What are good & bad brands?

[Berger and Chips]

Warren's bike is weird.
Unless I had seen it I would not have believed that you could buy a bike with a combination of steel seat post, steel rear triangle, fluted non A-head handlebar stem, steel handlebars, tourney/SIS level parts, plastic coated crank but with hydraulic disc brakes!

IMHO the only dirt cheap full suspension bike that is supposed to be anything other than next to useless as a real off road mtb is this:-

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/rockrider-6-3-34963775/

Everything about this bike is much better - except, bizarrely, the brakes which are only mechanical disc brakes - hence inferior.

 

[Warren]

@ Berger and Chips

The site got a few things wrong in their write up and pics. Firstly the pic shows normal disc's but they are pulse ones. then the rear triangle is actually aluminuim as shown on the picture. Also the crank is not plastic coated. Also the front suspension is adjustable unlike what is said on the site. Unfortunately im new to all this so i dont know what "fluted non A-head handlebar stem" is and also dont know what is wrong with tourney/SIS level parts as i can change gears realy quickly and easily. Finaly you have to realise i am only a beginner and I dont have the money that most people have to spend on bikes and like i said my original max was £200 but the only bikes for that were worse than the one I got. Anyways im really happy with it and when I get more experience and more money I will get a better bike.

 

[Berger and Chips]

Looks quite a bit better than in the website photo got a picture of the whole thing?

The stem in the original photo is what is called a "Quill stem" these days almost all bikes over £180 have the A-head stem.
A-head stems are a big chunky stem that clamps around the outside of the fork steerer.
Quill stems are thin stems that are pushed down inside the frameset and then tightened by turning a screw thread that makes the stem jam against the inside of the fork steerer.

I personally have not had a bike with a quill stem since my 96 Marin Bobcat Trail - and I had that converted to an A-head.

 

[Warren]

@ Berger and Chips

Well by the way you describe a quill stem then unfortunately it is one as I had to assemble it, and it also slightly heavy. What is an A-head stem and do you recomend i get one? (What is the benifit of one.)
Im sure the crank set is metal as it feels like it and i scratched a bit of paint off when putting the bike down before putting on the pedals.
Ive attached another pic here of the whole thing, any thoughts? Like i said i know its not that great but when i have more money and experience i will get a better one (any idea on prices for a good one?).

 

[Berger and Chips]

That bike looks a bit better than the original photo.
It will be fine for road riding and gentle off roading such as tow paths and gentle trails.
Personally I would not trust it for safety on downhills and I would expect it to break if you try to use it in anger for hardcore cross country on very technical trails.
I suggest you don't upgrade it - if you really get into it, save up for a bike that better suits your needs (tell us your requirements and ask for some suggestions on here) or keep some money to one side to repair components as they break, instead of trying to gild the lilly so to speak.
You would not put a Ferrari engine into a Vauxhall Corsa, so in a similar vein its not worth upgrading this bike from either a financial or practical standpoint.
Lets say you spent £200 on new forks and an A-head stem - the frame could still snap if you then tried to compete on difficult terrain against people who had bought £500 bikes such as Specialized or GT in the first place...
Upgrading this bike would be what is called "sub-optimisation", whatever you upgrade the bike will only be as good as the worst part that remains of the original machine.
As I say though it will be fine on reasonably undemanding terrain.
I am not saying you should not use it in anger on demanding terrain out of snobbery, its because you stand to break the bike and write it off or worse- get hurt due to bicycle/component failure.

 

[Warren]

@ Berger and Chips

K well thanks, i suppose for now road riding and gentle off roading is all ill be doing and ill take care not to put to much pressure on it as ive seen bad vids on the internet about frames braking. Do you know how it will cope in thetford forest as i intend to go there in a few weeks when i regain my fitness (Im probably the most unfit person on the site, and im not even fat I only way 65Kg! I read posts on people doing 100's of miles and i do 12k's and my legs are burning) and when i get more comfortable cycling.

Thanks for the advice too.

 

[Berger and Chips]

I don't really know the area, my advice would generally be this. If there are a lot of gnarly, undulating bits with tree stumps and rocks to ride over take it easy.
Should be ok if its just towpath type trails, a bit of hardpack, etc.
If the suspension is obviously getting a good workout I would not cane it on that bike.
I would suggest you get some wet lube from Halfords, or bike shop, (about £5 or £6) and keep the chain well lubed if going off road in winter especially otherwise you will end up spending your money towards your next bike replacing the chain and gears...
Maybe the bike could take a punishment - I don't really know it that well, but a couple of details such as the way the handlebars are connected (stem type) and the way the seat post is connected suggest to me that the bike is one notch below what I would call a true go-anywhere mtb...
NOTE: as i alluded to before if you were to upgrade these parts then its likely the frame would crack, rear shock or forks would fail instead during heavy usage...

 

[Warren]

@ Burger and Chips

Thanks for the help, well I think i get the idea now and ill keep in mind ("If the suspension is obviously getting a good workout I would not cane it on that bike") i think thats a good way for looking out if im overdoing it. Last question, do you have any idea on a good "go-anywhere mtb..." and the amount i would need for it. It looks like the usage of my bike would be going on road and dirt paths most of the time to get fit and then weekends I would go on mtb trails.

Thanks once agian.

PS why do you need to put on so much lube on the chian, what happens if it doesnt get enough, also when you buy it new do you have to oil the chain first. Cuase ive been using it as is, never even tought of that. (Forgive me if this is a realy stupid question which it probably is but as i say im still learning all these things.)

 

[Berger and Chips]

As long as its not getting too wet or too muddy it won't need too much oil.
You want just enough lube to stop it squeeking or starting to rust.
As a general rule a bike good enough to take proper off road punishment in XC riding as opposed to jumping or downhilling would be £300 and up from a reputable make in hardtails and £500 and up from a reputable make in full suspension.
I am talking original RRP so if you can get a full susser that was £500 for £300 that would count.
Generally speaking I would suggest dont buy any bike without either Googling for a review from a proper bike resource such as BikeRadar or asking a few people on here first...
For good value look at the Carrera, Decathlon or Boardman ranges - for guaranteed quality Marin, Specialized, Trek and GT.
Also Scott,Kona and Cannondale (except these are often not cheap).

Ideally you should be looking at upwards of £400 for a hardtail and £600 for a full suspension machine.

 

[Warren]

@ Berger and Chips

K thanks ill save up around £800 and get one of those makes, i dont think ill go for hard tail as even though i have cheap susspension i realy like full suspension and i feel it helps make rides more comfortable even if they may be slightly heavier (ill just cycle harder get bigger muscles and get used to it).
Ill probably get a new one in a year or two, also by then ill know what bike i need and how it will be used.

Thanks for the help

 

[Berger and Chips]

At that sort of price bracket and full suspension I would suggest Specialized - I am sure other people would have other suggestions.
If you bide your time you should be able to get the current years model for £800 down from £1200 when the next years model bikes come out. A Specialized or equivalent quality bike that was originally £1200 will be of a very high standard indeed.
By then you should know if you will be leaning more towards a faster XC-style bike or a stronger play/All Mountain bike...

 

[Warren]

@ Burger and Chips

Sorry to keep on asking questions but it seems you know alot more about bikes than me. What do you think of this one:
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=39200&eid=2

Its from the all mounatin bike section of specialized and supposed to be built for all type of mtb riding.
Ive seen it for around £1400.
Do you think in maybe a year or so it will come down to around £800?

 

[Berger and Chips]

If you wait till a bike becomes last years model you can save typically about 1/3 off the price.
Here is a similar model with a £200 discount

http://www.mikevaughancycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b2s1p907&rs=gb

I can't guarantee that you will ever be able to get hold of that specific one for as little as £800. £950 to £1000 is more likely the sort of discount price against a £1400 bike.
When it becomes last years model check in Evans here are two current deals on similar models:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/enduro-fsr-comp-2008-mountain-bike-ec001431

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/enduro-fsr-expert-2008-mountain-bike-ec001430


One way to search for the best price easily: Put the name of the bike you are interested into Google, click on "Google Search", click the "Shopping" link at the top of the page, change the "Sort By" drop down combo-box to show "Price: low to high".

 

[e-rider]

Bikes are getting more expensive by the week - possibly due to the weak £ or other economic reasons in the far east and USA.

I've cycled at thetford forest a lot and even my bike (which was fairly expensive at £1500) needs repairs after most rides there. I even stopped going for a while as it was costing a fortune in new parts.

At 65kg you'll be better off than me so your bike should survive - it really depends which route you ride (there are 4) and how fast/aggressive you ride them. If you take it easy your bike will be fine - if you go mental on the black route , expect to be buying new parts after your first trip!

 

[Warren]

@ tundragumski

Thanks for the advice about thetford forest. Well from what you say my bike should be fine as im not an agressive cyclist i just like off road more than on road, but either way i like to cycle.
Also I dont suppose you know of any cycle routes near brundall, preferably a bit of off road. Also bear in mind my fitness needs alot of working on im afraid