What do you tighten your nuts with? and why that tool?

[Davidc]

Only have one wheel with nuts now - dynamo front one on the mtb. Carry one of those multi spanners with 3 ends at 120 degrees to each other for that.

 

[mickle]

right direction? care to expand?

Sure, pointy end of the fixed jaw - the one which is part of the main body - should always point in the direction of turning.

 

[Zoiders]

I call bullshirt.

That means the nut is trying to cam the lower face of the adjustable back down it's adjustment worm drive as you tighten the nut.

The issue is quaility not what way round you use it.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Hozan ratchet.

Ok Track nuts then.....

If the fairy calls you need something to get the wheel off with.....

 

[Moodyman]

Not sure what you call it, but I carry one of these for the Bolt on my hub gears. In case of punctures.

 

[Zoiders]

Open ended spanner.

I-beam type.

 

[mickle]

I call bullshirt.

That means the nut is trying to cam the lower face of the adjustable back down it's adjustment worm drive as you tighten the nut.

The issue is quaility not what way round you use it.

Eh. It's about where on the jaw the loading from the nut's faces occurs. Obviously, on the adjustable jaw, this should be as close to the body as poss to reduce the load on the worm. Using it the wrong way massively increases the load on the jaw, the edge of the nut and the worm.

Don't make me draw a diagram ffs.

 

[Davidc]

I bought a new small adjustable last year and it had a diagram on an instruction leaflet showing which way round to use it! (Which is as Mickle says, but it went in the recycling 'cos I already knew that).

 

[Domeo]

I use 4mm allen keys, as I've got a Phil Wood that has bolts.

 

[fossyant]

Adjustable spanner at home or work. 'Thick' Cone spanner on the road (not my campag ones - no way)..

 

[Rob3rt]

Ok Track nuts then.....

If the fairy calls you need something to get the wheel off with.....

You dont NEED to get the wheel off, I have never removed my rear wheel to sort a puncture. This being said, I'm a glue and patch man where possible and havent had the need to switch out inners yet (I also havent had many punctures )


Also Mickle is on the money, with an adjustable it does matter which way round you use it. You can "get away" with using it both ways if the quality is high, but nonetheless if you wish to prolong the life of your tools, using it the right way round is the way to go.

 

[Zoiders]

Eh. It's about where on the jaw the loading from the nut's faces occurs. Obviously, on the adjustable jaw, this should be as close to the body as poss to reduce the load on the worm. Using it the wrong way massively increases the load on the jaw, the edge of the nut and the worm.

Don't make me draw a diagram ffs.

The load works on both sides, there is no fancy equasion.

Draw a diagram - have a look and tell me where the pivot point forms and what the nut levers against as you use it.

 

[yello]

Surly Jethro Tule

...a thing of beauty. And it works. The smooth, flat end enabling you to get a decent (and more importantly painless) amount of umph for undoing pesky wheel nuts.

 

[Rhythm Thief]

The load works on both sides, there is no fancy equasion.

Draw a diagram - have a look and tell me where the pivot point forms and what the nut levers against as you use it.

Mickle is quite right. It's easier to see it than it is to explain it, and it'd probably take me longer to work out how to draw a diagram on the computer than it would to drive to wherever you live and explain it all in person, but there's definitely a right way and a wrong way to use an adjustable spanner.

 

[Zoiders]

Is there buggery a right or wrong way, it's a tool designed to be flipped over as needed so it will fit into tight spaces.

A good quailty adjustable it doesn't matter which way round you use it, and the point I made about the loading is correct.