Wheel Upgrade

[Enw.nigel]

Been interested in the recent threads by Endoman and Uphillstruggler about wheel upgrades and it has got me restless. Like Endoman I have a Focus Cayo 105 (since May) but have recently had to send the rear wheel back because of bearing problems. This started me thinking of upgrades hence the interest in the other threads.
My questions might seem naive to you in the know but I'm sure this is the place for the correct advice.
1. When you upgrade do you also replace your cassette or do you swap from wheel to wheel.
2. Whether you replace or swap what tools do you need?
When I buy the upgraded wheels, I was going to replace the cassette as well. As I have a 10 speed 105 I assume I just buy similar. I would then use the original wheels as winter wheels which seems to be the advice by CCer's.
3. Are there different quality shimano 105 cassettes that I should be aware of?

Finally the upgrade I've been looking at are the Fulcrum Racing 5's. Any comments on these?

 

[Smurfy]

1. If you're not replacing the chain at the same time there would seem little benefit in replacing the cassette.
2. Chain whip, lockring remover, and a spanner to fit the lockring remover (unless you buy an all in one lockring remover)
3. No idea!

 

[Smurfy]

2. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal

 

[HLaB]

1) if your existing cassette/chain is fine transfer it to the new wheel unless you want new bling ;-) If your chain has a quicklink its easier.
2) You need a lockring tool, a chain whip and a large spanner (I forget the size I use an adjustable one) and the larger the better :-)
3) If its branded 105 the quality should all be the same but personally the last change I made was for a SRAM cassette as it had a better ratio for me (11-26), that's the more important difference in cassettes afaic.
Never tried Fulcrum's but they are always suggested as quality off the shelf wheels. I was considering them for Christmas but opted for planet X Model B's as they were slightly lighter but importantly cheaper.

 

[VamP]

The main advantage of getting another cassette would be to get a different ratio spread, so as to start building up your quiver. Same as with wheels. Having more means more options depending on what you are planning to do...

The Fulcrum 5 or Mavic Aksium are often the first goto wheelset for people looking to upgrade. Also consider having a set of Open Pro rims hand built on a medium priced hub set. Will give you similar weight, with better quality, and more importantly often come with truing for life policy.

The Planet X B's are lighter and cheaper, but also softer, so depending on how heavy you are, may not be the optimal choice...

 

[PpPete]

Any 10 speed Shimano or SRAM cassette will have the right spacing. A new cassette gives you the opportunity for a different spread of gears... but check what the capacity of your rear mech is first. Also, even if the mech can handle it, if you go much bigger you'll need a longer chain.

Wheelwise I'd always go handbuilt, but then I'm more cart-horse than racing-snake.

 

[endoman]

I'm likely to get some hand builts for after the Winter, and then put my originals as Winter wheels for next year / wheel for the turbo I will be getting. Might get another cassette to make changing quicker, and maybe add another cog for climbing.

 

[Enw.nigel]

1. If you're not replacing the chain at the same time there would seem little benefit in replacing the cassette.
2. Chain whip, lockring remover, and a spanner to fit the lockring remover (unless you buy an all in one lockring remover)
3. No idea!

Thanks YeliowTim that information and links were very useful. I hadn't thought about replacing the chain when adding a new cassette. The bike has only covered about 1600/1700 miles so I wasn't looking at replacing the chain so it looks like i will transfer the original cassette.
An interesting point as well by others about a different spread of gears if you change the cassette.
Endoman and PpPete you both recommend handbuilts. Do these work out a lot more expensive and if not who do you recommend?
Thanks to you all for taking the time to reply.

 

[Smurfy]

I hadn't thought about replacing the chain when adding a new cassette.

If you maintain the chain correctly (cleaning, oiling and replacing at appropriate intervals) the cassette should last a few chain replacements. If you don't maintain the chain correctly, the cassette will be worn prematurely and may skip when you replace the chain.

To check if your chain needs replacing you can measure it. According to Sheldon Brown, 12 1/16 or below between pins is ok (pull it taut before measuring). Over 12 1/16 and you should buy a new chain. If it's 12 1/8 or above then you have probably left it so late that a new chain will skip on the cassette (i.e. you have trashed the cassette by not maintaining the chain correctly). All measurements are in inches, and you need to measure fairly accurately from one pin centre to another pin centre over a length of 12 complete links.

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear

Unless you have a specific need to have different ratios and gear spacings for different rides then I would stick with just one cassette, which will be worn away by just one chain. It's must simpler that way!

 

[PpPete]

Most handbuilts are "traditional" in style....32 or 36 spoke, so they don't become completely unrideable in the very unlikely event of spoke breakage. Having that many spokes makes it possible to have a very stiff wheel - all your power goes into making the bike faster, none into flexing the wheel. A good builder, or even an amateur like me using a good "recipe" will ensure that not only is the wheel true, but also the spoke tensions are high enough and very even.... which minimizes the chance of going out of true, or of spoke breakage. You can choose exactly which rim, which hubs, which spokes, decide on the spoking pattern ... all to suit exactly your riding.

Lower spoke numbers (more often seen on factory wheels) need a stronger (usually heavier) rim.... and although total weight is important, rim weight is much more so.

The Open Pro recommended above is one of the lightest rims around whilst still being "double-eyeletted"...the double-eyelets spread the tension load of the spokes around more of the rim profile. I've built with them - they are nice, very fast, but the brake track wears a little quickly compared with some. If you can afford them DT-Swiss RR465 rims, or if weight very important to you the single eyeletted RR415. Ambrosio make a couple of nice lightweight rims too, the Excellight, and the slightly more robust looking Excellence, which I've just started using. Exal & Rigida make some rims at half the price of the above ... and quality/weight is not far behind.

 

[Enw.nigel]

Thanks for the replies YellowTim and PpPete.
I have looked after my chain keeping it clean and lubed but will check to see if it has worn over the weekend. My rear wheel is with Wiggle at the moment but I'm sure I'll find a way of keeping the chain taut whilst measuring.
The information on wheels and wheel building was very informative. Certainly given me a better understanding of the relationship between wheel rims, spokes and wheel stiffness.
Thanks to you both.

 

[VamP]

You will find any good LBS will build you wheels to your spec, even from components that you have provided yourself.

But if you want something a little special, these guys are highly respected:

http://www.wheelsmith.co.uk/wheelprices.htm

and

http://www.stradawheels.co.uk/

Apologies, I do not seem able to make the link insertion function work


As to moving the cassette from wheelset to wheelset, and keeping matched to same chain, I guess that depends on how frequently you change your wheelsets around. I might change wheelsets several times a week, and having a cassette on each wheelset makes that process a lot easier.

In races, you want a spare wheelset that's good to go, so having a dedicated cassette fitted to each wheelset is kind of a given.

As far as chain wear is concerned, get a chain measuring tool. They're cheap, and a lot easier to use than trying to measure 12 chain links using a measuring tape

As long as you keep replacing chains before they're worn out, your cassette wear should not get out of hand, even if you fail to keep chains and cassettes paired up.

 

[jay clock]

I have two pairs of these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=easton+ea50 wheel (i have an older version) and they are rock solid, lightish and look good. £288 from Wiggle. By rock solid the combined pairs of wheels have done many thousands of km (5k) and still true. And I am a lard bucket....

 

[Smurfy]

As far as chain wear is concerned, get a chain measuring tool. They're cheap, and a lot easier to use than trying to measure 12 chain links using a measuring tape

I use a steel rule, which I'm sure is a lot easier than using a tape measure.

Which measurement tool do you use. Do you have the Park Tools one?

http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-wear-indicator-CC-3-2

 

[the_mikey]

Just another +1 for fulcrums, I use fulcrum racing 5's and 7's and they've been utterly reliable, bombproof even.