Wheel truing

[Domus]

I have acquired a simple truing stand and already own a DTI so I wish to use it. I know it's not necessary but the engineer in me wants to.
I have seen used a tee piece with a roller fitted to a DTI and would like one. Anyone know what it's proper name is and where I could find one?

Ta

 

[Blue Hills]

forgettinng for a mo the proper name of this mysterious piece (I don't know), what's a DTI?

Am making baby steps into wheel fettling myself as a prelude to building.

 

[the snail]

Park tools sell one I think. Completely bonkers though. Within 1mm in plenty good enough.

 

[Domus]

DTI = Dial Test Indicator

View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Indicator-Gauge-0-10mm-Magnetic-40111963/dp/B01FEN0Y1M/ref=pd_sbs_60_1/261-9155107-6203234?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FEN0Y1M&pd_rd_r=f89b64b5-bc16-4a4a-8b4e-114b4e1e4b01&pd_rd_w=KgWJS&pd_rd_wg=Xn5F5&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=GG0A4FDPRKPYC41GFDFK&psc=1&refRID=GG0A4FDPRKPYC41GFDFK

 

[Domus]

Sorry, will check out Park
Ta👍

 

[Velochris]

View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VJKRZWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r1OhFbC8D247M


Check the thread is correct.

From the stuff I have read 0.2mm lateral and 0.4mm radial is about the basic level a decent wheel builder would work to.

 

[Domus]

Good man. 👍

 

[FrankCrank]

Complete overkill, but use one if you like. Try getting a fitted tyre running at that level of accuracy

 

[PpPete]

And is the truing stand that rigid in the first place?
I've been building wheels on a home-made wooden truing stand (plans from Roger Musson's Wheelpro book) for about 10 years now. It's not all rigid, but the indictators are free-standing anyway. Bit of black plastic against a white background and you can see the gaps much easier than numbers on a dial.

 

[PpPete]

From the stuff I have read 0.2mm lateral and 0.4mm radial is about the basic level a decent wheel builder would work to.

I could probably get close to that level by eye with a new build on a good quality rim, if I could be arsed, but it is far more important that spoke tensions are even, otherwise it's just going to go out of true in short order.

 

[rogerzilla]

There comes a point when you can't get it any more true because of spoke twist, which must be eliminated. This involves turning the nipple until you feel the spoke "jump" (this can be half a turn with DT Revolutions!) and then turning it back slightly. You can't reliably do tiny 1/16th of a turn adjustments unless you leave the spokes in a state of wind-up, which is pointless as the wheel will go out of true when ridden.

Even spoke tension is a bit of a holy grail but, in practice, isn't as important as having all spokes adequately tight, removing twist and stress-relieving. You'll rarely get even tension around the rim joint anyway, as there will be some manufacturing hop that needs to be pulled out with two or four quite tight spokes.

 

[Velochris]

Only passing on what I've read.

I can get that close with my eyes, but maybe not everyone can with their eyes.

Tightness of the tolerances are down to the builder and how much they enjoy building. Quite right that even and adequate tension is key. However, I only quoted the figures as a guide for somebody contemplating measuring run out.

Agree 0.2/0.4 may not be necessary, but I enjoy building so generally get to that point naturally now.

 

[Blue Hills]

There comes a point when you can't get it any more true because of spoke twist, which must be eliminated. This involves turning the nipple until you feel the spoke "jump" (this can be half a turn with DT Revolutions!) and then turning it back slightly.

To clarify (am only at the beginning of my wheel tinkering adventures ) - I had the idea that the "jump"/sudden move was the spoke deciding to untwist/loosen as you were trying to tighten it?

 

[rogerzilla]

To clarify (am only at the beginning of my wheel tinkering adventures ) - I had the idea that the "jump"/sudden move was the spoke deciding to untwist/loosen as you were trying to tighten it?

Yes, it's the spoke moving back in the nipple threads Until you feel the "jump", the spoke is merely turning with the nipple and twist can be considerable with butted spokes. Turn the spoke key fractionally back and forth after that, and you can feel the mid-point where there is no twist.

You can put as much oil on the threads as you like before building the wheel but you always have to deal with some twist as it reaches final tension. Plain gauge spokes don't twist much but have too many other disadvantages.

 

[Domus]

I agree about overkill but I have a DTI already, it's been in the drawer since my last engine build, K series for a friends Caterham, so why not use it?