Wet braking distance

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FishFright

More wheels than sense
a broken rim is likely to slow you down ;)

there are disc brakes and disc brakes though. No comparison to a set of decent hydrolics and the crap they put on supermarket BSOs. I was adjusting those for a friends kid and they have less stopping power than the 1980's side pull calipers on my old Pug. Purely an ornamental.gimic for the "disc brakes must be good" brigade.

Would you say they were better or worse than the average rim brake fitted to BSO's ? Where I used to live I helped out the local commuters keep their BSO's working and the brakes were without exception appalling . All rim brakes and i have no experience with DBSO's*

*Disc Brake Shaped Objects
 
OP
OP
straas

straas

Matt
Location
Manchester
I've just clocked - I recently cleaned the bike (and hence rims) with triplewax car shampoo, I didn't even consider it at the time but could this be contributing?

Braking is fine in the dry, I'll give locking the wheels when at a standstill a go.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
I've just clocked - I recently cleaned the bike (and hence rims) with triplewax car shampoo, I didn't even consider it at the time but could this be contributing?

Braking is fine in the dry, I'll give locking the wheels when at a standstill a go.
That'd do it, I use the Simonize one but I then clean the rims with washing up liquid on a green scotchbrite pad before hosing the bike off.
 
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Levo-Lon

Guru
Im thinking the OP doesn't need a cycling proficiency test just an idea on what to look for to improve dodgy brakes..

Id give the brakes and rims a clean with brake cleaner and see if that gets the contaminated pads working well again.
Or it may be new pads needed if there shot
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Yeah, waxed rims aren't the greatest for stopping :laugh: It can be wiped off with degreaser on a cloth then rinsed, too (DAMHIK :blush: )
I found out the :eek: way too, luckily I'd done a bit of 'fettling' so it was only on a quick trip round the block in the rain but I thought the first 'brake' would get rid of the wax.......................................Nooooo, neither did the 2nd or the 3rd. Mind you I also then took the brake blocks off, flatted them on 60 grit and refitted them. :angel:
 

NorthernDave

Never used Über Member
Thoroughly clean your rims , check the brakes don't need tweeking.

Then I find a firm brake, release and then brake again helps. The initial brake cleans the wheel rims of any accumulated water, giving the pads chance to grip properly on the second application.

That's on my road bike with Swissstop BXP pads. On my other bikes with discs, braking remains awesome, wet or dry...;)
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
My new road bike has hydraulic disc brakes and the ability to stop is massively better.
I will admit that my el cheapo tektro cable discs on my winter commuter are no match to decent discs and in the dry they are no better than calipers but in the wet i know they are going to be a dang sight better and consistent.
 
I will admit that my el cheapo tektro cable discs on my winter commuter are no match to decent discs and in the dry they are no better than calipers but in the wet i know they are going to be a dang sight better and consistent.
Tbf my new bike wasn't cheap:blush:
 

midlife

Guru
You've never had it so good, I was brought up on these.....

PeugeotSportB4H_56_RimSerratedEdge.jpg
 

simon.r

Person
Location
Nottingham
I understand the 'ride to the conditions' comments, but if you're riding in traffic it's virtually impossible to always avoid the need for 'urgent' if not quite emergency stops / slowing down.

I've almost got to the point where I will only ride with hydraulic discs in the wet - they really are that much better IME.
 
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