What is the real speed difference between high to low end road bikes?

The best bang for your buck road bike is?

  • The cheapest entry level road bike is satisfactory unless you are a professional race cyclist

    Votes: 11 14.5%
  • Claris road bikes probably deliver the best performance per £1

    Votes: 3 3.9%
  • Above Claris is the sweetspot, Tiagra, Sora etc

    Votes: 5 6.6%
  • Shimano 105 the groupset of the people - delivers both great performance and low running costs

    Votes: 45 59.2%
  • High end Shimano Dura Ace/Ultegra with a state of the art CF frame, fork and wheels, no compromises

    Votes: 12 15.8%

  • Total voters
    76
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fatjel

Veteran
Location
West Wales
freiston I tend to go out for the same ten mile ish ride most mornings so seems a reasonable comparison . The spa has mudguards rack lights and is a couple of kilos heavier because of that. The spa is my bad weather bike so subsequently I rarely ride the roubaix. When I do it feels significantly easier to ride and more comfy.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
Wow! It's a big difference then!

If you put in 160 watts on the flat you’ll get to about 17.2mph. If you put in 190 watts you’ll get to about 18.4 mph. That gives a 1.2mph extra for those 30 watts.
 
Good question, it's more precise, faster and a generally nicer experience. It's probably easier to try it out and see how you get on, rather than me try to sell it to you.

I suspect the people on here advocating electric gears have them, but also have or have had bikes with mechanical gears, so have experience of both and are able to a lived experience of both sides. But it's possible the people questioning the benefit of electrical gears over mechanical and whether or not it is worth it etc. very possibly don't have the experience of them.

Personally I prefer electric gears but everyone is different. Try them out and see how you get on.
I have done about 30k miles on my di2 equipped bike, I have some experience of it ;)
My winter bike has mechanical gears and I do not notice a drop in performance from di2.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
7% but that’s by the by. I wouldn’t call 1 mph significant. Plus we have to ask what it causing the difference. It’s certainly not the gearing as per the OPs claim.
It's depressing isn't it. 30 watts represents about a quarter of my usual range of efforts (between gentle and hard, but not including "really pushing it" or "idling/freewheeling"). And it yields a measly 1mph increment.

It's a significant increment in effort for an insignificant return.
 

Alex321

Veteran
Location
South Wales
It's depressing isn't it. 30 watts represents about a quarter of my usual range of efforts (between gentle and hard, but not including "really pushing it" or "idling/freewheeling"). And it yields a measly 1mph increment.

It's a significant increment in effort for an insignificant return.
You really do need to look at it as a % increase rather than thinking of it as "just" 1mph.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
It's depressing isn't it. 30 watts represents about a quarter of my usual range of efforts (between gentle and hard, but not including "really pushing it" or "idling/freewheeling"). And it yields a measly 1mph increment.

It's a significant increment in effort for an insignificant return.

It is . I’ve noted when I’ve gone for it. You don’t really gain that much speed. Plus your fuel per mile is far far worse. Far better to keep the effort manageable. If the ride is of any length you’ll likely get there in a similar time having had to stop less to eat. Plus feel much better.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
It is . I’ve noted when I’ve gone for it. You don’t really gain that much speed. Plus your fuel per mile is far far worse. Far better to keep the effort manageable. If the ride is of any length you’ll likely get there in a similar time having had to stop less to eat. Plus feel much better.
The reverse happens too I guess. If I was doing a 200k Audax on a lighter, racier, faster (possibly more expensive) bike the "free" speed that I've got for my money (let's say an extra 30 watts worth) isn't worth much in raw speed. That extra 1 and a bit mph would get me round - depending on how fast I was in the first place - about 30-60 mins quicker*. All other things being equal, like comfort and practicality, punctures etc.

Being a lazy rider what would probably happen is that I'd notice I was going a bit quicker on my new fancy bike and subconsciously back off the effort level to my usual speed so I'd get round in the same time.:laugh:

* This could be the difference between "food left" and "no food left" at the finish, so could be significant in terms of free flapjacks.
 
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fatjel

Veteran
Location
West Wales
On a 2 or 300k audax the difference between the carbon verses steel bike is comfort related.
The pain kicks in later on the more expensive bike. Which was the reasoning behind the build

On the mountain roads around here every kilo saved is very noticeable too

The power meter was for sure the least useful item I have ever bought for a bike.
In my defence it was lockdown and I was very bored
 

CharleyFarley

Senior Member
Location
Japan
I'd guess that the most accurate way of comparing low end and high end bikes for speed would be on a dynamometer, if such a thing is made for bikes. (They're made for motorcycles.) A dynamometer, used indoors, would not be subject to weather conditions such as wind, or to gradients and road surfaces.
 

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
I'd guess that the most accurate way of comparing low end and high end bikes for speed would be on a dynamometer, if such a thing is made for bikes. (They're made for motorcycles.) A dynamometer, used indoors, would not be subject to weather conditions such as wind, or to gradients and road surfaces.
Isn't a smart turbo a bit like a dyno with added road load simulation?
 
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