-30miles, would this be better than proper lube being applied every couple of hundred miles

You've spelt 'minutes' wrong

 

[rogerzilla]

WD40 is fine if:

1. You clean the chain and apply it very frequently (weekly)
2. Your chains are more at risk from rust than wear
3. You don't expect vast chain life (I used to fit Sedisport 7 speed chains for £5 a pop)

This applies to many MTBers who need to clean their bike after every ride.