Which sportive for commute..

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Otto Sump

mapmyride handle ottolesump
Hello group, I’m currently riding a Specialized crosstrail sport and looking at getting a road bike, I’ve been advised from a bike guru at work that I should be looking for a “ Sportive” with a compact chainset, this is all Chinese to me. My current bike has 27 gears shimano acera, rear 32/28/24/21/19/17/15/13/11 & front 48/35/26. This is probably not the correct way to describe the gears but like I say, I don’t know that much. I’ve used the hybrid for 3 seasons now and I’ve been everywhere on it, most of the passes, Hardknott, Honister, Ryno’s etc, but I find I’m using it now more for commuting which is around a 30 mile round trip, 99.9% of the ride is on tarmac, there are a couple of small hills, and one quite steep where I drop into my second ring, I find that on the flat when I’m getting over 25mph I’ve ran out of gears and my legs are going like crazy. Initially I got the bike as advised by my doctor for a knee problem and didn’t really mind that I was being overtaken all the time, but how times change. I’ve progressed in fitness now and its starting to nark me a little when some upstart overtakes me and scares the living S!”£ out of me. I’ve got about £650 to spend, and am purchasing from "http://www.keswickbikes.co.uk/products.asp?l1=BIKE&l2=ROAD" and would appreciate if one of the more knowledgeable members could take a quick squint at the page and offer advice, I’ve also included a link to my Strava account which details my daily commute. I’m 46 years old, approx 12 stone, 5’11”
http://www.strava.com/activities/154823732

Thanks group, keep up the good work, Otto
 

vickster

Squire
Cannondale synapse or specialized secteur should suit you well, need to try bikes out and see which feels best for you. There is one of each at your budget. Basic componentry though. Does the retailer have any older models in stock at reduced prices, which would get you better bang for buck

If you have a a knee problem, make sure it fits you well, is set up properly and that you spin up hills, not try to grind out of the saddle :smile:
 

Kestevan

Last of the Summer Winos
Location
Holmfirth.
A "Sportive" road bike is one with a more relaxed position than the traditional arse-up-head-down "racer" position. This is usually achieved by having a frame with a slightly longer head-tube (the tube at the front the forks fit into). They often feature a shorter top-tube, and a slightly longer wheelbase too to make the handling less "twitchy". Bikes in this mould include the Specialized Roubaix/Secteur, Cannondale Synapse and the Planet X RT-58.

A compact chain set is a double ring set with usually 50/32 tooth rings This is often. coupled with relatively wide range cassette (11-30 on newer bikes) giving a range almost equivalent to a traditional triple chainset... The standard double usually runs 52/38 rings giving a higher gearing, but being less suitable for steep climbs.
 

Cyclist33

Guest
Location
Warrington
Hello group, I’m currently riding a Specialized crosstrail sport and looking at getting a road bike, I’ve been advised from a bike guru at work that I should be looking for a “ Sportive” with a compact chainset, this is all Chinese to me. My current bike has 27 gears shimano acera, rear 32/28/24/21/19/17/15/13/11 & front 48/35/26. This is probably not the correct way to describe the gears but like I say, I don’t know that much. I’ve used the hybrid for 3 seasons now and I’ve been everywhere on it, most of the passes, Hardknott, Honister, Ryno’s etc, but I find I’m using it now more for commuting which is around a 30 mile round trip, 99.9% of the ride is on tarmac, there are a couple of small hills, and one quite steep where I drop into my second ring, I find that on the flat when I’m getting over 25mph I’ve ran out of gears and my legs are going like crazy. Initially I got the bike as advised by my doctor for a knee problem and didn’t really mind that I was being overtaken all the time, but how times change. I’ve progressed in fitness now and its starting to nark me a little when some upstart overtakes me and scares the living S!”£ out of me. I’ve got about £650 to spend, and am purchasing from "http://www.keswickbikes.co.uk/products.asp?l1=BIKE&l2=ROAD" and would appreciate if one of the more knowledgeable members could take a quick squint at the page and offer advice, I’ve also included a link to my Strava account which details my daily commute. I’m 46 years old, approx 12 stone, 5’11”
http://www.strava.com/activities/154823732

Thanks group, keep up the good work, Otto

A top gear of 48/11 is not substantially different than one of 50/12 or 50/11. If you're spinning out at 25mph on the flats in the highest possible gear, I can't see how getting a road bike would help, as you would reach that point more quickly and then be spinning out again.
 

Cyclist33

Guest
Location
Warrington
A "Sportive" road bike is one with a more relaxed position than the traditional arse-up-head-down "racer" position. This is usually achieved by having a frame with a slightly longer head-tube (the tube at the front the forks fit into). They often feature a shorter top-tube, and a slightly longer wheelbase too to make the handling less "twitchy". Bikes in this mould include the Specialized Roubaix/Secteur, Cannondale Synapse and the Planet X RT-58.

A compact chain set is a double ring set with usually 50/32 tooth rings This is often. coupled with relatively wide range cassette (11-30 on newer bikes) giving a range almost equivalent to a traditional triple chainset... The standard double usually runs 52/38 rings giving a higher gearing, but being less suitable for steep climbs.

Compacts are usually 50/34 teeth, and standard double (I think) 53/39?
 
A compact chain set is a double ring set with usually 50/32 tooth rings This is often. coupled with relatively wide range cassette (11-30 on newer bikes) giving a range almost equivalent to a traditional triple chainset... The standard double usually runs 52/38 rings giving a higher gearing, but being less suitable for steep climbs.

Sorry to be a pedant, the typical compact is 50/34 I run that on one bike, the less common compact (sometimes called a semi compact) which I run on another is 52/38 and the standard traditional double is usually 53/39 or bigger.
 

Cyclist33

Guest
Location
Warrington
Incidentally I thought that it was possible to cycle much faster than 25mph on flat roads in top gear on a compact road bike, if you're really going for it. I mean I can't in a million years, but it should be physically possible...
 

helston90

Eat, sleep, ride, repeat.
Location
Cornwall
Not sure of the models that have been mentioned but you could keep your eye out for a road bike with a triple on- something like a 52/ 42/ 30 would give you plenty of heave ho on the flats/ down hills (almost never spin out when coupled with an 11 tooth rear) and still give you plenty on the hills to take it easy on your knees- I run 11-28 on the rear and the 30 x 28 is so easy to pedal it's unreal.
 

jowwy

Not here offten enough to argue
Wow, great answers, thanks to all. The guru at work said that if I got the right compact then I wouldn't "spin out" as you put it, I'll also check if they have any older stock and update on my return..
I cant see you spinning out on a compact on the flat in a 50/11 gear
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
If you're only dropping to the middle ring then go standard i.e 52 (53)- 40(39) rather than a compact and probably 12-25(or28) at the rear. That way you should be able to use all the gearing and have a tighter ratio change to maintain cadence easily.
 
OP
OP
Otto Sump

Otto Sump

mapmyride handle ottolesump
Hi group, went to the cycle shop to choose the bike, opted for a Cannondale Synapse, with a compact 34/30 ( whatever that means) but that was the advice I was given, however I have had bad advice from them before, he also told me that I needed a 54" frame, whereas two other retailers said I needed a 56"
Don't know what to do now?
 

vickster

Squire
You need to look at the geometries, not all makes are the same. How tall are you, inside leg? You need to sit on the bikes, preferably ride them, at least on a turbo trainer, and see how they feel
 
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